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Peavey IPR class D amps - Page 32

post #931 of 958
Have these been discontinued? The Peavey website shows them there but all the vendors show the IPR3000 as discontinued. Strange. Do you guys know of replacement units? Are they as good with the <20Hz stuff?
post #932 of 958
I'm thinking the same thing, they are showing as discontinued everywhere. I found an amazing deal on an IPR 3000 DSP on Amazon that I just could not pass up. Hooked it up to my six Acoustic Elegance OB15's today and it is already blowing away my Crown XS700. I had originally ordered a QSC RMX2450 which is still on its way but I may just run the Peavey. It is fairly quiet, runs cool and has gobs of low-end power. My wife likes the way it looks with the silver face and blue LEDs (that part drives me crazy but I can overlook cosmetics for good sound). Can't wait to get into the DSP settings though I rely on my MiniDSP for most of those settings.
post #933 of 958
sorry for the newbie question, but the thread is so long that I'm not going to read all 10 gazillian pages. I have a chance to get a new IPR 3000 for $350.... are the power specs on them accurate? do they give ACTUAL 840 watts per channel at 4 ohms? I was going to use them to power 2 stereo integrity 18's if they could and I'd prefer peavey's warranty over Behringer if I had the choice
post #934 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

sorry for the newbie question, but the thread is so long that I'm not going to read all 10 gazillian pages. I have a chance to get a new IPR 3000 for $350.... are the power specs on them accurate? do they give ACTUAL 840 watts per channel at 4 ohms? I was going to use them to power 2 stereo integrity 18's if they could and I'd prefer peavey's warranty over Behringer if I had the choice

If you look at the IPR-1600 amp test in the thread, it was spot on with the specs. I'd wager the 3000 would also test to specs.
post #935 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

If you look at the IPR-1600 amp test in the thread, it was spot on with the specs. I'd wager the 3000 would also test to specs.

gotcha, unfortunately the $350 IPR 3000's are now out of stock at Guitar center from last night. I waffled and missed out... ordered and cancelled thinking they'd still be there.
post #936 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

gotcha, unfortunately the $350 IPR 3000's are now out of stock at Guitar center from last night. I waffled and missed out... ordered and cancelled thinking they'd still be there.

Too bad you're not on MN. There's one on CL for $300...
post #937 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Too bad you're not on MN. There's one on CL for $300...

lol, been missing out a lot lately. I missed out on a guy on CL selling a Crown XTI-2002 for $300 and now this lol...
post #938 of 958
I'm curious if someone could help me with the settings on my IPR 1600 DSP. Here is my configuration and wanted to see if you guys had any suggestions or if I've got it wrong. I'm running a SI 18 HT D4 @ 2ohm on each channel.

Channel A Speaker Selection = EU 218 Sub (I wasn't sure what to set this on??)
Crossover = 120HZ
Program EQ = Yes
Channel A/B = Low Frequency Sub
Channel A/B = High Pass Filter OFF
Maxx Bass Enhancement = 75% (Any suggestions on this?)
EQ 1 Channel A = 0db on all 4 EQ freq. (Open to any suggestions here too)
No Delay
post #939 of 958
Channel A Speaker Selection = EU 218 Sub

i don't know, but that sounds like a pre-programmed setting that will include various filters and high pass etc. for a factory specific 2x18" pro audio bass cabinet, which would be all wrong for your setup. it is probably filtering out all the bass that you are shooting for!
post #940 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

Channel A Speaker Selection = EU 218 Sub

i don't know, but that sounds like a pre-programmed setting that will include various filters and high pass etc. for a factory specific 2x18" pro audio bass cabinet, which would be all wrong for your setup. it is probably filtering out all the bass that you are shooting for!

That is my thought as well. As far as I can tell, there isn't a setting for a generic sub or "other" setting in that list. They all seem to be peavey products? Maybe I'm missing something.

I don't know if it's causing any problems per say. I turn the high pass off and set the crossover to 120hz. I ran the bass drop from Oblivion when he cuts his cable and it hits pretty dang hard and low. But I have no way of knowing for sure if I'm hampered in any way. Figured some of the experts here could shed some light smile.gif

That and the EQ and max bass. Not sure if they should be off for LFE or not.
post #941 of 958
Anyone else use these amps and have recommendations on setup? It would be greatly appreciated!
post #942 of 958
quick question guys. I have an IPR 3000 that I just hooked up to my 2 SI 18 ported beasts. the thing is a beast of course and I'm pounding away ... I notice (since I have to have the gain all the way up on the amp) that when I turn the volume of my receiver up to mental insanity levels on Tron the "DDT" light flickers on really loud hits... I'm not exactly sure WHAT the DDT light is.... is it a limiter to KEEP from clipping? is it the clipping light itself? is it a problem if it flashes on heavy hits like that? I prefer NOT to screw up a perfectly good amp
post #943 of 958
DDT is the clipping protection.

http://forums.peavey.com:8080/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=21580

Take a look at the next to last post on that page. Offers some info about DDT.

Can I ask what you set your subs at in the initial programming? I never got a response from anyone. Looks like the list is all Peavey products. Nothing generic for a sub.
post #944 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by likelinus View Post

DDT is the clipping protection.

http://forums.peavey.com:8080/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=21580

Take a look at the next to last post on that page. Offers some info about DDT.

Can I ask what you set your subs at in the initial programming? I never got a response from anyone. Looks like the list is all Peavey products. Nothing generic for a sub.

ok, good, so flickering on deep beats when I cranked it up that high is normal. just want'd to make sure it was the limiter and not ACTUAL clipping.

and can you elaborate on what you mean by "what did you set your subs at"??? do you mean gain on the amp, on the receiver , etc?
post #945 of 958
oh, and since I can't FIND the manual (even googling)... I noticed there is a switch ont he back for "full range, subwoofer, and "high pass" ... I assume the "high pass setting" includes a preset 20 hz filter, but which of the two other options should it be set on for sub duty? what does the "subwoofer" setting do to the amp that the "full range" mode wouldn't?
post #946 of 958
probably a low pass at 100hz, but i don't know.
post #947 of 958
Whooooaaaaa. LTDO2 doesn't have the answer??? I have to adjust to this wink.gif
post #948 of 958
http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/manuals/peavey-ipr-series-operating-manual.pdf

Sorry, my question is regarding the DSP version. It's during the setup wizard.
post #949 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

ok, good, so flickering on deep beats when I cranked it up that high is normal. just want'd to make sure it was the limiter and not ACTUAL clipping.

and can you elaborate on what you mean by "what did you set your subs at"??? do you mean gain on the amp, on the receiver , etc?

That's not a good thing wormraper. What it really means is that that circuit is the only thing preventing 200volts of DC from going into the subwoofer.

Look at how hot a toaster gets with only 120volts of DC going to it, you definitely don't want THAT going to the subwoofer (unless you want your house to burn down).

Also...
limiting is a form of distortion... and we all know distortion is un-good. wink.gif
post #950 of 958
Ahh so it is a bad thing. I need to boost the signal then cuz I have have to crank both the amp and the avr to full to get a useable signal
post #951 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

Ahh so it is a bad thing. I need to boost the signal then cuz I have have to crank both the amp and the avr to full to get a useable signal

I posted in your other thread to this effect, but to expand on that, Peavey's DDT is not really a limiter, it's a compressor and it comes on well before clipping.

I'm going off memory and based on other amps with DDT, so you should look it up yourself, but I believe the light starts to flicker at about 6db below clipping. With the Peavey amps I've used for musical instrument amplification you don't start to get loud without DDT flickering. If it stays on all the time then it is viewed as a bad thing.

Yes, compression is a distortion of the signal. However, it is all a part of Peavey's proprietary "DDT" thing that they have done for decades. A single DDT light that flickers is just their way of telling you that your starting to get close to the point where we're going to have to compress the peaks to keep voltage demands in check. It would be like seeing the first clip light on an amp with the typical 4 lights.
post #952 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

Ahh so it is a bad thing. I need to boost the signal then cuz I have have to crank both the amp and the avr to full to get a useable signal

Interesting. Do you have the AVR's sub trim cranked to +12 or whatever the max is? Odds are at that point the signal coming out of the amp will already be clipping the amp input at high levels, but if you also have the gain on the amp cranked, then there is only one issue for you here: You need more subs, or you need more wattage. But since you said you only saw the DDT lamp flicker when you were at "Mental Insanity levels" then I wouldn't worry about it. A few flickers here and there and you should be fine. If it is staying constantly lit or knocking each time the bass hits, then you should consider more woofage to satisfy your thirst for heafty bass smile.gif
post #953 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Interesting. Do you have the AVR's sub trim cranked to +12 or whatever the max is? Odds are at that point the signal coming out of the amp will already be clipping the amp input at high levels, but if you also have the gain on the amp cranked, then there is only one issue for you here: You need more subs, or you need more wattage. But since you said you only saw the DDT lamp flicker when you were at "Mental Insanity levels" then I wouldn't worry about it. A few flickers here and there and you should be fine. If it is staying constantly lit or knocking each time the bass hits, then you should consider more woofage to satisfy your thirst for heafty bass smile.gif

I was having to crank it that high because the minidsp unbalanced was on the 2 volt jumpers. I swapped them over to the .9 volt jumpers to match the sensitivity of the .775 input of the amp better and gained 7 DB of head room. that allowed me to dial back the avr to +8 instead of +12 (the max) and turn the amp back a bit to 70-75% gain. now I MAY see the DDT flicker once in a movie in some low ass deep scene on crazy levels for a split second (think the helicopter crash in "A Good day to Die Hard)

I was puzzled initially sine I could crank my old SVS subs on a 300 watt bash amp no problem, but I couldn't get usable output with this pumping 840 watts per channel into the 18s... thought I needed a cleanbox or what not but with the jump switch I gained a solid amount of room to work with...70-75% on the amp gives me some flex and hopefully 2/3rd + on the AVR should keep it from clipping as far as I know (kind of amusing coming from my THT where I was -11 on my avr and barely feeding it 45% on a 300 watt bash amp to get to crazy levels)

ohhh, and I believe one more IPR or IPR2 3000 with another pair is in order later....once I get some more cash that is (just bought a brand new king size bed so that kinda drained my funds.. but 2 more is def in order )
Edited by wormraper - 10/2/13 at 10:41am
post #954 of 958
Excellent and glad you got that figured out. Definitely at this point, you should be good to go across your whole gain structure but you could still run into areas where you could optimize even more along the way.
post #955 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Excellent and glad you got that figured out. Definitely at this point, you should be good to go across your whole gain structure but you could still run into areas where you could optimize even more along the way.

yeah, I may end up turning the receiver's gain down even more cuz I AM running the things pretty hot... I usually end up dialing down my subs a bit after breaking them in cuz your ears start to ache after a movie or two when you're so enamored with running them hot when you first get them biggrin.gif
post #956 of 958
Haha, are you running the subs hot where you have them or are you able to measure them?
post #957 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Haha, are you running the subs hot where you have them or are you able to measure them?

lol, yeah I'm running them 7-8 DB's hot right now after calibrating last night with the spl meter. I'll bring it down to about 6 db's hot after a while if history is to be repeated
post #958 of 958
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

That's not a good thing wormraper. What it really means is that that circuit is the only thing preventing 200volts of DC from going into the subwoofer.

Look at how hot a toaster gets with only 120volts of DC going to it, you definitely don't want THAT going to the subwoofer (unless you want your house to burn down).

I takes seconds for he toaster wire to heat up; those peaks last last only msec
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