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Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - Page 2

post #31 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

There seems to be alot of Bruces' here.
Thanks and welcome to the forum.

rightintel; ASAIK, the lamp only has one 'setting'. It does not vary in output unlike some other manufactures (some Samsung and Toshiba models for example). The 'picture' settings might adjust the 'iris' to reduce the amount of light that hits the DMD, but that's it.
Hours vary from a couple thousand to over 9,000. It's a crap shoot on how much you get.
As far as where to get a replacement, I don't know what to tell you since I haven't had to replace the lamp yet (knock on wood) other than I would just get the lamp irself, not the whole assembly.

The lamp on my 73-735 has 2 settings. Standard and Bright.
post #32 of 386
Thread Starter 
Interesting, then they made a change. Can you see a difference from the back of the unit with actual lamp brightness? IOW's does light output drop from the light spill out the vent slots?
post #33 of 386
Anyone have before and after pics of your set's picture?
post #34 of 386
Anyone in the Bay Area know of a good authorized repair center that will do this and that has fixed this issues? I have had "authorized" repair service before on previous hdtv's and have been told what I called for is "normal" (blue tube was out and everything was green). My worry is that they will not recongnize this as a problem or not know who how to fix it. My father in-law does not really see it even though it is REALLY BAD, and I know he will see the difference once it is fixed.
post #35 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Interesting, then they made a change. Can you see a difference from the back of the unit with actual lamp brightness? IOW's does light output drop from the light spill out the vent slots?

I can take note this weekend and get back with you on Monday.
post #36 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by curtishd View Post

Anyone have before and after pics of your set's picture?

The difference is barely noticeable to the naked eye and I doubt a camera can show the difference, but I will take "before and after" pictures this weekend and post them on Monday.
post #37 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Interesting, then they made a change. Can you see a difference from the back of the unit with actual lamp brightness? IOW's does light output drop from the light spill out the vent slots?

Yes, the light output from the back is dimmer when the lamp is set to standard vs bright. I did take some before / after pictures. But like I mention, it is not noticeable via the pictures. It is very noticeable in person. I will post them anyway, and also post a screen shot of the menu where you can make the bulb brightness change.
LL
LL
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post #38 of 386
Thread Starter 
Your 'auto' setting on the camera hide any changes.

I see they made a radical change in the menu also. Any idea what the current draw is when the TV is in the two standby modes? Maybe they reduced that also. These were always power hogs when off, even in low power.
post #39 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by curtishd View Post

Anyone in the Bay Area know of a good authorized repair center that will do this and that has fixed this issues? I have had "authorized" repair service before on previous hdtv's and have been told what I called for is "normal" (blue tube was out and everything was green). My worry is that they will not recongnize this as a problem or not know who how to fix it. My father in-law does not really see it even though it is REALLY BAD, and I know he will see the difference once it is fixed.

I assume you mean the difference in "Fast Power On" and "Low Power"? With fast power on, it reacts as stated, the TV powers on relatively quick, but consumes more electricity. With "Low Power", because it is conserving electricity, it takes quite a bit more time to power on, but the draw back is that if you unplug the set, loose power or have the set turned off for longer then 48 hours, all of your settings will be reset to default.
post #40 of 386
I want to thank everyone responsible for this thread. Not only did you guys save me $600.00 but my Mits WD65831 looks as good as it did the day I bought it and why I bought it. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
post #41 of 386
Thread Starter 
Glad I could help.
BTW, welcome to the froums.
post #42 of 386
Awesome tutorial, thank you so much. My (stupid) question- I bought one of these sets used from a wife's co worker, and I LOVE it. I haven't noticed any blurriness or anything of the like. Is this a "preventative" thing, or should I wait until it happens to attempt? thanks!
post #43 of 386
I would wait and do this only if you were experiencing a lack of clearness in your picture. I did this cleaning (thanks videobruce) on my dad's 57731 and it really helped his picture.
post #44 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mula1 View Post

I assume you mean the difference in "Fast Power On" and "Low Power"? With fast power on, it reacts as stated, the TV powers on relatively quick, but consumes more electricity. With "Low Power", because it is conserving electricity, it takes quite a bit more time to power on, but the draw back is that if you unplug the set, loose power or have the set turned off for longer then 48 hours, all of your settings will be reset to default.

No, your settings don't get reset to default. It takes longer to power on, but your settings don't reset. I waited a week for a new bulb once. My set was unplugged, and my settings didn't reset.
post #45 of 386
Thread Starter 
It takes 50 seconds longer if you are in the 'Low power' mode, but the set draws alot less current. If you don't use TVGOS, there is NO reason to have it in 'Fast Power On'.

Mits' sets are power hogs enough when their so called 'Low Power' mode as it is.
post #46 of 386
Hey,Bruce!

It's been a long while since I had a Mits(65732) and the blooming.It was replaced by the extended warranty company(after a WAR!).I got a Samsung HL 67A750 in exchange.It's a nicer TV,but has been discontinued and has it's own set of problems(at least no bulbs!).

The EW company let me keep the Mits,which I promptly cleaned,got a superb picture and eventually sold.Kudos on this great tutorial.I had contributed a few pics during the earlier thread,but nothing like this!!!!Great.

A question for 2008/2009 Mits DLP owners.......Have the newer Mits dlps had the "blooming"....aka "halo" problem?

Fred
post #47 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

It takes 50 seconds longer if you are in the 'Low power' mode, but the set drwas alot less current. If you don't use TVGOS, there is NO reason to have it in 'Fast Power On'.

Mits' sets are power hogs enough when their so called 'Low Power' mode as it is.

Bruce, I usually agree with you. However, calling the DLPs power hogs is just plain out there. RP DLPs use waaaay less power than LCD's or plasmas.
post #48 of 386
Thread Starter 
aVOLanche; Thanks for the kudos, but I have no idea about the current line of sets. You would best ask in the receptive thread.

allargon; I didn't call all DLP's power hogs, just these from Mits, per the quote you quoted! I have owned both Mits and Sammy DLP's and Sammy has Mits beat hangs down, especially with their LED driven DLP's by a mile.
Quote:


Mits' sets are power hogs
post #49 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

aVOLanche; Thanks for the kudos, but I have no idea about the current line of sets. You would best ask in the receptive thread.

allargon; I didn't call all DLP's power hogs, just these from Mits, per the quote you quoted! I have owned both Mits and Sammy DLP's and Sammy has Mits beat hangs down, especially with their LED driven DLP's by a mile.

Am I correct in reading you prefer the Sammy LED over the mits DLP? My 65831, at least for me is still pretty strong and I would prefer it over the LED Sammy which my friend has. After two halo cleaning jobs, it seems the problem may be gone-knock on wood!
post #50 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by ck007 View Post

Am I correct in reading you prefer the Sammy LED over the mits DLP? My 65831, at least for me is still pretty strong and I would prefer it over the LED Sammy which my friend has. After two halo cleaning jobs, it seems the problem may be gone-knock on wood!

I absolutely prefer the Samsung LED driven DLP over the Mits(I owned a Mits WD-65732 for over 2 years).It is dead quiet(none of that awful fan noise).The white letters on a black background is easily better.It's has better image quality on both SD and especially HD.It's sharper and more vibrant without having "day-glo" colors.I honestly think it's(the LED version only) the best RP DLP ever made......and I have owned Sony,Hitachi,Mits,and now Samsung(still have a a Sony as a 2nd TV).

My wife comments frequently on how much better it is.We are comparing 65" to 67"....so there is little difference in size(should favor the smaller Mits anyway).

Here's the thing.In my mind,until you live with a TV a while,it's hard to judge the differences.I'm convinced of that.This TV looks NOTHING like it did on a brief viewing in the showroom(same when I got the Mits).

Let's put it this way.If I could buy another NEW Samsung like the one I have,I'd get it as a back-up,since this set is discontinued.I like it that much.I realize that people tend to like the brand that they own,but I have had both.However,if my Samsung went bad,I'd go back to a 65" Mits(as that's all there is in an RP DLP) and be OK with that.
post #51 of 386
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Am I correct in reading you prefer the Sammy LED over the mits DLP? My 65831

Absolutely. Lowest power consumption, NO color wheel, no lamps to change, less heat, BUT only one RF input (major problem with just about ALL TV's now ).
Quote:


In my mind,until you live with a TV a while,it's hard to judge the differences.

Dido.

BTW, I'm not a Sammy fan boy either.
post #52 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Absolutely. Lowest power consumption, NO color wheel, no lamps to change, less heat, BUT only one RF input (major problem with just about ALL TV's now ). Dido.

BTW, I'm not a Sammy fan boy either.

I will say that I had major questions about the Sammy LCD DLP before I bought it(actually....before I got it from the EW company).I viewed it and the Mits at HHGregg and couldn't tell much difference.It was an '09 Mits and an original HL 67A750,so that may have been an issue.The Sammy was horribly adjusted and I was able to quickly adjust the Mits(since I owned one).

But when I got the Sammy home....WOW!And I had it side-by-side with my newly cleaned(bloom-free) WD-65732.So I had the unusual ability to see both TVs in my home,one beside the other for a couple of weeks.No contest.....not even close.So I sold the Mits.I just hope the Samsung doesn't need repair,since parts availabilty is a question mark!!
post #53 of 386
Thread Starter 
Isn't/wasn't there a issue with viewing angle and output over the conventional models and some other issue(s) if I remember some of the reviews correctly??
post #54 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Isn't/wasn't there a issue with viewing angle and output over the conventional models and some other issue(s) if I remember some of the reviews correctly??

Yes,there is a slightly narrower viewing angle,both vertically and to a lesser degree,horizontally.I quickly adapted to that and never notice it.My wife likes to lie in the floor to watch TV,and she doesn't complain(I'd never even consider that!).I don't even know whether this is more pronounced on the 67"(vs the 61").It's no big deal to me,especially with the better image quality.
post #55 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Absolutely. Lowest power consumption, NO color wheel, no lamps to change, less heat, BUT only one RF input (major problem with just about ALL TV's now ). Dido.

BTW, I'm not a Sammy fan boy either.

aVOLanche....videobruce-very interesting feedback. although I am content with my 65831, I agree with the remark "until you live with a TV a while,it's hard to judge the differences". Thanks for sharing input and opinions.
post #56 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by allargon View Post

No, your settings don't get reset to default. It takes longer to power on, but your settings don't reset. I waited a week for a new bulb once. My set was unplugged, and my settings didn't reset.

My bad, you must reset the TV clock if using low power and the TV is left turned off for more then 48 hours.
post #57 of 386
I stumbled upon this thread while doing a search for WD 65831 halo. Having performed the procedure outlined above, I joined the forum expressly to thank videobruce.

When I got to the 'final' lens as shown in the photos, mine was about 1/3 covered by a nearly opaque gray crud. This stuff actually had a fairly sharp edge to it, as if a thin drop of something like yogurt had spread over the area.

It took about 1/2 hour to clean the lens thoroughly. I also cleaned the window at the end of the tube and the large lens at the top of the engine.

Upon reassembly, I noticed two effects:

1. The halo was gone.

2. I had alway run this set on the "Brilliant" setting and it always appeared a little dim even at that. After the cleaning, I had to reduce the setting to "Normal" and it is still brighter than it ever was before.

Apparently the junk on the lens was scattering so much light out of the intended path that it actually reduced the brightness of the display by a huge amount.

Using the procedure of videobruce has essentially resurrected this unit and has made it really superb display.

Thanks again videobruce!

PS -- I think the 5/8" wrench listed in the required tools should perhaps be an 8mm wrench.
post #58 of 386
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the complaint.
I will say, I wasn't the one to discover this. I just wanted a far more detailed thread instead of a few less than ideal photos that left much to the imagination.
Quote:


mine was about 1/3 covered by a nearly opaque gray crud. This stuff actually had a fairly sharp edge to it, as if a thin drop of something like yogurt had spread over the area.

Too bad you didn't take some pics of this. I don't know what would cause that much buildup. That one step another member suggested, I never did so I don't know what the lens shutter mechanism looks like. I can only assume since that is the only thing near this lens, this stuff is coming from there. The constant moving of the 'iris' vane raises debris that settles on the lens. I'm wondering if there is some lubrication involved. that would also account for this buildup.
Quote:


I think the 5/8" wrench listed in the required tools should perhaps be an 8mm wrench.

Probably correct since this is a Asian designed device. I didn't have a metric set handy and found the 5/5" to work fine. I will correct the text.
post #59 of 386
Bruce -- I think 5/16" is the correct 'English' measure. Translates to 7.9mm or thereabouts.

The stuff on my lens surely could have been a lubricant. It was quite 'greasy' and with my mildest lens cleaner the stuff basically smeared around as I wiped with a Q-tip. In fact, most of the stuff was lifted 'physically' by the cotton. When I finally tried some Superior Optical cleaner, it seemed to disolve the material. A final wipe with a microfiber towel got it pristine clean.

PS -- I certainly agree about the mega corporations. Roosevelt fixed the entire banking thing in 1933. There was never a good reason to go back.
post #60 of 386
Thread Starter 
If this was that time, my sig would read "13 years of de-regulation".
Love how history repeats itself, this time is 2x as much.

BTW, welcome to the forums.
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