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Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - Page 13

post #361 of 386
Thread Starter 
Use a test DVD with a white 'window' in the center of a black screen and see if it shows. It won't return that fast. wink.gif
post #362 of 386
I need to clean mine about every 12-18 months or so. I've had the LE replaced under warranty before it ran out then started cleaning it myself. It usually needs a cleaning about the same time the lamp starts getting dim and needs replacement.
post #363 of 386
First off, thanks to all involved in this thread. Picked up one of these free a few days back off of freecycle. Noticed it was a bit dim, assumed it was the bulb, but found this thread and decided to take a look. sure enough, the lens was gooped up.

Got it taken apart, cleaned up, and re-installed. After putting it back together, plugged it in and got nothing. Seems in my haste, I had missed the internal DVI and the brown wired two connector plug. Plugged those in and tried again, I'm getting a click after plugging in and a constantly blinking green timer light. Anything obvious I'm missing. All references I see to the timer light blinking (no discernible pattern) point to a bunch of power caps failing. I suppose it's possible my leaving those unplugged led to that, but seems a bit farfetched.

Any ideas? I have hit the reset button on the front, and pulled the LE again, cant see any unplugged cables.
post #364 of 386
Thread Starter 
Bad ballast? Check leads to lamp.
post #365 of 386
Will do.
post #366 of 386
Yanked it all out, inspected leads from power supply over into the ballast, the dual brow, then the wires from ballast to lamp. Lamp looks intact. TV worked fine before the dis-assembly, so the ballast was good then. I'll toss it back together in the AM and see what I got.
post #367 of 386
Well, buttoned it up, same deal, audible click in the cabinet, same blinking green light. Next step, in the AM, is to get a helper to plug it in while
I have the back open and lamp switch taped closed. See if I can localize the click.
post #368 of 386
Thread Starter 
The "click" is the ballast trying to start the lamp. Either the lamp went south or the ballast did. The sets tries three times to start. After that is quits.
Remove the lamp assembly and take a close look at the actual bulb itself. Is is bulged or cloudy?
post #369 of 386
Nothing obvious to me, except what looks like some sort of dusty types deposits on the bottom. Is there a check of any kind I can do with my multimeter? IF it is the bulb. I figured on buying one of those anyway, but the more surety I have that that's the problem the better.

post #370 of 386
Hi Darin (post #277)
Thanks for your detailed and elaborate steps to 'fight' with image quality issues.I tried to clean my Mitsubishi WD-65736 - as much as possible as described on this thread, but faced same - image centering lost issue! After reading your post, I seriosly want to try the cleaning of DMD chip from opposite side of Light Engine. The lamp hours on my TV are not bad - 4470.

The reason I wanted to try cleaning was not - haze or blob or halo effect. I am facing 'glow' in the dark problem. When TV screen is supposed to go full - 'blank' (e.g. when you switch channels, brief interval between that action) or when the low light shots are running (e.g. Tonight Show by Jay Leno - opening sequence), I noticed that the Wd-65736 TV is not producing deep black shades any more. After switching the TV off - as long as the lamp keeps ON, screen is filled with a faint light glow (It used to go full blank before). Clearly there is some light escaping the path and coming all the way to screen. It has killed the whole experience for me - especially in dark scenes- no matter wheter I watch TV or bluray movies.
Any specific poinnters to this - glow in the dark issue ?
post #371 of 386
Hi All,
During described cleaning procedure, has any of you removed the metal part from rear optical assembly of LE ? As per earlier posts, there is supposed to be mirror inside...possibility of some film formation on it.
I have two questions -
1. Since there is 'blue' seal on the silver screws (I have WD-65736,2008 model), after we clean inside parts, does it disturb - Focus (loss of sharpness of picture) ?
2. Do we have any pictures of inside parts ?
Since in the service manual, there are no instructons / controls for adjusting the focus, I am worried before I open this metal part of the assembly. I cleaned all other parts (DMD chip surface, DMD chip separator glass (from other side of LE), mirrors next to DMD chip, projections lens, BUT still see - little glow/particles (No it is not same as white doits issue which needs DMD chip replacement) on screen when it goes full dark (all black screen), also resulting in bad low light scenes (even while watching blu-ray).

Wondering if any one can help.
post #372 of 386
Thread Starter 
Take a look at post 5;

There is also discussion some time back in the thread regarding this.,
post #373 of 386
Thanks Videobruce! I checked the previous posts.

With all hopes (since all other parts I cleaned - inspired by this forum , did not help to fix the issue) Finally, decided to open the metalic plate. The mirror on the otherside of this metalic plate looks special! In my case, I did not find any rsidual film/haze/dust inside. After fixing the part back, TV did not loose any focus or sharpness (Fortunately) of the image projection.

My original problem is not resolved by this procedure mad.gif I still see 'lighted' screen even when there is no picture coming from source. Again - hard to explain but some picture I am attaching here may give you an idea... strictly speaking - the legendary Mitsubishi DLP TV is not producing 'black' level reliably at all. only those scenes which are mix of good light and dark shaded look good. As soon as 'low' light or dark scenes start, even my other family members notice the difference.

I now suspect it may not be mirror/lens/dust/haze. It may be the DMD chip (?) itself? But again only time DMD chip replacement is needed when you get - permanent white/black dots on your screen right ? My problem doesn't look like the same. There is some light coming on the screen like a 'noisy' (analogue TV) picture all the time.

Any suggestions ? or pointer ?

Mirror on the back of the metalic plate.

My DLP TV's - weird - loss of black levels issue:

Illumination of screen when actually it is supposed to be full blank - dark!

Only enjoyable scenes like this :
post #374 of 386
Thread Starter 
It looks like an internal reflection from a outside light source. Is the situation for the TV (room, lighting, windows etc.) the same as when you originally received it?
post #375 of 386
Not actually. I own this TV since 2008. It was working just fine so far. Another thing I noticed is, Screen goes full dark when I switch off TV (or when the lamp is turned off for power saving)
I have also ordered a new lamp, but not much hopeful either on that front.

As far as I remember, it just started out of no where....After reading this post on AVSForum, I was very hopeful, that I can fix this.
It just takes the fun away of owning the HDTV!
post #376 of 386
Thread Starter 
Is the viewing environment the same as it was when you bought it? Windows, shades, curtains etc on windows? How about at night with no lights, do you see this 'hot' spot?
Have you looked through the links for these TV's in the repair sticky at the top of this sub-forums page?
post #377 of 386
At night, the issue is even more worst and very prominent. The 'noisy' illumination is sure coming within from the TV itself.
I will check the repairs links as you suggested. Very interesting so far.....
Edited by poffers1200 - 7/14/13 at 7:27pm
post #378 of 386
Thread Starter 
I don't know what to tell you. I would think it is a optical problem. Good luck.
post #379 of 386
So do Dlp rear pros normally need this kind of cleaning? Is it a flaw with this particular brand?
post #380 of 386
I've only seen it on the 2007 series. My 2008 and my son's 2009 do not have the problem.
post #381 of 386
Originally Posted by squeakybirnbaum View Post

Thanks, I found the service manual and downloaded it last night. It was really easy to understand and I was able to take everything out of the back of the TV and blow it out and wipe it down. I have had the TV for around 2 years and we have a wood stove so there was quite a bit of dust in it. I was worried about dust getting in something important but it seems like everything is sealed except for the actual lamp.

I did a thorough cleaning of my first Mits DLP, a 62725 and posted up pix years ago and did a step-by-step photo tutorial for others to reference Cleaning Mits WD-62725 DLP and I was hoping there was a similar HOW-TO on my current Mits WD-65737. I've got about 5000 hours on the bulb, no apparent problem but the set doesn't seem as bright or awesome as it used to look when it was maybe 6 months old. If you come across such a How-To, please let me know via PM and include a link.

post #382 of 386
Thread Starter 
Different chassis design. Never saw a mirror that dusty, your household must have a 'dust' issue. (kids, pets, etc.)
post #383 of 386
I had that model (52725) and with no pets or kids mine got almost that dirty in just a couple years. It was a design problem with the mirror placement and air flow.
I used IronHorse's step-by-step to clean mine and it looked like new again.
Edited by Tom Thomas - 10/10/13 at 6:43am
post #384 of 386
Thread Starter 
Looks as they traded exterior dust collection for interior with the newer model.
post #385 of 386
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

My photos are specifically for the 57732 model. For other sizes and models, there are differences. Courtesy of amar1995, this thread shows pics of the 73732 which is completely different, even though both are the same series (732);

I decided to do the procedure to solve the common 'halo' or 'blooming' effect with the 2007 Mit's DLP's. I believe this would also apply to the 2006 and 2008 model years. (Please correct me if this is wrong.)

What is happening is a film develops over time on one of the inner lens surfaces that creates a 'halo' or 'blooming' effect with bright objects on dark backgrounds. Similar to a power supply on a CRT going bad, hence the term "blooming".

A few members posted some photos of the procedure, but I found those to be lacking on exactly what to do and what to watch out for. This is not for a beginner. This involves removing the commonly called "light engine" and lens assembly to gain access to the problem area.

Other than going directly through the manufacture, there is at least one supplier of parts. The subject of replacing the color wheel has come up, but Mits does not list color wheels as a separate replacement part, you have to replace the whole LE. Here is a source for parts courtesy of forum member 'colour'. This is not solely for Mits;


A summary from two years ago on actual parts replacement costs;

For the xx627 series, Doug40 provided these four posts;

I've read about half of the 400 pages of this thread. I'm pretty certain that this is the procedure I need to do for my TV. Only I have the WD-65738 and I'm not sure how to get to the offending lens. I've cleaned every lens I can get to, but removing a "tube" of lenses doesn't seem to translate. I picked up the service manual as well, but it doesn't cover digging into the optics. What I have cleaned thus far is the inside and out of the obvious lens... and by removing the mirror as instructed I could clean the surface of it and the glass under it as best I could with special cotton swabs and solution from my camera lens cleaning kit. The problem persists and I can only assume by others success that I have not made it the culprit glass yet. I've been searching this and other forums for three days now... any help would be greatly appreciated. I've added a photo of the halo issue I'm trying to correct.
post #386 of 386
Thread Starter 
I would lean towards the DMD itself being defective. Age & heat taking it's toll similar to Sony's 'green glob' problem with their LCoS sets.
How is it with a gray and white field?
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