or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Offical Sharp Aquos LC-XXE77U/LC-CXX77UN Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Offical Sharp Aquos LC-XXE77U/LC-CXX77UN Owners Thread - Page 68

post #2011 of 2034
Hi - I've owned an LC-C6577UM for a couple of years and am now in a new home where I will be mounting it on a wall. I ordered the Sanus VMPL3 wall mount, and read that the Sharp requires 10mm bolts for installation. So I went to the local hardware store and bought sets of 10mm bolts in both 1.0mm and 1.25mm thread distance, but neither seem to work in the VESA mounting holes on the back of the TV. I'm prepared to order Sanus's M10Kit for TV's that require 10mm bolts. It appears to include 50mm length 10mm bolts and spacers, which I imagine would be helpful for creating a little more wire space in the back of the TV. But I'm baffled why standard 1.25mm thread bolts would not work.

Can anyone advise if the mounting holes use some other thread pitch than 1.00 or 1.25mm?

What mount did you use to wall mount your TV?

Any tips for this?

Thanks!
post #2012 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregy View Post

What mount did you use to wall mount your TV?
Any tips for this?
Thanks!

I bought my wall mount from monoprice, it didn't require me to do anything special to attach it to the TV that I can recall. It allows me to pull the TV out from the wall and angle it, which we do on occasion to watch the TV from the dining room, and it was only about $50 if I recall correctly.
post #2013 of 2034
Thanks, Barry!

Further on my wall mount question -

My TV is the Costco variation of the model (the UM). I've since discovered that a 3/8" 16 thread pitch (coarse) bolt will fit and partially screw in - about 5 turns of the bolt, or about 3/4" deep. This is not the full depth of the socket, but so far it's the only bolt that fit.

I'm asking Costco, Sanus and Sharp for support as well. No doubt Sharp will say to buy only their mount, and Sanus will say to buy their accessory kit - but based on the specification of an M10 bolt, and that fact that no M10 bolt I've been able to find will fit yet a 3/8" will (at least part way) I'm still baffled.

Any other thoughts? Anyone with the Costco model who can advise?
post #2014 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregy View Post

My TV is the Costco variation of the model (the UM). I've since discovered that a 3/8" 16 thread pitch (coarse) bolt will fit and partially screw in - about 5 turns of the bolt, or about 3/4" deep. This is not the full depth of the socket, but so far it's the only bolt that fit.
I'm asking Costco, Sanus and Sharp for support as well. No doubt Sharp will say to buy only their mount, and Sanus will say to buy their accessory kit - but based on the specification of an M10 bolt, and that fact that no M10 bolt I've been able to find will fit yet a 3/8" will (at least part way) I'm still baffled.
[/quote

Got my question answered - it's M10, but 1.50mm thread pitch. Took a combination of Sharp and Sanus to get to that piece of information.

Thanks!
Greg
post #2015 of 2034
Hi everyone,

I have the LC-46E77U TV and it's being quite problematic when watching TV from my cable box 8300HD connected via HDMI.

I bought it 3+ years ago. I've always the the problem, but thought it was my cable box (as it works perfectly fine with my computer connected via HDMI on 1920x1080 Res).

Here's the problem:
When I change channels from a channel that's HD (1080i or 720p) to a standard definition channel (480) the TV goes snowy and non-responsive. I have to turn off the TV, or choose a different input, then switch it back to the input with my cable box (connected via HDMI cable). I've tried all the HDMI ports on the TV without any difference. I've tried different cable boxes and HDMI cables.

When I channels from HD to HD or SD to SD, there's no problem. The channels switch without problems. It's only when switching from HD to SD.

The cable box is a 8300HD from Rogers. (I've tried 3 of these boxes and was able to duplicate the problem with all 3).

I've upgraded the firmware to the latest one posted on Sharp's website.

Thanks in advance.
post #2016 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregy View Post

What mount did you use to wall mount your TV?
Any tips for this?
Thanks!

I have used the Premier Mount CTM-655 for the last 2 years: http://www.premiermountsstore.com/premiermountstiltingwallmountforsharp65in.flatpanelsctm-655.aspx

It's rock solid for my LC-65E77UM, but does not offer articulation. I'm also not sure what bolt size they are. Sorry not to be more helpful. smile.gif
post #2017 of 2034
I have read through quite a bit of this and a few of the other threads regarding the LC60E77UN - and the end result is my mind is now numb. smile.gif

So - I am wondering - the short version... is there any reason I should not get this display? I have a chance to get one for $650 that is 11 months old (I've seen the receipt). The owner is going to a projector in his HT room. I have tested it for dead pixels (none) and brightness variations along the edges (very negligible). I see refurbs online from reputable sellers for twice the price.

Do any of you from this thread still have your units? What are your thoughts now after years of use?

Thanks in advance.
post #2018 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post

Do any of you from this thread still have your units? What are your thoughts now after years of use?
Thanks in advance.

Still very happy with mine...

It doesn't have the best scaler and it's pretty big, so you won't confuse SDTV for HDTV, but HDTV and Blu-Ray look fantastic and SDTV is just fine.
Not a single glitch in 3(?) years of heavy use in our main living/family room. I'd do it again wink.gif
post #2019 of 2034
$650 for a 60" is a steal. The only issue I have is it does not handle 480i SD material very well. There maybe some HDMI handshake issue but it maybe specific to the video card on my HTPC. No other problems what so ever. Make sure that it is still covered under warranty (at least 2 weeks).
post #2020 of 2034
Ok, so I have had it since Thursday and am enjoying it quite a bit. Picked up Star Trek on BR as well and was completely floored by it. Beautiful picture.

I have 1 issue I would like to resolve if possible - wanted to get feedback from folks here on it:

While watching any source - once or twice through the movie the tv will change itself from user-defined settings to dynamic. Minor annoyance - but still annoying. Any way to get it to stop that?

Also - I would love to calibrate this thing properly - but am not going to shell out 70 to 115$ for a DVE disc I am going to use once. Does anyone have any better sources? Is it rentable (Blockbuster doesn't have it)? Is there anyone in Chicagoland who would loan me their copy in exchange for a steak or something? smile.gif

Thanks!
post #2021 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post

Ok, so I have had it since Thursday and am enjoying it quite a bit. Picked up Star Trek on BR as well and was completely floored by it. Beautiful picture.
I have 1 issue I would like to resolve if possible - wanted to get feedback from folks here on it:
While watching any source - once or twice through the movie the tv will change itself from user-defined settings to dynamic. Minor annoyance - but still annoying. Any way to get it to stop that?
Also - I would love to calibrate this thing properly - but am not going to shell out 70 to 115$ for a DVE disc I am going to use once. Does anyone have any better sources? Is it rentable (Blockbuster doesn't have it)? Is there anyone in Chicagoland who would loan me their copy in exchange for a steak or something? smile.gif
Thanks!

Rather odd about it switching into "Dyanmic" mode on its own(?) Are you sure that you don't have the "Auto Brightness" or "Power Saver" engaged and that is what is tweaking the picture(?)

As far as calibration goes, many Blue-Ray, and DVD discs, have a "THX Optimizer" in their Set-Up menu, give that a shot.
post #2022 of 2034
OPC is off, Active Contrast is off, all Power Controls are off or disabled. I've got it as manual as I can get it to, I believe. Not sure what else I can do heh smile.gif

I will see if I can find a BR with the THX bit in it... thanks for the suggestion.
post #2023 of 2034
Beuller... Beuller... ?
post #2024 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post

OPC is off, Active Contrast is off, all Power Controls are off or disabled. I've got it as manual as I can get it to, I believe. Not sure what else I can do heh smile.gif
I will see if I can find a BR with the THX bit in it... thanks for the suggestion.

First, Spears and Munsil bluray still sells for $25: http://www.amazon.com/Spears-High-Definition-Benchmark-Blu-ray-Edition/dp/B001UM29OC/ref=pd_cp_mov_1

Second, switching AV Modes during normal watching without changing inputs is not normal functioning. Are you sure you're not getting some kind of remote control problems, or accidentally changing something as you watch? Alternately, I was thinking about this and wondering if you might be having some sort of odd HDMI-CEC issue. Turn off any HDMI-CEC on your AV Receiver and TV and see if that helps.
post #2025 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlsteele View Post

First, Spears and Munsil bluray still sells for $25:

Yeah, but that's not DVE. I will give it a look anyhow.
Quote:
Second, switching AV Modes during normal watching without changing inputs is not normal functioning. Are you sure you're not getting some kind of remote control problems, or accidentally changing something as you watch?

I put the remote in a drawer in another room... it still switches. frown.gif I set the input, I watch. Other than pushing pause on the DVR or the BR or the HD-DVD... I change nothing... sitting there on the couch and it up and changes the video setting - always to Dynamic.
Quote:
Alternately, I was thinking about this and wondering if you might be having some sort of odd HDMI-CEC issue. Turn off any HDMI-CEC on your AV Receiver and TV and see if that helps.

My HDMI cabling goes from the source to the TV and no further. All my audio is either coax or TOSLink from the source to the inputs on the receiver. The TV and the receiver do not share signal paths at all. I have no HDMI going into or out of the receiver (HK AVR 645).
post #2026 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post

Yeah, but that's not DVE. I will give it a look anyhow.

I realize that, but as you realize, the DVE bluray isn't exactly available for normal sale anymore. I believe you can rent it from Netflix if that helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by srobak View Post

I put the remote in a drawer in another room... it still switches. frown.gif I set the input, I watch. Other than pushing pause on the DVR or the BR or the HD-DVD... I change nothing... sitting there on the couch and it up and changes the video setting - always to Dynamic.
My HDMI cabling goes from the source to the TV and no further. All my audio is either coax or TOSLink from the source to the inputs on the receiver. The TV and the receiver do not share signal paths at all. I have no HDMI going into or out of the receiver (HK AVR 645).

This doesn't sound like a normal function issue. I would contact Sharp directly and see if I could get a tech on the line to sort through the problem with. Have you tried updating the firmware?
post #2027 of 2034
Quote:
Originally Posted by nlsteele View Post

I realize that, but as you realize, the DVE bluray isn't exactly available for normal sale anymore. I believe you can rent it from Netflix if that helps.

Cool... I will also look into that as well... thanks for the further info! smile.gif
Quote:
This doesn't sound like a normal function issue. I would contact Sharp directly and see if I could get a tech on the line to sort through the problem with. Have you tried updating the firmware?

First thing I did was check firmware... it is current. I wonder if they will give me the time of day over the phone with it being out of warranty. I will try and report back.
post #2028 of 2034
Fyi for 52E77UN owners; I lost my picture and sound when trying to power up the set. Getting the code 1 blink of power and opc followed by 2 blink of power led. This happens to me 3 months after my warranty, so I'll be doing my own diagnostic work once I get a chance. I can't seem to find a service and repair manual, but have a feeling it'll be a power supply culprit. You can hear the set internally "click" on upon initial power up followed by two clicks with 10-15 seconds and again about the same duration before the leds begin flashing until the power button on the side of the unit it triggered. Hitting the power button on the set will begin a boot cycle again, but trying to power off isn't responsive unless you hold down the power button for approximately 10 seconds. The remote's power button does nothing once the set is powered on, but it will power on the set upon initial boot up. I've attempted leaving it unplugged for nearly a day, but was unsuccessful. "factory reset" has not been of any help either. Next step will be testing voltages at the power supply. Here's to hoping I won't need to look any further! Prior to this issue, the set worked fine roughly 18hrs before hand.

I've decided to post this merely for the fact that I couldn't find anything regarding these sets having this particular issue. Perhaps I'll be back with some useful info for others to utilize rather than being all upset as I am. It seems a lot of other sharp units have failing power boards as well. What's really upsetting me is the lack of 52 inches to watch boardwalk empire and the walking dead. :-\ I'll probably update within a day or two.

Neno
post #2029 of 2034


Update: I took the time to at least take the back cover off and take a peek around in case it was something totally obvious... And it was. A cap blew out on the power board, so I'm a bit happier knowing I *do* have a chance at a cheap repair. Trouble is getting the right cap without having any known, reliable, resources for such parts.

Neno
post #2030 of 2034
Update again: Replaced cap (Family friend has a TV repair shop and fortunately capacitors) and held volume up and channel down when plugging in. The good news is I have a solid green light... The bad news is I still have no image or sound and the power button (on the unit) does absolutely nothing. I have to hold the set's power button for 5-10 seconds to power off. Powers up just fine (you can hear the click, no additional clicks) but immediately goes into a unresponsive state. I'm kind of lost from here as I don't have any repair information.
post #2031 of 2034
6-25-13 SOLVED:

221k (220pF, 1KV) capacitor. The info was barely legible on the burned component. A hi-res scan did the trick.

=====================================================================================


Hi,

New to the forum as I recently acquired an LC-40E77UN (60Hz) that I was told had no picture, but had sound. From experience with other LCDs, it seemed like another case of bad caps to me.

I removed the back cover and plugged it in. I saw arching under a metal shield on the power supply (RDENCA354WJQZ / Delta DPS 208BPA). I disconnected the power and easily tracked down a BUBAR (burned up beyond all recognition) capacitor at C7816.

Does anyone know/have the info on that little gem, or possibly a Delta board schematic? I have searched and checked a few

places online with no luck. The Sharp service manual does not have the Delta power supply schematic.

I did hook it up to cable afterwards, plugged it in, and it displayed a black/white static screen, AND a nice clear Channel 34 TV

station logo for a few seconds before blinking out to a black screen. I did not have time to switch to check the Channel 3 cable box feed.

The power (P) blink code repeats 2x per second (bad power supply).
OPC blinks once every two seconds.

Two other Delta power supplies use an almost identical PCB form factor, so it may be possible that the same C7816 capacitor is

on the following power supplies:

Sharp Power Supply Board Part# DPS-219AP A, RDENCA298WJQZ
Sharp Power Supply Board Part # DPS-226AP / RDENCA334WJQZ

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Replacement boards are in the $60 range, but where's the fun in that?

In the attached photo:
Top left: The power board, DPS-208BP (RDENCA354WJQZ)
Bottom left (rotated 90 degrees): Burned out capacitor at C7816
Right side: Underneath the circuit board at C7816

Created with GIMP
Edited by AdvDes - 6/25/13 at 3:57pm
post #2032 of 2034
Created with GIMP

The 220pF 1kV (221K 1kV) fried capacitor.
Edited by AdvDes - 6/26/13 at 5:47pm
post #2033 of 2034
I just picked up a 60inch used, so was interested to see the evolution of this tv. Appreciate the recent posts on diagnosing and fixing problems. I am sure it will come in handy.
post #2034 of 2034
I'm due for a little diagnosing. Beginning to see screen flickering. Almost looks like the CCFL are on the way out. I remember some oddball post about using genuine Sharp LEDs for backlight, but can't find anything on it anymore. Regardless, my lc52e77un is running my PC games, ps3, and cable. Everything runs through my R990. Minimal issues. I've read a few posts about 24hz/60hz issues, which I haven't experienced experienced. Also, 120hz via PC isn't possible.

Win 7 ultimate
i2500k w/ sapphire 7950 oc'd 8gb 1600 ram
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Offical Sharp Aquos LC-XXE77U/LC-CXX77UN Owners Thread