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The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1019AH Owner's Thread - Page 55

post #1621 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by primus_2001 View Post

LOL...I can't believe I did this to myself :-

Thx Jarsofwei..My wife is having a hearty laugh since saw me struggle with this deal. Ugghh

Ok. But then I could still be wrong. This is what i did -

1. INPUT - set this to TV/SAT
(as expected the items were no longer grey'd out)
2. INPUT NAME - Rename
3. INPUT SKIP - OFF

Digital In - what's this? Anyways set it to Opt-1 assuming it's option 1
HDMI - set it to HDMI 1 since my Uverse STB is connected to HDMI1
Component In - Set it to Off since there is no Component cables.

Is this correct? If yes, would I be using "TV/SAT" button on my Pio remote for input switching? It would been nice to just use one HDMI button for swicthing between sources. I am guessing I'll map the XBOX to "DVR" or s'thing?

Digital In refers to the digital audio source you want to tie to this input, if any. Opt-1 means optical in-1. Coax is for coaxial digital connections. But, yup, you're on the right track.

Don't worry, Pioneer managed to write the most confusing and useless instruction manual for this receiver. It reads like a choose your own adventure novel. Go to Page XX which tells you to go to Page YY. It took me a couple of days to get my settings right, too. And I'm still not there yet.

Cheers.
post #1622 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklion View Post

"...we were blown away by the sound quality of the VSX-1019AH-K for a $500 receiver, despite our initial worries that it weighs significantly less than last year's VSX-1018AH-K. With no major shortcomings, outstanding sound quality and its unique iPod-friendly USB port, the VSX-1019AH-K is our top midrange AV receiver pick and thus earns the Editors' Choice award. "

http://reviews.cnet.com/av-receivers...ml?tag=nl.e404

Not surprising, the 919 and 1019 share the same Wolfson DAC's as the 1018 and Elite 01/03.
post #1623 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarsofwei View Post

Digital In refers to the digital audio source you want to tie to this input, if any. Opt-1 means optical in-1. Coax is for coaxial digital connections. But, yup, you're on the right track.

Don't worry, Pioneer managed to write the most confusing and useless instruction manual for this receiver. It reads like a choose your own adventure novel. Go to Page XX which tells you to go to Page YY. It took me a couple of days to get my settings right, too. And I'm still not there yet.

Cheers.

Indeed. Thx again!!
post #1624 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiny0011 View Post

Hi everyone it`s been awhile.I subscribe to home theater mag.they tested the 1019 in the october issue.They gave a positive review overall.The power ratings for 5 channels driven at 8 ohm load were 0.1% distortion 28.7 watts.At 1.0 % 34.3 watts. These ratings were for 5 channels, with a 6.1 or 7.1 system the power would be even less,seems like hk is the only one who rates their power output honestly.One thing i found out the other day is that each mcacc preset can have it`s own channel level setting, learn something new each day.Regards.

Just because the wattage numbers are very low it doesn't mean it can't sound good. Low output only means it will clip sooner than a amp with more power. In a small room with very efficient speakers and a good subwoofer it should do ok.
post #1625 of 5087
I have the 1019 AVR and I installed the ASUS Xonar HDAV Sound Card in my HTPC so I could finally "experience" lossless audio; BUT am here to ask YOU, IF I experienced it last night? This was my 1st attempt.
I got "Cloverfield" BD frm Netflix which offers TRUE HD, I am playing BDs thru Total Media Theater 3 [latest version].........The TMT3 program showed it in Blue Ray, and DolbyD, in lower left corner.....the 1019 DID NOT light up any different than usual........the 1019 showed it was playing in "DD PL2 Movie 5.1". When I pulled up the INFO option in TMT3 - it said it was in TRUE HD. I expected the 1019 to exhibit something more on it's screen indicating that the movie was bitstreaming into Lossless mode.
Please advise.........and

THANKS! michael
post #1626 of 5087
I understand that receiver settings vary depending on room size/speaker types etc etc...
But does anyone have a "general" recommended setting/best pratcices witht his receiver?

Ex: Cross over freq? Sub woofer volume level?

Also, anyone with an XBOX setup/media center? For whatever reasons, any music played via media center always defaults to Stereo. The normal Xbox ops is Digital, but for some reasons, my Media center doesn't seem to understand.

I could be missing some basic settings, but from what I can tell, on the XBOX media center piece, there is no option under Task->Settings->TV - setup speakers. This is available on my computer but not on XBOX!!

Appreciate your inputs.
post #1627 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post

I have the 1019 AVR and I installed the ASUS Xonar HDAV Sound Card in my HTPC so I could finally "experience" lossless audio; BUT am here to ask YOU, IF I experienced it last night? This was my 1st attempt.
I got "Cloverfield" BD frm Netflix which offers TRUE HD, I am playing BDs thru Total Media Theater 3 [latest version].........The TMT3 program showed it in Blue Ray, and DolbyD, in lower left corner.....the 1019 DID NOT light up any different than usual........the 1019 showed it was playing in "DD PL2 Movie 5.1". When I pulled up the INFO option in TMT3 - it said it was in TRUE HD. I expected the 1019 to exhibit something more on it's screen indicating that the movie was bitstreaming into Lossless mode.
Please advise.........and

THANKS! michael

Are your connections HDMI? If not, then the lossless bitstream signals won't get through and you'll be stepped down to the DD core. If the TMT3 program is showing DolbyD, isn't that the lossy DD core? This would show up correctly as DD PL2 Movie 5.1 in the receiver.

I would check these:
  1. HDMI connections for bitstream
  2. Make sure you have TrueHD selected from the "languages" section of the disk, TrueHD is not the default - this has to be chosen on every disk.
  3. Make sure bitstream is selected

Hopefully this gets you the lossless codec (same for DTS-HTMA). My initial mistake was not to select TrueHD from the Disk menu (usually from "languages"), since it defaults to DD. I am able to get to the lossless codecs from both HD-DVD and Bluray.
post #1628 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by primus_2001 View Post

I understand that receiver settings vary depending on room size/speaker types etc etc...
But does anyone have a "general" recommended setting/best pratcices witht his receiver?

Ex: Cross over freq? Sub woofer volume level?

Cross over is dictated by your speakers, their setup and the sub's capabilities. As an example, I have Energy RC-mini surrounds (80Hz to 23 KHz) and an old Panasonic sub (40Hz to 200 Hz), with a Mirage CC (70 Hz to 23 KHz). I ran MCACC, the suggested crossover was 80 Hz; after checking the Energy forums and the sub forums, I decided on a 100 Hz crossover.

It is highly dependent on your speakers, with MCACC as a great tool for setting things.

As for Sub volume level, there are a few places to set that. The sub volume dial that is actually on the sub should be set to about 50% of total volume. I have mine set to 45%. I let MCACC do its stuff and followed that.
post #1629 of 5087
My apologies if this has been posted, but I can't seem to find an answer.

I have a DirecTV receiver connected to the Pioneer VSX1019 via HDMI and the sound is great, EXCEPT there is significant 'distortion' when a commercial comes on during a digital broadcast that is in Stereo. I see the receiver switch to STEREO and the sound is garbled to the point that it sounds like blown speakers, but as soon as it comes back to Dolby Digital (either a DD commercial or the original program) the sound is crystal clear.

Any idea how to fix it?

Any advice appreciated. I likewise have an issue with the Harmony One getting the receiver turned on in the right sequence.
post #1630 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Cross over is dictated by your speakers, their setup and the sub's capabilities. As an example, I have Energy RC-mini surrounds (80Hz to 23 KHz) and an old Panasonic sub (40Hz to 200 Hz), with a Mirage CC (70 Hz to 23 KHz). I ran MCACC, the suggested crossover was 80 Hz; after checking the Energy forums and the sub forums, I decided on a 100 Hz crossover.

It is highly dependent on your speakers, with MCACC as a great tool for setting things.

As for Sub volume level, there are a few places to set that. The sub volume dial that is actually on the sub should be set to about 50% of total volume. I have mine set to 45%. I let MCACC do its stuff and followed that.

Thx Hernanu. I have Energy Take Classic 5.0 + Premier acoustics (PA-120). I had to set the Sub volume to a little less than max to really feel the Sub. Will try and run the MCACC again, but again, wa shoping to find some gerenral recomendations. Thx!
post #1631 of 5087
Hey guys, I have another question regarding my setup when watching DVDs.

Samsung PN50A450
Pioneer VSX-919
Samsung HD960 DVD Player
SA 8300HD PVR
Harmony One Remote

The PVR, DVD are connected via HDMI to the receiver
The receiver is connected via HDMI to the TV

Kurolink and Anynet are off

I have setup the remote so that HDMI1 Input is used for TV and DVD watching.

During a movie, the picture cuts out for a second and then comes back on. The sound is still present. This happens every so often. HDMI handshaking issue?!
post #1632 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sport73 View Post

My apologies if this has been posted, but I can't seem to find an answer.

I have a DirecTV receiver connected to the Pioneer VSX1019 via HDMI and the sound is great, EXCEPT there is significant 'distortion' when a commercial comes on during a digital broadcast that is in Stereo. I see the receiver switch to STEREO and the sound is garbled to the point that it sounds like blown speakers, but as soon as it comes back to Dolby Digital (either a DD commercial or the original program) the sound is crystal clear.

Any idea how to fix it?

IIRC, there's an input attenuation setting on the reciever. Have you tried that? (you may need to compensate by turning up the master volume)
post #1633 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post

I have the 1019 AVR and I installed the ASUS Xonar HDAV Sound Card in my HTPC so I could finally "experience" lossless audio; BUT am here to ask YOU, IF I experienced it last night? This was my 1st attempt.
I got "Cloverfield" BD frm Netflix which offers TRUE HD, I am playing BDs thru Total Media Theater 3 [latest version].........The TMT3 program showed it in Blue Ray, and DolbyD, in lower left corner.....the 1019 DID NOT light up any different than usual........the 1019 showed it was playing in "DD PL2 Movie 5.1". When I pulled up the INFO option in TMT3 - it said it was in TRUE HD. I expected the 1019 to exhibit something more on it's screen indicating that the movie was bitstreaming into Lossless mode.
Please advise.........and

THANKS! michael

ensure that the avr is set to "direct" and not "auto surround"...
post #1634 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by primus_2001 View Post

Thx Hernanu. I have Energy Take Classic 5.0 + Premier acoustics (PA-120). I had to set the Sub volume to a little less than max to really feel the Sub. Will try and run the MCACC again, but again, wa shoping to find some gerenral recomendations. Thx!

Nice setup, the sub in particular should be able to impress you more, since it's a 200 W RMS 12 inch sub.

Your Take Classics have a 115 Hz to 20K+ range, and given the 24 Hz - 180 Hz range of the sub, I'd set the crossover to 150 Hz, avoiding any dip due to the rolloff in frequency response on the takes at the 115 - 150 area. Let the (very capable) sub handle up to 150 and have a pretty seamless handover to the takes from there on.

As to why the sub is not as responsive, make sure your takes are all set as small speakers. This will make it the responsibility of the sub to handle the low range, without the takes involved. I'd start with the PA-120 at 45% volume on the sub itself, run MCACC and again - make sure the speakers are small. The PA-120 should be pretty evident without setting the sub volume to max.

If the sub is till having issues, I'd do the sub crawl thing and move the sub around, you may have it on a dead spot. Since it is going to handle some dialogue at those settings, it may be better to have it near the front speaker area to give you better results. Check the PA-120 thread in the sub forum for much more informed advice.
post #1635 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Nice setup, the sub in particular should be able to impress you more, since it's a 200 W RMS 12 inch sub.

Your Take Classics have a 115 Hz to 20K+ range, and given the 24 Hz - 180 Hz range of the sub, I'd set the crossover to 150 Hz, avoiding any dip due to the rolloff in frequency response on the takes at the 115 - 150 area. Let the (very capable) sub handle up to 150 and have a pretty seamless handover to the takes from there on.

As to why the sub is not as responsive, make sure your takes are all set as small speakers. This will make it the responsibility of the sub to handle the low range, without the takes involved. I'd start with the PA-120 at 45% volume on the sub itself, run MCACC and again - make sure the speakers are small. The PA-120 should be pretty evident without setting the sub volume to max.

If the sub is till having issues, I'd do the sub crawl thing and move the sub around, you may have it on a dead spot. Since it is going to handle some dialogue at those settings, it may be better to have it near the front speaker area to give you better results. Check the PA-120 thread in the sub forum for much more informed advice.

Much appreciated Hernanu. I didn't get a whole time to play with this, but just by setting the freq to 150 seems to already make a huge difference. I made sure that the speakers are set to small. Will try some of you recommendations and reply back.

Thx again!
post #1636 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoviceARS View Post

Hey guys, I have another question regarding my setup when watching DVDs.

Samsung PN50A450
Pioneer VSX-919
Samsung HD960 DVD Player
SA 8300HD PVR
Harmony One Remote

The PVR, DVD are connected via HDMI to the receiver
The receiver is connected via HDMI to the TV

Kurolink and Anynet are off

I have setup the remote so that HDMI1 Input is used for TV and DVD watching.

During a movie, the picture cuts out for a second and then comes back on. The sound is still present. This happens every so often. HDMI handshaking issue?!

NoviceARS, I have the same problem with my Comcast DVR. I haven't been able to figure it out at all. Does anyone know what's causing this? It's rather annoying.
post #1637 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Are your connections HDMI? If not, then the lossless bitstream signals won't get through and you'll be stepped down to the DD core. If the TMT3 program is showing DolbyD, isn't that the lossy DD core? This would show up correctly as DD PL2 Movie 5.1 in the receiver.

I would check these:
  1. HDMI connections for bitstream
  2. Make sure you have TrueHD selected from the "languages" section of the disk, TrueHD is not the default - this has to be chosen on every disk.
  3. Make sure bitstream is selected

Hopefully this gets you the lossless codec (same for DTS-HTMA). My initial mistake was not to select TrueHD from the Disk menu (usually from "languages"), since it defaults to DD. I am able to get to the lossless codecs from both HD-DVD and Bluray.

THANKS for your helpful response; A] It did show up as in Dolby D. on TMT3 GUI; and as DD PL2 Movie 5.1 on AVR screen.....I did not know that this meant that it was playing in TRUE HD 5.1. I expected, "bells and whistles and/or more Blue Light at least" to indicate hey bud, "YOU hit the Jackpot!" Hee Hee!
B] I am using HDMI connections and YES, I did select True HD from Disc Options under Languages; BUT where oh where do you select Bitstream???
C] I guess I was hearing it in TRUE HD.....which was GOOD but could not really tell that much difference to tell the truth.

TKS michael
post #1638 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

ensure that the avr is set to "direct" and not "auto surround"...

So you are saying......choose/select the Option, "TRUE HD", then hit the "HDD" button on our remote until it selects "DIRECT" - and that will give one bitstreamed HD Surround Sound?

TKS michael
post #1639 of 5087
919 is back in stock at newegg.
post #1640 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post

So you are saying......choose/select the Option, "TRUE HD", then hit the "HDD" button on our remote until it selects "DIRECT" - and that will give one bitstreamed HD Surround Sound?

TKS michael

You are correct in saying that if the receiver is set to Direct mode, and your source is bitstreaming TrueHD, then you will be hearing the HD audio and your receiver will display "Dolby TrueHD". However, when the receiver displays "DD PLIIx Movie" it is not receiving a TrueHD signal. It is receiving a Dolby Digital signal and applying Pro Logic IIx processing to that signal to matrix (if necessary) the surround and surround back channels, along with a little extra Pro Logic Movie-mode magic.

Bitstreaming is determined at the source, not at the receiver. So by your description, it sounds like something with the sound card is not set up correctly because the 1019 is receiving a Dolby Digital signal, not TrueHD. If the Blu-ray is set to the TrueHD audio format (as you've stated), I would go back to the sound card's settings to make sure everything there is set up correctly.
post #1641 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by jarsofwei View Post

NoviceARS, I have the same problem with my Comcast DVR. I haven't been able to figure it out at all. Does anyone know what's causing this? It's rather annoying.

Jarasofwei,

I'm been doing some reading and it looks to be the Samsung 960 causing all the problems. There is no apparent fix...oh well, time to get a Blu-ray?
post #1642 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoviceARS View Post

Jarasofwei,

I'm been doing some reading and it looks to be the Samsung 960 causing all the problems. There is no apparent fix...oh well, time to get a Blu-ray?

Interesting. I'm switching TVs from a Samung LN52B750 to a Panasonic TCP54V10 soon. I wonder if Samsung's HDMI handshake is causing the problem. Curious.

For the record, this occurs probably less frequently than once a day so it's not a showstopper for me.. but definitely annoying.
post #1643 of 5087
Hello All... This has probably been answered somewhere in here, but I can't seem to find it... When I connect my LG BD390 blu ray player to the 1019 via HDMI and out HDMI to my Panny V10, I get picture but the sound is gone on the TV. The TV is not muted. When I go into the Audio Settings, the HDMI entry is not there... Almost like it has been skipped over because I have some other setting wrong (?). I would like to set it to "Through" and not "Amplifier"... I seem to have something either set wrong or connected wrong, I think...

Help!!!!
post #1644 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnkgill View Post

Hello All... This has probably been answered somewhere in here, but I can't seem to find it... When I connect my LG BD390 blu ray player to the 1019 via HDMI and out HDMI to my Panny V10, I get picture but the sound is gone on the TV. The TV is not muted. When I go into the Audio Settings, the HDMI entry is not there... Almost like it has been skipped over because I have some other setting wrong (?). I would like to set it to "Through" and not "Amplifier"... I seem to have something either set wrong or connected wrong, I think...

Help!!!!

Look on page 66, footnote g:

g. HDMI Audio setting cannot be switched while performing synchronized amp mode operations.

In other words, you have to turn off Kuro Link in order to do HDMI Audio pass-through.
post #1645 of 5087
Is Kuro Link enabled by default???? I didn't turn this function on....
post #1646 of 5087
My VSX-1019AHK arrived today and it doesn't fit into a cabinet by about half an inch. Did anybody try using it without legs just sitting on its belly? Or is it going to cause major heating problems? What are the alternatives to those legs where can I buy them?

Thanks,
post #1647 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pechkin View Post

My VSX-1019AHK arrived today and it doesn't fit into a cabinet by about half an inch. Did anybody try using it without legs just sitting on its belly? Or is it going to cause major heating problems? What are the alternatives to those legs where can I buy them?

Thanks,

Being on it's belly probably won't cause an issue (I'm not home to confirm this) but it also means you have little to no clearance for the top to vent if you were to slide it in without the feet. Unfortunately I'd say a new cabinet is in your future.
post #1648 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnkgill View Post

Is Kuro Link enabled by default???? I didn't turn this function on....

Yes, annoyingly, it is. I can't remember how to turn it off. I think it's somewhere in the GUI settings [Receiver + Home], but I remember it being relatively easy to find the setting in the manual.

This has been said a million times before. This is a nice receiver for sure, but the set up is more than a pain, esp. with such a terrible manual.
post #1649 of 5087
Quote:
Originally Posted by DAC21 View Post

Being on it's belly probably won't cause an issue (I'm not home to confirm this) but it also means you have little to no clearance for the top to vent if you were to slide it in without the feet. Unfortunately I'd say a new cabinet is in your future.


Thanks DAC21, I was afraid so. You are right there is may be half an inch between the top of the receiver and the cabinet, and even if I'll find smaller legs it will be even less. And I don't think that even an external fan would help.... oh, well....
post #1650 of 5087
Pechkin -- If you read the manual, it tells you how much clearance you need at the top of the 1019 (it's around 8" minimum, IIRC). If you don't allow enough air space on top of the AVR, it will overheat and shut itself down.
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