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*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 1610/590 owner's thread - Page 122

post #3631 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

You wouldn't by chance be using a Quick Select button?

No. It will seems to always default to the optical input each time I turn on the unit. Even though it was last on HDMI. Wierd.
post #3632 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by borcth View Post

No. It will seems to always default to the optical input each time I turn on the unit. Even though it was last on HDMI. Wierd.

It wouldn't happen to be OPT-1, would it?
post #3633 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

It wouldn't happen to be OPT-1, would it?


it's opt 01 , while my hdmi is just 1 in the input assignment area because the digital optical is being ran from the 1st optical port. Is it some how set by default on the reciever to always read from the optical ports before the hdmi or what?
post #3634 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by borcth View Post

it's opt 01 , while my hdmi is just 1 in the input assignment area because the digital optical is being ran from the 1st optical port. Is it some how set by default on the reciever to always read from the optical ports before the hdmi or what?

Go to your Tv menu under HDMI-CEC (SimpLink) setting and check if this is turned ON. If so, turn it to Off and see if this helps.
post #3635 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Go to your Tv menu under HDMI-CEC (SimpLink) setting and check if this is turned ON. If so, turn it to Off and see if this helps.

what does simplink do exactly, because that did the trick. How does it have anything to do with the reciever?

Btw, any idea on the power on/off click relay noise? Why does it only make the click noise seconds after turning on the reciever and not when i actually hit the button? I'm not worried, i'm just curious, as the store demo didn't do this. It seems like it loads some stuff off and then once it does, it clicks. Which is the relay.

Also, under input mode should I set it to Auto or HDMI for the ps3. It's hooked up via hdmi for audio/sound. While the xbox is just optical and the hdmi runs directly to the tv. The reason for this is that on my tv, i have game settings set for the xbox 360 and my ps3(blu ray) on separate calibrations.
post #3636 of 5128
btw, i wanna know exactly how to make my avr 590 into 7.1. There's the option with the surround rears, but i hear you need another amp? I dont understand. Can someone please explain this to me, how i can get this to work. I tried searching, and cant find anything on this. Plus they are plugin style and not wired style. I tried to plug in some logitech computer speakers, but that didnt work. Any ideas? Thanks.
post #3637 of 5128
borcth -

The 1610 and 590 only have 5 "on board" amps so they are only capable of powering 5 speakers. As you noted, you'll need to add another amp (eg. used 2CH stereo amp or even an older 5.1 AVR) which you would use to power 2 more speakers for either a 7.1 or Front Height setup. You would take an RCA (red/white) cable and connect it from the SurrBack/Frt Ht pre-outs to the external amp and then connect the 2 additional speakers to the Front L/R speaker posts on the external amp. Once this is done, you set AMP ASSIGN to Norma (default) or Front Height and would rerun AUTO SETUP so Audyssey could EQ the additional speakers.
post #3638 of 5128
Tried to look around but I couldn't find a satisfying answer to my question.

I have the AVR-1610 and I want to connect my Acer laptop to it so that I am able play music from iTunes as well as watching movies that are on my laptop with my projector (an Optoma GameTime GT-7000).

How is this best done? What do I need?

I've already got my xbox 360 working with my projector and receiver with no problems. And it's awesome. But I can't seem to get my laptop to connect with the receiver.
Please explain in detail.
post #3639 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonasgs1 View Post

Tried to look around but I couldn't find a satisfying answer to my question.

I have the AVR-1610 and I want to connect my Acer laptop to it so that I am able play music from iTunes as well as watching movies that are on my laptop with my projector (an Optoma GameTime GT-7000).

How is this best done? What do I need?

I've already got my xbox 360 working with my projector and receiver with no problems. And it's awesome. But I can't seem to get my laptop to connect with the receiver.
Please explain in detail.

We need to know what model laptop you have. Does it have an HDMI out port? Does it only have a VGA and heaphone jack, etc. Until we know these we wont know how to tell you the best way to connect it.
post #3640 of 5128
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonasgs1 View Post

I have the AVR-1610 and I want to connect my Acer laptop to it so that I am able play music from iTunes as well as watching movies that are on my laptop with my projector (an Optoma GameTime GT-7000).

How is this best done? What do I need?

the limiting factor here is your laptop, the "best way" really doesn't have anything to do with the AVR.

As far as the AVR is concerned, your laptop is no different than any other input device like a DVD player, cable box, CD player, whatever. The AVR has plenty of inputs... the question is, what OUTPUTS does your laptop have?
post #3641 of 5128
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by borcth View Post

Also, under input mode should I set it to Auto or HDMI for the ps3. It's hooked up via hdmi for audio/sound.

it really doesn't matter, both will achieve the same effect. "Auto" allows the receiver to select which audio input to use based on what is active, for example if you had multiple devices connected to the same "name". Setting it to HDMI will "force" it to only use audio via HDMI... but on the "auto" setting it will detect the HDMI audio (this is the highest priority it looks for when set to auto) so the end effect will be the same -- HDMI audio!
post #3642 of 5128
I have an old set of shelf stereo speakers that I'd like to hook up to the B posts. Is it possible to rerun Audyssey just for those, or will it want to do the whole 5.1 set again? Will it run for both A and B?
post #3643 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by spivonious View Post

I have an old set of shelf stereo speakers that I'd like to hook up to the B posts. Is it possible to rerun Audyssey just for those, or will it want to do the whole 5.1 set again? Will it run for both A and B?

Sorry, you only get 1 Audyssey correction, for A or B or A+B (OM p 20). So if you are planning on using these in another room, no Audyssey is possible on them (but you can apply manual EQ). And personally I'd never have 2 pairs of fronts in the same room, I'd just use my best pair as FR/L, Audyssey calibrated, for both stereo and 5.1.
post #3644 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Sorry, you only get 1 Audyssey correction, for A or B or A+B (OM p 20). So if you are planning on using these in another room, no Audyssey is possible on them (but you can apply manual EQ). And personally I'd never have 2 pairs of fronts in the same room, I'd just use my best pair as FR/L, Audyssey calibrated, for both stereo and 5.1.

They'd be in the same room.

I thought this was the whole point of B posts, so I'm surprised it's not supported by Audyssey.
post #3645 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by spivonious View Post

They'd be in the same room. I thought this was the whole point of B posts, so I'm surprised it's not supported by Audyssey.

I don't get it either. I don't get Audyssey A+B at all. Maybe one of our Denon gurus can explain that one. The AVR B posts are intended for "audiophiles" who have a seperate very nice set of full-range dedicated stereo speakers set up in the same room with their 5.1 system. It is really an outdated concept. With Audyssey, there is seemless integration with the sub, and running a sub is superior to big old fashioned speakers for several reasons.

So my general recommendation is to achieve good SQ, get the most decent fronts for your budget (no bullt-in powered subs or huge woofers needed) so stereo sounds good. Get an equally good CC for 5.1 (timbre-matched to FR/L is best) as it handles all the dialog. Audyssey will make them all sound like you paid at least twice as much. A good sub is crucial. However, the quality of surrounds is not really a biggy unless you have a more expensive AVR and are a critical listener of 5.1 music (SACD, Blu-ray).
post #3646 of 5128
Quote:


However, the quality of surrounds is not really a biggy unless you have a more expensive AVR and are a critical listener of 5.1 music (SACD, Blu-ray).

I have to disagree with this. Yes my 789 is a more expensive AVR than the 1610, but not to the degree I believe you mean. I have tried mixed speakers (nice fronts, so-so rears) and matched front/rear speakers and the best sound quality is easily recognizable with the matched speakers for home theater as well as music. I wouldn't say I am a "critical" listener, certainly not to the level of most self-proclaimed 'critical' listeners, but I do enjoy quality surround sound, and with the inclusion of the surround speakers more prevelent than ever these days, it does make quite the difference, at least in my experience.

Since the 'B' speakers is merely a split of the 'A Front' speakers, I would think that Audyssey would include them as a whole, but not seperately. Like you though, I don't have an answer to this very good question since I don't use 'B' for same room nor seperate room, I use the conveinent Zone 2 feature for that.
post #3647 of 5128
Thread Starter 
right, it's really impossible for Audyssey to apply separate correction to A and B because they are a split signal -- both "A" and "B" speakers are sent the exact same thing. It doesn't really make any sense to use the correction filters for your "A" speakers on your second set of "B" speakers, since they will be different speakers, in a different position, and thus require different correction!

Basically, if you want to have a secondary pair of "dedicated two channel" speakers, you will probably need to diddle with the Manual EQ.

Quote:


I thought this was the whole point of B posts, so I'm surprised it's not supported by Audyssey.

Audyssey doesn't make these decisions, Denon does -- as with anything, it's a question of cost and limited resources, in this case the DSP and memory available. No consumer AVR unit can store more than one Audyssey calibration at a time.... and honestly can you blame Denon for not spending the money to allow this happen? How many people use the "B" speakers and demand a second Audyssey correction for them? It seems clear that the audience isn't there for Denon to spend the money upgrading the available memory and DSP resources to enable this functionality....
post #3648 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

I have to disagree with this. Yes my 789 is a more expensive AVR than the 1610, but not to the degree I believe you mean. I have tried mixed speakers (nice fronts, so-so rears) and matched front/rear speakers and the best sound quality is easily recognizable with the matched speakers for home theater as well as music. I wouldn't say I am a "critical" listener, certainly not to the level of most self-proclaimed 'critical' listeners, but I do enjoy quality surround sound, and with the inclusion of the surround speakers more prevelent than ever these days, it does make quite the difference, at least in my experience...

Well I beg not to differ with you. Well, maybe I do differ, but it's a matter of degree. I was simply suggesting where the biggest "bang for the buck" for stereo/5.1 combined can be had on a limited budget. I would favor the fronts but I agree that having better speakers (especially timbre-matched) in any and all of the spots is preferred if affordable.

My experience is with the 789, and the "more expensive" 988 and 2809 and with 2 sets of Polk surrounds. 1 set was the fairly large and quite capable multiple driver dipole Fx 300i, well-matched to my Polk towers and CC, which I mounted on the walls. I replaced these with much smaller 2 way Polk RC 55i in-walls with little trade-off SQ wise even with mutichannel music such as SACD's. I attribute the amazing performance of the 55's mostly to Audyssey (especially MultEQXT).

if one has the bucks, you upgrade the weakest links.
post #3649 of 5128
Quote:
if one has the bucks, you upgrade the weakest links.

Agreed. Audyssey does perform magic I must say. The reason I was able to get all matching fronts/rears was because the speakers were on closeout at an absolute give-away pricing shipped and just couldn't be turned down. Yes it is about affordability, and any speaker beats a blank, but there is absolutely a SQ difference.
post #3650 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post

We need to know what model laptop you have. Does it have an HDMI out port? Does it only have a VGA and heaphone jack, etc. Until we know these we wont know how to tell you the best way to connect it.

It does have an HDMI out port.. but I couldn't seem to get the connection working properly. =/
post #3651 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonasgs1 View Post

I couldn't seem to get the connection working properly. =/


Can you explain that in more detail? Did you get video but no audio, audio but no video, nothing at all.

What graphic card are you using ATI, Nvidia, etc? What Operating system are you running? How did you try to hook it up (what input), and what did the reciever say?

I know its possible because I am running a Radeon 4870x2 via DVI-HDMI into the reciever and then onto a 32" HDTV in my bedroom and it works perfectly.
post #3652 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

right, it's really impossible for Audyssey to apply separate correction to A and B because they are a split signal -- both "A" and "B" speakers are sent the exact same thing. It doesn't really make any sense to use the correction filters for your "A" speakers on your second set of "B" speakers, since they will be different speakers, in a different position, and thus require different correction!

Basically, if you want to have a secondary pair of "dedicated two channel" speakers, you will probably need to diddle with the Manual EQ.



Audyssey doesn't make these decisions, Denon does -- as with anything, it's a question of cost and limited resources, in this case the DSP and memory available. No consumer AVR unit can store more than one Audyssey calibration at a time.... and honestly can you blame Denon for not spending the money to allow this happen? How many people use the "B" speakers and demand a second Audyssey correction for them? It seems clear that the audience isn't there for Denon to spend the money upgrading the available memory and DSP resources to enable this functionality....

Good point about the split signal. And I don't know anyone who uses the B posts, so I can see why Denon wouldn't put too much time into them.

About storing two Audyssey configs, I have to disagree with the cost argument. Memory is as cheap as it's ever been right now. I can get 4GB of very fast memory for under $100. An Audyssey config can't take up more than a couple of megabytes, which would add maybe 10 cents to the production cost.
post #3653 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonasgs1 View Post

It does have an HDMI out port.. but I couldn't seem to get the connection working properly. =/

What OS are you running? You may need to manually tell the computer to output a signal over the HDMI.
post #3654 of 5128
The dialogue only comes from the center speaker on my old HK receiver. On the 1610 it comes from all speakers even when Audyssey is turned off. Is this normal? Thanks.
post #3655 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidt1 View Post

The dialogue only comes from the center speaker on my old HK receiver. On the 1610 it comes from all speakers even when Audyssey is turned off. Is this normal? Thanks.

It all depends on the source and how you're playing it back (Pro Logic/Neo, DD/DTS). DVDs/BDs will almsot always have dialog in the center channel only.

Also, Audyssey has no effect on where the sounds come out.
post #3656 of 5128
Thread Starter 
Yes, Audyssey has nothing to do with this.

The combination of INPUT SIGNAL and SURROUND MODE controls the sound you are hearing. The input signal is what's coming in, and the surround mode determines how many channels it is processed to on the way out to your speakers.

Try pushing the "Standard" or "Cinema" button on your remote to see if that fixes things and engages Dolby Digital or PLII Cinema mode(s).

You should read through the discussion on surround modes in the Audio section of my FAQ: http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audio

Once you learn to understand the relationship between input (signal type) and output (surround mode) it makes more sense.
post #3657 of 5128
audysseey also seems to have automatically made my front mains as "Large". Should I leave it or make it small. I dont want to tinker with the auto calibration too much. Any ideas?
Im also still waiting for the relay poweron click noise. It still takes 5-10 seconds after the unit has been powered on to go "CLICK". And not when you hit the button right away. Is this normal and should be ignored? I want to make sure it's okay while I'm still into my return policy.
post #3658 of 5128
I will play with it as suggested, but are you guys sure you don't hear dialogue from the surround speakers when DynVol is engaged? I believe that's how DynVol achieves its magic by sending the dialogue to all speakers so that it can heard clearly even when the volume is low.
post #3659 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by borcth View Post

audysseey also seems to have automatically made my front mains as "Large". Should I leave it or make it small....

Follow the audyssey setup guide and reset them to small, crossovers=80.
post #3660 of 5128
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidt1 View Post

I will play with it as suggested, but are you guys sure you don't hear dialogue from the surround speakers when DynVol is engaged? I believe that's how DynVol achieves its magic by sending the dialogue to all speakers so that it can heard clearly even when the volume is low.

No and no.
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