Official LG "XXLH90" 240hz LED Owners Forum [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 105

Not sure what you mean by an optical cable from the STB to the TV. The TV doesn't have an optical input that I'm aware of.

It's the "pass through" of audio from the STB through the TV to the AVR that is the main problem, at least on some STBs. If you route audio through the AVR first so that it is playing directly from the source rather than through the TV, then the TV doesn't do the pass-through. As to the idea the EDID editing completely solves the issue, we have lots of folks who've had EDID editing done and it didn't solve it. YMMV.

- Mark

Right, my mistake. I meant running an optical cable from the TV to the AVR.

I was dead set on buying a panasonic g20 for the past couple months but was scared off due too rising black levels. So instead I bought the 47lh90 which picture looks super sick. Using the THX mode for blu ray movies I found to look very good. There have been reviews saying this mode is slightly off, is this true? I was watching "Kingdom of Heaven" for the black levels and I can't complain, this picture looked awesome. I then put in Transformers and saw slightly oversaturated yellows, is this the THX settings problem I have heard about.

The lip sync issue that exists is usually intermittent, but it happens quite often. After the fix it still happens every now and again, but it is much more obvious that it is channel or source dependent. It is also very rare.

I tried Pass Through on my STB but it caused lip sync issues again. It did restore Dolby Digital, though. In the future I will get a receiver with upconverting and scaling to allow all my inputs to pass through HDMI. The only reason I need to use the current optical out is for the Wii because I do not have component inputs on my receiver either.

I am *most* interested in the actual EDID update procedure.

I want to know, specifically (if those of you can remember):

if it was something where numbers were entered, one at a time manually, or if it was a form of "upload" from a USB stick
if it was "instant", or if it took a few seconds,

It's clear to me from this thread, the fw update, AND the EDID update are two separate proceudres, not ocurring "atomically".

I DO NOT believe that in my case, the LG rep did the EDID update (he did not even know what it was about actually until I told him, & even then all it appeared he did was go into "EDID D/L", and nothing more after that... nor did it seem that anything in that sub-menu moved/changed/animated. It just said OK (or something) at its' bottom, and didn't say FAIL or something similar. He assumed something successful ocurred, but admittedly, didn't really know; neither do I)

Let me be clear, the only thing the fw update did, is change the audio from the STB that the TV forwards to my HT to PCM-48; i.e, using the Auto setting in my STB (where it's always been set to & has not changed) now no longer causes the TV to send DD5.1to my HT-- before the fw up it sent DD5.1 when that stream existed, AND DD2.0 when that was the only stream.

Now the TV only exclusively sends PCM-48 to the HT-- which we all here have established, is merely a "kludge" to rectify the lip sync issue-- BUT at the cost of DD5.1. That's not a fix. We never needed any fw or EDID update to effect this "kludge" on our own, all we had to do was change the STB audio output from "Auto" (or "Pass-Thru") to "L-PCM".

*IF* the EDID update really fixes the issue, then I am trying to determine, *if* I actually got it, before I call back the tech who was here earlier to request he come back. Obviously, some tech's don't know that much about this issue (& EDID updates), so I want to be armed as much detail as possible.

THX mode is the most accurate picture preset out of the box. The problems are the RGB tracking isn't as tight as it could be, color temperature is a little high and the gamma can be a touch on the high side as well. THX mode seems to be around 6900-7100k (6500k is what's recommended) and the gamma seems to be around 2.3 (which is ok... 2.2-2.35 is usually recommended). Some people prefer a slightly more cool color temperature anyway. The higher the gamma, the more shadow detail you'll lose but there will be more contrast between light and dark areas. A lower gamma gives you better shadow detail but a more washed out look.

hello i been having a problem with my 47lh90, sometimes when i change inputs theres kinda like a static, shock noise. It only makes this noise when i change inputs. The noise happens right when i click enter.

What could it be?

Got your PM. I'll try to remember, but I'm not going to go back and reread all my posts. I think I was the beta tester for all this...

The EDID is ID information the TV sends to the STB to tell it what it is communicating with during the HDMI handshaking. When I first had a rent a tech come out he said 'oh, a FW update won't fix lip sync and left. I called LG again and told them what happened (not very politely). They got the rent a tech on the phone (and they themselves hung up!) He pulled some info from some LG service site and said, 'oh yea the EDID update, that would do it.' So he came back out. The procedure went something like this. Install FW update. This disabled access to the SM. Access to the service menu then required a special LG service remote, which he had to go get. He came back and accessed the SM and did the EDID update, which took just a minute. Then it was done. You could definitely see the EDID cleared and reloaded in the update process. You had to look for it as it was fast, just a minute, but it was definitely two distinct steps.

I still occasionally get lip sync problems on a couple of things. Remote reporters on NBC news, TNT HD (although they never have anything I watch as most of their programming is just stretched SD content and not HD. The same feed on the SD channel won't have lip sync problems, and RTV, that dash 2 digital network some local stations now have as part of their digital feed. The RTV problem is on some of the real old shows like wagon train, daniel boone, etc. I attribute all these to broadcast problems, everything else if fine. Make sure you are not just having some nagging broadcast issues.

I can't comment to your 5.1 issues as all our broadcast TV just uses the LG sound with the STB hooked directly to the TV via HDMI. (My technically challenged wife's requirement.) I only use external sound when playing DVD or BD through my Oppo BD-83 and I of course never had lip sync issues there, before or after FW update.

Thanks for picking this one up. So let me ask you this.

You do NOT have an audio optical connection from the TV to your home theater, do you.

See what I'm beginning to think (my conspiracy mind) is this:
The firmware update changed the way the TV extracts the audio from the HDMI feed, in such a way that the the TV *now*, chooses (perhaps a better word is 'requests', from the STB) the PCM audio stream always, and ignores the DD5.1 stream.

This is essentially, the kludge to fix the sync issue. IOW, LG really does NOT have a fix for the sync issue, and they simply make the TV use the PCM stream, which will "address" the issue for most LG owners (assuming most DO NOT have Home Theaters which are fed audio from the TV optical out).

Since you DO NOT have your LG's audio optical output routed into your HT, you cannot test my hypothesis, HOWEVER, if you look at NICK_WI's post a few posts above, you will see, that he has found the same thing I'm seeing:

that he *still* has the lip sync issue under the configuration I noted, the paragraph before last. And he seems quite sure he had the EDID update..

I believe he has not noticed the issue because of what I stated before: The TV is requesting only PCM from the STB (when the STB's audio out is set to "Auto"). Once he set it to "Pass-Thru", he too is indicating the same old lip sync issue has returned (along with correct 5.1 audio and not simply 2 ch PCM). Also, he proly hasn't been using his HT under the "problem" config with his STB (IOW, just TV), -OR-, he has a direct audio feed from the STB to the HT and simply tried the "problem" config to verify what I'm saying here.

So now, I'm not sure what to do for further verification, since I thought you'd be the one, but your config is set to "wife-mode", so you can corroborate, or deny..

No I do not have that configuration. I have that capability, but don't have it hooked up. If I were to use the sound system with TV, I'd run the HDMI from the STB to my Denon AVR, then the Denon to the TV and let the Denon sort it out. It has auto lip sync correction. I actually started to hook it up this way as the denon would do hdmi pass through with the receiver off in standby mode. That way I'd have TV sound for being 'wife proof' but would have the benefit of having access to sound through my Paradigms. The Denon power draw was 30W in standby mode so I chose to just go hdmi straight to the TV from the STB and by pass the denon. I even have a separate DVD player hooked up via hdmi straight to the TV. The oppo/Denon/Paradigms are a totally separate leg for family movie night and music.

Well, I called the LG tech (he gave me his cell) and he will come back tomorrow or the next day.

He agreed that when we "looked" into the "EDID D/L" sub-menu, really nothing at all happened. I told him that we should necesarilly see the EDID "cleared out" and then reloaded-- that it's fast, but noticeable.

He agreed and is going to come back- I just hope he knows what the hell he's doing, and doesn't try to "guess".. A screwed EDID can be horrible from what I understand.

Do you recall if your tech "uploaded" EDID info into the TV from a USB stick? Or did he manually enter numbers?
And do you happen to recall if he did it by going into the "EDID D/L" sub-menu as seen here, or somewhere else?

I imagine EDID's are specific to model.. I'm really concerned about the 2nd visit and hoping to get as much detail as I can beforehand.

It was loaded via the same usb stick used to update the FW. I couldn't tell you what files he had on the stick though, I'd expect the tech to know that.

Thanks for all the detailed replies.

I'll keep you guys posted on happenings, although ATM, I'm personally leaning toward "LG really didn't fix anything" (based soley on Nick's feedback).

Hope I'm wrong.. We'll see.

hello i been having a problem with my 47lh90, sometimes when i change inputs theres kinda like a static, shock noise. It only makes this noise when i change inputs. The noise happens right when i click enter.

What could it be?


can anyone help me please.

Would he allow you to download the files onto your computer in order for you to share with the rest of the members? Of course that Service Remote might be a problem? Another thing you might try to get from him would be the Code to Open the Intelligent Sensor Mode in order for us to boost the Backlight to a viewable picture or some other trick besides shining the light at the sensor!

Check that there's not another electronic device or a strong electrical current causing an interference in the nearby vicinity. ie. Just had a problem with a client that turned out to be a doll with a talking mechanism that was interferring with her wireless router, not the same but you can see what I mean!

Hello, does anyone own this set with a ps3? from the neighborhood review site, they mention that the sl90 is abit lag than the sl80.. this is kind of worry me because mostly I'll play FPS game.

Anyone can recommend this over sl80? What about the black level? Is it better than the sl80?

Below is the quote

Your model and firmware are going to be different, but this does make me wonder about newer versions of the firmware and how they differ.

The SL90/80 (or SL9000 in Europe) are edge-lit models. I dunno about those, but from my testing of my 55LH90, I only got ~30ms of lag. Anything under 40ms is pretty good and not noticeable by most people. Most people probably wouldn't even notice 50ms.

the only things arpund my tv are a ps3, a computer. What else could it be.

does anyone have problems with a hazy/ out of focus picture? like when i watching sportscenter and its zoomed in to the hosts face if he turns his head it loses focus then it re focuses.

also i having issues with lines looking like they flicker. like on the front of cars and especially buildings.

i unplugged my tv for about 30minutes when i plugged it back in it look great faces were focus, movement looked smooth..

just wanted some help on whats wrong with my tv? i am tried of rejusting my set everytime i turn it on.

So your saying is that the Sl90 will be on par with the SL80 regarding the lag time? The SL90 is a local dimming on your quote, what is local dimming? I'm trying to narrow my choices here.. up until now I'm considering 40B650, 42SL80, 42SL90..

Again, if the problem is not consistent, it is unlikely to be the TV. More than likely, its simply that the camera has a poorly trained operator or has a problem of some sort.

These new TVs allow us to see all kinds of defects in source material that we paid no attention to a few years back.

- Mark

Sorry, no that's not what I was saying. I'm just saying they're different from the LH90 and this is an LH90 thread. I wasn't sure if you were curious about the lag on the LH90 or the SL models. If you're wondering how much lag are in the SL models, the SL threads are probably a better place to ask.

I would assume the SL models would be similar to the LH90 though seeing how the video processing is probably similar.

ACK! my bad! I wasn't reading full of the title as I curiously await your reply. Yes, I'm refering to SL version sorry to cross-post this..

Chad B. to the rescue ....

Bought the 47LH90 two weeks ago and got to watch the remainder of the Olympics on it. There was pretty good wow factor. I calibrated it with picture wizard and got fairly good results, but it was clear some aspects were a fair amount off, especially in low light such as in outside shots on overcast days. And, while the closing ceremonies looked pretty impressive, the colors and clarity weren't quite right. I decided to schedule a calibration with Chad B a few days after getting the set.

Chad was out here for 4 hours on Sunday, meticulously setting the colors, black, and white. He saved two fully-calibrated settings - a day mode and a night mode. He made three passes through the day and night calibrations to get the colors just right. For over one hour of the four hours, I watched Chad as he worked, sitting beside him and looking at the laptop software (CalMan) and asking quite a few questions about the calibration technique, why the factory settings were so far off, what the goals were. Chad was very patient in responding - with clarity and depth.

It's amazing how much more detail there is. Facial colors are natural. Shades of black, even the darkest ones, are visible in the shadows or low light. Borders are super sharp. Colors are vibrant and fully-nuanced.

I'm really happy with the results, particularly the night settings with give the theater-quality look and feel that I wanted. I had calibrated my old 42" Westinghouse set using a calibration DVD, but never would have been able to accurately calibrate the LG. There are 10 brightness setting steps for each color (red, green, and blue) and two settings for each color. Changing the red affects the blue and green. There's just no way to get it really right without a light meter and good software like Calman. By hand, you might be able to get it within 10% of right for each color, but with it being as much as 10% off for each color at various brightnesses, you won't have the colors working together as they should and you miss out on the full capabilities of the set.

You can get it looking good, but you can't get it looking great. And this set has the capability to look truly great.

(PS: I live in PA. Chad lives in Ohio. I got an appointment scheduled sooner than I thought it would be possible. )

Could also have a bad hdmi cable. Maybe not making good connection. Check all your cables. Also the suggestion of interference from something else is appropriate to check out.

One further note. The tech when he finally did it correctly had a detailed procedure he had printed from LG's service site.

Someone asked about getting a TV online two pages back and I haven't seen a response yet.

I have purchased two TVs through Abt Electronics and they have always been willing to cut me a good deal.

I normally check all the online places I can think of like Vann's, Crutchfield, Amazon, 6thAve, Fry's, and now HHGregg. I take the lowest price I find and see if a local store (like Best Buy) will match that. If they won't, which they normally won't, I see which online retailer I feel most comfortable with purchasing from and go with them.

Good luck.