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Official Sony KDL-XXZ5100 Owner's Thread - Page 68

post #2011 of 2287
Well I went for it, but I'm not seeing Pandora.. not much else either who knows. Not any problems yet.
post #2012 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by tightclaws View Post

Well I went for it, but I'm not seeing Pandora.. not much else either who knows. Not any problems yet.

I had to select 'Refresh Internet Content' under the Network section of the XMB to get Pandora to show up.
post #2013 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugnax555 View Post

I had to select 'Refresh Internet Content' under the Network section of the XMB to get Pandora to show up.

Thank you very much
post #2014 of 2287
OMG guys, I need some help. My refurbished 46" unit came in yesterday from Sony to replace my bad W4100 series (sad to see that go) After a quick hook up, I didn't have much time to spend with it, as I had to rush out the door to get to work since I already missed the morning waiting for delivery. I just assessed it as everything looked ok cosmetically, and the picture seemed fine and to be working.

When I got home, anxious to play with it, I noticed it was a lot brighter/whiter than my other unit. This was just on standard picture mode, I didn't toggle w/ the settings. Waited until dark, played Alan Wake which is a very dark atmospheric game, and the little "Brightness" option was really bright to where you can see the words in every box. Even all the way down to zero it was showing. My W series had no problem with this and seemed very dark.

So I start to mess w/ the settings, read some peoples settings, lowering the backlight seemed to help, but honestly it looked good at 0 or 1. Is that unreasonable to be so low?? I don't know, I'm ordering that DVE disc right now, hope I can do that.

My other issue is, I was watching some stuff off my cable box in HD and the screen began to 'flicker' it would flash black, then come right back on. It would do it in almost 3 quick concessions on DVR material, cable HD and SD channels..I thought it could be MotionFlow (I keep at Standard) but even disabled, it did that. TV was on for almost 6 hours by this point, the flashing only acted up for 20 mins, then stopped for an hour. Did not continue this morning. I almost want to attribute it to the cable box or something funky w/ the provider..but I'm just not sure. Anyone else ever notice this?

edit: and I was able to get this update you guys were eagerly waiting for. First thing I did. Got into Slacker Radio, loved it. Did see Pandora, but didn't activate it. Netflix seemed really fast! my 41 video Instant Queue loaded up with thumbnail photos immediately. It was cool!
post #2015 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by token2k6 View Post

OMG guys, I need some help. My refurbished 46" unit came in yesterday from Sony to replace my bad W4100 series (sad to see that go) After a quick hook up, I didn't have much time to spend with it, as I had to rush out the door to get to work since I already missed the morning waiting for delivery. I just assessed it as everything looked ok cosmetically, and the picture seemed fine and to be working.

When I got home, anxious to play with it, I noticed it was a lot brighter/whiter than my other unit. This was just on standard picture mode, I didn't toggle w/ the settings. Waited until dark, played Alan Wake which is a very dark atmospheric game, and the little "Brightness" option was really bright to where you can see the words in every box. Even all the way down to zero it was showing. My W series had no problem with this and seemed very dark.

So I start to mess w/ the settings, read some peoples settings, lowering the backlight seemed to help, but honestly it looked good at 0 or 1. Is that unreasonable to be so low?? I don't know, I'm ordering that DVE disc right now, hope I can do that.

My other issue is, I was watching some stuff off my cable box in HD and the screen began to 'flicker' it would flash black, then come right back on. It would do it in almost 3 quick concessions on DVR material, cable HD and SD channels..I thought it could be MotionFlow (I keep at Standard) but even disabled, it did that. TV was on for almost 6 hours by this point, the flashing only acted up for 20 mins, then stopped for an hour. Did not continue this morning. I almost want to attribute it to the cable box or something funky w/ the provider..but I'm just not sure. Anyone else ever notice this?

edit: and I was able to get this update you guys were eagerly waiting for. First thing I did. Got into Slacker Radio, loved it. Did see Pandora, but didn't activate it. Netflix seemed really fast! my 41 video Instant Queue loaded up with thumbnail photos immediately. It was cool!

Good moring token2k6.

Congratulations on your new display. I'd like to guide you with your settings, but unfortunately you've only listed your backlight setting. There are many user settings that can affect the light output.
  • Picture Modes
  • Backlight
  • Picture (Contrast)
  • Brightnesss (Black level)
  • Advanced Contrast Enhancer
  • Gamma
  • Coor Temp
  • And of course White Balance, but it sounds as if you might have left it on default.

Please post back your settings. If you're using Standard mode, with the default Neutral color temp, that would skew the grayscale (White balance) toward blue (RGB) which would brighten the screen considerable.

Try setting the color temp to either Warm 2 or Warm 1. Most feel Warm 2 to be the most accurate in bringing the color temp to 6500K, closest to 65K point, and also the most accurate settings to bring the primary and secondary colors closer to the REC 709 color gamut.

For every step you go up from Warm 2, more blue is added to the grayscale, brightening whites. So by briging it down from Neutral will definitely help.

So the first steps without knowing your current settings would be to Set:
  • Picture mode to Custom
  • Color Temp to Warm 2
  • Backlight to 2 or 3
  • Brightness somewhere around 50
  • Contrast under 90
  • Color between 40 and 50
  • Tint at 0
  • Black Corrector Off
  • Advance Contrast Enhancer Off
  • Gamma 0 or 1
  • Scene setting to General (Sport will brighten image)
Once there, adjust to your rooms lighting conditions. See if it helps with the white issue that you mentioned.

After you receive your DVE BD calibration disc, follow the introductory tutorial, and feel free to reach out to us for any questions you have.

As far as the flicker, make sure your connections are secure.

-Best,
John
post #2016 of 2287
thanks John! Yeah, I was trying to be as pithy as I could..checking all the connections is something I will do tonight, I did think about that as well (its a freaking mess back there!) found out some Best Buy's have that DVE disc, gonna get it during lunch now..I'll report back over the weekend.

edit: and its amazing to see a lot of people choose Warm 2 for color Temp. When I'm on that, it makes everything so yellow. Hence, probably why I need to make sure all the other settings are in-line keep in mind, I am a noob at all this. have always been a 'plug-n-play' person..
post #2017 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by token2k6 View Post

thanks John! Yeah, I was trying to be as pithy as I could..checking all the connections is something I will do tonight, I did think about that as well (its a freaking mess back there!) found out some Best Buy's have that DVE disc, gonna get it during lunch now..I'll report back over the weekend.

edit: and its amazing to see a lot of people choose Warm 2 for color Temp. When I'm on that, it makes everything so yellow. Hence, probably why I need to make sure all the other settings are in-line keep in mind, I am a noob at all this. have always been a 'plug-n-play' person..

You're welcome.

The reason why we use the Warm 2 setting is simple. It's the most accurate color temp setting. When you first use it, it does indeed appear a little yellow, but that is because most are used to viewing an incorrectly set display.

They see all these displays at Best Buy (or wherever) and they are all set to Vivid or Dynamic mode (also known as "torch mode"). The snow has a bluish tinge, reds and greens are oversaturated. Why? Because that is how they are deliberately set from the factory to stand out against their competitors' displays under the harsh conditions of the showroom floor.

If they were all set to industry standard, they wouldn't stand out from one another, and would look washed out under the bright lighting.

So the consumer brings the display home, take it out of the box, and it winds up looking like craaaap. That's because your viewing environment is like that of the showroom floor (at least I hope it isn't). This is why plug and play doesn't work with displays these days.

-John
post #2018 of 2287
token2k6,

I posted directions on how to utilize the DVE BD, and Spears and Munsil Calibration discs in The Official Sony Bravia KDL-Z5100 Calibration / Settings Thread. Post yours! thread.
I hope you find it helpful when you start using the disc.

-Best,
John
post #2019 of 2287
I have had my Z4600 for a few months now and with dsskid's settings the picture is terrific.

There is now a software update waiting for me and I am reluctant to install it.

My current version is aa0153pn
The new version is aa0176pn

Can anyone tell me what is in the update and will it foul up my great picture?
post #2020 of 2287
G
Quote:
Originally Posted by shuter View Post

I have had my Z4600 for a few months now and with dsskid's settings the picture is terrific.

There is now a software update waiting for me and I am reluctant to install it.

My current version is aa0153pn
The new version is aa0176pn

Can anyone tell me what is in the update and will it foul up my great picture?

I called today and they couldn't tell me because it wasn't posted on their website yet.
I'm glad the settings worked out for you.
-Best,
John
post #2021 of 2287
Regarding the 0176pn software update, I don't remember the little program information boxes that now appear for the tuned OTA channel when you are looking at OTA channels in HOME mode. It takes a few seconds for them to come up, but I think they were added with this software update. Not a big deal, but, if I'm correct about this being a new feature, it is evidence that Sony hasn't stopped trying to improve various aspects of the "Z" product.
post #2022 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by token2k6 View Post

OMG guys, I need some help. My refurbished 46" unit came in yesterday from Sony to replace my bad W4100 series (sad to see that go) After a quick hook up, I didn't have much time to spend with it, as I had to rush out the door to get to work since I already missed the morning waiting for delivery. I just assessed it as everything looked ok cosmetically, and the picture seemed fine and to be working.

When I got home, anxious to play with it, I noticed it was a lot brighter/whiter than my other unit. This was just on standard picture mode, I didn't toggle w/ the settings. Waited until dark, played Alan Wake which is a very dark atmospheric game, and the little "Brightness" option was really bright to where you can see the words in every box. Even all the way down to zero it was showing. My W series had no problem with this and seemed very dark.

So I start to mess w/ the settings, read some peoples settings, lowering the backlight seemed to help, but honestly it looked good at 0 or 1. Is that unreasonable to be so low?? I don't know, I'm ordering that DVE disc right now, hope I can do that.

My other issue is, I was watching some stuff off my cable box in HD and the screen began to 'flicker' it would flash black, then come right back on. It would do it in almost 3 quick concessions on DVR material, cable HD and SD channels..I thought it could be MotionFlow (I keep at Standard) but even disabled, it did that. TV was on for almost 6 hours by this point, the flashing only acted up for 20 mins, then stopped for an hour. Did not continue this morning. I almost want to attribute it to the cable box or something funky w/ the provider..but I'm just not sure. Anyone else ever notice this?

edit: and I was able to get this update you guys were eagerly waiting for. First thing I did. Got into Slacker Radio, loved it. Did see Pandora, but didn't activate it. Netflix seemed really fast! my 41 video Instant Queue loaded up with thumbnail photos immediately. It was cool!

Welcome to the Z5100 club!

Like you I have the 46Z5100 and a 52W4100.. and honestly, even though the Z is my primary viewer, I prefer the PQ of the W... it likely has to be the extra 6". I'm trying to convince myself to get a 60EX500 for the family room and use the 52W as my primary set... that would be awesome!
post #2023 of 2287
UPDATE: Sony replaced my new 40Z5100 with a new 46Z5100 and this one works prefectly. Happy at last!
post #2024 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by dho11 View Post

UPDATE: Sony replaced my new 40Z5100 with a new 46Z5100 and this one works prefectly. Happy at last!

Nice upgrade... size makes a HUGE difference, doesn't it?
post #2025 of 2287
Yeah! I wasnt sure if the 46 would fit into the room as its kind of a small room. I figured I would move it up to the bedroom eventually and try a 46. They were supposed to deliver a 40 to replace the original but they delivered a 46 and it fit so I kept it. Pretty sweet given that I paid only $750. Pretty happy with it.
post #2026 of 2287
Thanks for responding to my inquiry about the safety of the latest update. Sounds pretty safe so I'll do it now. I just didn't want to install an update and have it foul up a number of settings or functions like a Microsoft update can do.
post #2027 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by dho11 View Post

Yeah! I wasnt sure if the 46 would fit into the room as its kind of a small room. I figured I would move it up to the bedroom eventually and try a 46. They were supposed to deliver a 40 to replace the original but they delivered a 46 and it fit so I kept it. Pretty sweet given that I paid only $750. Pretty happy with it.

Awesome pickup. Enjoy.
post #2028 of 2287
Does anyone know if the Z series can take a Wi-Fi USB adapter? I'm kind of tired of having the CAT6 cable running from my modem to my TV.
post #2029 of 2287
Why a Wi-Fi USB adapter?
If you mean to plug into the USB port on the tv, I don't think so.
Usually, you would use a wireless dongle that plugs into the ethernet connection on the back of the tv, and then the dongle would communicate the connection with you wireless router.
There are also other methods available too.
I'd advise a search of the proper forum here on AVS, or even searching Amazon or Newegg for wireless adaptation hardware.
post #2030 of 2287
Type_R
You may also want to look into using a powerline ethernet adapter like I did. It works well for me.
-Best,
John
post #2031 of 2287
One more game for the CUP! Go Hawks
post #2032 of 2287
Updated Settings (in my signature). Wanted to reduce backlight while maintaining 40ftls, and tighten 20 IRE.
-Best,
John
post #2033 of 2287
man make your mind!!! lol JK , hope new settings kinda hide the clouding better but with 2 on backlight its hard to watch tv durring sunny day time. Maybe you should try some day time settings.
post #2034 of 2287
Considering the latest F/W update seems to be about Pandora and Pandora seems to be blocked in Canada, anybody tried to use it in Canada?
post #2035 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by cristian_ro View Post

man make your mind!!! lol JK , hope new settings kinda hide the clouding better but with 2 on backlight its hard to watch tv durring sunny day time. Maybe you should try some day time settings.

And that right there is why you need to adjust the settings to your viewing conditions. Suppose John has his set in a darkened room or a basement -- it wouldn't matter one whit what time of day it is or if the sun is out. What works best for his viewing environment may not be what's best for yours.
post #2036 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by cristian_ro View Post

man make your mind!!! lol JK , hope new settings kinda hide the clouding better but with 2 on backlight its hard to watch tv durring sunny day time. Maybe you should try some day time settings.

Hi Cristian.
I usually don't watch TV during the day, so I've never found a need for dedicated daytime settings, and find that 40 ftls is usually good for my late afternoon and evening viewing.

Increased backlighting will make flashlighting more visible, which is why I recalibrated with a backlight of 2, instead of 3 which is what I was using. I did raise picture (contrast) from 85 to 90, to maintain the 40 ftl light output after lowering the backlight. It also helped me tighten up my grayscale at 20 IRE, which was a plus.

To be honest, calibration standards call for a minimum amount of ambient light, to reduce environmental influences. So once you start introducing a lot of room lighting, a calibration to industry standard almost becomes impossible, and you begin to compensate. that is why many prefer a day and night setting on their displays, so that they can increase accuracy during critical nighttime viewing.

If my settings are too dim for your room, during the day you can raise gamma - the rate in which the picture comes out of black, which unfortunately will reduce depth to a point; or the backlight, which makes flashlighting more noticeable; to compensate. And then return to my settings at night.

To make it easy on yourself, you can use my settings under the custom picture mode, then hit the theater button on your remote (not scene modes), copy my settings in this mode, only with an increased backlight or gamma level. This way, if you watch during the day, hit the theater button on the remote, and at night, don't engage it. the Theater mode defaults to "off" after you turn the TV off, and then turn the TV on again.

-Best,
John
post #2037 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugnax555 View Post

And that right there is why you need to adjust the settings to your viewing conditions. Suppose John has his set in a darkened room or a basement -- it wouldn't matter one whit what time of day it is or if the sun is out. What works best for his viewing environment may not be what's best for yours.

You are absolutely correct Pugnax. Thanks for pointing that out. I usually put that disclaimer in my settings, but it is easily overlooked.
-John
post #2038 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

Hi Cristian.
I usually don't watch TV during the day, so I've never found a need for dedicated daytime settings, and find that 40 ftls is usually good for my late afternoon and evening viewing.

Increased backlighting will make flashlighting more visible, which is why I recalibrated with a backlight of 2, instead of 3 which is what I was using. I did raise picture (contrast) from 85 to 90, to maintain the 40 ftl light output after lowering the backlight. It also helped me tighten up my grayscale at 20 IRE, which was a plus.

To be honest, calibration standards call for a minimum amount of ambient light, to reduce environmental influences. So once you start introducing a lot of room lighting, a calibration to industry standard almost becomes impossible, and you begin to compensate. that is why many prefer a day and night setting on their displays, so that they can increase accuracy during critical nighttime viewing.

If my settings are too dim for your room, during the day you can raise gamma - the rate in which the picture comes out of black, which unfortunately will reduce depth to a point; or the backlight, which makes flashlighting more noticeable; to compensate. And then return to my settings at night.

To make it easy on yourself, you can use my settings under the custom picture mode, then hit the theater button on your remote (not scene modes), copy my settings in this mode, only with an increased backlight or gamma level. This way, if you watch during the day, hit the theater button on the remote, and at night, don't engage it. the Theater mode defaults to "off" after you turn the TV off, and then turn the TV on again.

-Best,
John

good info, but i seen you dont use motionflow or cinemotion at all this time and i was wondering why since its not for bluray viewing . If you tune to a channel with scroll bar on the bottom line cnn or other news channel you can tell a difference from off and standard or high. I thought 240hz is active no matter what ,without set motionflow on or off.
post #2039 of 2287
Quote:
Originally Posted by cristian_ro View Post

good info, but i seen you dont use motionflow or cinemotion at all this time and i was wondering why since its not for bluray viewing . If you tune to a channel with scroll bar on the bottom line cnn or other news channel you can tell a difference from off and standard or high. I thought 240hz is active no matter what ,without set motionflow on or off.

I change it depending upon what I'm viewing. I leave them off for Blu ray, and use Standard Auto 2 for cable. I didn't put it on the link because I didn't want to confuse anyone.

I'll update it, let me know if the wording is clear.
post #2040 of 2287
Hey guys, this post is off topic. I apologize for that, but as I have interacted with many of you I thought I would give those of you who live in Southern California a warning. Be careful at Fry's electronics.

I had the most horrible shopping experience at the Fry's electronics in Anaheim on Thursday. I went there to pick up Hot Fuzz from a rain check I got at there 25th anniversary sale. I figured I would be in and out in ten minutes or less. I was wrong.

So I get into the store, make my way to the movie section and discover that there is only one copy of the movie left. I happily grab it and get to the register and pay. Once I get to my car, I open the movie just like I always do to make sure there is nothing wrong with it. Upon opening it I discovered that the case had some scratches on it, and that the Blu Ray logo on the top of the case was kind of faded. I then took the disk out and checked the bottom of it. It was covered in finger prints. I made my way back to the store to return it and get my money back, and get a replacement rain check.

After entering the store I proceed to enter the customer service/returns line. I was waiting in line for ten minutes before anyone even came to help me. Once the customer service woman came I told her what happened and that I only purchased it ten minutes ago. She began implying that I was lying as they "Do not sell used items." After assuring/arguing with her that I had indeed just bought it, she proceeded to call over a higher up employee with who I had to go through the same sort of assurance that I was not lying. The original woman then asked me if I had tried to play it, which I do not understand as I had just bought the disk, and do not keep a blu ray player in my car. I repeated again that I had only just bought it, and told her that I do not carry portable players to test all "new" disks that I buy. She then asked me why I couldn't just take the movie home to try it. By this time I was pretty frustrated and angry, so I somewhat rudely replied that I did not want to take it home and see if it works because I payed for a new movie and that is what I expect to have.

She then called the higher up over again and told him I wanted a refund. I interjected saying that I also wanted my rain check back, as it was used on an item they should not have been selling. The higher ranking employee proceeded to tell me that they could only give me store credit. I almost lost it on the guy. I spent the next ten minutes convincing him that he legally needed to give me my cash back. He finally relented and wrote up a return for me, he then informed me I would have to go back and wait in the main line to get my money. I reminded him about the rain check and he said I would have to go wait in another line and try to get it from them but that he did not think they would give it to me. I asked why, and he said because I already used my rain check!

I went to the other line told her the situation and she seemed to be giving me what I wanted and wrote up another rain check. The only problem was that she gave me the price of the current sale and not the price of my original rain check. It was only about a three dollar difference, but I still find the situation ridiculous. I began arguing with her, telling her I want the price I had. She said no. I asked to speak to a manager, and she said that he was in San Diego on an "emergency." She said the only other person who could do it was the guy who sent me over to her in the first place. I old her to call him and get him to write it, but when she called he said he wouldn't. Which I think is amusing as he had said that he did not think I would get it. Obviously I wouldn't get it if he refused to write it. He made me go stand in the other line for no reason apparently. The woman then told me that the only way that I could get the same price is if I did not get a refund that day and instead use my refund sheet to get a straight exchange once they got it back in stock, which she said would be a long way away as it was on back order. I told her that there was no way in hell I would let them keep my money till god knows when.

I then went to the line to get my refund, got it and began walking towards the exit. As I was walking in that direction so was the guy who would not write the rain check. Once he saw me he quickly turned to go in the opposite direction.

What should have been a ten minute trip ended up being an hour and eleven minutes. I did not even get what I came for.

I just want everyone to be aware of my experience so that something like this does not happen to you. Be very careful at Fry's.

Obviously I will no longer support them with my business and occasional need for instant gratification. I will stick with Amazon.
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