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The "Official" Pioneer VSX-1019AH Owner's Thread - Page 133

post #3961 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by vttom View Post

Perhaps you need to upgrade your center channel speaker? I know I used to have the same complaint as you, but once I upgraded the center channel speaker, I haven't had a problem hearing dialog or having to "ride" the volume.

Not sure what you have, but I previously had problems with the center channel volume as well. I recently got new fronts and a new center. Now the center is wonderful, the db level is much lower than with the previous speaker too.
post #3962 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddysnake View Post

Not sure what you have, but I previously had problems with the center channel volume as well. I recently got new fronts and a new center. Now the center is wonderful, the db level is much lower than with the previous speaker too.

Well I have a new Polk SurroundBar which I bought specifically because I don't have the room or inclination to a full speaker set up. Perhaps it's not ideal? Short of getting new speakers, any other suggestions?
post #3963 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddysnake View Post

I have my hooked up with HDMI and optical. I'm not at home right now, but if you check my recent posts, I got it to work. When I get back, I'll check it out and let you know for sure, but I think I just assigned the HDMI video to where the Optical was plugged in rather than assign optical to the hdmi.

Yeah that is the basic idea. I think the reason Sig Select doesn't work for some people is because they don't go thru the process of assigning the inputs as described in the manual. They just want to link an optical input to HDMI 1 (for example), but the AVR doesn't play that way. Instead you have to setup TV/SAT (for example) to use video from HDMI-1 and audio from optical, then turn OFF the "auto" feature, more info in this post:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...v#post17790577
That post describes my similar issue when using a DirecTV box, but the setup applies to any source where you want HDMI video with Optical audio.
post #3964 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by pringle_todd View Post

Well I have a new Polk SurroundBar which I bought specifically because I don't have the room or inclination to a full speaker set up. Perhaps it's not ideal? Short of getting new speakers, any other suggestions?

You can also turn on the Dialog Enhancement option, see page 64 + 65 to see if that helps.

Personally I just adjust the individual speaker levels, for example my sub is running "hot" (+3dB) and my rears are +2dB. It's not balanced but its the way I like it and that's all that really matters.
post #3965 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctrl@ltDel View Post

I have been using this reciever and UVERSE, since December of last year. I have had zero problems.....until today.

Today I hear so much static that we cannot watch tv thru the receiver. My only solution, was similar to yours, in that I had to change the UVERSE box audio settings from Surround sound to Stereo.

Have you, or has anyone else found a solution? My recordings made prior to, today sound great. But today everything is static. ATT, ran me thru the standard troubleshooting, to no avail. GOOGLING shows others with the same issue with this receiver.

HELP!


Thank you, Its really good to know I'm not crazy, until the last 4 or 5 days it still worked just fine on cable channels, I.E. HBO, ESPN ect.... but now it has the static distortion on all channels, hopefully this is something that ATT can get fixed relatively quickly, because watching THE PACIFIC last not on hbo was not nearly as good without surround sound....
post #3966 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stilly77 View Post

^^^^^^^

Is the audio out on the UVERSE configurable? If available, you could shut the HDMI audio out off and run an optical cable from it to the receiver, and enable optical audio out. You'd have HDMI video and optical audio. I had to do that with an old Sci Atlanta cable box that would not send audio through the HDMI. It worked fine with 5.1.

A hard reset of the receiver could also be tried, but you lose all of your settings.

Thank you! I will try an optical cable and see if that helps. I already did the hard reset but it didnt do anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aross99 View Post

This is an issue with uVerse that has popped up over the last 30 days or so, depending on where you are located. For me happened within the last week. For some other people it has been going on since the beginning of April.

Unfortunately, all we have been told is that they are aware of the issues, and a firmware fix is coming for the uVerse boxes.

There is an on going thread on this over at the utalk forums. The symptoms are different depending on the type of AVR you are using. For some people, it does not have the distortion, but a very low 5.1 volume (hence the title of the thread). For those of us with Pioneer receivers, we have a nasty distortion.

The temporary work around is to use Stereo on your uVerse box instead of Surround.

Here is the link to the whole thread:

http://utalk.att.com/t5/Equipment/Vo...VR/td-p/213758

You find more specific detail around page 3:

http://utalk.att.com/t5/Equipment/Vo.../213758/page/3

If I get any more info, I will post it here...

THANK YOU! This really helps. I finally stumbled on switching the uverse box over to stereo from surround and that at least lets us listen to tv without the awful distortion.
Please let us know when the UVERSE box firmware update is released
post #3967 of 5121
I'm picking up a PA 120 sub today to replace my Yamaha 8" sub that I had back in my smaller apartment days. A lot of people are running dual subs now. The resale value for the Yammy is minimal, so I'm wondering if I'd benefit from hooking up both? The PA 120 is a 12". I'm not exactly sure if MCAAC would be able to compensate for 2 subs, anyone try this or have any suggestions?
post #3968 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddysnake View Post

I'm picking up a PA 120 sub today to replace my Yamaha 8" sub that I had back in my smaller apartment days. A lot of people are running dual subs now. The resale value for the Yammy is minimal, so I'm wondering if I'd benefit from hooking up both? The PA 120 is a 12". I'm not exactly sure if MCAAC would be able to compensate for 2 subs, anyone try this or have any suggestions?

Two subs would be fine, as many people in the subs forum will tell you. At the least it smooths out bass nulls, you just have to take some time to place them appropriately. The ideal is having identical subs, but matching the subs is not as important as matching speakers.

Do the sub crawl and it should be fine. Use a Y junction to split the signal.
post #3969 of 5121
Hi,,

I bought this receiver to get HTPC with my computer,,
I have DVI to HDMI for my video,, and Optical for my sound,,
the sound works if i dont assign hdmi in the same way ,,(tv/sat)
if i assign opt-1 with Hdmi-1,, the sound works for less than 10 secondes,,
after the video movies is there but the sound come and go,,

I try everything like that:

Originally Posted by tex94
This is the right advice. You need to assign BOTH the HDMI connection from your PC and either an digital audio (Coax or toslink) or analog audio (RCA) to another video input (DVD, DVR, TV...). Here are the basic steps:

1) turn off Kuro link
2) write down where you connected the PC to (i.e., DVI into HDMI 1, RCA into TV/SAT)
3) Access the Pio menu and go to Input Setup
4) Access the input you want to use (such as TV/SAT)
5) Scroll down to HDMI and select the HDMI input you used. In my example, I wrote down HDMI1 (NOTE: this cannot be BD as that is fixed).
6) Assign either the digital input or the RCA input here as well.
7) While you are there you can rename the TV/SAT input to HTPC or whatever works for you
8) Save and exit the set up.

Now, turn on the PC, TV and Pioneer and set the Pio to the input you assigned. You will probably see video but still have no sound. You then press 'Signal Select' on the remote until you get sound. You should only have to do this the first time and it will auto default in the future.


Need help please,,
post #3970 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Two subs would be fine, as many people in the subs forum will tell you. At the least it smooths out bass nulls, you just have to take some time to place them appropriately. The ideal is having identical subs, but matching the subs is not as important as matching speakers.

Do the sub crawl and it should be fine. Use a Y junction to split the signal.

When I run MCAAC, do I keep both subs on? Will it be able to run accurately using 2 subs?
post #3971 of 5121
I just found a solution to the picture/no audio, audio/no picture problem I was having with my computer feeding the receiver HDMI video and Optical audio.

http://currysauce.org/2010/03/20/how...raphics-cards/

I took me 10 minutes, and has worked like a charm.

I guess this isn't a Pioneer problem, but NVIDIA problem. For shame!
post #3972 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post


2) check the htpc forums. most issues along the lines you are describing tend to be firmware related with the graphics/audio cards.

Quote:
Originally Posted by devinthedude57 View Post

2. As far as I can gather, the graphics card is working perfectly. This is a known problem specific to the 1019 that I haven't seen solved in this forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by devinthedude57 View Post

I just found a solution to the picture/no audio, audio/no picture problem I was having with my computer feeding the receiver HDMI video and Optical audio.

http://currysauce.org/2010/03/20/how...raphics-cards/

I took me 10 minutes, and has worked like a charm.

I guess this isn't a Pioneer problem, but NVIDIA problem. For shame!

i'm shocked, shocked that it was the graphics card...

glad you are up and running...
post #3973 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctrl@ltDel View Post

THANK YOU! This really helps. I finally stumbled on switching the uverse box over to stereo from surround and that at least lets us listen to tv without the awful distortion.
Please let us know when the UVERSE box firmware update is released

UVerse started rolling out the fix this morning. All of my channels are working now in 5.1.

Try changing your audio options in uVerse back to 5.1 and see if it is working for you now...
post #3974 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddysnake View Post

When I run MCAAC, do I keep both subs on? Will it be able to run accurately using 2 subs?

Both on. You are sending only one signal out through the sub out, so to the AVR, it is just analyzing output. Tune to your liking, and most importantly, position them well.

You should go to the subs forum and search for MCACC and subs to get an idea of how it worked for others, or ask them some questions. They are pretty knowledgeable and devoted to the booming boxes
post #3975 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Both on. You are sending only one signal out through the sub out, so to the AVR, it is just analyzing output. Tune to your liking, and most importantly, position them well.

You should go to the subs forum and search for MCACC and subs to get an idea of how it worked for others, or ask them some questions. They are pretty knowledgeable and devoted to the booming boxes

will do, as always, thanks!
post #3976 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by aross99 View Post

UVerse started rolling out the fix this morning. All of my channels are working now in 5.1.

Try changing your audio options in uVerse back to 5.1 and see if it is working for you now...

GREAT NEWS!!!! this has been bugging me really bad for the past month.....
post #3977 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by aross99 View Post

UVerse started rolling out the fix this morning. All of my channels are working now in 5.1.

Try changing your audio options in uVerse back to 5.1 and see if it is working for you now...

NO WAY! As soon as the wife finishes her show, I will try it! Fingers crossed. THANKS!

EDIT: NUTS! The patch hasnt gotten here yet.
post #3978 of 5121
mine is fixed, thank goodness....
post #3979 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctrl@ltDel View Post

NO WAY! As soon as the wife finishes her show, I will try it! Fingers crossed. THANKS!

EDIT: NUTS! The patch hasnt gotten here yet.

According to what I have read over at uTalk, they are still rolling this out across the country. I would keep trying periodically. You should have it soon!
post #3980 of 5121
I have a tendency to make things much harder than they really are, and well, I'm doing it again...

I recently got a new PA-120 sub and I'm also going to be purchasing a SPL meter. Currently with the sub, I want to set Phase to 0, Crossover, All the way up, and Volume: 5 (1/2 way up) and then run MCAAC. But, now that I'm getting a SPL meter, am I going to want to change this process?

Do I want to get the sub to 75db before I run MCAAC using the SPL, then run MCAAC, then use the SPL to double check speaker db's? I guess I'm confused on how to adjust the sub using the SPL and then MCAAC? Do I adjust the sub or avr settings?
post #3981 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddysnake View Post

I have a tendency to make things much harder than they really are, and well, I'm doing it again...

I recently got a new PA-120 sub and I'm also going to be purchasing a SPL meter. Currently with the sub, I want to set Phase to 0, Crossover, All the way up, and Volume: 5 (1/2 way up) and then run MCAAC. But, now that I'm getting a SPL meter, am I going to want to change this process?

Do I want to get the sub to 75db before I run MCAAC using the SPL, then run MCAAC, then use the SPL to double check speaker db's? I guess I'm confused on how to adjust the sub using the SPL and then MCAAC? Do I adjust the sub or avr settings?

MCAAC basically negates the need for a SPL meter, you can still run MCAAC and use the SPL to double check the results and possibly make some volume adjustments to what MCAAC had set. The meter is primarily used for balancing speaker levels so that volume for each speaker match so if you have gunshots whizzing by all around one shot doesn't sound louder than the next out of the same gun.
post #3982 of 5121
so basically I just run MCAAC like normal with a sub (Phase to 0, Crossover, All the way up, and Volume: 1/2 way) then I could use the SPL meter to double check and if needed adjust the sub volume in the AVR?

Now for the other part, I'm going to try and use my old sub so I have 2 subs running. The old one is completely different (8" Yamaha) and from other recomendations I was going to use it opposite of the main sub (PA120) behind the couch for more of a feel tactic, because I know if I try and calibrate both the smaller yammy is going to bring the PA120 down. How should I go about setting that up with MCAAC?
post #3983 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by aross99 View Post

According to what I have read over at uTalk, they are still rolling this out across the country. I would keep trying periodically. You should have it soon!

The patch made it to my box! Surround sound is back!
post #3984 of 5121
Hi for what use is TRIM on equalizator?
post #3985 of 5121
Hi,

I couldn't figure out how to do either of the following, with my 1019:

(1) Assign HDMI1 to the "TV/SAT" selection. The 'HDMI input" item on the 'assign inputs' screen is greyed out --- *whether Kuro Link is enabled or disabled*. I could not get this field to be selectable in any circumstance. Any ideas?

(2) I have a couple of outdoor speakers set up in zone 2 that I would love to use for listening to music that comes in via Direct TV (or, listen to the game outside, which is on direct TV, etc.). I can get ipod/usb, tuner, etc to work, but is there a way I can get the audio from direct TV to go out zone 2? It would not matter to me if it is completely independent (i.e. zone 1 and zone 2 on different inputs at the same time), or not.

Also -- did anyone ever figure out if the firmware on the 1019 is upgradable by the customer?

Thanks!!
post #3986 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by petergriffin999 View Post

Hi,

I couldn't figure out how to do either of the following, with my 1019:

(1) Assign HDMI1 to the "TV/SAT" selection. The 'HDMI input" item on the 'assign inputs' screen is greyed out --- *whether Kuro Link is enabled or disabled*. I could not get this field to be selectable in any circumstance. Any ideas?

(2) I have a couple of outdoor speakers set up in zone 2 that I would love to use for listening to music that comes in via Direct TV (or, listen to the game outside, which is on direct TV, etc.). I can get ipod/usb, tuner, etc to work, but is there a way I can get the audio from direct TV to go out zone 2? It would not matter to me if it is completely independent (i.e. zone 1 and zone 2 on different inputs at the same time), or not.

Also -- did anyone ever figure out if the firmware on the 1019 is upgradable by the customer?

Thanks!!

1. try another available input....make sure Kuro is OFF.

2. You'll have to run stereo analog cables form the DTV box to the receiver. Digital connections do not work with Zone 2.
post #3987 of 5121
is there any way to have your music, say an older CD thats only stereo , come out to either all 5.1 channels or 7.1
post #3988 of 5121
I feel retarded for asking this, but is there some magic involved in getting the front panel to open? I push on the "push here" portion, and it won't open/pop out. I know I've had it opened before (from when I first purchased the AVR last summer and ran the MCACC), but for whatever reason, it simply won't budge.
post #3989 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmycooper View Post

is there any way to have your music, say an older CD thats only stereo , come out to either all 5.1 channels or 7.1

Try the Advanced Surround mode: EXT.STEREO, alternatively, you could also try the Standard Surround modes: Dolby ProLogicII MUSIC or NEO:6 MUSIC
post #3990 of 5121
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkedgex View Post

I feel retarded for asking this, but is there some magic involved in getting the front panel to open? I push on the "push here" portion, and it won't open/pop out. I know I've had it opened before (from when I first purchased the AVR last summer and ran the MCACC), but for whatever reason, it simply won't budge.

Yes, it can be very very tight sometimes. The method I employ, which works most of the times, is to press very hard at the place where PUSH OPEN is written. Then, as soon as the other side comes out even a tiny millimeter, try getting it out with your nails.
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