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Official LG "XXLH90" 240hz LED Owners Forum [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 109

post #3241 of 4715
I hope my TV ships today. I know I won't be able to set it all up until likely March 27th/28th but just knowing the best tv in da wurld is on it's way, that's enuf to make me happy for about a minute today.
post #3242 of 4715
Got my TV up and running on Saturday (55").

Didn't even check the firmware version.

Have a HDMI SA8300 box and have no audio problems (that I could notice). I do not have any external speakers hooked up yet.

Watched Pandorum in HD last night and it almost looked like you were there in the room with them filming. Not sure if it was part of the closing credits but as the names scrolled up at the end, I noticed what appeared to be HEAVY blocky pixelation? I couldn't tell if it was designed or if the TV was bugging out? The credits roll in an all black background and the lettering is in green. Has anyone seen this movie, can you tell me if you notice this on the closing credits?

I do notice the TV might blur or artifact some on fast panning scenes (Tru motion is set to low by default). Threw in a dvd into the xbox which happened to be a old college football game from a few years ago. Noticed on passing, when the QB tried to zip it to the WR, the ball would blur noticeable. Should I be turning the trumotion off? I guess I could try it. Also, the info button showed the output as 480P. Shouldn't it be upconverting to 1080P?

Lastly, on certain commercials, they would have an almost all white background and I would notice that it starts really bright and then dims noticeably, in an instant. is this normal?

Any input would be great. Thank you.

Edit- I must say overall I am impressed with this set. Big Step up from what I had before!
post #3243 of 4715
i've owned the same tv about two weeks now and regardless of what settings you tweak, the consesus seems to be to turn off the 240hz option, except when watching sports....

if you leave it on for regular viewing, the people look like cardboard cutouts and the overall feeling looks like you're watching something filmed on a camcorder....

really odd...lol

i have the SA8300HD DVR box from Cablevision and i have it currently set to '1080i' and 'Normal' so anything 1080 is broadcast correctly, but any non-hd chans will coming with the borders on the left and right (but you can select zoom or stretch on these if you like too)
post #3244 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grakken View Post

Got my TV up and running on Saturday (55").

Didn't even check the firmware version.

Have a HDMI SA8300 box and have no audio problems (that I could notice). I do not have any external speakers hooked up yet.

Watched Pandorum in HD last night and it almost looked like you were there in the room with them filming. Not sure if it was part of the closing credits but as the names scrolled up at the end, I noticed what appeared to be HEAVY blocky pixelation? I couldn't tell if it was designed or if the TV was bugging out? The credits roll in an all black background and the lettering is in green. Has anyone seen this movie, can you tell me if you notice this on the closing credits?

I do notice the TV might blur or artifact some on fast panning scenes (Tru motion is set to low by default). Threw in a dvd into the xbox which happened to be a old college football game from a few years ago. Noticed on passing, when the QB tried to zip it to the WR, the ball would blur noticeable. Should I be turning the trumotion off? I guess I could try it. Also, the info button showed the output as 480P. Shouldn't it be upconverting to 1080P?

Lastly, on certain commercials, they would have an almost all white background and I would notice that it starts really bright and then dims noticeably, in an instant. is this normal?

Any input would be great. Thank you.

Edit- I must say overall I am impressed with this set. Big Step up from what I had before!

Inputting your AV equipment into an AVR usually helps in the upconverting of different source materials to the LG.
post #3245 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Inputting your AV equipment into an AVR usually helps in the upconverting of different source materials to the LG.

Thats the plan but for right now i am stuck with the crappy TV speakers.
post #3246 of 4715
I've read a lot in this thread but perhaps I missed what I was looking for.

I just purchased a 55LH90 and hope to get it in the next week or so. I have no calibration experience nor equipment and do not intend to hire anyone to calibrate the set. What are the key adjustments for a novice to make out of the box? It looks like unlocking THX mode and making a few minor tweaks is the best option for someone of my experience level. Would that be fair to say?

Thanks!
post #3247 of 4715
How do you find the firmware version for your LH90?
post #3248 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by cool_case View Post

How do you find the firmware version for your LH90?


Hit menu on the remote x1 them move to the "Option" but don't hit "enter" Hit"Fav/Mark" x7 times

Then you should see this screen



Dose any one know if this is the newest version?
post #3249 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by zman519 View Post

Hit menu on the remote x1 them move to the "Option" but don't hit "enter" Hit"Fav/Mark" x7 times

Then you should see this screen



Dose any one know if this is the newest version?

This is the newest I've heard of. But, look at the label closely - now if we could only find the newer versions of these files! USB. Download.
post #3250 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Firmware 3.07, that's on my July build is still available with the Menu Menu trick, but any Firmware since, requires a Special Remote to get to the SM. This was why we told anyone with the 3.07 and no lip sync issues (They were using a AVR or just didn't have the problem) to leave it alone if they want to access the SM. Even with access to the SM, usually we're told to not mess around with it unless you know what you're doing, and to definitely write down any values of anything before changing them.

The Problem with your 2 Point calibration system, you're only affecting the 20% and 80% areas, when the biggest problem with the xxLH90s is the 90% area. Using the THX system, the IRE's are pretty well flat from 100IRE to 30IRE, and not quite so flat down to 10IRE. Try putting the THX IRE values in one of the Expert Modes, along with your CMS values and see if this doesn't give you a better picture. This way, LG has done alot of the calibration work already. From 100IRE to 10IRE, Blue is also flat but boosted above the Red and Green - for those of us who like the Blue/White look, it gives us the PQ we prefer. Putting the THX values in the Expert Mode, you can tone down the Blue to your liking.

Have you found your build date yet on the back Info Plate?

I have Firmware 3.07 like you said and it's the August Build. I'll try carrying over the 10-point IRE setting from THX and compare them to my 2-point. Most of the values are at 0 and others don't seem like they've strayed too far from 0 so I don't see how it could possibly be better but alright, I'll try.

I've mentioned this before but it would be great if someone could translate my 2-point settings into 10-point. That way, I can even further improve on them. It's impossible to start from nothing and calibrate 10-point by eye like I did 2-point so that's why I stick with that. Somebody told me it isn't but I think it is - is it possible?

And about the lag that occurs often with 720p output, is there any way to fix that in the "Menu Menu" options? I saw separate settings there for content of different resolutions so maybe by tampering with one of those? It's a peculiar problem to exist without being fixable.. It would make more sense if this were the case with 1080p but I'm assuming that this happens because of the upscaling the TV must do I guess.

EDIT: So I tried the THX 10-point settings mixed with all my others. I of course made a few adjustments with those other settings (closer to my old settings - Gamma on Medium, a bit more contrast, etc..) to compensate for the change, and I was actually surprised that the result wasn't that bad. Nonetheless, I like my 2-point a lot more. With the THX IRE, the picture was a bit dull in every sense. The glowing whites in the fire of an explosion were dimmed and had a greenish tint to them (eww) and just in general, differences on the face (blush, paleness, makeup) blended more into one instead of a more detailed contrast (hence "dull"). In general, stuff like the glowing sky next to the sun wouldn't be glaring like it should, so yeah, just that sort of lack would effect the overall picture as well in the same terms. If in my 2-point settings it looks too red (which I can see possible), you can do multiple things. Lower the red by a little, turn Color Gamut to normal instead of wide, lower the Red contrast, and there you go. Since it wasn't so bad though, it made me realize the potential of the 10-point settings even more. It'd be amazing if someone could make a 10-point equivalent of my 2-point.

My 2-point IRE:
Either -
Red Contrast: 21
Green Contrast: 3
Blue Contrast: 25
Red Brightness: -45
Green Brightness: -42
Blue Brightness" -44
- where I have set Gamma to Low with a few other changes to my previous settings

OR -
Red Contrast: 21
Green Contrast: 8
Blue Contrast: 24
Red Brightness: 3
Green Brightness: 6
Blue Brightness: 4
- more like with my older settings

*I'd prefer it be done with the first one but, whichever is easier would also be great.
post #3251 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

This is the newest I've heard of. But, look at the label closely - now if we could only find the newer versions of these files! USB. Download.

Yep that was the first thing i thought of & i don't understand all the ppl talking about Techs having remotes & gizmos to upgrade the firmware When the menu talks about "Memory Card" i'm thinking that's a UBS drive
post #3252 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by zman519 View Post

Hit menu on the remote x1 them move to the "Option" but don't hit "enter" Hit"Fav/Mark" x7 times

Then you should see this screen



Dose any one know if this is the newest version?

Thanks much, zman!! That's my version too.
post #3253 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

This is the newest I've heard of. But, look at the label closely - now if we could only find the newer versions of these files! USB. Download.

Heh - yeah!!

What would one wish for in a newer firmware?
post #3254 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by cool_case View Post

Heh - yeah!!

What would wish for in a newer firmware?

Well for one an option to put the clock in 24 time mode

It drives me crazy that electronics are made that don't have an option for 12 & 24 hour time. IMO people that cant get 24 time must not know how to count to 24 Why the heck do we use 12 hour time any how we live in a 24 7 would of trading in Houg Kong flying over a half dozen time zones in a few hours, i just don't get it (Ok end off topic ranting sorry)
post #3255 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Typhoon859 View Post

I have Firmware 3.07 like you said and it's the August Build. I'll try carrying over the 10-point IRE setting from THX and compare them to my 2-point. Most of the values are at 0 and others don't seem like they've strayed too far from 0 so I don't see how it could possibly be better but alright, I'll try.

I've mentioned this before but it would be great if someone could translate my 2-point settings into 10-point. That way, I can even further improve on them. It's impossible to start from nothing and calibrate 10-point by eye like I did 2-point so that's why I stick with that. Somebody told me it isn't but I think it is - is it possible?

And about the lag that occurs often with 720p output, is there any way to fix that in the "Menu Menu" options? I saw separate settings there for content of different resolutions so maybe by tampering with one of those? It's a peculiar problem to exist without being fixable.. It would make more sense if this were the case with 1080p but I'm assuming that this happens because of the upscaling the TV must do I guess.

EDIT: So I tried the THX 10-point settings mixed with all my others. I of course made a few adjustments with those other settings (closer to my old settings - Gamma on Medium, a bit more contrast, etc..) to compensate for the change, and I was actually surprised that the result wasn't that bad. Nonetheless, I like my 2-point a lot more. With the THX IRE, the picture was a bit dull in every sense. The glowing whites in the fire of an explosion were dimmed and had a greenish tint to them (eww) and just in general, differences on the face (blush, paleness, makeup) blended more into one instead of a more detailed contrast (hence "dull"). In general, stuff like the glowing sky next to the sun wouldn't be glaring like it should, so yeah, just that sort of lack would effect the overall picture as well in the same terms. If in my 2-point settings it looks too red (which I can see possible), you can do multiple things. Lower the red by a little, turn Color Gamut to normal instead of wide, lower the Red contrast, and there you go. Since it wasn't so bad though, it made me realize the potential of the 10-point settings even more. It'd be amazing if someone could make a 10-point equivalent of my 2-point.

My 2-point IRE:
Either -
Red Contrast: 21
Green Contrast: 3
Blue Contrast: 25
Red Brightness: -45
Green Brightness: -42
Blue Brightness" -44
- where I have set Gamma to Low with a few other changes to my previous settings

OR -
Red Contrast: 21
Green Contrast: 8
Blue Contrast: 24
Red Brightness: 3
Green Brightness: 6
Blue Brightness: 4
- more like with my older settings

*I'd prefer it be done with the first one but, whichever is easier would also be great.

All the THX CMS values are Zeroes, but I find it hard to believe the IREs are also mostly Zeroes. In my THX IREs and others who posted their THX IREs there's maybe 5 or 6 Zeroes. Did you watch the THX(User) Mode in comparison to the Expert Mode you transferred the values to? The other problem you have to alleviate is when comparing the 2 Modes, you have to step through the Game and Sport Modes that are overly bright. To cut down on this problem, I have the same settings that I use for the Backlight, Contrast, etc from the THX up to the Expert Modes the same.
It appears that your August build is from the older builds. Once the Firmware changed up from the 3.07, it seems that this is when the builds must have changed internally?
post #3256 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

All the THX CMS values are Zeroes, but I find it hard to believe the IREs are also mostly Zeroes. In my THX IREs and others who posted their THX IREs there's maybe 5 or 6 Zeroes. Did you watch the THX(User) Mode in comparison to the Expert Mode you transferred the values to? The other problem you have to alleviate is when comparing the 2 Modes, you have to step through the Game and Sport Modes that are overly bright. To cut down on this problem, I have the same settings that I use for the Backlight, Contrast, etc from the THX up to the Expert Modes the same.
It appears that your August build is from the older builds. Once the Firmware changed up from the 3.07, it seems that this is when the builds must have changed internally?

I just transferred the THX IRE settings to Expert so that I wouldn't need to change between two other settings. My main focus now I guess is to turn my 2-point into 10-point and figure out how to solve my 720p problem, possibly with something from the extra Menu options ("Menu Menu").
post #3257 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwest2 View Post

I've read a lot in this thread but perhaps I missed what I was looking for.

I just purchased a 55LH90 and hope to get it in the next week or so. I have no calibration experience nor equipment and do not intend to hire anyone to calibrate the set. What are the key adjustments for a novice to make out of the box? It looks like unlocking THX mode and making a few minor tweaks is the best option for someone of my experience level. Would that be fair to say?

Thanks!

Out of the box, I tried the picture wizard and was happy with that. Put is on expert 1 or 2 and try that. Next I bought Spears and Munsil's calibration disc. That works better. Picture wizard is pretty close though to Spears and Munsil. The picture wizard puts contrast about 5-6 higher and color one or two higher. So for a reasonable out of the box picture put it on expert 1, use the picture wizard, dial contrast down 5 more color 2 more and you are done. Do not mess with the 10 point IRE or the CMS settings unless you become versed in calibration or hire one. I've tried posted settings but find I get the most satisfying picture at default of zero for IRE and CMS with the spears and munsil disc.

The picture is fantastic and I've seen no reason to invest in grey scale calibration (the set passes grey scale tests on Spears and Munsil out of the box at default of zero). Only you can be the judge however, so do above and decide if you want to invest in further tweaking. I'd also wait a month before doing any paid for calibration if you decide that route.
post #3258 of 4715
interesting to read....i hadn't heard of that calibaration disc...i was looking for the older Avia II or DVDE stuff....

i wasn't too happy with the picture wizard either.... what's worked for me best right now is just modding the THX mode and upping the brightness a bit...

i'm reading good things about the EyeOne LT meter....$150 bucks is not bad....and should provide a better pic than the pic wizard and other software....

defin in budget, without haven't to go all out for $400 professionally done...(especially when you got 3 tvs you want to calibrate)
post #3259 of 4715
Just got a 55" LH90 and it has the 3.07 firmware.

I have a Spears & Munsil Blu-Ray HD Benchmark disc and on the Contrast screen no matter what settings I use, I can't seem to get the white bars at the bottom to become distinct - all I get are the 4 left white bars and they are mostly washed out, and after that the rest are invisible. What setting do I need to fiddle with to get the whites from clipping so much?

Now, as for sync, I was getting HORRIBLE sync problems from my LG 370, so I ended up running an optical cable direct from the 370 to my receiver which "fixed" it. I'm also getting a very subtle (but noticeable) audio lag from my DirecTV HD receiver when running it through the TV.

Now, I could run another cable direct from the sat box to the receiver, and just avoid using the audio out from the TV, but when I get around to plugging in a PS3 or something else through HDMI into the TV, I'm out of optical inputs on my receiver (it's an older model that only supports DD), so ideally I'd like to just use the single audio out from the TV and do everything else with HDMI into the TV.

What is the prescribed method of getting the sync fixed? Does the 3.17 firmware resolve this or do I need a new main board or what?
post #3260 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stele View Post

Just got a 55" LH90 and it has the 3.07 firmware.

I have a Spears & Munsil Blu-Ray HD Benchmark disc and on the Contrast screen no matter what settings I use, I can't seem to get the white bars at the bottom to become distinct - all I get are the 4 left white bars and they are mostly washed out, and after that the rest are invisible. What setting do I need to fiddle with to get the whites from clipping so much?

Now, as for sync, I was getting HORRIBLE sync problems from my LG 370, so I ended up running an optical cable direct from the 370 to my receiver which "fixed" it. I'm also getting a very subtle (but noticeable) audio lag from my DirecTV HD receiver when running it through the TV.

Now, I could run another cable direct from the sat box to the receiver, and just avoid using the audio out from the TV, but when I get around to plugging in a PS3 or something else through HDMI into the TV, I'm out of optical inputs on my receiver (it's an older model that only supports DD), so ideally I'd like to just use the single audio out from the TV and do everything else with HDMI into the TV.

What is the prescribed method of getting the sync fixed? Does the 3.17 firmware resolve this or do I need a new main board or what?

I would call LG ASAP and demand a fix/firmware update

Let as all know they do to help you
post #3261 of 4715
That's odd that you would get such an old firmware at this point. Might have been older stock. What is the build date on your set? It says on the back of the TV on a sticker. Most recent purchases have the newest firmware applied (3.17.0) including mine, which is a January 2010 build.

But yeah, definitely call LG and get the firmware updated. 3.13.1 was the first firmware that addressed the lip sync issues.
post #3262 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by glangford View Post

Out of the box, I tried the picture wizard and was happy with that. Put is on expert 1 or 2 and try that. Next I bought Spears and Munsil's calibration disc. That works better. Picture wizard is pretty close though to Spears and Munsil. The picture wizard puts contrast about 5-6 higher and color one or two higher. So for a reasonable out of the box picture put it on expert 1, use the picture wizard, dial contrast down 5 more color 2 more and you are done. Do not mess with the 10 point IRE or the CMS settings unless you become versed in calibration or hire one. I've tried posted settings but find I get the most satisfying picture at default of zero for IRE and CMS with the spears and munsil disc.

The picture is fantastic and I've seen no reason to invest in grey scale calibration (the set passes grey scale tests on Spears and Munsil out of the box at default of zero). Only you can be the judge however, so do above and decide if you want to invest in further tweaking. I'd also wait a month before doing any paid for calibration if you decide that route.

Thanks for the help. I will try this and also compare it to the THX mode and pick the best.

Hope the 55LH90 I just ordered from Beach Camera is a Jan 2010 build with 3.17
post #3263 of 4715
There is *no* true fix for lip sync-- the f/w update is only a "kludge", which you can effect on your own.

Read my earlier posts...
post #3264 of 4715
Went back and looked through some of the other posts that talk about sync issues. It looks my best "solution" for now is to just connect both devices up through optical to my HT and then at some point upgrade my HT to one that does HDMI. Their sync "fix" in the firmware doesn't sound like a true fix to me either, since I won't accept anything less than 5.1 audio coming out of it.

Is there any other reason why I might want the new firmware?

As for my calibration issue - anyone have any ideas on why the contrast test on the Spears & Munsil would be so clipped? No manner of adjusting brightness or contrast made any difference. Wondering if something else about the set is messed up.
post #3265 of 4715
What player are you using? It's probably on the device side and/or you have your color space ranges mismatched. If you're using the LG BD370, look in the player settings and make sure the color output is set to YCbCr and make sure your LH90's "Black Level" setting is set to Low (it's in the expert settings).
post #3266 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

What player are you using? It's probably on the device side and/or you have your color space ranges mismatched. If you're using the LG BD370, look in the player settings and make sure the color output is set to YCbCr and make sure your LH90's "Black Level" setting is set to Low (it's in the expert settings).

The 370 is definitely set to YCbCr but I'll check on the Black Level.
post #3267 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stele View Post

The 370 is definitely set to YCbCr but I'll check on the Black Level.

Unfortunately, I have read that the LG Blu ray players also had lip sync issues this year. I almost got the 390 until I read that. I ended up with the PS3 instead.
post #3268 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick_WI View Post

Unfortunately, I have read that the LG Blu ray players also had lip sync issues this year. I almost got the 390 until I read that. I ended up with the PS3 instead.

I didn't see any sync issues when going direct optical from the 370 to my HT/receiver. Though I haven't played a BR movie with it yet.
post #3269 of 4715
[quote=Stele;18320426]Just got a 55" LH90 and it has the 3.07 firmware.

Firmware 3.07 is on and upto the August builds. It is the LAST Firmware where you can access the Service Menu using the Menu/Menu method. After this only the Service Techie with a Special Remote can get into the SM. So unless you have a really serious problem you can't work around, you may want to leave the 3.07 Firmware inplace.
post #3270 of 4715
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stele View Post

......
What setting do I need to fiddle with to get the whites from clipping so much?
.....

Contrast. But, first adjust the low end (i.e. , the black bars) with the Brightness adjustment.
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