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*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 1910/790 Owner's Thread - Page 309

post #9241 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Then it's more than likely the HDMI board on the AVR has gone bad (electrical storm perhaps?). The unit only has a 2 year warranty, so the warranty has likely expired and as the HDMI board generally costs about $300, you would be better served updating to a more current model (the newer models all have networking now). As a final last attempt, try doing a few more microprocessor resets in a row (at least 3-4) before giving up on it. Keep in mind you can also use component video cables to get video to the TV.

Is that the one where i hold < and > while powering up?

Don't know if i'm doing it wrong, but i can't get the component to Work. there is sound all the time but i can't get Picture on the TV. Can be that i need to change the out, but i can't find the menu to change it without looking at the screen...
Edited by Xplized - 8/18/13 at 6:21am
post #9242 of 9287
post #9243 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post


I dont have those buttons...
post #9244 of 9287
Check again ... wink.gif Keep in mind that reset buttons are on the front panel and not on the remote.

post #9245 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Check again ... wink.gif Keep in mind that reset buttons are on the front panel and not on the remote.


Yeah thats more like the front of mine.

I have tried it several times with no result.
I have therefor bought a new receiver today. onkyo tx-nr616
Im selling the old denon cheap if any1 is interested wink.gif
post #9246 of 9287
Keep in mind the 616 drops you down to the most basic version of Audyssey 2EQ which only has 1/2 the speaker filter control points as MultEQ does on your 1910. Also, 2EQ is unable to EQ the sub.
post #9247 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Keep in mind the 616 drops you down to the most basic version of Audyssey 2EQ which only has 1/2 the speaker filter control points as MultEQ does on your 1910. Also, 2EQ is unable to EQ the sub.

What does that mean in basic?
My technical understanding is not that big.
And what would you sugest instead of the 616? Price range should be around the same as this 616 and the denon 1910
post #9248 of 9287
It simply means you may notice a decrease in audio reproduction from your speakers and sub. Either last year's successor to the 1910, the 1913 or the current sucessor, the E400 would be great choices.
post #9249 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by BubbaT55 View Post

With hearing loss increasing to the point I can no longer understand whats being said on the TV I've been desperately searching for a way to hook up headphones to my AVR-1910 while still allowing my wife to listen at 'normal' volume levels. All of my components (Media PC, BluRay and TV) are connected via HDMI. I'm trying to hook up wireless headprones which only have RCA (red/white) inputs.

Based on the research I've done it looks like the only possible method the only possibility is to use a D->A adapter but there are unanswered questions on this.

- Is the optical output connector active when using the HDMI out to the TV?
- Is there a way to set the optical out to stereo (as required by all of the reasonably priced D/A adapters) while the HDMI puts out 5.1?

Other alternatives are welcome!

Thanks in advance for any and all help!
- Bob

1. No. Only the optical input will go out the Optical output.
2. N/A

You'll want to connect the source device to the AVR with a set of red/white analog cables to either the VCR or DVR analog inputs and then connect the wireless headphone transmitter to the corresponding VCR/DVR analog outputs.

post #9250 of 9287
Hopefully someone can help me with a question I'm sure has been answered a thousand times, but I've tried everything I can find with no luck so far frown.gif

I recently got an AVR-790 2nd hand, along with a 5.1 set of Wharfedale Diamond 9's.

My main source is a PC connected to the receiver via HDMI out on an ATI Graphics card. Everything is working great, however when playing music I cannot get bass out of the subwoofer, everything is coming from the two front speakers. In 5.1 content the subwoofer works fine.

I used Audyssey to set up the speakers, and then configured in manual set up to set all speakers to small, and changed the crossover freq to 80Hz (was 40Hz).

When playing music in Spotify on PC, I have the receiver surround mode set to 'Stereo', however I still cannot get any bass out of the subwoofer, it just sits there dormant.

Is there anything else I can try? I tried setting subwoofer to LFE + Main, but I think I also read this is only applicable if front speakers are set to Large.
post #9251 of 9287
Perhaps there is just no low bass in the music you are listening to. If the speakers are set to SMALL/80Hz. you're set.
post #9252 of 9287
Thanks I did consider that, however I even tried playing some rap music with plenty of bass and still didn't get anything. I'll try some more music tonight and see how I go.
post #9253 of 9287
Verify that the subwoofer amp works and that the auto-on is also working. Is the level of output from the -790 enough to turn it on? Are you connected to one or both LINE IN inputs?

AV-N
post #9254 of 9287
I'm not sure how to verify that the subwoofer amp works, but I'll double check the auto-on setting when I get home (and try turning it off). I tried turning the volume up to around 65 this morning, didn't make any difference.

I've only connected to the one LINE IN on the sub, I'll try find a splitter to connect to both.

I also found this elsewhere, which I will check tonight:

"This is what I discovered: The bass level limiter in my receiver is what actually sets or limits the subwoofer output by the receiver. It was set to -60 dB by default which was inaudible, so the receiver wasn't putting out any signal to the sub. Once I set the bass level limiter to 0dB, the sub started working perfectly. The gain knob on the sub is used to adjust the volume of the sub itself and the channel level in the receiver is used to balance the sub with the other speakers. I know this seems simple to more experienced folks, but being a newbie to this realm, (Up until last month I've never owned a receiver or a subwoofer); it took me several days to figure this out."
post #9255 of 9287
You know the sub amp works as you indicated there was no problem playing DD 5.1 content with a dedicated LFE track. What is the sub volume level set to on the AVR? If it's -6db or closer to -12db, then that may be why the sub isn't kicking in. Lower the gain knob on your sub to about 9 o'clock and rerun Audyssey again.
post #9256 of 9287
Thanks for all the help, got it working now (mostly just a case of the sub volume being set too low).

One more question, I play music from my PC, however if I don't have the TV turned on which is connected to the HDMI Output on the receiver, my PC HDMI Audio out shows as 'cable unplugged', so I have to turn my TV on just to be able to listen to music. Is there any way I can fix this?

Graphics card is an AMD HD 6450.

Edit: A bit more reading here points to it being a driver-related issue, and not receiver-specific.
Edited by 5loth - 9/24/13 at 3:33pm
post #9257 of 9287
I have a 790 unit and have a quick question. I would like the receiver to default to a certain source input when I turn it on (Satellite HDMI). It was doing this for a long time until I recently added a new optical audio source input (I have it set to TV, it is optical sound coming from the TV)). Now the receiver defaults to the recently added audio source input (TV). I can't figure out how to make it default to the Satellite HMDI input. Any suggestions are appreciated. One other question. I have an Apple TV inout into the 790. When I choose the input source for the ATV, the default comes up as stereo and not Dolby digital. I cannot hear any sound until I manually set the audio source as Auto and then choose Dolby as the decoder. When I first hooked it up, it worked automatically. Not sure what I did, but I have to do it manually now.

TIA

Scott
post #9258 of 9287
^^
If you changed the HDMI-CEC setting (eg. Anynet+, Braviasync, VierraLink) to ON on the TV, set it to OFF.
post #9259 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrogin View Post


I've had a similar issue with my 1910. See here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19177642


So blowing compressed air into the headphone jack fixed the problem the first time.


Then last month, while using my 1910 (don't recall which inputs were being selected) it spontaneously started cycling audio on/off every few seconds! I could hear the familiar relay click each cycle. It was as if the 1910 had become possessed. So I used the compressed air again and this solved the problem yet again.


I should note that when my 1910 does the mysterious cycling, I have not noticed the "H/P input on/off" message on the front panel as you have.


I never use the headphone jack. And I've tried to visually inspect to see if anything's lodged in the jack - can't see anything. If this happens again, I'll contact Denon. Let us know if the compressed air trick solves your problem.

Thanks for this quick fix. Worked a treat as my amp developed the same fault today. I knew I could rely on AVForums
post #9260 of 9287

Hello. I am newbie here and a denon avr 1910 owner of a few years.

 

I bought the amp 2nd hand (nearly new) and have been pretty happy with its performance overall, but have to say I find it ergonomically baffling!  sometimes I feel the longer I have it, the less I understand...

 

Anyway I write here with a very small and insignificant niggle, but it is really bothering me:

 

After several years of use, I suddenly have "HDMI" in white text floating in the top left corner of my screen permanently when watching the cable box input, and I cannot seem to turn it off.

 

I have no idea why how or when precisely it turned on, but it has only happened recently and I am struggling to get rid of it!

 

I feel like I really ought to be able to crack this, but thought I'd turn to internet for help here... manual leaves me none the wiser.

 

 

can you help?

 

how can I get rid of the HDMI  from my screen? can anyone help me?

 

thanks for reading and for any help offered

post #9261 of 9287
Thread Starter 
There is ZERO chance that it is from the receiver. Most importantly, the AVR 1910 is incapable of generating overlay graphics on top of an HDMI input source, so it is literally impossible for it to be generating that graphic you describe. Since it only happens on the cable box input, I would bet money it's the cable box itself.
post #9262 of 9287
Is it possible to have two different sources configured, using the same output but one passes audio through to the output device?

Basically I am looking at having the output from the receiver connected to a 2 Port HDMI Splitter, one going to my TV in the lounge, the other to my TV in bedroom (short distance away), and two different sources configured for the one input device, for example my xbox, where Xbox 1 passes audio to the receiver, and Xbox 2 passes audio straight through to the bedroom TV (splitter would result in the picture displaying on both which is fine).

Does anyone know if this is possible?

Thanks
post #9263 of 9287
If you connect one of the input devices with analog audio cables you can then pass that audio to Zone 2 speakers.
post #9264 of 9287
I have a model 1910 receiver, and while I realize that it doesn't support 3D, 3D games DO work on my PS3, which is connected to the AVR. However, 3D blu-ray discs do not work... any idea why one would work and the other wouldn't? I'll be upgrading my AVR at some point, but was wondering if there's any way to get 3D to work (other than bypassing the AVR and connecting the PS3 to the 3DTV directly) - switching around HDMI cables takes too much effort with my TV mounted so close to the wall.
post #9265 of 9287
Thread Starter 
It's because of the source resolution. Blu days are full 1080p 3D which exceeds the data rate of the HDMI hardware. The 3D games are probably 720p 3D which has a much lower pixel count.
post #9266 of 9287
I think that's exactly it. Thanks, BP!
post #9267 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by tezster View Post

I have a model 1910 receiver, and while I realize that it doesn't support 3D, 3D games DO work on my PS3, which is connected to the AVR. However, 3D blu-ray discs do not work... any idea why one would work and the other wouldn't? I'll be upgrading my AVR at some point, but was wondering if there's any way to get 3D to work (other than bypassing the AVR and connecting the PS3 to the 3DTV directly) - switching around HDMI cables takes too much effort with my TV mounted so close to the wall.

Test whether or not you can hear a difference between the HD audio over HDMI vs. the higher bitrate DD/DTS audio on BD's over optical. You may be surprised. If you cannot tell the difference, then HDMI to the TV with optical to the AVR would be your bet.
post #9268 of 9287
I have owned my AVR-790 for many years, it works GREAT! But now I am looking for some help from you experts.

I just changed my speakers from Definitive BP6's to Polk RTI12's (monsters!!!)

I run a 5.1 setup with:

Fronts: Polk RTI12
Center: Polk CS5
Rear Surrounds: Bose Acoustimass Double Cubes
Sub: Klipsch KSW-12

Should I set my fronts to Large or Small? I realize I obviously have large speakers, but I am not sure if I should tell the Denon they are large or small. I have set my center to large and my rear surrounds to small.

Should I set Bass to LFE or LFE+Main? I am guessing LFE+Main, so that lows from all speakers goto the sub?

What do you recommend for Crossover Freq? I am using the LFE input on my KSW-12, and I have turned the crossover all the way to its highest setting on the KSW-12 (essentially turning it off), and relying on the Denon's crossover, which I have set to around 100………I realize the RTI12's can probably goto 40 or so, but I am concerned that with not much power (90w) bass may be a tough job for the Denon, so that's why I went with a high crossover point. Interested in opinions of others.

And lastly, you know I have to ask, do you think I should bi-amp the RTI12's? I realize its a common power supply so that this is more bi-wiring than real bi-amping, however I do have extra speaker wire, I don't use the outputs for any other purpose, so my thought is "why not?"

Thanks for any help and tips, the knowledge you all have is wonderful!

Brian
post #9269 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfeeny View Post

I have owned my AVR-790 for many years, it works GREAT! But now I am looking for some help from you experts.

I just changed my speakers from Definitive BP6's to Polk RTI12's (monsters!!!)

I run a 5.1 setup with:

Fronts: Polk RTI12
Center: Polk CS5
Rear Surrounds: Bose Acoustimass Double Cubes
Sub: Klipsch KSW-12

Should I set my fronts to Large or Small? I realize I obviously have large speakers, but I am not sure if I should tell the Denon they are large or small. I have set my center to large and my rear surrounds to small.

Should I set Bass to LFE or LFE+Main? I am guessing LFE+Main, so that lows from all speakers goto the sub?

What do you recommend for Crossover Freq? I am using the LFE input on my KSW-12, and I have turned the crossover all the way to its highest setting on the KSW-12 (essentially turning it off), and relying on the Denon's crossover, which I have set to around 100………I realize the RTI12's can probably goto 40 or so, but I am concerned that with not much power (90w) bass may be a tough job for the Denon, so that's why I went with a high crossover point. Interested in opinions of others.

And lastly, you know I have to ask, do you think I should bi-amp the RTI12's? I realize its a common power supply so that this is more bi-wiring than real bi-amping, however I do have extra speaker wire, I don't use the outputs for any other purpose, so my thought is "why not?"

Thanks for any help and tips, the knowledge you all have is wonderful!

Brian

Speakers set to small. Bass to LFE and crossover set to 120. Crossover for front speakers set to 80 but can set them to 60 (personal preference). Bi wiring is a waste of wire and time.
post #9270 of 9287
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfeeny View Post


Should I set my fronts to Large or Small? I realize I obviously have large speakers, but I am not sure if I should tell the Denon they are large or small. I have set my center to large and my rear surrounds to small.

Should I set Bass to LFE or LFE+Main? I am guessing LFE+Main, so that lows from all speakers goto the sub?

What do you recommend for Crossover Freq? I am using the LFE input on my KSW-12, and I have turned the crossover all the way to its highest setting on the KSW-12 (essentially turning it off), and relying on the Denon's crossover, which I have set to around 100………I realize the RTI12's can probably goto 40 or so, but I am concerned that with not much power (90w) bass may be a tough job for the Denon, so that's why I went with a high crossover point. Interested in opinions of others.

And lastly, you know I have to ask, do you think I should bi-amp the RTI12's? I realize its a common power supply so that this is more bi-wiring than real bi-amping, however I do have extra speaker wire, I don't use the outputs for any other purpose, so my thought is "why not?"

Thanks for any help and tips, the knowledge you all have is wonderful!

Brian

1. When there is a dedicated subwoofer in the setup, set all speakers to SMALL as doing so will provide more headroom to the AVR as well as take advantage of the far more Audyssey sub EQ filters vs. speaker filters.
2. Bass = LFE (setting speakers to SMALL ensure the lows from the speakers crosses over to the sub)
3. Sub frequency knob should be set to maximum, so what you have is correct..
4. LPF for LFE on AVR should be set to 120Hz.
5. No benefit to using bi-amp feature on the AVR. However, if you've got the extra speaker wire, no harm in trying.
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