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Official Onkyo TX-SR707 Thread [No Price Talk] - Page 60

post #1771 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by goros View Post

monkaquinas, When you ran your multi-eq, what did it turn your sub to? Did it set it at a -db or +db? Did it have the distance right?

Also, what is your crossover set to on your sub (the knob physically on the sub)? It needs to be turned all the way up to it's max (100-150hz usually) to allow the crossover from your AVR to function without any "interference".

I'm betting you heard port noise (chuffing) from the sub. Best way around this is to turn down the gain on your sub (the physical knob again on the sub) until your audyssey shows you at 0.0 and your distance is set correctly (it took me 6 times to get it dialed in, so be ready for some work). This should keep your sub essentially from being turned up too loud to perform properly at that level. If it still does it, you may just have an underpowered, underperforming, and/or too small of a sub to handle what you are sending it.

95% that it isn't the 707, it's probably the sub, or a setting that isn't tuned correctly.

For proper sub performance, you set your sub to or above the crossover from your main speakers. For example, my speakers are all 80hz crossovers, so my knob on my sub is turned to 120hz, but the crossover in the AVR is just slightly above that of my speakers, so it's at 90hz (I have reasons for doing this). If your crossover on your speakers is 120hz, you leave your knob up as far as it can go, and set the avr to 120hz. You don't need to re-run audyssey if you change the crossover point, as it would just reset it on you anyway. You can change any of your speaker crossovers and distances at any time and it will maintain your multi-eq settings.

This is great advice and one of the simplest explanations I've read on this setting

My issue with Multi-eq is the sub level. My last calibration set my sub to -7db, which was within 3db of all other speakers (it always configures mine in the negative). However, to even achieve -7 my sub knob on the front was set between 1 and 2 (on a scale of 0-10). The crossover knob on the back of the sub was set to max (120Hz I believe).

I guess the issue is my 707 views the sub as over powerful. For the first few calibrations it always set it at -15db. The interesting thing is, with my old Onkyo TX SR573, my sub volume was controlled completed by the sub dial, at at volume 4 it sounded perfect.

All that to say its a bi*ch for me to calibrate/balance my sub so far!!
post #1772 of 3560
I started reading the thread and 50+ pages is brutal to search for an answer, so I inquire of you gurus:

I've had my 707 for a week and it does great with ovies and cable via HDMI. DVDs good via HDMI and coax digital. I've spent a good bit of time reading and experimenting. For the most part, I feel like I have a handle on it.

What's not right is playing of CDs.

I am using the 707 pre- outs to a couple amps.
I have front speakers set up full range.
I've tried assorted modes but all are anemic with the CD player. I have a decent CD player - Jolida - and I thought direct or pure audio modes would be good but it just seems like there is no power there; the speakers are not being driven and are missing low end. Turning up the volume has little effect.

The headphone jack is putting out; sounds good with CD.

I've tried both the component audio in and coax digital from the CD player. I figured I wanted to use the DAC in the Jolida, so I was expecting component to work.

Just don't see what I am missing. If the CD player was having an issue, don't see why headphone jack would put out full spectrum sound.

Anything y'all can think of to check? I guess I will test hooking the front LR directly to the amp but since PSW and DVDs seem to be utilizing the pre- outs well... just don't get it.

This thing should be kickin' with redbook.
post #1773 of 3560
When I calibrated my speakers in my last house I had a center, front left, front right, and sub. When I plugged the mic in it would measure from ONLY these channels.

I just moved and for the time being only have my front left and front right speakers plugged in. I plugged the mic in to do the calibration and for some reason it tries to measure all the channels (goes from front left, to left height, to left wide, to left surround, to center, to front right, to right height, to right wide, to right surround, to sub.

What is up with this? It has never done this before, all I want it to do is measure the channels I have connected, not all the 'possible' channels.
post #1774 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

When I calibrated my speakers in my last house I had a center, front left, front right, and sub. When I plugged the mic in it would measure from ONLY these channels.

I just moved and for the time being only have my front left and front right speakers plugged in. I plugged the mic in to do the calibration and for some reason it tries to measure all the channels (goes from front left, to left height, to left wide, to left surround, to center, to front right, to right height, to right wide, to right surround, to sub.

What is up with this? It has never done this before, all I want it to do is measure the channels I have connected, not all the 'possible' channels.

It's just learning which speakers are connected...
post #1775 of 3560
I bought a TX-SR707 over over the holidays ($499 from Best Buy) and have recently hooked it up. As many users have complained, I am experiencing a clicking noise. In my case, it occurs whenever I use my Tivo remote to skip backwards or forwards. Additionally, the Tivo "bloop" no longer plays when I skip backwards or forwards (the bloop does play when I am in other Tivo menus). The clicking is very annoying and I miss my bloop!. I have tried changing the Listening Mode Presets as several of the other users have recommended, nut nothing has worked. I have a pretty basic set-up with a Tivo HD with two cable cards feeding into my AVR via HDMI and then HDMI feeding into my TV. My AVR is only hooked up to 3 speakers (Left/Center/Right). Any other suggestions that I can try to eliminate the clicking?

Thanks!
post #1776 of 3560
Wow $499 what a steal!

Anyways, ratdoc you were right, I guess I just didn't remember it doing that the first time I calibrated it at my other house, so thank you.

Second question- what volume do you guys normally listen at? I played a song (the receiver was set at 30) and I could barely tell that sound was coming out of the speakers. Right now I have it at 60 and it sounds fine, still a little quiet, is this normal? It was like this at the other house too.

Is it because my speakers are not the most efficient? (87db)
post #1777 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

Wow $499 what a steal!

Anyways, ratdoc you were right, I guess I just didn't remember it doing that the first time I calibrated it at my other house, so thank you.

Second question- what volume do you guys normally listen at? I played a song (the receiver was set at 30) and I could barely tell that sound was coming out of the speakers. Right now I have it at 60 and it sounds fine, still a little quiet, is this normal? It was like this at the other house too.

Is it because my speakers are not the most efficient? (87db)

That 'sounds' about right, I usually watch TV and movies at 55-60. Music usually 60-65 and occasionally 65-70.

I also got the same price at BB, plus got back a $50 gift card for using my BB credit card .
post #1778 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

Wow $499 what a steal!

Anyways, ratdoc you were right, I guess I just didn't remember it doing that the first time I calibrated it at my other house, so thank you.

Second question- what volume do you guys normally listen at? I played a song (the receiver was set at 30) and I could barely tell that sound was coming out of the speakers. Right now I have it at 60 and it sounds fine, still a little quiet, is this normal? It was like this at the other house too.

Is it because my speakers are not the most efficient? (87db)

I might be wrong here as everyone will have different level calibration and speakers, but for reference mine powers on at -32db. I'll watch TV anything from -40db to -20db (depending on the source). Movies will normally be -10db to -20db (bitstreamed blurays), and Sirius around 0.

Occasionally guitar hero goes to 0db+, until the wife gives me that look!
post #1779 of 3560
Here's my setup for one way I use the receiver:

Video:
Laptop DVI port -> DVI/HDMI cable -> Receiver AUX HDMI port

Audio:
Laptop mini stereo jack -> mini stereo/RCA Jacks cable -> Reciever AUX RCA audio jacks

If the receiver is on, and I connect the HDMI and then the analog stereo, the receiver shows the video and plays the analog stereo just fine. If I turn the receiver off, and then on again, the receiver passes the video, but says "No signal" for the audio. I can't get the audio to play unless I unplug the video and reconnect it.

Any ideas on how to work around this problem?

Thanks.
post #1780 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by goros View Post

monkaquinas, When you ran your multi-eq, what did it turn your sub to? Did it set it at a -db or +db? Did it have the distance right?

Also, what is your crossover set to on your sub (the knob physically on the sub)? It needs to be turned all the way up to it's max (100-150hz usually) to allow the crossover from your AVR to function without any "interference".

I'm betting you heard port noise (chuffing) from the sub. Best way around this is to turn down the gain on your sub (the physical knob again on the sub) until your audyssey shows you at 0.0 and your distance is set correctly (it took me 6 times to get it dialed in, so be ready for some work). This should keep your sub essentially from being turned up too loud to perform properly at that level. If it still does it, you may just have an underpowered, underperforming, and/or too small of a sub to handle what you are sending it.

95% that it isn't the 707, it's probably the sub, or a setting that isn't tuned correctly.

For proper sub performance, you set your sub to or above the crossover from your main speakers. For example, my speakers are all 80hz crossovers, so my knob on my sub is turned to 120hz, but the crossover in the AVR is just slightly above that of my speakers, so it's at 90hz (I have reasons for doing this). If your crossover on your speakers is 120hz, you leave your knob up as far as it can go, and set the avr to 120hz. You don't need to re-run audyssey if you change the crossover point, as it would just reset it on you anyway. You can change any of your speaker crossovers and distances at any time and it will maintain your multi-eq settings.

Thanks for quick reply Goros, you sound like you're on to my problem. I'm not sure what MultEQ set the Sub too. I'll have to check 2nite. I do know the Distance was spot on.

My Sub is the Onkyo SKW-820 it has only a Gain knob (Volume) and can handle 23Hz-150Hz.

First, I think I need to set all my speakers to 80Hz(THX), no need to re-run the MultEQ; correct? Second, I need to lower the Gain on the Sub and re-run MultEQ until it shows 0.0 for the Sub; correct?
post #1781 of 3560
I have had my receiver for a few weeks now and just noticed something when playing Uncharted 2 on the PS3. I also noticed it during a commercial when I was watching TV. When the screen image goes black I am left with gray artifacts on screen where the image was before.

For example, on the TV commercial the screen was all black and white text appeared on screen (something about stopping smoking.). The white text then moved down to fall off the bottom of the screen. This left a trail of gray behind where the white text touched. In Uncharted 2 when I go from the menu screen (very colorful) to the loading screen (all black with a tiny loading icon in the bottom right) I get these gray artifacts of the menu screen that display. They are quite prominent, even to the point that I can read the game title.

I had my video set to Through and changed it over to 1080p but no luck. Anyone else have this issue?

Brian
post #1782 of 3560
I ordered HD cable and a Pace TDC-776D PVR receiver recently. I have everything configured in advance of the provider arriving to do the install.
Do these cable boxes interface well with the receiver?

Thanks,

h-f
post #1783 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkaquinas View Post

Thanks for quick reply Goros, you sound like you're on to my problem. I'm not sure what MultEQ set the Sub too. I'll have to check 2nite. I do know the Distance was spot on.

My Sub is the Onkyo SKW-820 it has only a Gain knob (Volume) and can handle 23Hz-150Hz.

First, I think I need to set all my speakers to 80Hz(THX), no need to re-run the MultEQ; correct? Second, I need to lower the Gain on the Sub and re-run MultEQ until it shows 0.0 for the Sub; correct?


This 'Audyssey Set-Up Guide' was very helpful for me. If that isn't enough information you can read the 741 pg 'Official' Audyssey thread.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14456895
post #1784 of 3560
I have not connected it yet. I am in the process of registering it at Onkyo's web site. Can some help me out. Where is the product serial number?
post #1785 of 3560
I have an LG Plasma and a PC hooked up to the 707 via HDMI.

When the TV turns off, the Realtek HDMI driver on the PC crashes.

When the Blu Ray turns off I have no issue.

I have tweaked the HDMI control options from the Onkyo and from the TV. No matter how they are set, if the TV turns off, the Realtek driver crashes.

Any ideas?
post #1786 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by di410733 View Post

I just got the 707 on Monday, and hooked up my Oppo DV983 via a 1' hdmi cable. I'm experiencing a similar audio dropout from time to time when watching a dvd, and also see that "dialog: norm" message on the display when the dropout occurs. It doesn't happen very often (maybe 3-4 times per half-hour) and doesn't happen in the same place on the dvd (re-watched an episode and it failed in different places). I never had a problem with the Oppo hooked up directly to the tv. Did anyone ever find a solution to this problem, or do I "get" to send it back?

Ta!
Dan

ps For fun, I've changed the input port from the 1st HDMI input to the 3rd, in hope it might behave better, but I still get the occasional dropout...

For future readers - I'm following up on my post:

I researched other receivers in this price category here on AVSForum and found that they all seem to have similar problems on occasion, and there doesn't seem to be any product free of the issue. I have to conclude it's just the nature of the anti-consumer HDCP stuff that flakes out on occasion, and I couldn't see returning one product for another that is just as likely to have the same issue. My workaround was to hook up an optical toslink from the DVD player to the 707, and this has worked fine.

Dan
post #1787 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by kachoymonique View Post

I have not connected it yet. I am in the process of registering it at Onkyo's web site. Can some help me out. Where is the product serial number?

Under the front left speaker terminal
post #1788 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by lynx View Post

Under the front left speaker terminal

Or on the white label on the box.
post #1789 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by dweezle64 View Post

I bought a TX-SR707 over over the holidays ($499 from Best Buy) and have recently hooked it up. As many users have complained, I am experiencing a clicking noise. In my case, it occurs whenever I use my Tivo remote to skip backwards or forwards. Additionally, the Tivo "bloop" no longer plays when I skip backwards or forwards (the bloop does play when I am in other Tivo menus). The clicking is very annoying and I miss my bloop!. I have tried changing the Listening Mode Presets as several of the other users have recommended, nut nothing has worked. I have a pretty basic set-up with a Tivo HD with two cable cards feeding into my AVR via HDMI and then HDMI feeding into my TV. My AVR is only hooked up to 3 speakers (Left/Center/Right). Any other suggestions that I can try to eliminate the clicking?

Thanks!

Strange about the clicking on rewind and FF. I have a Tivo S3 hooked up to my 707 and that doesn't happen, but I do indeed lose the Tivo sounds on any "overlays," but have them in the menus. This is normal and is actually a function of the Tivo's sound handling, not a receiver thing. When you set the Tivo audio to pass the DD bitstream (which you likely did to take full advantage of the receiver), the Tivo can't "insert" the bloops into the sound because it's passing that raw, unprocessed stream. On the menus, the Tivo is controlling the sound, which is why you still hear the bloop there. This is also why you might get a click from the receiver going into the menus. The mode is changing on the receiver.

Hopefully this is helpful in terms of explaining the missing bloop. Unfortunately, I can't help with the clicking when you fast forward or rewind since I'm not seeing that behavior on my S3. Sorry!
post #1790 of 3560
Hi,

I am having problems with the PS3 video... I have the sr707 (well, obviously), Epson TW5000 and connected to those are my HD sat. box, HTPC and PS3... (all HDMI connections)

I am having two problems:

1. PS3 video keeps cutting off for 3-5 seconds in uneven intervals. (in XMB and games mostly. imagine not seeing in MW2 online )

I don't think it is the projector, because I hooked up my PS3 directly to my projector for a couple of days before my 707 arrived and I had no problems..


2. when I switch to HTPC, the image size is automatically reduced a bit (110" to aprx. 108") just like as if I manually zoomed in from the lens. I know it is not a big difference yet it is still irritating...

thanks guys...
post #1791 of 3560
Just wanted to ask you guys if you think there is a big difference in HDMI Cables? The dealer that I purchased my TX-SR707 from wants me to spend close to $500 for a 21' HDMI cable to run to my projector. I have read from other sources that the only need to up-grade to this quality of HDMI cable is for longer runs were a digital feed might loose packets because of the cable length. Just hate to spend near as much on a cable as I did for the receiver.

Thanks,
Jeff.....
post #1792 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by showin4fun View Post

Just wanted to ask you guys if you think there is a big difference in HDMI Cables? The dealer that I purchased my TX-SR707 from wants me to spend close to $500 for a 21' HDMI cable to run to my projector. I have read from other sources that the only need to up-grade to this quality of HDMI cable is for longer runs were a digital feed might loose packets because of the cable length. Just hate to spend near as much on a cable as I did for the receiver.

Thanks,
Jeff.....

monoprice.com is your best friend.....
post #1793 of 3560
>>monoprice.com is your best friend.....<<

+1

Lots of satisfied folks here. I just recieved my first set of cables from them...
Very happy with the quality.

NCDaveD
post #1794 of 3560
Hey Jeff,

I don't know about the $500 cable, but does the HDMI cable make a difference?

YEESS!!

First of all $20 cables you buy from just any store (even if gold plated) are not isolated with high quality jackets. By jacket, I mean the outer shell of the cable. This usually causes the cable to also function as an antenna to other devices and energy cables, thus resulting in image noise and degraded quality...

21 feet is not that long of a distance for a good quality cable by the way... The real problems arise when you go 50 feet and up...

Again, I am not saying you should run out to the dealer and get the $500 cable (in my opinion $500 is too much for 21feet), but I think you should definitely keep your options in the upper-class products range...

I hope whatever you buy works out great for you,

Murat
post #1795 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by showin4fun View Post

The dealer that I purchased my TX-SR707 from wants me to spend close to $500 for a 21' HDMI cable to run to my projector.
<>
Just hate to spend near as much on a cable as I did for the receiver.

The dealer wants you to spend $500 on an HDMI cable because he is going to make a lot more money on the $500 cable than he did on the $500 receiver.

Don't listen to your dealer, listen to the advice to buy from monoprice.com. Your wallet will be much happier, even if your dealer isn't.
post #1796 of 3560
Jeff,

Definitely go with Monoprice at that length. Despite Murat's warnings, you're not going to notice any difference if you spend $20, $200, or $500. DIGITAL IS DIGITAL. The signal either gets there or it doesn't. Dealers, installers, and retailers push "shielded, argon sealed, blah blah blah" cables because that is where they make their biggest profit margins. It's one of the biggest rackets in the biz. There was SOME compelling argument to be made with analog cables. Not so much with digital, especially under 50 ft.

Regardless, Monoprice backs up all their stuff, so if by some chance you ARE dissatisfied with the cable's performance, you can return it and spend whatever you like. I've never had to do that, and I've bought many HDMI cables from them.
post #1797 of 3560
I have a 50' monoprice HDMI- no problem
post #1798 of 3560
so does anyone know how to reset the hdmi's?
post #1799 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos1965 View Post

so does anyone know how to reset the hdmi's?


What do you mean by 'reset the hdmi's' ?
post #1800 of 3560
I ordered my 707 earlier this week for a very good price (I think), Anyway I bought it to replace a many year old OPtimus STAV-3880 that I also have running with a 10 band stereo graphic equalizer. Just to make sure I'm right I should no longer need to use the separate EQ with the 707 right? I'm pretty sure it'll do more harm than good but just wanted to make sure before putting back in a box until I setup the old receiver elsewhere.
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