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Mitsubishi 2007 (and possibility '06 & '08) lens cleaning procedure. No more halo's. - Page 3

post #61 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by ck007 View Post

Am I correct in reading you prefer the Sammy LED over the mits DLP? My 65831, at least for me is still pretty strong and I would prefer it over the LED Sammy which my friend has. After two halo cleaning jobs, it seems the problem may be gone-knock on wood!

I have had a mits 65831 since they first came out. I to cleaned my set using this method. I bought The Samsung 67A750 in March 09 and prefer its picture over the Mits, When the Samsung broke last week I had the 65 Mits as a backup.
post #62 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHAS ZOSS View Post

I have had a mits 65831 since they first came out. I to cleaned my set using this method. I bought The Samsung 67A750 in March 09 and prefer its picture over the Mits, When the Samsung broke last week I had the 65 Mits as a backup.

Must look pretty good to top the Mits.
post #63 of 386
I too have joined this forum primarily to thank VideoBruce for these instructions. I have a 57732 and a Google search led me here. I performed the lens cleaning in about an hour and 15 mins. My lens did not look quite as dirty as the one in the photos you have but it did have an obvious haze on it. It was pretty difficult to remove but with about 10 mins of "Q-Tipping" I managed to get it perfectly clear again. Without some lens cleaning fluid it would have been much harder.
Very suprising how great of an effect that had on my image quality. It truly is like I have a brand new Television. No a very difficult to do process at all, just be methodical and all should go well.
FWIW, I also took apart the rest of the lens assenbly as told by another poster but found no need to clean those surfaces.
Thanks Again for the "New TV"
Dallas
post #64 of 386
Thread Starter 
PWK; Thanks, and welcome to the forum.
post #65 of 386
I was glad to see the photo of the thermal sensor in this thread. As a part of the cleaning procedure, I also did an experiment on the sensor connector.

I had seen the dreaded "TV will shut down in a few seconds-------" message about three times during the week before I did the lens cleaning. I learned from several sources on the web that this was probably a connector problem. So, when I had the light engine out of the cabinet I decided to try a method that I have used for years on balky music system connectors. I cleaned both connector halves with deoxit and when they dried, I gave the male pins a good wetting with Stabilant 22 and reassembled the connector. Stabilant is semi-conductor polymer which seems to maintain a very low contact resistance for years if the connection is undisturbed.

So far, the message has not returned and I am curious to see how long this will last.

Finally, I believe that the 'factory' fix for this problem is to remove the connector altogether and to solder the wires together. If my simpler fix fails, I will try that next.
post #66 of 386
Thank You VideoBruce, You are the man! I just did the procedure and it was a breeze thanks to you detailed instructions and photographs. Im SHOCKED how good the old Mits looks after a little TLC.

Thanks Again!

Tom
post #67 of 386
A tech under extended warranty service said nothing could be done about the blooming/halos -- "That's normal for tvs with reflective screens."

I didn't think it was.

So, after a good bit of searching, I found this thread, followed your excellent directions (thanks for the photos and the specificity), and now I have a brand new television.

Thank you, videobruce!
post #68 of 386
Thread Starter 
Sounds as a typical (so called) "tech". Half of these guys would have trouble changing out a lamp.

BTW, welcome to the forums.
post #69 of 386
videobruce,

Thank you for the welcome.

Now that the image quality is so much improved, I notice that when reading text, two areas of the screen are a bit blurry: a small area center-bottom, and the lower-right.

Any ideas how to fix that? I wiped down the screen (outside).

Regards,

A.
post #70 of 386
I'd like to add my thanks to videobruce and all the others who contributed to this thread.

I finally got the nerve to do the cleaning. After my LE was replaced in June of '08 for blooming, my warranty was just about up at that time, I noticed it returning later that year. I have been following this and other XX831 threads here and have been compiling info for the procedure.

I followed the directions and voila, my wife has commented several times since how GREAT the picture is again! It was such a simple process and I even got the picture geometry corrected while I was at it.

Thanks again to all.
post #71 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Thomas View Post

I'd like to add my thanks to videobruce and all the others who contributed to this thread.

I finally got the nerve to do the cleaning. After my LE was replaced in June of '08 for blooming, my warranty was just about up at that time, I noticed it returning later that year. I have been following this and other XX831 threads here and have been compiling info for the procedure.

I followed the directions and voila, my wife has commented several times since how GREAT the picture is again! It was such a simple process and I even got the picture geometry corrected while I was at it.

Thanks again to all.

Truly amazing how good this unit can be when cleaned.
post #72 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by ck007 View Post

Truly amazing how good this unit can be when cleaned.

Really, now I remember why I bought this set!
post #73 of 386
Experiment failed. Two weeks and the shutdown message appeared. However, I'm still glad that this thread showed how easy it is to remove the light engine to work on things like that.
post #74 of 386
Thread Starter 
bass_player; That sensor should be covered under warranty even after a year. It is a well known defect.
post #75 of 386
Add me to the list of pleased "customers"

Mine looked like it had had a nose pressed on it.

My wife seems to think that it started looking worse after we replaced the bulb.

After cleaning it's SIGNIFICANTLY brighter, with much better blacks and colors, and all of the bloom is gone.

Thanks for this AWESOME thread!

ETA: 65732 here btw.
post #76 of 386
OK, so I've got to say this post is AWESOME! Great job. My father in-law and I bought the same TV 10-2006, the Mitsu WD57831. His actually died about 2 years ago with a "guide light" issue. Does anyone know if that is related to the problems here? Anyway, I'm still covered under warranty (expires 10/11) and should have a service repair person out this week. My only worry is that this person fails to see the issue with the TV. Clear as day to me...no pun intended.

Stay tuned!
post #77 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

bass_player; That sensor should be covered under warranty even after a year. It is a well known defect.

Right, I did get it replaced under warranty. Many of the posts on these forums have pointed toward the connector as the culprit. In my case that might not have been so. The tech simply installed a new sensor and plugged it in as before. Some have claimed that the 'real' fix is to remove the connector and solder the sensor leads. We shall see. So far, the set is running OK.

The tech also pointed out that the output mirrors (observed through the inspection ports on the sides of the TV) were quite dirty. I may clean them, although I would really like to know whether or not these mirrors are 'overcoated' with quartz (SiO2) or are virgin metal before I do so.
post #78 of 386
TV tech came in and diagnosed light engine problem! Anyone know how much a light engine for Mitsu WD-57831 costs? I wonder if the warranty company is going to replace or give me $ credit towards new TV?
post #79 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass_player View Post

Right, I did get it replaced under warranty. Many of the posts on these forums have pointed toward the connector as the culprit. In my case that might not have been so. The tech simply installed a new sensor and plugged it in as before. Some have claimed that the 'real' fix is to remove the connector and solder the sensor leads. We shall see. So far, the set is running OK.

Actually the soldering "fix" is outdated, and turned out to only "appear" to fix the issue. A serviceman (forum member) told me that the real cause was a poor quality sensor component, and Mits is replacing them with a better part to solve this issue. I had the "Check Airflow... shutting down." crud about a year and a half ago. Guy came out and just replaced a part, been fine ever since.

wd57831

I haven't done the len's cleaning yet, But I think I need to. I'm noticing a bit of bloom around white text on black background. Just need to get a friend to help me lift it and put on the table for surgery
post #80 of 386
Thread Starter 
You don't have to move the whole set. Just the LE. It's not heavy or large.

Prices for what they call the "Optical Engine" (the Light Engine):
For the WD-57732; $450 retail (plus labor), $300 dealer (includes a $300 returned core) plus shipping.

Ballast replacement is $115 retail (plus labor), $70 dealer (includes a $15 returned core) plus shipping.
post #81 of 386
I mean the tv itself away from the wall to where I can work on it. It's on a nice glass stand that does not have wheels.
post #82 of 386
VIDEOBRUCE.........HEEEELP!!!! I'm a first timer and found this site by luck and I already love what i've read. I just recently bought a used Mitsubishi WD-52327 52" DLP. Can you please tell me if the procedure to clean the lens is the same as the other Mitsus you mentioned? I have the same halo, fog that a few of you guys mentioned. Thank you sooo much for a response.
post #83 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by bgtyme63 View Post

VIDEOBRUCE.........HEEEELP!!!! I'm a first timer and found this site by luck and I already love what i've read. I just recently bought a used Mitsubishi WD-52327 52" DLP. Can you please tell me if the procedure to clean the lens is the same as the other Mitsus you mentioned? I have the same halo, fog that a few of you guys mentioned. Thank you sooo much for a response.

Please review post number 2437 on this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ng#post7166361
post #84 of 386
Thanks ckoo7 for the reply. I have the blooming/halo effect going on with my picture. So your saying I need to go through the front to clean my mirror? Is that because it's an older tv? I thought i would need to go through the back to clean the lens? My DLP is a Mitsubishi WD-52327
post #85 of 386
YES! YES! YES!!!! ckOO7!!!! Thank you!!! I just got done cleaning the mirror and the lens and my pix looks AWESOME!! THANK YOU AND THANK EVERYONE ON THIS THREAD!!!!!!!
post #86 of 386
Ok my problem is this. I have a 2007 WD 65 inch DLP. I have had it for 2 years 2 months. Now I have these white dots on the screen. At first it was one. Now I am up to 15 and counting. They are all on the left side of the screen. Some new ones are near the middle. I am pretty tech savy....I have already removed the light engine myself before I even read this.

Any ideals ? Or am I done ?
post #87 of 386
Thread Starter 
Just how large are these "dots"? If these are barely noticeable unless you are close, those are dead pixels in the DMD and the only solution is to replace it (the whole LE).
post #88 of 386
I just bought a 57732 from my parents as they upgraded to the 65737. They bought the 57732 from Fry's in 2007 with the 5yr extended warranty. About a year ago they used the 1 time bulb replacement. Ever since then the screen had a cloudy, washed out look to it. It seems as though the whites and light colors bleed into the blacks/darker colors. It had always bugged me, but they just went along with it, saying that's how it had always looked. Now that I have ownership, I was considering cleaning the lens as has been instructed. My question, is this something that would be covered under the warranty? I read the warranty terms and couldn't come to a conclusion whether or not it was included. Also, if I were to do this, would it void the warranty?
post #89 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Just how large are these "dots"? If these are barely noticeable unless you are close, those are dead pixels in the DMD and the only solution is to replace it (the whole LE).

Hmm well they are like a pin head size. You can clearly see them from where I sit to watch the tv. When you turn the TV off, you can actually count them

When I am watching the TV, you can see them form actually. First you will see a flicker...then the light starts, then it becomes a solid white dot. At first I thought it was dust, but I have taken the LE apart, before I even read your guide, and I did not see any difference. I read the Samsungs dlp threads about white dots, and it seems the light engine is dead.

I have a deal to get a 65737 new for 886$. Is it worth upgrading to the newer models then get a warranty ?

Or can I replace the LE cheap ?
post #90 of 386
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMBailey View Post

My question, is this something that would be covered under the warranty? I read the warranty terms and couldn't come to a conclusion whether or not it was included. Also, if I were to do this, would it void the warranty?

I have the same set also purchased from Fry's. However, I didn't buy their warranty. They likely won't clean the lens just offer to replace the light engine or the entire set. Yes, it will likely void your warranty if you clean it yourself.

The best thing to do is to file a claim. At best they give you a new set and let you keep the old set. Then, you can clean the old set and enjoy a nice new set to sell/enjoy/etc.
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