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Denon AVR-4310CI Thread - Page 160

post #4771 of 5197
1/15/12 at 5:21am
I am having some wierd symptoms. I added an optical connection to my setup for use in zone 2. Assigned opt 1 to my ATV, now my zones have lost volume control, the main is bleeding over to the zones, remote control is wonky switching between sources, and generally erratic. Main is fine. I definitely have zones set on variable output. I have reset processor and reloaded my configuration, but if I have an error in the setup, I'm just repeating it.

Any ideas?
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post #4772 of 5197
1/15/12 at 9:24am
Zone 2 MUST be analog input. Optical will not work. Try changing batteries in the remote. Beyond that, you are on your own.
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post #4773 of 5197
1/15/12 at 10:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Zone 2 MUST be analog input. Optical will not work. Try changing batteries in the remote. Beyond that, you are on your own.

I'm using ATV through optic output in zone 2. Optic works in zone 2 or 3, HDMI not.

Double check the input assign. I'm using through HDP input.

Good luck!
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post #4774 of 5197
1/15/12 at 10:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwall View Post

I am having some wierd symptoms. I added an optical connection to my setup for use in zone 2. Assigned opt 1 to my ATV, now my zones have lost volume control, the main is bleeding over to the zones, remote control is wonky switching between sources, and generally erratic. Main is fine. I definitely have zones set on variable output. I have reset processor and reloaded my configuration, but if I have an error in the setup, I'm just repeating it.

Any ideas?

The volume is controlled by the device streaming the itunes audio.
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post #4775 of 5197
1/15/12 at 10:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Zone 2 MUST be analog input. Optical will not work.

Denon AVRs from the 33XX series (to include 2808 and 2809) and higher can pass PCM 2.0 audio via optical or coax digital inputs to Zones 2/3.
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post #4776 of 5197
1/15/12 at 10:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlyz View Post

I'm using ATV through optic output in zone 2. Optic works in zone 2 or 3, HDMI not.

Double check the input assign. I'm using through HDP input.

Good luck!

Set digital audio as 2.0 PCM (see page 86 in OM).
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post #4777 of 5197
1/15/12 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Denon AVRs from the 33XX series (to include 2808 and 2809) and higher can pass PCM 2.0 audio via optical or coax digital inputs to Zones 2/3.

Always good to learn new things about ones AVR...
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post #4778 of 5197
1/16/12 at 6:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post


Denon AVRs from the 33XX series (to include 2808 and 2809) and higher can pass PCM 2.0 audio via optical or coax digital inputs to Zones 2/3.

I initially thought I couldn't pass optical to Zone 2 also from experience with older models. However, I read the manual (ugh) and did other research on the forums here before concluding it would take optical input to zones (built in DAC's). To be certain that this is what was happening, I pulled my HDMI cable from my ATV leaving only an optical connection. I lost video, of course, but still had really nice audio on the main and zone 2. There was a momentary drop out on the main. I suspect it may have a built in source priority and dropped from HDMI down to optical on the main.

I still haven't eliminated remote issues, though it's not batteries. I am going to scour my input assignments and move unused inputs to none. I may have a conflict that is goofing up the switching. The loss of variable output is a mystery without leads. I am using preouts to a multichannel power amp if that provides a clue to anyone. I should have mentioned this earlier.
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post #4779 of 5197
1/16/12 at 12:42pm
So my Denon AVR-4310ci network card has officcially kicked the bucket.

I powered it off using the Power switch (button #3 in the manual) and now it won't obtain an IP. This happened to me a year ago (original post link) and the network card reset seemed to fix it until now. I have also tried the microprocessor reset but that doesn't help.

I've emailed Denon Canada and they said the part (8R1891001100D) is on 4 week back order from Japan.

I'm looking for any advice on:
- good place(s) to buy the network card assembley from?
- any guides/pictures out there that show how to replace it yourself?

Any help is much appreciated!
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post #4780 of 5197
1/16/12 at 12:55pm
If the part is on back order from Japan, you're not likely to get it from an authorized parts distributor as they generally only order on demand, however, doesn't hurt to give them a call ...

http://usa.denon.com/us/support/page...tributors.aspx

As described by others in this thread, installation should be fairly easy, taking only a few minutes. More can be found by using the "Search this Thread" button (upper right corner). Here's one post that is helpful ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20072101
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post #4781 of 5197
1/18/12 at 12:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwall View Post


I initially thought I couldn't pass optical to Zone 2 also from experience with older models. However, I read the manual (ugh) and did other research on the forums here before concluding it would take optical input to zones (built in DAC's). To be certain that this is what was happening, I pulled my HDMI cable from my ATV leaving only an optical connection. I lost video, of course, but still had really nice audio on the main and zone 2. There was a momentary drop out on the main. I suspect it may have a built in source priority and dropped from HDMI down to optical on the main.

I still haven't eliminated remote issues, though it's not batteries. I am going to scour my input assignments and move unused inputs to none. I may have a conflict that is goofing up the switching. The loss of variable output is a mystery without leads. I am using preouts to a multichannel power amp if that provides a clue to anyone. I should have mentioned this earlier.

In case somebody else has this problem, I thought it best to tell what I figured out.

All is well. These problems turned out to be several wiring problems that were tough to sort out. The receiver was working properly. I created the crosstalk & control issues (for example I did not have the external amp connected properly to the zone pre output like I thought.) That's why my "zone" followed the main. It really was the main pre out. I also had two RCA inputs for zone inputs crossed creating what appeared crosstalk. The HDMI inputs were correct on the main. I use a mirror and flashlight to see the back of my receiver and that is where this started. I had to pull it out of the cabinet to see the errors. An important lesson learned.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Also, the optical input for the Apple TV works just fine on the zones.
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post #4782 of 5197
1/18/12 at 12:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwall View Post


In case somebody else has this problem, I thought it best to tell what I figured out.

All is well. These problems turned out to be several wiring problems that were tough to sort out. The receiver was working properly. I created the crosstalk & control issues (for example I did not have the external amp connected properly to the zone pre output like I thought.) That's why my "zone" followed the main. It really was the main pre out. I also had two RCA inputs for zone inputs crossed creating what appeared crosstalk. The HDMI inputs were correct on the main. I use a mirror and flashlight to see the back of my receiver and that is where this started. I had to pull it out of the cabinet to see the errors. An important lesson learned.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Also, the optical input for the Apple TV works just fine on the zones.

Great! I hope you enjoy ATV in zones like me. It's great!!!

Pls let me know if any time you need to reset ATV. In my case, time to time needs to be reset
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post #4783 of 5197
1/21/12 at 1:06am
Hi all,

I'm thinking of connecting a pre-pro to my 4310's analog audio inputs, using it only as amplifier.

I never did this before and I'm concerned about how I'll adjust the volume with the two devices connected.

Will be needed to use the volume control of the 4310? Or only the pre-pro?

If I've to set the volume in the pre-pro AND in the 4310, it's a bit.. cumbersome.

Anybody has do it before or has experience how this will work?

Thanks,
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post #4784 of 5197
1/21/12 at 4:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasmin6969 View Post

Hi all,

I'm thinking of connecting a pre-pro to my 4310's analog audio inputs, using it only as amplifier.

I never did this before and I'm concerned about how I'll adjust the volume with the two devices connected.

Will be needed to use the volume control of the 4310? Or only the pre-pro?

If I've to set the volume in the pre-pro AND in the 4310, it's a bit.. cumbersome.

Anybody has do it before or has experience how this will work?

Thanks,

Why would you do this? You are chaining two preamps together (your separate pre-pro and the preamp section of the 4310) before your audio source signal gets to the amplifier. Seems like a lot of extra processing that can't be doing good things to your source.
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post #4785 of 5197
1/21/12 at 4:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasmin6969 View Post

Hi all,
I'm thinking of connecting a pre-pro to my 4310's analog audio inputs, using it only as amplifier.
I never did this before and I'm concerned about how I'll adjust the volume with the two devices connected.,

I add my curiosity to that of pbarach. Why wouldn't you just input your source device into the 4310, which has a good preamp section and has Audyssey to boot?! Your concern about volume is another good reason to not do this. Keep the vol on the pre/pro down so the level of signal is close to the original source device! And BTW I'd think that if you want to use the 4310 more as an amp, you'd use the 4310's Ext In analog inputs which will pass the signal through to the amps with minimal preamping.
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post #4786 of 5197
1/21/12 at 9:12am
I 3rd the questioning on ...WHY??? You will gain zero.
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post #4787 of 5197
1/21/12 at 9:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasmin6969 View Post

Hi all,

I'm thinking of connecting a pre-pro to my 4310's analog audio inputs, using it only as amplifier.

I never did this before and I'm concerned about how I'll adjust the volume with the two devices connected.

Will be needed to use the volume control of the 4310? Or only the pre-pro?

If I've to set the volume in the pre-pro AND in the 4310, it's a bit.. cumbersome.

Anybody has do it before or has experience how this will work?

Thanks,

No, but you have created a sea of curiosity about why would you do this..
Pls let us know
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post #4788 of 5197
1/21/12 at 10:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlyz View Post

No, but you have created a sea of curiosity about why would you do this..
Pls let us know

:-)

The new pre-pro would be one with hdmi 1.4 (or 1.5, who knows!) and last MultEQ version. I would use the 4310 analog inputs to skip the processing.

The 4310 amps are very good and I my speakers don't need more power. I prefer to spend my money in a pre-pro with more features and advanced controls than in a whole AVR (4312) with same o less sound quality than my 4310.

I know stereo amplifiers have an "amp" setting, that disable the volume control and pass the control to the pre-pro that sends them the signal. But I don't know if AVR could be the same way or not...
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post #4789 of 5197
1/21/12 at 5:15pm
^Ahhh, yasmin, OK, I get it. No that's not a good idea at all. If you're gonna get a new pre/pro, sell the 4310 and buy an amp for Pete's sake. Look at the Onkyo 5508/5509. Or skip separates and buy the AVR version. Or get an AVR 4311(see below).

It seems like maybe you're approaching ta similar upgrade decision as the one I made several months ago. Here's what I found. If you want a new processor anytime soon with the latest/greatest Audyssey (which is MultEQXT32), 11.2 DSX and 3D passthru then you have very few options. I ended up selecting a Denon AVR4311 and these are now under $1.4K street in US (I know not of Europe) from authorized dealers. I sold my 4310 so the net cost to me was about $800 (for a used A100 version)-it was well worth it and I couldn't be happier. BTW, the 4311 has better amps than the 4310 and more capability, reliability and value than any XT32 equipped Onk/Integra pre/pro or AVR. And BTW there will be no 4312, but you can wait some months to see what's coming next from Denon and others.
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post #4790 of 5197
1/22/12 at 1:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

^Ahhh, yasmin, OK, I get it. No that's not a good idea at all. If you're gonna get a new pre/pro, sell the 4310 and buy an amp for Pete's sake. Look at the Onkyo 5508/5509. Or skip separates and buy the AVR version. Or get an AVR 4311(see below).

It seems like maybe you're approaching ta similar upgrade decision as the one I made several months ago. Here's what I found. If you want a new processor anytime soon with the latest/greatest Audyssey (which is MultEQXT32), 11.2 DSX and 3D passthru then you have very few options. I ended up selecting a Denon AVR4311 and these are now under $1.4K street in US (I know not of Europe) from authorized dealers. I sold my 4310 so the net cost to me was about $800 (for a used A100 version)-it was well worth it and I couldn't be happier. BTW, the 4311 has better amps than the 4310 and more capability, reliability and value than any XT32 equipped Onk/Integra pre/pro or AVR. And BTW there will be no 4312, but you can wait some months to see what's coming next from Denon and others.


Uummm... Thank you for your advice, SounofMind. I'm still unsure what upgrade path to follow...

I think there will be another hmdi version in the short time (all this buzz about 4K) so buying another AVR makes me a bit nervous. The separates path at least assures the amplifier part remains constant.

Here in Europe the 4311 sells for a street price of 2200€ (2800$ at the current exchange rate) and it's very very very difficult to get a lower price from an authorized denon dealer. The cost difference to buy a new 4311 (selling my 4310) will be higher than yours... This brought my idea to retain my 4310 to use it as a only amp.

More things and options to think about...

You said the 4311 it's better and more reliable that Onkyo pre-pro. I've no experience with Onkyo brand. Could you explain please???

Thanks again!
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post #4791 of 5197
1/22/12 at 3:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasmin6969 View Post

... The cost difference to buy a new 4311 (selling my 4310) will be higher than yours... This brought my idea to retain my 4310 to use it as a only amp...

But if you keep your 4310, the cost difference to buy a new 4311 will be even higher...
The only Preamplifiers with MultEQ XT32 I know of are: the Integra DHC-80.2 and the ONKYO PR-SC5508 (1800 Euro incl. tax) and PR-SC5509 (2250 Euro incl. tax).
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post #4792 of 5197
1/22/12 at 4:48am
^Yasmin, you bring up an exc point about new technologies "around the corner", but I don't consider 4K a factor at all-even once available it will actually matter only for really large displays. I suppose the question is if you want to upgrade now or just wait. In addition, we could talk about the rest of your gear-for ex., you have nice Kef speakers, but how many channels are you running and what about sub(s) (3.0, 5.1, 7.2, etc)? Also, we should take into account your goals-is it exc stereo and OK HT, exc HT, exc MC music?). For me, I was intent on improving overall SQ for my 7.2 DSX wides system and when I heard about the latest Audyssey breakthrough, I knew it was just a matter of time before I'd have it. And I'm glad I didn't wait for whatever next year may bring as I'm really enjoying it now.

As to separates (and keeping in mind I'd not use my 4310 as the amp), is there an advantage, the idea being to change out the pre/pro for the next model? Not by me. I've found the real bargains in high SQ HT to be certain carefully chosen AVRs, like the Denon 2808, 2809, 4310 and 4311. Especially as I've found reselling those choice models is easy if done while they're still fairly current models. This is a good time to sell a 4310. Also keep in mind it's far easier to resell an AVR than a pre/pro. And doesn't the higher pricing in Europe translate into higher resale used?

The situation in Europe is different in that you can get the SC5509; we cannot in the US, but I don't see that model as having any real significant advantage over the 5508 at all. The Integra versions are the same models but are simply more expensive so I'd just skip them. My criteria was that to be worth relacing the impressive 4310, the new model would have to have XT32 and be Audyssey Pro capable. That leaves out the Onk AVRs (they're not Pro). I strongly considered the 5508 and I was a bit queasy because of a couple things. Some units had some kind of wiring connection issue requiring going into the shop and all the Onkyo/Integ models run quite hot. If you are considering getting one I'd just go to the thread and ask specific questions as to problem risks and for sure plan on getting a fan. The 4311 is problem-free and runs cool (other than some folks having minor occasional fussiness/glitches getting the Web Control Save feature to work) .

As to my decision, I'd gotten an Emotiva XPA5 because my 4310 couldn't drive my Dali Helicon 400s to reference (though my 4311/A100 can!). So I didn't need to buy an amp for 5.2 but if I was to keep the DSX wides I'd need to buy another 2 ch amp if I went with a pre/pro so that effectively added hundreds to the price of a 5508-which here was about the same price as a 4311. In addition, other factors tilted me to the 4311. Denon has the Web Control feature allowing you to save and reload calibrations which I like and has DenonLink for use with a Denon player which has turned out to improve my music SQ off shiny discs. So I'm quite pleased with Denon. Not important for me, but the 4311 is 11.2 capable, the Onk/Int are only 9.2.
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post #4793 of 5197
1/22/12 at 5:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drSeehas View Post

But if you keep your 4310, the cost difference to buy a new 4311 will be even higher...
The only Preamplifiers with MultEQ XT32 I know of are: the Integra DHC-80.2 and the ONKYO PR-SC5508 (1800 Euro incl. tax) and PR-SC5509 (2250 Euro incl. tax).

If a buy a 4311 I'll sell my 4310.

The whole question of all this, is old an one: AVR vs separates. I'm only trying to analizing the pros and cons of each option...

I bought my 4310 in 2009 and only one year later a new hmdi version appears and the only possibility to upgrade is to buy a whole new avr. This and the declining sound quality of each generation of avr makes me prompt about the separates path.
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post #4794 of 5197
1/22/12 at 5:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

^Yasmin, you bring up an exc point about new technologies "around the corner", but I don't consider 4K a factor at all-even once available it will actually matter only for really large displays. I suppose the question is if you want to upgrade now or just wait. In addition, we could talk about the rest of your gear-for ex., you have nice Kef speakers, but how many channels are you running and what about sub(s) (3.0, 5.1, 7.2, etc)? Also, we should take into account your goals-is it exc stereo and OK HT, exc HT, exc MC music?). For me, I was intent on improving overall SQ for my 7.2 DSX wides system and when I heard about the latest Audyssey breakthrough, I knew it was just a matter of time before I'd have it. And I'm glad I didn't wait for whatever next year may bring as I'm really enjoying it now.

As to separates (and keeping in mind I'd not use my 4310 as the amp), is there an advantage, the idea being to change out the pre/pro for the next model? Not by me. I've found the real bargains in high SQ HT to be certain carefully chosen AVRs, like the Denon 2808, 2809, 4310 and 4311. Especially as I've found reselling those choice models is easy if done while they're still fairly current models. This is a good time to sell a 4310. Also keep in mind it's far easier to resell an AVR than a pre/pro. And doesn't the higher pricing in Europe translate into higher resale used?

The situation in Europe is different in that you can get the SC5509; we cannot in the US, but I don't see that model as having any real significant advantage over the 5508 at all. The Integra versions are the same models but are simply more expensive so I'd just skip them. My criteria was that to be worth relacing the impressive 4310, the new model would have to have XT32 and be Audyssey Pro capable. That leaves out the Onk AVRs (they're not Pro). I strongly considered the 5508 and I was a bit queasy because of a couple things. Some units had some kind of wiring connection issue requiring going into the shop and all the Onkyo/Integ models run quite hot. If you are considering getting one I'd just go to the thread and ask specific questions as to problem risks and for sure plan on getting a fan. The 4311 is problem-free and runs cool (other than some folks having minor occasional fussiness/glitches getting the Web Control Save feature to work) .

As to my decision, I'd gotten an Emotiva XPA5 because my 4310 couldn't drive my Dali Helicon 400s to reference (though my 4311/A100 can!). So I didn't need to buy an amp for 5.2 but if I was to keep the DSX wides I'd need to buy another 2 ch amp if I went with a pre/pro so that effectively added hundreds to the price of a 5508-which here was about the same price as a 4311. In addition, other factors tilted me to the 4311. Denon has the Web Control feature allowing you to save and reload calibrations which I like and has DenonLink for use with a Denon player which has turned out to improve my music SQ off shiny discs. So I'm quite pleased with Denon. Not important for me, but the 4311 is 11.2 capable, the Onk/Int are only 9.2.


Thank you SoundofMind! These are exactly the questions I'm making now.
I'll rethink all again with your info...

My system is a 5.1 KefXQ with big towers. DSX wides would be great but I can't put more speakers (or my wife'll kill me!). I've big speakers for stereo, so I'm happy here. My desire to upgrade is another sub (so the XT32 has another benefit for me) and be able to connect in the short future (2 years) a 4K projector.

Only for info, I see other people here selling their 4310 for 800€.

Thanks again!
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post #4795 of 5197
1/22/12 at 6:54am
You're welcome, glad to help. That is an exc plan. I found a second sub very helpful irt smoothing bass after careful placement and DSX wides I can take or leave so don't pine over them.

I am unimpressed by the claims that a pre/pro has better SQ by virtue of not having amps. Frankly, if I'm paying as much or more for a pre/pro as a good AVR that pre/pro better sound significantly better and I doubt that's the case. You have to look at the whole feature set irt what's importanat to you and your budget. I am optimistic that you will find something that will make you happy as you are carefully examining your options amongst high quality AVRs and pre/pros. If the latter, I can recommend matching your pre/pro up with the Emotiva brand-again reliable, good SQ and a bargain irt price=XPA5 for you.

Declining SQ of each generation? I don't agree with that impression. IME some of the old models had heavy beefy amp sections but most Denons including the 4310 did not handle 4 ohms well. Advances have been made in amp design and the 4311 appears to have a very good amp section and handles 4 ohms with ease.

As to overall SQ, IMO the DACs and opamps in general in good AVRs have reached a very good point over the past few years resulting in better SQ. The DSP RC has improved steadily which yields far better SQ. And the features have improved as they steadily trickle down from the top models. IMO this is the case for the 4311 irt 4310.
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post #4796 of 5197
1/22/12 at 8:27am
Hi All,

I've been trolling this site for a few years and find it extremely helpful. For example, I just learned I can run optical for zone2, which is a HUGE relief.

I had my NIC replaced under warranty two weeks ago, so I'm a happier camper now. FWIW, the NJ service center had the part in stock and turned the unit around in just a few days.

A quick search on my current issue didn't produce much, so here is my question:

I have a 2nd gen AppleTV connected via HDMI into my 4310, which connects via HDMI to a Panasonic TC-P50X1C TV. Whenever I turn the TV on or off while streaming music, the audio drops out until I hit pause/play on the remote to start it up again (the ATV display indicates it's playing the entire time). The Rx & TV have "HDMI control" turned off. Should one or both be on? Could this be related to the HDMI cable between the Rx & TV? It's a good quality cable, but it's 12 ft long. Any other suggestions?

Thanks much!
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post #4797 of 5197
1/22/12 at 8:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wile.E.Coyote View Post

Hi All,

I've been trolling this site for a few years and find it extremely helpful. For example, I just learned I can run optical for zone2, which is a HUGE relief.

I had my NIC replaced under warranty two weeks ago, so I'm a happier camper now. FWIW, the NJ service center had the part in stock and turned the unit around in just a few days.

A quick search on my current issue didn't produce much, so here is my question:

I have a 2nd gen AppleTV connected via HDMI into my 4310, which connects via HDMI to a Panasonic TC-P50X1C TV. Whenever I turn the TV on or off while streaming music, the audio drops out until I hit pause/play on the remote to start it up again (the ATV display indicates it's playing the entire time). The Rx & TV have "HDMI control" turned off. Should one or both be on? Could this be related to the HDMI cable between the Rx & TV? It's a good quality cable, but it's 12 ft long. Any other suggestions?

Thanks much!

There isn't any problem with your equipment, I think it's the normal behaviour of hdmi. When you turn on/off the TV, you change the hdmi chain (AppleTV-4310-TV) and it has to be restablished.
This happens also to me with my Samsung UE55B7200 TV and LG BD390 bluray player. This doesn't happen when I stream music directly with the 4310, because the source is not hdmi connected.
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post #4798 of 5197
1/22/12 at 8:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wile.E.Coyote View Post

:

I have a 2nd gen AppleTV connected via HDMI into my 4310, which connects via HDMI to a Panasonic TC-P50X1C TV. Whenever I turn the TV on or off while streaming music, the audio drops out until I hit pause/play on the remote to start it up again (the ATV display indicates it's playing the entire time). The Rx & TV have "HDMI control" turned off. Should one or both be on? Could this be related to the HDMI cable between the Rx & TV? It's a good quality cable, but it's 12 ft long. Any other suggestions?

Thanks much!

I suspect it's an HDMI handshaking issue that you can't do anything about.
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post #4799 of 5197
1/22/12 at 10:18am
Quote:


most Denons including the 4310 did not handle 4 ohms well.

I must disagree with you on this point. Now granted, sensitivity IMO plays a larger role than the ohm factor when it comes to speakers, and I am not real sure what your Dalis are rated at, but my 4310 has absolute zero issues with running my Martin Logan 4 ohm full setup, at reference level. The 4310 barely gets warm after a full length movie @ reference as well.

I for one, really cannot be more pleased with the SQ of the 4310. It is simply, superb. Beyond the well discussed NIC failure that Denon replaced no questions asked, it has truly been the finest AVR I have come across. (of course since getting the 4310, I haven't looked beyond at what is available now. )

As for running a second sub, along with SOM, I highly recommend getting/building a second sub. The added clarity, not to mention the power and effect the dual subs provide the experience, I use a simple 'Y' cable to split the signal. Realistically, that is all an AVR with 2 sub outs is doing, just splitting the signal, however, Audyssey does calibrate them indiviually. Personally, I think Audyssey handled both of my subs quite well as I've not noticed any irregularities in the bass SQ.
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post #4800 of 5197
1/22/12 at 11:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

I must disagree with you on this point. Now granted, sensitivity IMO plays a larger role than the ohm factor when it comes to speakers, and I am not real sure what your Dalis are rated at, but my 4310 has absolute zero issues with running my Martin Logan 4 ohm full setup, at reference level. The 4310 barely gets warm after a full length movie @ reference as well. ...

OK, good points. The 4310 has superb SQ, certainly the best I'd had until XT32. And there are some folks who report good results with their 4 Ohm speakers despite the amp being rated for loads no lower than 6 ohms. The Dalis are around 89dB and remember I'm driving up to 7 of them! The 4310 amp would begin clipping at just under MV=-10dB which is as loud as most folks, including myself, usually listen. It was not a matter of heat but SQ.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Denon AVR-4310CI Thread