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The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1019AH Owner's Thread - Page 65

post #1921 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by d34dl1n3r View Post

Question...

Are the Elite SC-25/SC-27 actually 140Wx7 and 140Wx2 as advertised? Or are they the same as with the 910 and 1019 where they are listed as 120Wx7 but are only 90Wx2 and whatever they are with all channels driven?

The amps in those receivers are a big step up from what's in the 919/1019... if I were staying with Pioneer, those receivers are the ones I'd be looking at. But I can't afford those, so I'm probably not going Pioneer next time.

After my last post, I decided enough was enough - I wanted to see where my home theater's limits were. I still hadn't tested the IXL to reference level, so with the knowledge I had the LFE boosted by 5dB I ran the receiver up to -5dB and let it have some test tones between 10Hz and 20Hz.

As soon as I started testing, the receiver's fan came on. This was in stereo - I haven't gotten around to trying the full 7.1 at this level yet. The IXL did fine... no signs of distress. The 919 didn't shut down. But the fan did not stop until well after I did. I had to stop when I detected the smell of voice coils getting too hot, and then I realized - my left and right mains were also getting these test tones. It was from them the smell was coming. So, it looks like the 919 can indeed get powerful enough for my speakers in stereo mode.

But, the receiver fan ran a long time, even with the two 140's on top turned on. And I still wasn't at 0dB on the mains. It did ok in stereo, but I still feel like it would fall on its face if I let it run all the way up to 0dB in 7.1 mode. So, I set all main channels back to small with the crossover at 50Hz. Best to offload some of the power demands to the subwoofer in my system. At least, that will keep the fan quieter.
post #1922 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by d34dl1n3r View Post

Question...

Are the Elite SC-25/SC-27 actually 140Wx7 and 140Wx2 as advertised? Or are they the same as with the 910 and 1019 where they are listed as 120Wx7 but are only 90Wx2 and whatever they are with all channels driven?

bench test results from the sc-05...

clicky

best we can tell, the amplification section is unchanged from last year's models to this, so you can make an assumption that the 25 will be the same...
post #1923 of 5121
I'm having a big issue with my receiver and I'm hoping someone can help. I CANNOT switch between HDMI inputs using my Harmony One remote with any consistency...

I have the following ALL connected via HDMI; Kuro-Link OFF and the HDMI inputs reassigned, and I'm controlling the unit/setup with a HARMONY ONE remote:

DirecTV HD-DVR HR-20
XBox 360
PS3
Apple TV

Connected to Sony SXRD 60"

I cannot switch between inputs with any regularity of success. If I use the 360 and switch back to DirecTV, I get no picture or sound until a cycle the inputs (sometimes a few times) and successfully create an HDMI-handshake. Same thing applies with virtually all of the inputs; things don't come through even though the Receiver is set to the correct input until/unless I cycle inputs. This is VERY annoying and has the wife complaining.

Please advise if you've seen something similar.
post #1924 of 5121
I'm finishing up my setup for the VSX-101AH and I just noticed that MCACC set the cross over to 80 for my Quintet III , which are rated at 120. Now their isn't a setting for 120 so it's either 80 or 100. Any thoughts? I going to play around with both settings and see if I can hear a differences.
post #1925 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sport73 View Post

I'm having a big issue with my receiver and I'm hoping someone can help. I CANNOT switch between HDMI inputs using my Harmony One remote with any consistency...

I have the following ALL connected via HDMI; Kuro-Link OFF and the HDMI inputs reassigned, and I'm controlling the unit/setup with a HARMONY ONE remote:

DirecTV HD-DVR HR-20
XBox 360
PS3
Apple TV

Connected to Sony SXRD 60"

I cannot switch between inputs with any regularity of success. If I use the 360 and switch back to DirecTV, I get no picture or sound until a cycle the inputs (sometimes a few times) and successfully create an HDMI-handshake. Same thing applies with virtually all of the inputs; things don't come through even though the Receiver is set to the correct input until/unless I cycle inputs. This is VERY annoying and has the wife complaining.

Please advise if you've seen something similar.

Did you set the Harmony One to "there's a button press for each input" or "you have one button to cycle through all inputs"? Use the former and you shouldn't have any problems. For some odd reason even though there's no MULTI CH IN button on the receiver's remote, the Harmony One has a "InputMulti" button it functions as if I had programmed a MULTI CH IN button from my receiver remote to the Harmony One.

Here's my stuff:
1. Oppo 83 set to BD
2. HTPC set to DVD renamed to "Computer" with HDMI assigned to HDMI3
3. DirecTV HD DVR set to TV/SAT with HDMI assigned to HDMI1
4. Oppo 83's analog 5.1/7.1 set to Multi Ch In
5. Rotel CD player connected and set to CD.

When I programmed the remote I set input selection to "each input has its own button" and typed in all the available inputs. You might run into issues if you have things connected to HDMI's and did not assign the inputs to other names that have a button available to go direct to it. The HDMI1 through HDMI3 can only be accessed via the HDMI button and it has to be pressed to cycle through each HDMI. This causes problems so I assigned the HDMI inputs to other names.

Hope this helps.
post #1926 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadMF222 View Post

So here is what I wrote to Pioneer, and what their response was concerning the power issue:


Inquiry Type:Warranty and Service Issues
lstPublishers:0001
lstTitles:A00001
Inquiry:It seems there is a general issue with the new receivers that Pioneer has put out, specifically the VSX-1019AH and the one I own, the Elite VSX-21TXH. For whatever reason, whenever the receiver has either been powered on or off for some time, it will not respond to power commands from any remote, be it the factory remote that comes with it or any universal remote such as the Harmony One from Logitech which I own. If you search all of the forum databases online for these two specific models of Pioneer, you will see many have this power issue. For some of us, the only way to remedy this power glitch is to turn KURO LINK on. Unfortunately, this is not the recommended setting to use if you do not own a piece of equipment with KURO LINK capabilities. That has somewhat fixed the power issue for some people, but it also disables certain capabilities that are needed in order to assign functions to the HDMI inputs. I have read several disappointing results when customers
have tried to contact Pioneer support on this issue. I, along with many owners of these Pioneer receivers, would appreciate a response on this issue. Many are contemplating returning their purchase and going with another brand because of this problem, as I am sure you can understand how frustrating it could be to have this power issue. Your response would be greatly appreciated, as I would really hate to return what is otherwise a great receiver and go with a different brand. Thank you.


The Response:


Thank you for contacting Pioneer Electronics, Inc.
I'm sorry to hear the problem you are having with the receiver.
We have reported this issue to our engineers and they are currently working to provide a resolution to the problem.
Please make sure you have registered your unit, you will receive notification when the correction is announced.

Thank You,

Pioneer Support Group

Wow, that's more than I got in response - thanks for sharing! At least it proves that we're not all crazy and they've registered this issue internally. I've just ended up turning on the Kurolink, HDMI to the TV and going coaxial to the AVR. At least now I have a spare HDMI port. I haven't had a powerup problem since. I suspect that we'll still have to bring it in to a service depot if this firmware does eventually materialize. At least then it will be worth it the headache of ripping the 'brain' out of the home theatre.
post #1927 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugie View Post

Wow, that's more than I got in response - thanks for sharing! At least it proves that we're not all crazy and they've registered this issue internally. I've just ended up turning on the Kurolink, HDMI to the TV and going coaxial to the AVR. At least now I have a spare HDMI port. I haven't had a powerup problem since. I suspect that we'll still have to bring it in to a service depot if this firmware does eventually materialize. At least then it will be worth it the headache of ripping the 'brain' out of the home theatre.

Yeah, I hear you Lugie. It just stinks we had to turn on the Kuro Link to remedy the issue for now. For some people that will cause a lot of problems. Let's see if I hear anything else from Pioneer after this. I'm still debating returning the receiver because the issue itself is a bit scary. How they could let something like this slip by on multiple models of receivers is beyond me.
post #1928 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by wagswvu View Post

I'm finishing up my setup for the VSX-101AH and I just noticed that MCACC set the cross over to 80 for my Quintet III , which are rated at 120. Now their isn't a setting for 120 so it's either 80 or 100. Any thoughts? I going to play around with both settings and see if I can hear a differences.

If they're rated at 120, then I'd cross them over at 150 (that's available). The MCACC rating of 80 is too low, you'll lose some signal that way. I assume your sub can handle up to 150?

It's important to tune your sub correctly at that high a crossover, so make sure you re-run MCACC keeping the crossover. Make sure your sub power setting (on the back of the sub) is "ON" not on AUTO when you run MCACC. You can set it back to AUTO after the calibration is done.
post #1929 of 5121
I know this has been covered many times before but some feedback to my situation would be appreciated. I recently purchased the 1019 and speakers for my living room and outside (zone 2 from the surround back). For my front and center speakers I purchased Yamaha speakers that are rated for 6 ohms. I wasn't aware of the whole ohm question until it was pointed out to me in the Pioneer manual.

I've read posts that say don't worry leave the receiver set to 8. Others have warned of damaging the receiver by not setting it to 6. Being the cautious fellow I am I set the receiver to 6. BTW my ceiling and outdoor speakers are rated for 8.

I have experimented with listening levels louder than I would ever normally use and it sounds great set at 6. But because the manual says "We recommend speakers with an 8 ohm rating", I wonder am I missing out on something performance wise by not leaving it at 8? I did experiment with it set at 8 very briefly and couldn't tell a difference. Though I've only had it set up since yesterday and haven't completely put it through its paces.

BTW the Yamahas are 6 ohms with sensitivity of 86 dB/2.83 V/1 m.

Thanks for any feedback! Sorry for the long post.

Keenan
post #1930 of 5121
Hello,

I just picked up a 1019 and have everything working except for digital (optical) sound with my laptop.

I am trying to hook my Macbook Pro to the receiver via a TOS link cable.

The MBP seems to be outputting the sound because I can see the red light at the other end of the cable.

However, I've tried both Opt1 and Opt2 and changed some inputs through the menu but have had no success.

Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks in advance.
post #1931 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkoplien View Post

I know this has been covered many times before but some feedback to my situation would be appreciated. I recently purchased the 1019 and speakers for my living room and outside (zone 2 from the surround back). For my front and center speakers I purchased Yamaha speakers that are rated for 6 ohms. I wasn't aware of the whole ohm question until it was pointed out to me in the Pioneer manual.

I've read posts that say don't worry leave the receiver set to 8. Others have warned of damaging the receiver by not setting it to 6. Being the cautious fellow I am I set the receiver to 6. BTW my ceiling and outdoor speakers are rated for 8.

I have experimented with listening levels louder than I would ever normally use and it sounds great set at 6. But because the manual says "We recommend speakers with an 8 ohm rating", I wonder am I missing out on something performance wise by not leaving it at 8? I did experiment with it set at 8 very briefly and couldn't tell a difference. Though I've only had it set up since yesterday and haven't completely put it through its paces.

BTW the Yamahas are 6 ohms with sensitivity of 86 dB/2.83 V/1 m.

Thanks for any feedback! Sorry for the long post.

Keenan

leave it at 8 unless you are experiencing thermal shutdown...

to keep it simple, switching the ohm setting to 6 from 8 limits the rail voltage, and yes, it impacts performance...
post #1932 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by suffah View Post

Hello,

I just picked up a 1019 and have everything working except for digital (optical) sound with my laptop.

I am trying to hook my Macbook Pro to the receiver via a TOS link cable.

The MBP seems to be outputting the sound because I can see the red light at the other end of the cable.

However, I've tried both Opt1 and Opt2 and changed some inputs through the menu but have had no success.

Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks in advance.

you should be able to do this... the avr doesn't "know" its a mbp on the other end...

- ensure that the input you are selecting has the correct optical port assigned to it... see page 40 of the manual for which inputs the optical ports can be assigned to...

- what format are you trying to send? keep in mind that the avr cannot decode aac (amoungst other things)...
post #1933 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

leave it at 8 unless you are experiencing thermal shutdown...

to keep it simple, switching the ohm setting to 6 from 8 limits the rail voltage, and yes, it impacts performance...

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was leaning toward. Just needed some reassurance.
post #1934 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by suffah View Post

Hello,

I just picked up a 1019 and have everything working except for digital (optical) sound with my laptop.

I am trying to hook my Macbook Pro to the receiver via a TOS link cable.

The MBP seems to be outputting the sound because I can see the red light at the other end of the cable.

However, I've tried both Opt1 and Opt2 and changed some inputs through the menu but have had no success.

Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks in advance.

How do you have the video attached?
If it's HDMI, you'll have to cycle the remote "Signal Sel" to Digital for your toslink
see page 58 of your manual, Choosing the input signal.
post #1935 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

If they're rated at 120, then I'd cross them over at 150 (that's available). The MCACC rating of 80 is too low, you'll lose some signal that way. I assume your sub can handle up to 150?

It's important to tune your sub correctly at that high a crossover, so make sure you re-run MCACC keeping the crossover. Make sure your sub power setting (on the back of the sub) is "ON" not on AUTO when you run MCACC. You can set it back to AUTO after the calibration is done.

I have the Synergy Sub-10, which matches my Quintet III, and it's only adjustable from 40 to 120. So if I set the speaker cross to 150 would I loose signals on the woofer side?
post #1936 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by wagswvu View Post

I have the Synergy Sub-10, which matches my Quintet III, and it's only adjustable from 40 to 120. So if I set the speaker cross to 150 would I loose signals on the woofer side?

So that gives you a range of about 20 Hz where the signal is weaker if you do a crossover at 100 Hz, or a range of about 30 Hz if you cross over at 150 Hz. It would probably be better if there were a 120 Hz crossover, but even then it's pushing it a bit, since it's better to have some leeway to cross over before you hit the rolloff frequencies (120 in both cases).

Hard to say which would be best - maybe 100, so you can get the most from your speakers.
post #1937 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

- what format are you trying to send? keep in mind that the avr cannot decode aac (amoungst other things)...

I plan on setting up my receiver next week. Currently I have an optical cable running from my computer to my current receiver so I can play Itunes throughout the house. Will the 919 not play this?
post #1938 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadMF222 View Post

Yeah, I hear you Lugie. It just stinks we had to turn on the Kuro Link to remedy the issue for now. For some people that will cause a lot of problems. Let's see if I hear anything else from Pioneer after this. I'm still debating returning the receiver because the issue itself is a bit scary. How they could let something like this slip by on multiple models of receivers is beyond me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugie View Post

Is anyone still having problems using the remote to powerup the receiver? I get this issue here and there. Pioneer wants me to bring it in for service but that is a pain and I don't know if they can fix an intermitant problem like this. Are newer units OK? does anyone know of a firmware upgrade that solves this?

Yes guys my KURO link off! as using HDMI & optical feed from my Bell satt. rcvr.. My 1019 is about 2 months old & still from time to time refuses to power up from OEM remote or Harmony 1.
The first 1019 I picked up started to balk at power up, so took it back to store, they supplied me with a new second unit...same intermittent power up problem with 2nd unit. Funny; neither, ever failed to power off!

I suspect IMHO that with out a doubt it is a software/firmware problem, I would also suggest that there are many more owners that have the same problem but simply haven't posted or don't even know about this forum..I'm a prime example as it's taken me 2 months to come forward & post..
I do hope Pioneer supplies us with a fix to this design/software problem..some how I am doubtful!

I do like the unit otherwise; but if it won't do the first & most basic function of turning on, with it's supplied remote (or anybody elses) all the rest becomes a moot point!!!
Please keep us informed guys if any fix comes forward.
Russ.R
post #1939 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ.R View Post

Yes guys my KURO link off! as using HDMI & optical feed from my Bell satt. rcvr.. My 1019 is about 2 months old & still from time to time refuses to power up from OEM remote or Harmony 1.
The first 1019 I picked up started to balk at power up, so took it back to store, they supplied me with a new second unit...same intermittent power up problem with 2nd unit. Funny; neither, ever failed to power off!

I suspect IMHO that with out a doubt it is a software/firmware problem, I would also suggest that there are many more owners that have the same problem but simply haven't posted or don't even know about this forum..I'm a prime example as it's taken me 2 months to come forward & post..
I do hope Pioneer supplies us with a fix to this design/software problem..some how I am doubtful!

I do like the unit otherwise; but if it won't do the first & most basic function of turning on, with it's supplied remote (or anybody elses) all the rest becomes a moot point!!!
Please keep us informed guys if any fix comes forward.
Russ.R

I recently bought a 1019 a week ago, and I have not had any issues with using the supplied remote or my harmony one to power on the device or control it.

This might seem strange, however at the time I also bought a Samsung LN40B640 LCD TV and after a few days I started noticing that my TiVo wouldn't respond to my remotes, supplied or harmony one, every once in a while. Long story short, I found that the backlight in LCD TV, mostly newer ones, can cause IR interference which was stopping my Tivo from receiving the IR commands. My solution was to turn the backlight energy saver function off and turn the backlight settings above 6, I don't understand but lower backlight settings cause more interference. So far everything seem to be working fine. If nothing else you might want to look into this.
post #1940 of 5121
OK, I think I may be confusing myself a bit. I'm planning on hooking up the 919 next week, but am a little concerned about a few things I'm reading in the thread. I have my computer hooked up to my current avr via optical cable so I can play my entire Itunes library throughout the house.

I'm a little confused on Speaker B/Zone 2. Will I be able to hook the optical cable from my PC to the 919 and play sound to Speaker B (which I have run outside off my current avr). I'm not concerned about watching a movie in the main room and listening to something else in the 2nd room. I just want to be able to switch the 919 to Speaker B and listen to Itunes in the other room.

I'm now reading that this doesn't support AAC ( I do believe that Itunes is in that format) but I find it hard to believe that it won't play over the optical cable (my 10 yr old avr now plays it fine).

I'm afraid this could sway my decision to hook this up as we always have music on using speaker b now.

Thanks so much for the help!
post #1941 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by wagswvu View Post

I recently bought a 1019 a week ago, and I have not had any issues with using the supplied remote or my harmony one to power on the device or control it.

This might seem strange, however at the time I also bought a Samsung LN40B640 LCD TV and after a few days I started noticing that my TiVo wouldn't respond to my remotes, supplied or harmony one, every once in a while. Long story short, I found that the backlight in LCD TV, mostly newer ones, can cause IR interference which was stopping my Tivo from receiving the IR commands. My solution was to turn the backlight energy saver function off and turn the backlight settings above 6, I don't understand but lower backlight settings cause more interference. So far everything seem to be working fine. If nothing else you might want to look into this.

That could be playing into this, here's a previous response that I wrote about this (don't want to duplicate a long response):

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17183842

short version: our display screens can interfere with operation of IR remotes, particularly when energy saving mode is enabled. It could be fixed by disabling this, or by judicious use of masking tape over the IR receiver on the 1019 / 919.
post #1942 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddysnake View Post

OK, I think I may be confusing myself a bit. I'm planning on hooking up the 919 next week, but am a little concerned about a few things I'm reading in the thread. I have my computer hooked up to my current avr via optical cable so I can play my entire Itunes library throughout the house.

I'm a little confused on Speaker B/Zone 2. Will I be able to hook the optical cable from my PC to the 919 and play sound to Speaker B (which I have run outside off my current avr). I'm not concerned about watching a movie in the main room and listening to something else in the 2nd room. I just want to be able to switch the 919 to Speaker B and listen to Itunes in the other room.

I'm now reading that this doesn't support AAC ( I do believe that Itunes is in that format) but I find it hard to believe that it won't play over the optical cable (my 10 yr old avr now plays it fine).

I'm afraid this could sway my decision to hook this up as we always have music on using speaker b now.

Thanks so much for the help!

On both the 919 and 1019, you can listen to the same music on the main area and in another area from all sources if you have the speakers set up as SPEAKER B. This will only work if you select the SPEAKER A+B configuration (See Pg. 69 in the manual).

You will get the full 5.1 sound in the main area (SPEAKER A) and a downmixed stereo version of the sound in the SPEAKER B area.

In any other configuration, you won't be able to hear multichannel sound to the secondary area, for example: if you have only SPEAKER B selected, you won't hear multichannel sources. You can hear any stereo sources, though.

If you set up a ZONE 2 connection, on the 919 you will only be able to hear stereo sources, no digital inputs (HDMI, optical) - and no USB, iPod. You will be able to hear stereo sources if connected to stereo inputs.
post #1943 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

If you set up a ZONE 2 connection, on the 919 you will only be able to hear stereo sources, no digital inputs (HDMI, optical) - and no USB, iPod. You will be able to hear stereo sources if connected to stereo inputs.

brillaint, thanks Hernanu. I think I was confusing Zone 2 and Speaker B. So it sounds like the AVR will decode my itunes via optical cable from my PC, but just not through Zone 2 setup. I have the AVR waiting for me to hook up next week at home, and I'm just trying to prepare myself early, I guess I'm a little excited, so I'm asking my problems in advance!
post #1944 of 5121
hernanu,

Can the Speaker B or Zone 2 capability be used to boost the center channel volume? Or is there a pre-out for the center channel on the 1019?

Is there any way to connect a stereo amplifier to the 1019 in order to boost the center channel only?

Is it at all possible to use two (2) center channel speakers with the 1019?

I'm still not happy with my center channel volume. I like it very, very loud, (extremely loud indeed) for movies.
post #1945 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklion View Post

hernanu,

Can the Speaker B or Zone 2 capability be used to boost the center channel volume? Or is there a pre-out for the center channel on the 1019?

Is there any way to connect a stereo amplifier to the 1019 in order to boost the center channel only?

Is it at all possible to use two (2) center channel speakers with the 1019?

I'm still not happy with my center channel volume. I like it very, very loud, (extremely loud indeed) for movies.

Couldn't you just boost the dB at the receiver for center channel? if putting that all the way up doesn't get it loud enough for you maybe you need a new center channel or the connection is wrong.
post #1946 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklion View Post

hernanu,

Can the Speaker B or Zone 2 capability be used to boost the center channel volume? Or is there a pre-out for the center channel on the 1019?

Is there any way to connect a stereo amplifier to the 1019 in order to boost the center channel only?

Is it at all possible to use two (2) center channel speakers with the 1019?

I'm still not happy with my center channel volume. I like it very, very loud, (extremely loud indeed) for movies.

No pre-out for the center channel; you might think about replacing your center with a full sized speaker which matches your fronts, if you are really dissatisfied with your center. Maybe the center is damaged?

If not, I would try changing your equalization settings from the Advanced MCACC settings (Pg. 85). I'm assuming you want human dialog, soundtracks more emphasized, so you might want to increase the important areas for that:

500Hz - up slightly, increase 2K, 4K in particular. I would think you'd want to leave 63Hz and 125Hz alone, since the sub should be producing some pretty good powerful bass on its own.

Here's a great, well explained reference for mapping sounds we're interested in to frequency bands:

http://www.dplay.com/tutorial/bands/index.html
post #1947 of 5121
Hi Everyone,

I'm working through dialing in my new vsx-1019. So far it seems to work and sound great. However I've noticed something odd when playing music from my ipod using the ipod/USB cable. Certain tracks have audible distortion or static - almost like a fuzzy radio station. Other sources (cd, blue ray, dvd) sound perfect. And it is only certain tracks/albums on the ipod that do this.

I haven't determined with cerntainty yet - but it seems that the music that sounds good is music that I have imported from cd's (mp3). It's seems like itunes music (aac?) is what plays distorted.

Anyone heard of this or have any thoughts?

Thanks,
Keenan
post #1948 of 5121
Overheard at BestBuy: A blue shirt talking to a customer who was interested in the 1019. "The 1019 isn't very good because it doesn't decode audio over HDMI." Blue-shirt points to the 819: "This one does: you can tell because it says (on a sticker) DTS-HD Master Audio. If it doesn't say that, it doesn't decode audio over HDMI. The 1019 is only more expensive because it is more powerful. You should look at this Yamaha. For only a few dollars more it decodes audio over HDMI, see the sticker, and has FOUR HDMI inputs instead of three. Also, you can buy an optional iPod dock." Customer question: doesn't the 1019 connect to the iPhone using a cable?. Blue shirt: "Yes, but its not as good as a dock. It's more like a headphone connection."

I was tempted to step in and tell the blue-shirt that he ought to actually read the material on the items he is selling. But then I remembered that I'm Canadian, and far too polite.
post #1949 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Abulia View Post

Overheard at BestBuy: A blue shirt talking to a customer who was interested in the 1019. "The 1019 isn't very good because it doesn't decode audio over HDMI." Blue-shirt points to the 819: "This one does: you can tell because it says (on a sticker) DTS-HD Master Audio. If it doesn't say that, it doesn't decode audio over HDMI. The 1019 is only more expensive because it is more powerful. You should look at this Yamaha. For only a few dollars more it decodes audio over HDMI, see the sticker, and has FOUR HDMI inputs instead of three. Also, you can buy an optional iPod dock." Customer question: doesn't the 1019 connect to the iPhone using a cable?. Blue shirt: "Yes, but its not as good as a dock. It's more like a headphone connection."

I was tempted to step in and tell the blue-shirt that he ought to actually read the material on the items he is selling. But then I remembered that I'm Canadian, and far too polite.

Then politely tell the blue-shirt he's got his information backwards, otherwise you're not being polite to the customer who's receiving bad info from the blue shirt.
post #1950 of 5121
Hi i'm new in this forum and i'm choosing a good receiver for my 15 mq room. My speakers are IL 5.02, C.4 and Bose interaudio.

these the specs must have:

- warm sound but with brilliant treble (possibility choosing both options)
- volume normalizer, dynamic volume ecc is the most important thing
- good equaliser, i would to take down boomy bass, cause in my room generate too much rumblings without sub!!
- good virtualization for front surroun. I heard dolby virtual surround sound good. Right!! it sounds fantastic for my esperience


now i think searching is done, but i'm still choosing btw 1019 and Marantz SR-5004... wha's the best? the 2nd one has "freezing" sound like denon and audyssey functionality. I'm confused

thanks in advice
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