2nd Run Cinema - A fabric frame theater - Page 2

The front of the granite counter is 53" from the rear wall and 46" from the face of the column. The granite is 16" wide, so from the rear of the granite to the face of the column it is only 30". I didn't have any more room, and it works great, but if I could have found 6"-12" somewhere it would be nice to have a little more room back there.

I tried the space out and then decided to make the counter 16" wide. I also went with counter height stools rather than bar stools, again after verifying my sight lines.

Hope this helps.

Found this on Myspace. One of my step-son's friends was taking photo's in the theater. I think it turned well - pretty good photoshop skills.

I think he is pretending to do exactly what it looks like.... if it were up to me, I would have left that image out of the pic.

He did add some sort of spot light to simulate an old time projector type bulb light.

Spaceman, I don't have any photos of my fabric install because it's identical to Greg's other than having a french cleat built into each frame.

I looked at your thread. There is no reason that you couldn't use track, but it will not be cheap. Spend some time calculating the length of track that your design requires and add 10-20% for scrap. You'll find that you prefer to use as many 1 section pieces as possible rather than trying to continually piece scraps together. Figure out the cost and weigh that against the cost of building frames.

In my case, there were 64 frames and the cost of doing that in track was more than I wanted to spend. If I had to do it again and if cost were not a factor, I would do track instead of wooden frames. Just from a labor standpoint.

Jlupo - I did not measure the attenuation... it obviously would vary depending on the frequency of the source material. I designed and built the theater as best as I could afford with an eye (and ear) towards keeping as much sound from escaping as possible.

One obvious concession was the door. It's a outside, steel clad door with full weather stripping. The treatment inside the door is more for looks than for sound containment. Having said all that, the door works tremendously well.

We can be in the rooms above the theater and we don't hear anything other than the occasional thump of the sub that sounds like far off thunder... So, for the money I think it was a good value... When I built the room, I knew that the door would be the weakest link and I built it so that I could either change the door or install a communicating door if I was unhappy with the sound containment. But, it has proven to be better than I thought it would be.

Concerning the thickness of the wall, yes that side of the theater was built with a double wall and the trim around the door frame is seperated by a 3/8" gap that is filled with flexible chaulking.... again trying to minimize the amount of vibration that gets passed on the the rest of the home.

As far as the performance of the Green Glue goes - I think the subject has been beat to death on this forum. If you want specific data I suggest you visit the GG website.

Spec4,

The room is 20ft from screen to back wall.

First row eyes are at ~ 10ft.
Second row eyes are at ~ 15ft.
Third row - the back of the granite counter is at 17 ft so there is 3 ft in the rear to move the stools out and to get around them. Another 6"-12" or more would have been ideal but it is very usable.

I have a PDF of the layout but I'm unsure how to post it. If you want a copy send me a PM with your email address.

I assume by 2 doors you mean communicating doors, where you open one to get to the other. I designed my doorway so that I could add a second door but I have not found any reason to do so. I get enough sound isolation from the exterior door and seal that I used.

Nathan,

What in particular are you looking for on the PDF? I've got 20 layers or so in the cad drawing so i need to know which layers you need so I can shut the others off. For instance, you don't need the layer that shows my ceiling joist locations, etc.

let me know and I'll see if I can get a PDF generated... or, if you can accept an Autocad file I can send you the native dwg.

Same construction as GPowers with the exception of mine having a french cleat built into them. The frames are made with 4 pieces of 1/2 MDF glued and brad nailed to 4 pieces of 7/16" plywood. The sides and bottom are all 1" wide but the top is 2" wide and then I ripped the plywood top piece on an angle to form the french cleat. My wife and I setup a little assembly line and we ripped every piece first, then cut them to length, routed some most (but not all since some of the frames have a straight side when they are beside a column.) of the MDF to give it an angled edge, ripped the french cleats and then used a picture frame jig to square them up and glue and nail them together.... we did that times 64. The frames are filled with either 1" insulation or just 2 layers of 1/2" poly, depending on the location of the frame. I didn't want to use insulation everywhere as I was concerned about the room being to dead. I think I ended up with the lower half of the frames having insulation the upper half with the poly. Of course, my soffits have insulation on the bottom of them as well so there is a good bit of deadening going on... but nothing scientific... more of a gut attempt and I am happy with the results.

I'm not on this forum much now that my room is done... sorry for the delay in responding.

All the dimensions are in this thread. I built my wood frames with french cleats designed into them as part of the frame. The top row of frames doesn't use french cleats since they are up against the ceiling. The top row of frames sits on a flat (not angled) cleat and I use velcro to make sure they don't fall off the wall.