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*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 1910/790 Owner's Thread - Page 306

post #9151 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Yes to both questions.

Thanks I appreciate the info.
post #9152 of 9287
Somebody is offering one of these locally for $150. I am wondering if it is worth it.

I have a panasonic GT50 TV - but I can't see 3d (only have 1 usable eye so I lack depth perception anyway), so I am not interested in 3d capability. I have a denon BDP-1610, XBOX with HDMI and Cox HD Cable (HDMI). I have them all connected via component right now to my AVR-2106, that does not support HDMI at all.

I am looking for a unit to just swap out the AVR, and simplify everything to running HDMI.

Also I am only using a front left and front right speaker right now - does the AVR-1910 mix to 2 channel stereo? That's something the AVR-2106 does very well. I also would want to connect the analog audio outputs on my 1610 (burr brown DACs) to analog CD inputs on the AVR. The 1610 is an exceptional CD player. Another question: would the remote be able to run the blu ray and the AVR?

I am trying to determine if this is a good fit - the price is certainly right!

Thanks!
post #9153 of 9287
Thread Starter 
$150 is a solid price. You would gain modern features like HDMI switching, Audyssey calibration and Dynamic EQ / Vol, etc. I used to have a 2105 and the more modern units are much better.

Any receiver can downmix to stereo.
post #9154 of 9287
I picked up the AVR-1910 from craigslist for $150 and I've ordered a bunch of aurum HDMI cables so I can go to a pure HDMI setup.

I am looking for a compatible HDMI multi switch, with a 1 in to 4 out capability. What I'd like to do is take the HDMI output of the AVR-1910 and run it into the box, and then connect all four outputs to my Panasonic GT50, so I can have four sets of custom settings preloaded on the TV (day/night settings for blu ray and cable box). I really want a box that can be run from a universal remote, so I can switch everything all at once.

Are there any HDMI compatiblity issues specific to the AVR-1910 I should be looking for?

EDIT:

Can I use the DM-S205 calibration microphone from my AVR-2106?
Edited by Mickey_C - 3/19/13 at 7:20pm
post #9155 of 9287
I found the answer to the question about using my puck mic from the 2106 (can't use it).

This one I am struggling with a bit more - what exactly is being fed out the PRE_OUT subwoofer RCA jack? Is it frequencies already cut off for bass (filtered) or is it unfiltered (needing to use my subwoofer crossover). I have a polk subwoofer, with the LFE input, and a pair of RCA jacks with a crossover. Not sure which I should use...

Thanks!
post #9156 of 9287
Correct. You'll want to use the newer DM-A409 tower mic or the even newer ACM-1H or ACM-1HB mics. The sub pre-out will pass the LFE (0.1) signal as well as frequencies below the speaker crossovers for speakers either set to SMALL or LARGE/LFE+Main when bass management is engaged (ie. not with DIRECT/PURE DIRECT).
post #9157 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Correct. You'll want to use the newer DM-A409 tower mic or the even newer ACM-1H or ACM-1HB mics. The sub pre-out will pass the LFE (0.1) signal as well as frequencies below the speaker crossovers for speakers either set to SMALL or LARGE/LFE+Main when bass management is engaged (ie. not with DIRECT/PURE DIRECT).

What is the best way to run the sub with this unit? My speakers are Boston VR1 Front L & R, Boston VR10 center, Polk PSW505 sub. No surrounds currently.
post #9158 of 9287
Thread Starter 
As JD explained, the receiver DOES filter the signal (digital bass management) so you want to use the unfiltered LFE input of the sub. Run Audyssey and then enjoy. After Audyssey you will probably want to tweak the bass management (making sure all speakers are set to SMALL with at least an 80Hz crossover) as discussed in the many guides. If you haven't done any reading on this I have collected a lot of info here: http://batpigworld.com/wp/?page_id=37
post #9159 of 9287
Hi all !

Today I tried to use the optical input (1 and 2) from my 1910, have connected some cable, but the red led from the cable connector does not light

Have tried with 2 different cables, same thing, no red light.

When I connected any of those cables to some device (in case my pc) the red light is on (both sides), then I guess the cables are OK.

Also tried the optical output and in this case the red light appears.

Does it mean I have a broken digital optical input? Is there another way to test those ports?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Edited by Rodrigues_Brazil - 3/22/13 at 3:01pm
post #9160 of 9287
No tips? Please?
post #9161 of 9287
Try connecting the optical cable from another device (eg. cable/sat box) as you may simply just not have the correct settings on your PC for optical output. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor (p. 64 USA OM).
post #9162 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Try connecting the optical cable from another device (eg. cable/sat box) as you may simply just not have the correct settings on your PC for optical output. If still no joy, then try resetting the microprocessor (p. 64 USA OM).

Thanks, JD, I will give a try and report back.

Best regards!
post #9163 of 9287
Bad news mad.gif have reset the mc, tried another devices, no signal....

My goal was to connect my pc (I am sure it is right configured) to send audio from the optical output. My sound card has no coaxial out, just optical and hdmi, however I would like to use it only for audio purpose.
post #9164 of 9287
Another option would be to try to obtain an optical ---> coax adapter. If your cable/sat box has a coax output (ie. orange), then try that connection to see if the coax inputs work. You can use any RCA cable to test, although for more permanent use, better to use a "yellow" composite video cable if there is no coax digital cable on hand.
post #9165 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodrigues_Brazil View Post

No tips? Please?

Hi Rodrigues_Brazil, make sure there are no clear protective caps over the tip of the optical cables.
post #9166 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Another option would be to try to obtain an optical ---> coax adapter. If your cable/sat box has a coax output (ie. orange), then try that connection to see if the coax inputs work. You can use any RCA cable to test, although for more permanent use, better to use a "yellow" composite video cable if there is no coax digital cable on hand.

The coax sounds OK. I will try to get some adapter, thanks JD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi Rodrigues_Brazil, make sure there are no clear protective caps over the tip of the optical cables.

Hi JChin, I am sure there is not, thanks anyway.
post #9167 of 9287
Is the unit in source direct (shutting down unused circuitry)? Is the optical port assigned in the setup?

One other thing - are you trying to input optical sound with a selected input (which would be defined in setup), or are you trying to output optical sound? I don't think you can do the latter. IIRC there is a stipulation I read on the 1910 series that it can take analog or optical input audio and add it to HDMI for your panel, but it can't do the opposite.
post #9168 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_C View Post

Is the unit in source direct (shutting down unused circuitry)? Is the optical port assigned in the setup?

No and Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_C View Post

One other thing - are you trying to input optical sound with a selected input (which would be defined in setup), or are you trying to output optical sound? I don't think you can do the latter. IIRC there is a stipulation I read on the 1910 series that it can take analog or optical input audio and add it to HDMI for your panel, but it can't do the opposite.

I am trying: PC OPTICAL OUT -> OPTICAL CABLE -> AVR OPTICAL IN

I just can say that the cable red lights when connected to PC, BD player, etc, but no light when connected to AVR input, but lights when connected to AVR output.

Mickey, anyway thanks for ur interest!
post #9169 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodrigues_Brazil View Post

No and Yes.
I am trying: PC OPTICAL OUT -> OPTICAL CABLE -> AVR OPTICAL IN

I just can say that the cable red lights when connected to PC, BD player, etc, but no light when connected to AVR input, but lights when connected to AVR output.


YOUR OPTICAL INPUT IS WORKING AS DESIGNED. LIGHT DOES NOT COME OUT OF THE OPTICAL INPUT.

I just confirmed this using my AVR-1910.

I turned on my TV and AVR, turned my AVR to TV. My TV is connected via Optical Input. Sound is running to my system from my TV (watching amazong prime, Lincoln Lawyer). Unplugged the TV end of the cable from my Panasonic GT50. Sound stopped coming from TV, and there is NO light (no light coming from the AVR). Reconnected it, and disconnected AVR end of the optical cable. There is light coming from my TV.

The sending side has the LED, the receiving side has an Opto Senser.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodrigues_Brazil View Post


Mickey, anyway thanks for ur interest!

You are welcome wink.gif
post #9170 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_C View Post

YOUR OPTICAL INPUT IS WORKING AS DESIGNED. LIGHT DOES NOT COME OUT OF THE OPTICAL INPUT.

I just confirmed this using my AVR-1910.

I turned on my TV and AVR, turned my AVR to TV. My TV is connected via Optical Input. Sound is running to my system from my TV (watching amazong prime, Lincoln Lawyer). Unplugged the TV end of the cable from my Panasonic GT50. Sound stopped coming from TV, and there is NO light (no light coming from the AVR). Reconnected it, and disconnected AVR end of the optical cable. There is light coming from my TV.

The sending side has the LED, the receiving side has an Opto Senser.
You are welcome wink.gif

Makes sense!
In fact, I spent hours looking for it on the net, but found nothing.
Anyway, my problem is not yet solved.
I'll buy a new cable and try again later.
Thanks again for your help.
post #9171 of 9287
Got a new optical cable and problem solved! smile.gif

Best Regards and thanks everyone!
post #9172 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by strtgng View Post

Hi all. I’m looking for advice on what is turning into a very frustrating experience with my Denon 1910. I bought it new from Crutchfield in June 2010 and it worked perfectly for the first 2 years. I have an ATT Uverse cable box, PS3, and Xbox360 hooked up to it all via HDMI, plus a Wii with component cables. It outputs to a Samsung 50” plasma via HDMI. Speakers are some ancient Bose Acoustimass 7 front and center channels and JBL bookshelfs in the rear. There have been no changes to speakers or inputs other than a switch from DirecTV to ATT Uverse about a year into ownership of the Denon. Everything worked great for the first two years.

Last summer (right after the end of the two year warranty, naturally) the unit started to occasionally go into protection mode with the rapidly blinking red light. This was the every .5 second blinking light for a speaker short – not the overheating light sequence of 2 seconds. It started happening more often, to the point that it would go to protection mode in under a minute even if it had been off for days no matter what the source was. Heat isn’t the issue. It rarely gets played at anything above moderate volume as I have a small house and two young kids.

I have tried:
Swapping speakers as the Bose are very old and may or may not be 8 ohm depending on who you believe (but they are fully functional with two other older receivers I own)
New banana plug connectors
New speaker wire everywhere
Disconnecting all inputs/outputs other than 2 channel speakers and just playing the radio
Removing the unit from its normal location (where it has had 6-7 inches of ventilation on top and has worked fine since 2010)
Reseting the microprocessor per instructions on page 64 of manual and again on 12/14 per instructions over the phone.
Blowing compressed air in the headphone jack

All result in the same thing - the unit makes some very load "thumping" noises then trips the protection circuit. Typically within a few minutes, but when the issue first started occurring over the summer it would sometimes take longer. After some back and forth with Denon, they agreed to a onetime warranty exception and I shipped the unit to a Denon authorized repair center. A month later it comes back, and in speaking with the repair guy on the phone he claims they had it hooked up playing music for 5 days straight without any issues and it tested fine. I get it back and hook it up in my garage with no inputs other than radio and some 25 year old JVC tower speakers – it plays fine for 5-7 hours.

A few weeks later I finally have time to put it back in my main system, thinking it must be an issue with my Bose and JBL speakers based on the repair shops findings and it working with the JVCs – and I have wanted to upgrade to some Take 5 Energys, so I’m okay with dumping the old speakers. But until I can buy those new speakers, I connect the Denon to all the same components but switch the sound to just pass the signal to the TV to output sound. Basically the Denon is just being used as a very expensive HDMI switch as no speakers are connected and the TV is doing the sound amplification.

An hour into watching TV, the Denon protection kicks in. THERE ARE NO SPEAKERS CONNECTED! The unit was cool to the touch. The only thing I can think of now is that I have all the entertainment system components plugged in through a very large APC battery back up unit (as they have been since 2010) I suspect that APC battery back up is starting to lose the ability to hold a charge. My brain tells me this shouldn’t matter while the APC is plugged into the AC and back in the summer I had tried swapping outlets when I originally was troubleshooting, but I plug the Denon directly into the wall – and it ran fine for a few hours last night - but I have no trust in it not kicking off again. We shall see.

Keep in mind my 10 year old Kenwood 1080vr was swapped into the place of the Denon and has been driving the same speakers, plugged into the same APC unit, etc with only the inputs changed since it is too old to have HDMI. It has been playing fine for at least a month like this.

I am at a loss – I paid $400 for this in 2010. I expected more longevity than 2-3 years! Every other receiver I have ever owned still works 10-20 years later! I really am out of ideas of how to fix this. I don’t think Denon is going to offer anything now that their repair shop has said the unit works fine.

Any ideas? Am I missing something that I should test?

So I give up... mad.giffrown.gif

To continue the above saga, I pulled the UPS battery back-up totally out of the system. There is only a monster cable brand surge protector being used now. I plugged the 1910 in and have been using it since I made the above post on 2/26 without speakers hooked up - basically just using it as a HDMI switch. It worked flawless for 3 weeks, so I then plugged the speakers back in and they successfully played via all inputs without issues for over a week with considerable use each day (probably 8-12 hours constant use per day of either TV, PS3, or radio).

Trouble began this past weekend when I head a thump from the rear speakers and then no sound from the 1910. It hadn't kicked on the protection circuit - but no longer had sound. Using the volume button on the remote to turn it up one increment immediately restored the sound. A few minutes later there was another thunk from the rear speakers and the protection circuit kicked on. I turned the unit back on and went to look at the connection on the rear speakers and the plugs into the wall (which connect to wiring in the basement which then comes up on the other side of the room where the 1910 is located). As I leaned over to look, the couch moved under my hand and the protection circuit kicked on again. It hit me that the banana plugs behind the couch stick out enough that they rub ob the rear of the couch and most likely as people shifted weight on the couch the plugs shorted against metal bracing through the thin rear upholstery. Fine - easy fix by either getting lower profile plugs or making some sort of shield to go on the back of the couch. But until then, I disconnected the rear surrounds from the back of the 1910. Problem solved, I thought, and I fired up the receiver again with just the front 3 speakers.

Everything worked fine for about 2 hours, then there was several very loud thumps in the front speakers followed by the protection circuit kicking off again, The unit was barely warm to the touch, playing low volume, and nobody even in the same room at the time. I've yanked the speakers back off and routed the audio to the TV speakers and again am using the 1910 as a $400 HDMI switch...it has worked fine like this for 3 days now.

I am at a total loss now. I understand the rear speakers shorting... but what in the world is going on after they were totally removed from the mix? The battery back-up that was going dead is also out of the loop. This receiver and speaker combo worked without issues for the first two years, in the same location. The same speakers work fine with a older Kenwood receiver hooked up on the same place as the 1910, plugged into the same outlet, using the same wires, etc.

I'm running out of rational sounding theories and I'm down to these somewhat far fetched ideas:

- The Bose speakers are slowly killing the 1910 - maybe the 1910 can't drive them as well as the older Kenwood, or is more sensitive. Bose doesn't give too many specs and simply say the work with 4-8 ohm systems...but if the 1910 needs 8 ohm speakers and the Bose are more like 6 ohm, then do they just put a strain on the system? Of course this theory doesn't explain why they worked just fine for two years...

- There is some sort of intermittent flaw in the circuitry of the 1910 that causes this issue - it would have to be amp related which would explain why the 1910 works fine when the amp is basically off because no speakers are connected and the sound is routed to the TV. But what causes it to start? The unit isn't being moved or jarred by anything.

- There is some sort of power issue in the house. Now I have lived in this house for 12 years and never had any other issues - the house was built in 1996 so it isn't ancient wiring. The 1910 has lived in the same spot the entire time, plugged into the same outlet through the same APC UPS. BUT, did the UPS supply it a "clean" power supply which masked the problem for the first two years and only when the UPS battery started failing did the issue start getting passed through the UPS to the 1910? Not sure about this, as even if the battery in the UPS is dead, it still is plugged in and passes power as an expensive power strip...but maybe it can't regulate voltage as well. Why wouldn't this impact the TV, Xbox, PS, or cable box also hooked up to the same power...or the older Kenwood receiver when I used it?

So I'm frustrated and tired of trying to track this down. Anyone have any more ideas?
post #9173 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by strtgng View Post



I'm running out of rational sounding theories and I'm down to these somewhat far fetched ideas:

- The Bose speakers are slowly killing the 1910 - maybe the 1910 can't drive them as well as the older Kenwood, or is more sensitive. Bose doesn't give too many specs and simply say the work with 4-8 ohm systems...but if the 1910 needs 8 ohm speakers and the Bose are more like 6 ohm, then do they just put a strain on the system? Of course this theory doesn't explain why they worked just fine for two years...

- There is some sort of intermittent flaw in the circuitry of the 1910 that causes this issue - it would have to be amp related which would explain why the 1910 works fine when the amp is basically off because no speakers are connected and the sound is routed to the TV. But what causes it to start? The unit isn't being moved or jarred by anything.

- There is some sort of power issue in the house. Now I have lived in this house for 12 years and never had any other issues - the house was built in 1996 so it isn't ancient wiring. The 1910 has lived in the same spot the entire time, plugged into the same outlet through the same APC UPS. BUT, did the UPS supply it a "clean" power supply which masked the problem for the first two years and only when the UPS battery started failing did the issue start getting passed through the UPS to the 1910? Not sure about this, as even if the battery in the UPS is dead, it still is plugged in and passes power as an expensive power strip...but maybe it can't regulate voltage as well. Why wouldn't this impact the TV, Xbox, PS, or cable box also hooked up to the same power...or the older Kenwood receiver when I used it?

So I'm frustrated and tired of trying to track this down. Anyone have any more ideas?

Speaker impedance is nominal - in fact most of the time, the amp is seeing a higher impedance, as the load seen by the power amplifier is shifting with the frequency.

IMHO you have some crappy cable somewhere, this type of issue is usually an intermittant cable. It could be shorting or opening at the tie down posts, either end, or actually cracked somewhere along the length of it. Cracked conductors touch, but will bounce with vibration.

Check the cables thoroughly. And if you're using single conductor wiring anywhere SPANK SPANK SPANK that is the most prone to conductor cracking. If you have banana or other clips inspect them thoroughly to make sure the solder joints are good, and they are not cracked (twist the cable and see if one of the wires magically lifts up, solder joint and all).
post #9174 of 9287
BTW - you need to open the speakers and see if the bad connection is internal. Sometimes they have shoddy connectors or solder joints, and stuff comes loose.
post #9175 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by strtgng View Post


To continue the above saga, I pulled the UPS battery back-up totally out of the system. There is only a monster cable brand surge protector being used now. I plugged the 1910 in and have been using it since I made the above post on 2/26 without speakers hooked up - basically just using it as a HDMI switch. It worked flawless for 3 weeks, so I then plugged the speakers back in and they successfully played via all inputs without issues for over a week with considerable use each day (probably 8-12 hours constant use per day of either TV, PS3, or radio)...

...Everything worked fine for about 2 hours, then there was several very loud thumps in the front speakers followed by the protection circuit kicking off again, The unit was barely warm to the touch, playing low volume, and nobody even in the same room at the time. I've yanked the speakers back off and routed the audio to the TV speakers and again am using the 1910 as a $400 HDMI switch...it has worked fine like this for 3 days now....

...I'm running out of rational sounding theories and I'm down to these somewhat far fetched ideas:

- The Bose speakers are slowly killing the 1910 - maybe the 1910 can't drive them as well as the older Kenwood, or is more sensitive. Bose doesn't give too many specs and simply say the work with 4-8 ohm systems...but if the 1910 needs 8 ohm speakers and the Bose are more like 6 ohm, then do they just put a strain on the system? Of course this theory doesn't explain why they worked just fine for two years...

- There is some sort of intermittent flaw in the circuitry of the 1910 that causes this issue - it would have to be amp related which would explain why the 1910 works fine when the amp is basically off because no speakers are connected and the sound is routed to the TV. But what causes it to start? The unit isn't being moved or jarred by anything.

- There is some sort of power issue in the house. Now I have lived in this house for 12 years and never had any other issues - the house was built in 1996 so it isn't ancient wiring. The 1910 has lived in the same spot the entire time, plugged into the same outlet through the same APC UPS. BUT, did the UPS supply it a "clean" power supply which masked the problem for the first two years and only when the UPS battery started failing did the issue start getting passed through the UPS to the 1910? Not sure about this, as even if the battery in the UPS is dead, it still is plugged in and passes power as an expensive power strip...but maybe it can't regulate voltage as well. Why wouldn't this impact the TV, Xbox, PS, or cable box also hooked up to the same power...or the older Kenwood receiver when I used it?...

So to continue the above saga, my troubleshooting tasks became much easier last night. After working flawlessly as a HDMI switch since I last posted (with no speakers connected) the Denon went into protection mode in the middle of watching a movie. No warning, no inputs or volume changes at the time - just a sudden outage. The unit had been on for 30 minutes tops and was cool to the touch. The protection circuit blinked the "speaker short circuit" flashing as usual. All other components stayed powered on fine. I powered the Denon back up immediately and it resumed functioning as normal. So I've just eliminated any speaker issues from being the cause, as there are none hooked up - it is routed to provide audio output externally and not use the amp.

So I guess I am down to some strange power issue which doesn't impact any other electronic component in the house, or an HDMI cable issue (not even sure if this is possible, as they all work fine when the Denon is removed from the loop, or some sort of intermittent flaw in the circuitry of the Denon that might takes weeks - if ever - to reproduce in a test environment. I strongly suspect I simply have a $400 paperweight that I won't be able to get any relief from the manufacturer on even though it is less than 3 years old. As much as I loved the Denon, I'm not supporting them by buying another Denon product after this experience, so does anyone have any good $400 non-Denon AVR recommendations? Or, since my 13 year old Kenwood AVR still works fine, but lacks HDMI inputs, I might just get a HDMI/Optical switch box to send the HDMI signal from all my sources to the TV and the audio to the Kenwood. Any recommendations on that type of equipment? I saw on Amazon a box for about $80.
post #9176 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by strtgng View Post

Or, since my 13 year old Kenwood AVR still works fine, but lacks HDMI inputs, I might just get a HDMI/Optical switch box to send the HDMI signal from all my sources to the TV and the audio to the Kenwood. Any recommendations on that type of equipment? I saw on Amazon a box for about $80.

Trying to save you some money here. If your Kenwood has optical and coxial in, can you send your audio to your Kenwood via these and HDMI out to the TV? If your Kenwood has a few audio ins, your TV will also have a few HDMI inputs. Maybe I am missing something but why would you need a switch?
post #9177 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by strtgng View Post

So to continue the above saga, my troubleshooting tasks became much easier last night. After working flawlessly as a HDMI switch since I last posted (with no speakers connected) the Denon went into protection mode in the middle of watching a movie. No warning, no inputs or volume changes at the time - just a sudden outage. The unit had been on for 30 minutes tops and was cool to the touch. The protection circuit blinked the "speaker short circuit" flashing as usual. All other components stayed powered on fine. I powered the Denon back up immediately and it resumed functioning as normal. So I've just eliminated any speaker issues from being the cause, as there are none hooked up - it is routed to provide audio output externally and not use the amp.

So I guess I am down to some strange power issue which doesn't impact any other electronic component in the house, or an HDMI cable issue (not even sure if this is possible, as they all work fine when the Denon is removed from the loop, or some sort of intermittent flaw in the circuitry of the Denon that might takes weeks - if ever - to reproduce in a test environment. I strongly suspect I simply have a $400 paperweight that I won't be able to get any relief from the manufacturer on even though it is less than 3 years old. As much as I loved the Denon, I'm not supporting them by buying another Denon product after this experience, so does anyone have any good $400 non-Denon AVR recommendations? Or, since my 13 year old Kenwood AVR still works fine, but lacks HDMI inputs, I might just get a HDMI/Optical switch box to send the HDMI signal from all my sources to the TV and the audio to the Kenwood. Any recommendations on that type of equipment? I saw on Amazon a box for about $80.

Have you tried removing the Monster surge protector from the setup? Also note that if you purchased with a credit card, your credit card issuer may add an additional 3rd year to Denon's 2 year warranty (Amex will for sure as will some MC/Visa).
post #9178 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowmah View Post

Trying to save you some money here. If your Kenwood has optical and coxial in, can you send your audio to your Kenwood via these and HDMI out to the TV? If your Kenwood has a few audio ins, your TV will also have a few HDMI inputs. Maybe I am missing something but why would you need a switch?

The Kenwood only has one optical input and all the sources only have HDMI or optical ouputs, so to get 5.1 surround from multiple sources I'd be forced to use a switch. The TV has an audio out, but it only passes 2 channel when the source is HDMI, so the audio signal must go straight from the source to the Kenwood. Plus I have 3 HDMI inputs and to use all three I'd have to use the side input on the TV for the third HDMI - leaving a HDMI cable sticking out of the side of the TV. Beyond all this, the HDMI input switching on the TV is very slow! If I stick with the Kenwood, I think a switch is the only way to make it all work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Have you tried removing the Monster surge protector from the setup? Also note that if you purchased with a credit card, your credit card issuer may add an additional 3rd year to Denon's 2 year warranty (Amex will for sure as will some MC/Visa).

The credit card coverage is something I never thought of. I would be covered, so I went to the website and submitted a claim this morning. Not getting my hopes up, as these types of things have so many loopholes and exclusions ...BUT worth a shot. Thanks for the reminder!
post #9179 of 9287
hey guys,

I came home from work today to find that all of my denon avr 1910 hdmi inputs seem to have failed.

The signal of the menus goes into the TV through the HDMI, but nothing goes through when I try to use the DVR or PS3. Ive tried swapping cables, a factory rest, nothing has worked.

Any suggestions? did my receiver just die?

Thanks in advance
post #9180 of 9287
Have you tried the headphone jack trick?
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