DIY Screen made from MDF?

Do they sell MDF in a size bigger than the typical 4x8ft?

I posted a reply in the projector section but since you started a new thread here I wasn't sure if you would see it...

Anyway, if you go with the cloth and wood frame project you can use my build thread for any references. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1028664

MDF works great for a painted screen. I used a sheet of 5' X 8' MDF, 1/2" thick for my 106" diagonal screen. It's super smooth and takes paint great. The advantage of a blackout cloth screen is it's light weight. But it's too dull white if you don't spray paint it. My first screen was blackout cloth.

agreed 100%. i just built a blackout cloth screen and ti looks "ok" but...not nearly bright enough. i have 1.3 gain screen material coming via internet to replace it with. i'll post pictures when i'm done restretching the new material.

btw..where can you get a 5ftx10ft mdf board? i have never seen them that big.

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I used a light gray True Value paint recommended here. I think it's called Winter Mist. I used it to help with my HD1000's blacks.

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Local lumber yard. And some plywood/paneling stores stock it.

I did exactly what you are asking. Please head over to my thread to see the project
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148641

I don't see why anyone would go to the trouble of making a cloth screen (I would go crazy trying to stetch, attach, stretch more because of wrinkles etc. I would rather just make an MDF screen, just my opinion, I'm sure others will disagree.

Btw, you can get basically any size MDF, if you're willing to pay enough. If you go to your local hardware store, they should have a special order place, not all stores have this. Also try going to a building supplier, they will usually have a larger variety for less, you will just have to wait a bit longer for them to get it from the manufactuer.

Be sure to rent a Crane to lift a 10' long piece of MDf.

But for the money, and if your willing to do double duty paint wise (Prime THEN Paint) few materials can satisfy the needs of a DIY'ers budget. Except the wall itself...which I myself enjoy using whenever applicable.

i had no choice but to build a screen and stretch as i am putting my screen over a big bay window. so i can't use MDF..but i agree i would have if given the chance....

well price wise that screen from tigerdirect is going to be pretty cheap, but it will have waves in it almost right off the bat...and it drives me nutz. you could easily build your own frame like i did, and either order screen material (see my other post for link) or use blackout cloth (which i am not all that impressed with) or just use MDF on a wall if you can. that would be cheapest, and easiest and you can paint it completely smooth. good luck.

what store had a 5x10ft mdf board? local store or a big box chain? i'm very curious...looking for a buddy of mine. let me know ok? thanks

Rather than using 3/4" MDF, I would suggest using 3/8" and then stiffen the sheet with 1x2 poplar. The end result will be a lighter and stiffer screen. I did this for a 5x10 laminate screen and it worked very well.

Mike

That was my first thought. What a nightmare to hang that sucker.

Not sure if it is available, but go with the superlite MDF from Windsor if you can find it in that size. It is MUCH lighter than regular MDF.

Another option that I have seen on the forums is to piece together 2 sheets of MDF to get your desired screen size. Of course this will take a little bit mroe care to make sure that your joints are perfectly smooth, and woodfilled and sanded properly.

Does anyone have any tips on painting MDF? I keep reading people say how well it paints up, but I've never painted MDF to where it paints up nice. MDF doesn't like moisture, and when the wet paint hits it, it becomes rough (at least when I've done it). I used MDF for my two cabinets in the HT as well as my cup holder tables between my chairs. Neither of which painted up well.

I'm sure there is a process/art to it, but I don't know. What's the best type of primer to use before painting? Is it best to spray it, or roll it? Best to use a Glossy, Satin or something duller?

For those painting white, what are you using? I have had BOC for about 4 years, and I'm not very impressed with it.

Tony,

Most people simply do not paint it correctly.

• Most MDF has a smoother side, but often it's still not all that smooth. Lightly sand it before Priming.
• Wipe the surface with a slightly damp cloth to remove all traces of dust.
• Prime the surface will a "Sealer/Primer" and do so using to thin coats instead of one thicker one.
• Follow the previous advice whether your Spraying or Rolling
• Lightly sand the second Primer coat using a Fine Grit Sanding sponge
• Apply all subsequent coats as thin as possible, let each dry before applying the next coat.

Just put that little "extra" into it and you'll get the results you want.

Spraying is ALWAYS the superior technique and provides the superior finish.

PS....always use a "Flat" paint, unless your PJ is under 700 lumens, then a Satin can sometimes help. Sometimes.

I have an older Panasonic AE500 that I think is rated for 1,000 lumens, but projector central had an article stating it's actually less than that, and I also run it in low lamp mode. With that being said, it sounds as though I may need to use Satin. Also, it doesn't seem very bright, but also seems washed out in some dark scenes (my room is completely dark). I have it calibrated with AVIA. Would it make sense for me to go with something like Behr Silver Screen to help with the dark levels, or go with a White to help the brightness?

No...Silver Screen is not for you.


Really...if you can consider spraying, S-I-L-V-E-R would be ideal for the Panny 500

coming to you with lots of 'controlled' gain...the Silver Metallic in S-I-L-V-E-R enhances colors and deepened the perception of contrast "Blackest Blacks to Whitest Whites".

RS-MaxxMudd is the most advanced DIY mix that would work for you...that I'd venture to have you attempt.

Basically your looking for Gain w/Contrast assistance added in.

S-I-L-V-E-R is a easy mix and easy spray.

can't spray? RS-MaxxMudd is the next best choice.

Either will augment the Panny 500's performance in a dark room like no + gain White or ultra light Gray w/poly could.

I've never sprayed, so my first attempt may be RS-MaxxMudd. I assume I can use a roller, and I still should do the two lite primer coats on the MDF, light sanding after second primer coat? Here is what I found from the official RS-MaxxMudd thread. Which mixture would I want to use? Also, what Brand is the Delta Pearl and Delta Silver, along with Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold? Can the UPW flat be any brand?

RS-MaxxMudd (for moderate ambient light)
16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
12 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
7 oz. UPW flat
3 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
12 oz. distilled/tap water**


RS-MaxxMudd HGC (for high gain contrast bat caves ht's)
20 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
8 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
8 oz. UPW flat
2 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
12 oz. distilled/tap water**


RS-MaxxMudd LL(for lower lumen pj's and controlled light)
16 oz. Delta Pearl Metallic #02601
10 oz. Delta Silver Metallic #02603
10 oz. UPW flat
3 oz. Folk Art Champagne Metallic Gold #675
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic - Satin finish
12 oz. distilled/tap water**

** when spraying - add an additional 4-6 oz. water.

rs-maxxmudd ll is the easiest to roll, followed by rs-maxxmudd if you must... but like s-i-l-v-e-r do not attempt to roll rs-maxxmudd hgc.

Would it be best for me to do the LL over MDF, or can I roll it over my current Blackout Cloth Screen? I'm not sure if that can be painted.

LL over MDF.

Unless your BOC is very taut... you'd be hard press to roll it very well.