Need recomendations for 3-5" midrange driver?

Is a 6.5 mid completely out of the picture?

Also, Zaph has allot of 5.5 drivers tested on the below link.

http://www.zaphaudio.com/5.5test/

6.5 mid will have pretty ugly dispersion at those frequencies...
how about http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1088

or the Tangband 75-1558SE

Did you mean 250hz or 2500hz?

Why not domes? Morel MDT55 ?

Or even a tweeter like the Vifa DX25 or XT25 will do 2500Hz to 5000Hz very, very well.

lol - i think every suggestion has been a dome dummy!

its the morning, The 3-5" mid-range driver request threw me off.

I just bought a pair of these based upon Zaphs measurements. They look very good but they are not Dayton cheap.

With a 3" coil they should certainly handle plenty of power!

Last thing you should be doing is building yourself some new mains, instead get back at getting a TempestX to production Dammit!

Ha! I'm just waiting on the boat same as you.

This is one of the best performing midranges I have ever used, it will handle a 6db HP @ 250hz if you want to run it that low, and play very nice to 5K @6db LP.
I used this driver in several high end car audio applications and I have found nothing that compares to it, Several high end speaker builders such as Wilson also use a version of this midrange.

http://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/12m_4631g00.htmhttp://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/12m_4631g00.htm

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=917http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=917

They are nice drivers but not efficient. You have to look at what you are matching it up with. If you run it down that low in a home audio loudspeaker, your typically dealing with a baffle step correction. The 89dB is @ 2.83V so you have to be careful that your woofer combination isn't more efficient than the midrange. If you plan to use the midrange below the baffle step correction, of course the system is even less efficient as you burn 2-4dB on the baffle step.

I like to run midranges to the baffle step, and let woofers do the rest. That way you don't end up really pushing a small driver into high levels of distortion and/or thermal compression by effectively making them run the hottest in the area where their distortion starts to rise anyway. The baffle step is easy to impliment because you just pad the midrange/tweeter appropriately. There are not many FR issues when crossing over there as long as your woofer is close to the midrange. Most 6.5"-10" woofer have no problem crossing over that high and the off-axis response is a non-issue because your entering the range where the driver is radiating ominidirectional to begin with.

Crossing over to the tweeter should be done where the off-axis response of the midrange best matches the tweeter. By using a midrange, you greatly expand your choices of affordable tweeters.

methinks you're asking for too much stretch nuts

i have this driver:

http://www.usspeaker.com/beyma%205g40nd-1.htm

and it sounds pretty good. you can always cut off the extra SPL with a crossover.

you can also always flatten the impedance with a zobel or whatever its called.

Linkwitz liked the smaller Seas cone. Check his driver ratings as well as Zaph's.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-848 is what I'd go with

I know nothing about designing, but these sound great.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=295-362
They are the mids in my WTMW centers.

Kg

I have been looking at these over the weekend.


seems like a great match with my SB29 domes now, I need bedroom speakers.

6"s aren't going to be very good off-axis if you're running them up high