The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1019AH Owner's Thread - Page 81

I've got the old "fatty" model. So far, the PS3 seems to be doing a nice job of producing the surround effects, I'll check tonight to see if it will output bistream or not. Thanks!

I am considering buying the 919 over the 1019. And I'm also considering buying the KEF KHT-2005.3 (Gloss Black) to go with them.

Will the pairing be good? I have heard these KEF speakers in a local store and I was highly impressed with them. The Receiver connected in-store was a high-end Denon Receiver. But, I would really be interested in the Pioneer VSX- 919AH-K.

Any idea if the 1019 would be a better bet as compared to the 919. I don't need the extra HDMI and the upscaling would be done by my PS3/blu-ray player, right?

Any help would be highly appreciated. Any Pioneer owners out there using these KEF speakers?

PS: My main choice in music is Western Classical. I would also be using the Receiver with a few blu-ray movies and some old DVDs, and maybe some PS3 games.

Hey guys, I have a question.

I've been using my 1019 with my old HTiB speakers for a few weeks now, until I got my new speakers. I ordered some Polk Tsi500's, which just arrived. Here is the problem. These towers are rated at 8ohms, whereas the older speakers I had hooked up are rated at 6. I had switched the receiver to output for 6ohm speakers, but now I have my front main towers plugged in, and my old speakers filling in the gaps at center and surround L/R. Should I be running the receiver in 8ohm or 6ohm mode? Will it harm the speakers if it is set incorrectly? I have changed it to 8ohm because I'm more concerned about damaging the new Polks vs. damaging the old sony HTiB speakers. I will have the rest of my Polk system arriving in another couple weeks, but until then, am I at the correct setting? If that really isn't a problem that they're mixed, I might hook it up into a 7.1 system once the rest of my speakers arrive (and if the wife lets me).

Also, I am confused as to how to orient my mcacc settings. It seems I want these towers to run as small? They definitely sound a bit more "full" when I have them set as large, and then I select the SW setting to "Plus" but the sub outputs at a very low volume, if at all, even when the crossover changes around. I see that the Xover doesn't make much difference if the towers are set at large, so what is the best setting for these speakers? I feel like I am losing sound when they are set to small. Even though they only have 4 6.5" woofers, they can still get pretty low with the sub off, so I am just curious how to get them running at full potential.

Thanks for all the help!

I would be interested in what people have to say about this too.

I didn't realise for a while (because frankly, I didn't expect it), but the 5-piece system I'm using is actually made up of 6 and 8 ohms speakers (the 8's are the surrounds; 6's are the front and centre).

Since most receivers these days generally have an either/or setting, what are you supposed to do if your system has both?

Edit: I emailed the manufacturer of my speakers (Richter, Australian brand), and they just replied saying "it's not that important, but change it to 6 ohms". I guess that means you're better off running 8 ohms speakers at 6 ohms, than running 6 ohms speakers at 8 ohms.

The general rule is that the AVR will be fine with speakers that have higher impedance than the one the AVR is set or rated to. From that perspective I'd recommend that you set the speaker impedance to 6 Ohm.
Don't worry about the TSI500 - you can't blow them up with this AVR, unless you manage to produce a very steep ramp which can blow up most speakers with many AVRs. A friend's kid blew up the tweeter of my Cerwin Vega 100W speaker hooked up to my 50W/channel Technics amp by simply turning the volume to the max and then starting the CD player. The amp could not shut off fast enough

I have Polk TSI400 on the front, TSI300 for surround and CS10 for center. I have set them to LARGE and the sub to PLUS. People say that you are better off setting all speakers to SMALL for two reasons - a) to draw less power from the AVR especially if it has modest power capabilities, and b) to have one bass source, otherwise multiple bass sources from distant locations may cancel themselves out leading to less bass at your listening position.

In my setup the sub and the fronts are in the corner of the room and I believe I do not have wave cancellation, because of the fairly close distance.

I too feel that the sound is more full and powerful when the speakers are set to LARGE for my setup. I have Klipsch SUB-10. People say bass is not directional for such frequencies and it should not matter. Well, if multiple speakers reproduce it, they all add color to the overall perception. Then there is the emotional side that you have paid for large speakers and your mind flat-out refuses to accept that you have wasted your money!
I like a lot of bass and because I listen mostly to hard rock music which does not have as much bass as hip-hop, for example, I have increased the sub level by 9 and 11dB in two separate memories from what MCACC did. That said, the sub is overwhelming the bass from the fronts and the surrounds, but if I set them to small, it ain't the same thing.

So go ahead and experiment with large and small, the sub level and the EQ Pro of the manual MCACC. I keep saying that the timing range selection of the latter makes a huge difference. It was pointed out in the MCACC thread and that got me to try it out.

6 ohms, You want to configure the receiver for the worst case senario which would be 6 ohms in this case. This will set up the receiver's protection circuits to not overdrive the current output.

Hey everyone,

I just bought a 1019 for my parents for Christmas. I have a couple of questions about the receiver. In addition to their cable box and DVD player I hooked up a turntable and a cassette deck both using RCA (red and white) cables. I can only get audio if I push the standard surround button. I was reading the manual and it states that the auto surround feature (Auto Surr/ALC/Direct) is the simplest option and can select multichannel or stereo playback as necessary. When I use this option (Auto) on any input I get no audio on the speakers.

Is this normal? I was thinking that in Auto mode it would detect the signal and play it using the appropriate method.

I am able to get audio pressing one of the other surround sound buttons.

Thanks in advance for the information!

Colin

Thanks for all of the input. Since I had it at 8ohms, it does seem to pump a little more juice into the towers, especially running stereo modes (as opposed to surround modes or direct stream surround sources). I bumped up the center by a couple decibels to compensate and this has seemed to be working fine so far. As I said, I'm not really concerned with hurting my cheap old HTiB, and the rest of the Polks (I am getting the CS20, and Tsi200's for surrounds, and probably a PSW125 to round it out) should be here in another week or two, depending on how long order processing takes around the holidays. I will probably reset my receiver back to 6ohms until then though.

So far these towers seem to get the best response by having them set as "large" while listening to 2 channel stereo music, with a 50hz crossover. The towers are rated to get down to around 30hz before bottoming out but they pack a pretty decent low end if you really give it some juice. The only way to really tell if my sub is outputting any audio at this setting is to really turn it up loud to sort of overpower the tower speakers. I feel this is quite pointless, so I'm still trying to tinker and try different things to see what gets the best results. Tomorrow I will attempt to run the MCACC again w/ the new towers installed, it might give me a little better result than what I've been able to get on my own, but I'm just going to have to run it again eventually.

Anyways, thanks for all the suggestions and help!

I'm pretty sure that using the auto select function will just switch you into the appropriate sound mode. Since you are using white/red RCA connections, this is most likely going to be a stereo mode of some sort. Pressing the other surround button is cycling you through the various "simulated" surround modes that the receiver is programmed to do, such as Dolby ProLogicII or something. You won't be able to get full Dolby Digital or DTS out of a white/red hookup. You might check to see if your DVD player has a coaxial or optical output and try those.

Jedimasterchad,

The only devices I am using the red/white (RCA) cables on are the turntable and cassette deck. Both of these devices only have RCA outputs. I think you're correct in that I will only get stereo output with these devices. I am confused as to why I don't get any output when I use the auto mode. I am trying to make it easy as I can for my parents... put it in auto and let it make the decision on what mode is best for the source input.

Thanks again!

Colin

fyi - Amazon has the 919 for $369.99 right now with free shipping.

vanns has a better deal.....click on the your price at the right side of the page...and quote a low price...sumthing like 350 or sumthing....they are ready to come down to 379.99.....and vanns does not charge ANY sale tax...plus free shipping......so 380 is all u pay.....

wud love it if the 1019 came down to a ridiculously low price of about 410-420...any idea if this can be expected on boxing day sales??

My XBOX 360 is connected to Vsx-1019 via monoprice HDMI cable. When the unit turns ON, the Pio displays "Digital Audio" and this continues until I select MCE, Netflix or any other application and immediately it switches to "Stereo" (displays as Stereo on Pio)

Is this expected?

Much thanks.

If you're running your mains as large and listening to stereo music you won't get anything out of the sub (unless you're using speaker-level inputs or have PLUS set to on).

I have large mains with a powered woofer but my room requires me to set them to small with an 80Hz crossover otherwise it's difficult to prevent the bass from being boomy and properly blending with my sub. Even so, the 80Hz cross is not a hard line; you'll still get frequencies coming out of the mains down to probably 65Hz so the benefit of a larger main is not wasted.

-Scott

Does it do it it for games? or dvd's? I don't know if this is normal, I have mine hooked up with optical, and i hardly use either of those apps. It my be how the app is handling the sound. Netflix may be sent in stereo, MCE too, for that matter.

I would say if games and dvd's are full, then its the apps themselves.

I was thinking of getting a Polk sub from the PSW series to match my speakers, but the specs are not good. You can find more capable subs for the same or less money. I ended up buying Klipsch SUB-10 a few months ago. Unfortunately it's not available anymore.

I would get the 1019 do to the better up scaling and you have room to grow later. Keep in mind if you ever wanted to hook up a wii/dvd/vcr/ps2 etc, you are not going to have the upscaling that the 1019 is going to do for you.

Its not to much more. My .02

Just bought a 919 for my folks, and trying to hook up a Samsung BD (hdmi) and Series 2 Tivo (Component) and it just keeps saying "HDCP ERROR" no matter what we do. Any ideas? I've tried ever order of turning things on/off and it just doesn't work. TV is a Samsung LCD.

I am able to purchase the PSW125 for 139.98, brand new, through my Polk Accommodation. If you can find me a better sub at a price like that, I'm all ears (no pun intended).

I would do some more research. That $140 is a good start for a better sub.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=PSW125

I want to use my pioneer 1019AH-K receiver remote to control the Oppo BDP-83 blu-ray player but the manual does not list the codes to enter into the Pioneer remote to control it. I tried using 3 Oppo DVD player codes but these did not work, Can anyone help?

thanks pf728. its just that the 919 is $130 less (at current prices at amazon). The other thing is that I currently have just a DVD HTiB (no HDMI output) and a turntable. I'm currently in the process of upgrading my system to the 919. Thinking of getting those KEF speakers (fell in love with them at a local store, and they cost quite a bit, but will be going for those mostly). And I'll be getting a PS3 Slim as my blu-ray player, since its the best when it comes to blu-ray, and I also get to game a bit to relax. I will also be connecting my comp, which has an HDMI out.

So, the connections I'd be needing would be:
1) PS3 Slim to 919 via HDMI
2) Comp to 919 via HDMI
3) Denon Turntable to 919 via RCA
4) 919 to 37" LCD (mostly Samsung...yet to buy) via HDMI
5) 919 to 5.1 KEF Speakers (yet to buy)
6) Tata Sky Satellite Set-Top Box (with no HDMI output) to 919 via component and co-axial

So, I don't think I would be needing the 1019, since I would be having an HDMI input to spare (if my satellite dish providers ever upgrade to a box with HDMI). And I'm guessing, the Samsung would be able to achieve upscaling on its own.

I haven't yet bought anything, the only things I have right now are the Tata Sky Box and my Denon Turntable (and the old Sony DVD HTiB which I'll be getting rid off). But will be making my purchases soon (will be ordering the 919 on boxing day mostly) and then will be building up my HT.

The main reason for my earlier post was to ask people here, if they felt the KEF Speakers would be a good match for the 919.

Anyone's free to offer their suggestions, and correct me if I'm going wrong anywhere. Would be glad to hear them.

What is the best settings in general for audio sources? Is it stereo, or direct, pure direct, some of advance surround options, F.S. Surr Focus?

I have set on F.S. Surr Focus because I think that I have ritch and louder sound.

I've got the same issue... does anyone have a clue what this is all about? I've searched the PDF manual and don't see a reference to this at all.

For those worried about heat: I've got my 1019 crammed into a space with only .25" (1/4") above it, approx 20" to the left, 3" to the right and open in the back. So far NO overheating! Sure the unit gets hot (around 118 degrees from a temp probe) but it hasn't shut off yet. I noticed the heat sink runs the width of the unit and has intakes on the bottom to allow cool air in. So I added an 80mm fan to the left side (where the vents are) to pull warm air out. Still amazed at its performance in such tight space, I debated getting a smaller AVR but the feature set of the 1019 was far superior to anything else in its price range, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I'll keep ya updated and provide a more detailed review later.

Thanks to everyone on this thread, all the input and feedback really helps.

I'm considering bi-amping. Is anyone experiencing any noticeable negative impact from bi-amping? I currently run 5.1 and have a new pair of Paradigm Studio 20s in the front and worry that I'm already underpowered with my 919. Is bi-amping going to help or hurt?

I just ordered a 1019AH-K from Best Buy to replace my aging JVC RX-8020VBK.

I don't know a whole lot about receivers so what can I expect out of this 'upgrade'? I know the reviews have been excellent for the 1019 but aside from the fact that I now have a receiver that supports HDMI, has an iPod cable, and also a self-calibration microphone, what other little perks will I have here?

For example, can I expect improved sound quality or is that mostly dependent on the speakers alone? I checked and my JVC is listed as having a Total Harmonic Distortion of 0.08% in stereo and 0.8% in surround while the Pioneer is listed at 0.05% in general. Will that make an audible difference?

What other upgrades will I see in going from an old budget receiver to a top-quality mid-range receiver?

For reference, the rest of my system is comprised of a 5.1 set of Paradigm speakers (Titan v.3 x4, CC170, PDR10) a Samsung LN46A630, and a Samsung BD-P1500 BluRay player, which is hooked up via optical, as the JVC 8020 predates HDMI.

The three transistors that produce all the heat on the top of the receiver are all in a small row at the very top middle of the heatsink - you can sort of see them through the grille. Once the amp chips heat up enough to turn the internal fan on, it will cool these parts as well. Before I added my external fans, the internal one did very well at keeping things cool for normal movie watching; albeit it would run longer than it did with the external fans.

My opinion as an electronics tech - I would have been more comfortable with a variable speed fan controller in there, with the fan spinning at low speed all the time and then ramping up faster as needed. The problem with these three little transistors up top is, when the amp section doesn't get hot enough to turn the internal fan on, these parts need space above them for their heat to dissipate. I'd be concerned about leaving only a quarter inch free up there - if you hadn't added an extra fan, these three transistors may have experienced a shortened lifespan if the receiver was kept running at low (fanless) levels most of the time.

Hi,
just bought my brand new 1019 receiver.
This is my first receiver ever so it is all mostly news to me.
Using the manual managed (surprisingly to myself;-) to run the MCACC,
I could hear tones from each speaker/sub, all tests passed OK, speakers were automatically set to "small" and the X-over to 80Hz....

Now I have two questions...

1)In the beginning of the Mcacc it kept saying "Reverse phase" for the fron L and front R speaker though wires were set fine....I switched the wires and MCACC gave me the OK....the manual says "Reverse phase maybe displayed even if the speakers are properly connected. If this happens select "GO NEXT" and continue".
Now should I go back and switch wires back to the way they used to be and disregard the "Reverse phase" message? Or leave them as they are now (incorrect but MCACC seems to be happy ;-)???

2) Just put a BD movie in my PS3 and is plays it fine picture wise (what a PQ on my Kuro monitor) but no matter what I do all that is working are my front R and front L speakers and the Sub. No other speaker is producing any sound?!? Read the manual, pushed all kinds of buttons, etc....no luck...
When I press the Auto Surround button it shows as such but shortly after it shows STEREO on the display.....
I am sure I am not doing something right....could you please advice on how to get all my speakers to produce the 7.1 they should?

By the way I switched off the Kuro Link based on what I've read here before.

My system is like this:

1) Kuro 50" Plasma KRP-500M
2) PS3
3) Samsung external tuner DTV-H260F for OTA HDTV
4) Pioneer 1019 receiver

Only using HDMI cables for all my connections.

Please help....

I've got the same problem with a DirecTV HD-DVR HR20-700 and my 1019. It happens regardlesss of which order you power up the components, if the DVR is on an HD channel and I switch to an SD channel I lose the audio.

The fix is to make sure Kuro Link is OFF (page 62), connect an optical (Toslink) cable and tell the AVR to use Optical 1 for sound while using HDMI 1 for video (page 40). Then use the Signal Sel button on the remote to force the AVR to use Digital (Optical 1 for TV/Sat in my case) as the audio source (page 58).

Note on page 22 of the manual is says "About the audio connection There are several types of audio input and output terminals on this receiver. The receiver selects the first available signal in the following order:" and then lists all the choices. You'll notice HDMI is #1 in priority, thus in Auto mode it will OVER-RIDE the optical choice you made in the basic setup on page 40!

This drove me nuts until I understood that just telling it to use optical for audio is not enough, you have force the digital audio setting by use Signal Sel on the remote or it just defaults back to HDMI and you lose your SD audio.

This AVR really suffers from a some sloppy user interfaces issues, a poorly written manual combined with remote full on tiny multi-function buttons that require you to push the RECEIVER button at the bottom before doing just about anything. In addition like alot of CE devices these days the infamous "auto" mode is nothing but trouble once you step outside the normal configuration.

BTW this particular audio problem is not the AVRs fault, I believe its a DirecTV issue since anytime you pause or switch channels the audio signal completely drops out (the AVR's display confirms this).

I have the exact same issue with Dish. You can also toggle the input's to get your audio back.