*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 1910/790 Owner's Thread - Page 35

Hi Dave. The Denon analog inputs, like those on other fine AVRs, are designed to allow high AQ analog to pass thru to the internal amps with minimal processing. No digital processing (Audyssey, bass management, etc.) can be applied without running that 6.1 analog thru an ADC, applying digital processing and then reconverted thru the DAC to be sent to the amp, all of which defeats the purpose of utilizing that great Oppo "pure" multichannel stuff in the first place. IMHO unless you have very very nice seperate preamp/amps and very expensive speakers in a fairly well treated room, you will do better going straight digital and using Audyssey and Denon bass management.

If your older Oppo has HDMI out, run that to the Denon, as I was just discussing with martan above in regards to the new Oppo BRP-83.

Hey just picked one up, I have never owned a receiver before, just regular stereo amps so I'm pretty clueless to say the least. First thing that is bugging me, the OSD. I have renamed one of the Coaxial Inputs to "SQUEEZE" but it just displays "STEREO SQUEE". How do I get it to show the full input name?

Once again thank you all for your generous contibutions, and this may belong in the Audyssey thread but I though I would start here. Once it finnaly cooled down here last night I ran a "proper" audyssey 6 position test. It set both my front and center channels to "Large" and the xovers to "Full Range" front and center and the sub to 40hz. Should I leave these settings or make some adjustments?

Speakers are all Polk Audio
RT800i Front
CS245i Center
FX500i Rear
PSW 303 Sub

Thanks again

Huh?
p24, right side of page, Parameter; hit Restore. Then check crossovers. Post those results.
As per Audyssey setup Guide, reset all speakers to Small, etc.

Why cant I find any Denon AVR790's at any online stores? Amazon says its not out yet...

Those are the results reported in the parrameter would not restore take me back to the defaults? I maybe should have mentioned I did a reset so that it would start from scratch. If I change the speaker size will Audyssey make the correct adjustments?

Ok i need a crash course on the 1910 upscaling... if i am watching a show that is 480 should the 1910 upscale it to 720...

It will upscale or should I say upconvert up to 1080p, the image looks much better than the 480i, but its not the real 1080p

Just fixed it had to change it in the input menu of the 1910... it does look better. one question i have my tv is 720 but my cable box is set at 1080i does that make a differance...should i go into my cable box and set it to 720...

If your TV runs at 1280x720 than 720p would be best. (better than 1080i)

I dont want to make new thread about this, so im asking this here: Which one should i buy, denon avr-1910 or yamara rx-v765??

That would be a big NO. Yamaha amps are know to be very weak with all channels driven.You should check out the yamaha thrends to see what problems there users are having to deal with.. You can spend more and get the new 1065 if you want to make a even bigger mistake..But to be fair this is a denon fan club thrend...If you do end up with a denon , you will get all the help you need, all you need to do is just ask.

Obviously, some people on this thread like the Denon better.
Glancing at the Yam, it seems like a fine AVR, and I am not aware of the amp problem tomuch is referring to. Personally I would give the nod to Denon with Audyssey for better room correction, rather than YPAO.

Googling "yamaha rx-v765 official thread" or some such there's a brief thread with discussion (including batpig's comments) vs the 1909, which I believe is fairly applicable, here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post16123684
Of course the 1910 has some improved video capability, etc., over the 1909 (see first page of this thread).

Well its not a problem as in not working or the Yam sounding piss poor. Its more like paying for 95 watts x5 and getting closer to 40 watts x5. In that price range Denon and Onkyo have double the output and thats the magic plus three DBs

Well that indeed would be pretty significant in my book. The Denons bench test pretty close to specs. tomuch, do you have any specific references (benchtests) on the Yams as to this issue you are referring to?

The 863 which is a Yam heavy weight and is sold as 105 watts per channel full band width

http://hometheatermag.com/receivers/...ec/index2.html

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/rec...nce-page2.html

I have not seen any bench tests for the newest yamahas, but my guess is if its lighter its weaker.

I have just bought a 1909 AVR. I do like it, but after some issues setting it up I have finally gotten it to work the way it should. but I have one issue. I have connected my HTPC to it, and the HTPC is connected via HMDI. I get good video, but the audio is only coming out as stereo. It is set to DTS NEO:6 cinema. is this the wrong setting? when I turn on my XBOX I via optical, I get the speaker OSD on both sides, but the htpc only on the right side?

thanks

Has anyone had the opportunity to compare the audio quality between the 1909 and 1910? It looks like the 1910 weighs about 2 lbs less than last years 1909.

Also, has anyone been able to compare the video upconversion between the 1910 and 2310?

Since your tv is 720 you should NOT set the 1910 to scale everything to 1080p because then your tv has to scale it DOWN to 720 resulting in double scaling.

What you probably should do is this:
Set your cable box to output the resolution untouched. If the programme is 480i it shall output 480i, if you have HD channels and some programmes are 720p or 1080i, they shall also be output at their native resolution. What this is called in the settings of your cable box is unknown to me.
Then set the 1910 to output at 720p.
The reason for this is that you only want to scale things once and the 1910 probably has the best scaling chip of the three.

BUT! If your TV has 768 lines which is quite common and cannot show 720p without scaling it to 768 (some can, others can't), the TV will scale everything anyway. If you can set your TV to show 720 lines instead of 768, do so and follow the description above.
If you can't, you have to experiment with either the 1910 scaling, the TV scaling or the cable box scaling and see which one you like the best. But only one at a time!

Wow, tom, a stunning contrast to the measured performance of the Denon 989!:
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/rec...ics-page2.html

My Denon 1910 is backordered now. As per 6th ave I should get in next 2-3 weeks. Can I just connect 1 or 2 speakers directly to TV till I get receiver? Will it cause any future problem in speakers?

Current Equipment
Jamo Speakers (2 E680(Front) + 2 E660 (Rear) + S 60 CEN center)
Denon 1910 Speaker ( Expecting in 2-3 weeks)
Vizio TV
FIOS STB
Wii
DVD Player ( I will upgrade to Blu-ray in few months)

My 1910 shipped yesterday from EE I should have it Monday. This will be my 2nd Denon Reciever. My 1st was a AVR-887 and it just bit the dust a couple of days ago, I had it for 4 years. I was going to go with the Onkyo 607 but no pre-outs pushed me away. I have a Mid-Atlantic Rack with custom faceplates and luckily the 1910 and 887 are the exact same dimensions besides depth so I don't have to purchase another custom faceplate. Can't wait to get it and set it up, I know where to come if I get stuck. This thread is a big help.

Fudgesickles.........Well anyways I saved a bunch with that employee code and I don't have to buy a $190 faceplate so I guess thats fine. Anyways if I do amps in the future i will go pre/pro. Hey batpig what does (ext in) mean anyways on the back of the unit since I thought those were pre-outs?

Batpig- For some reason I am getting a PCM signal on every single Blu Ray that I play. I set my samsung 1600 to PCM in the set up menu. Now I can't get anything but PCM audio when playing any disk. The Dobly Dig HD, or DTS HD light should come on... instead I see the little PCM block light up on the Denon 1910. This doesn't seem right? Where did I go wrong with the settings?

Just taking a guess here. But since you set your samsung 1600 to PCM it will output PCM. And therefore, you get....... PCM!
Another guess. Set it back to its default setting...