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Cost to convert 2x4 exterior wall to staggered wall

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hello, I'm new member to the forum I'm in the design phase of my music studio/theatre room. I have a room where the exterior wall is a 2x4 with stucco on outside, and with 2 windows.

My plan was to rip out the interior drywalls, add a 2x2 top & bottom plate and use staggered wall on it. The wall dimension is 20'x8' with 2 windows. My designer tried to talk me out of it and told me it'll cost me 10k to rip it out and do staggered walls, does it sound right? it's much more expensive than I thought.

He told me to simply build a wall on top of it without removing the dry wall, which of makes it "triple leaf" that I don't want.

He told me by removing the drywalls, I would damage the the vapor barrier, and redoing the vapor barrier + add more insulation will cost me.

My question is:
- Is this true? Is what I'm doing uneconomical?
- If I were to convert my 2x4 exterior wall with staggered stud config, do I actually need to rework the vapor barrier/insulation?
- When converting 2x4 wall to staggered, do I actually need to add more insulation to fill the extra 2" gap? or can I simply leave it?

Thanks for your suggestions!

Desperately needing your ideas

Kelvin

PS - My original plan was to convert it to staggered wall, with 2 layers of drywall with green glue applied. I'll add an interior windows using product similar to soundproofed windows.
post #2 of 11
You can achieve a similar isolation effect by removing the rooms drywall, leaving the insulation untouched. Then using whisper clips and 7/8 hat channel to mount the replacement drywall layers and GG. No staggered studs required, no triple leaf, no moisture barrier issues other than taping any areas you rip removing the drywall..

Are you hiring this out or DIY?

Soundproofingcompany.com has diagrams showing the whisper clip installation approach.
post #3 of 11
your designer is not competent as far as construction is concerned. I would be very worried and probably find someone else.

There is probably about 10k of lumber in an entire house.
post #4 of 11
Is this an interior designer or a "designer" claiming to be expert in audio/video room design? If claiming to be a specialist in audio/video spaces, fire them now before the nightmare begins.
post #5 of 11
Another option you have is to take off the interior drywall and add a full inner set of studs to create a double stud wall. This has the advantages of giving the highest degree of sound isolation plus not requiring modification to your existing studs, at the cost of lost interior room space (3 1/2" for second studs and plates + 1" to 2" separation between studs). Such a strategy, combined with double drywall, gives a very high performance wall which probably shouldn't need the extra expense of viscoelastic damping (Green Glue) between drywall layers.

- Terry
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the suggestions! I've got this ballpark figure with safety margin built:

wood framing: $12/sq.ft (labour only)
materials: $6/sq.ft (delivery is extra; assuming only the interior side)
drywall: $8/sq.ft (material+labour)

I think that's how he came up with the estimates. He's probably assuming the $8/sq.ft include double layer & GG

I'm still debating whether i'm overdoing this by decoupling the exterior wall. Or I could simply add a layer of drywall with GG, and add the interior windows.

Anyways, thanks all!
post #7 of 11
One of the things missing in your discussion is telling us what it is you want to achieve or what problem you're trying to solve. You don't want to be spending $$$ on that wall if what you're doing isn't going to fix the problem or address the issue you want to solve.
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks for your suggestion, Dennis.

Basically, I live in a townhouse and my plan to to knock down the partition wall of 2 rooms, create a bigger multi-purpose room (for moderate sound level band rehearsal & for movie/entertainment). room ~20'x16'x8'

I want to reduce sound leakage to outside and to my immediate neighbors. I want to do some music recording too.

The current room has:
exterior wall: stucco on stucco wire, R20 batt, 2x4-16", vapor barrier,1/2" drywall inside
party wall: double wall, 1" air gap, acoustic batt, acoustic caulked, 5/8" drywall + 1/2" sound deadening board on both side
interior wall: uninsulated 2x4 typical wall
floor: wood subfloor, no insulation, glued/nailed drywall
ceiling: single drywall.. above it is R40 insulated attic

My ideal plan is:
- add 1 layer of 1/2" or 5/8" drywall with Green Glue (GG) on the party walls, and on the ceiling
- Ripped the interior drywall of the exterior wall, extend the top & bottom plate and create a staggered wall. use 2 layers of drywall with GG
- Create a staggered wall , insulated for interior wall
- add a owens corning quiet floor pad, and add 2 layers of plywood with GG.. - Use linoleum tiles for the flooring
- add 2 interior windows

My budget is $17500. At most $20000. This includes new lighting & switches

My problem is.. i dunno if i'm overdoing by ripping out the drywall of the exterior wall and extending it using staggered configuration.

I *think* it's neccessary though.
post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Right View Post

for moderate sound level band rehearsal

IMHO You really need to bring in a pro unless your neighbor is deaf.

While everything you describe sounds like a good idea there may be things you are overlooking.
post #10 of 11
When you start talking bands and recording, you enter a whole different arena of soubdproofing needs. This might help: http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/..._within_a_room
post #11 of 11
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