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2nd Run Cinema - A fabric frame theater - Page 2

post #31 of 58
This dimension is something I am interested in as well!
post #32 of 58
Thread Starter 
The front of the granite counter is 53" from the rear wall and 46" from the face of the column. The granite is 16" wide, so from the rear of the granite to the face of the column it is only 30". I didn't have any more room, and it works great, but if I could have found 6"-12" somewhere it would be nice to have a little more room back there.

I tried the space out and then decided to make the counter 16" wide. I also went with counter height stools rather than bar stools, again after verifying my sight lines.

Hope this helps.
post #33 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by budk View Post

The front of the granite counter is 53" from the rear wall and 46" from the face of the soffit. The granite is 16" wide. I didn't have any more room, and it works great, but if I could have found 6" somewhere it would be nice to have a little more room back there.

I tried the space out and then decided to make the counter 16" wide. I also went with counter height stools rather than bar stools, again after verifying my sight lines.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Bud, much appreciated..

Brad
post #34 of 58
like the panels ... thinking of something similar.
post #35 of 58
Thread Starter 
Found this on Myspace. One of my step-son's friends was taking photo's in the theater. I think it turned well - pretty good photoshop skills.

post #36 of 58
Great theater budk. Nice work on the door panels.

Dare I ask, "What the heck is the kid in the back corner doing?"
post #37 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie View Post

Great theater budk. Nice work on the door panels.

Dare I ask, "What the heck is the kid in the back corner doing?"

Reminds me of the Blaire Witch ending.
post #38 of 58
Thread Starter 
I think he is pretending to do exactly what it looks like.... if it were up to me, I would have left that image out of the pic.

He did add some sort of spot light to simulate an old time projector type bulb light.
post #39 of 58
Great job Bud. I'm going with the panel look myself but haven't decided between wrapping wood panels like GPowers or using a track system. Do you have any photos of your fabric install? Can you take a look at the preliminary renderings in my build thread and let me know if you think I could pull it off using a track system? I have quite a few panels and I think the track system might get a little pricey.
post #40 of 58
Thread Starter 
Spaceman, I don't have any photos of my fabric install because it's identical to Greg's other than having a french cleat built into each frame.

I looked at your thread. There is no reason that you couldn't use track, but it will not be cheap. Spend some time calculating the length of track that your design requires and add 10-20% for scrap. You'll find that you prefer to use as many 1 section pieces as possible rather than trying to continually piece scraps together. Figure out the cost and weigh that against the cost of building frames.

In my case, there were 64 frames and the cost of doing that in track was more than I wanted to spend. If I had to do it again and if cost were not a factor, I would do track instead of wooden frames. Just from a labor standpoint.
post #41 of 58
I am impressed with you door design. Just curious did you have a chance to measure the attenuation from the source side to the receive side? I would like to know how it compared to the attenuation of the green glue assembly.
post #42 of 58
How did you treat the receive wall (lobby)? From the thickness of the wall it appears possibly double walls? I am very interested in the performance of the green glue.
post #43 of 58
Thread Starter 
Jlupo - I did not measure the attenuation... it obviously would vary depending on the frequency of the source material. I designed and built the theater as best as I could afford with an eye (and ear) towards keeping as much sound from escaping as possible.

One obvious concession was the door. It's a outside, steel clad door with full weather stripping. The treatment inside the door is more for looks than for sound containment. Having said all that, the door works tremendously well.

We can be in the rooms above the theater and we don't hear anything other than the occasional thump of the sub that sounds like far off thunder... So, for the money I think it was a good value... When I built the room, I knew that the door would be the weakest link and I built it so that I could either change the door or install a communicating door if I was unhappy with the sound containment. But, it has proven to be better than I thought it would be.

Concerning the thickness of the wall, yes that side of the theater was built with a double wall and the trim around the door frame is seperated by a 3/8" gap that is filled with flexible chaulking.... again trying to minimize the amount of vibration that gets passed on the the rest of the home.

As far as the performance of the Green Glue goes - I think the subject has been beat to death on this forum. If you want specific data I suggest you visit the GG website.
post #44 of 58
Hey budk, could you tell us the distances from the first, second and third rows to the screen? Also maybe a overall layout, doesn't need to be fancy just a sketch would do. I have a very similar sized room and curious how you fit that 3rd row.

Thanks
JB
post #45 of 58
Thread Starter 
Spec4,

The room is 20ft from screen to back wall.

First row eyes are at ~ 10ft.
Second row eyes are at ~ 15ft.
Third row - the back of the granite counter is at 17 ft so there is 3 ft in the rear to move the stools out and to get around them. Another 6"-12" or more would have been ideal but it is very usable.
post #46 of 58
Thread Starter 
I have a PDF of the layout but I'm unsure how to post it. If you want a copy send me a PM with your email address.
post #47 of 58
Bud,

Your room looks great and I can tell you put a lot of thought into it. My plan for my basement seems similar to what you've done. I like the clean fabric frame look too.

Did you ever consider two doors? I am for isolation reasons, but I feel it might not be the most convenient. I wonder if anyone has made a system where they both open at once.
post #48 of 58
Thread Starter 
I assume by 2 doors you mean communicating doors, where you open one to get to the other. I designed my doorway so that I could add a second door but I have not found any reason to do so. I get enough sound isolation from the exterior door and seal that I used.
post #49 of 58
Yes, I meant communicating doors. I couldn't think of the term. Since you are getting good results with the one door, looks like I will also. These HT builds need to be simplified where they can!
post #50 of 58
Hey Budk, I know this thread has been dormant for a while, but I just wanted to comment on how clean everything looks; nice work!

Also, you had mentioned earlier that you have a PDF of the layout available, do you still have that kicking around? I would love a copy of it if possible. If you wouldn't mind; nathanhdevries@hotmail.com

My future room is alsmot the exact same size, and I am debating the third row as well.


Thanks again, and kudos on the beautifull theatre!

Nathan
post #51 of 58
Thread Starter 
Nathan,

What in particular are you looking for on the PDF? I've got 20 layers or so in the cad drawing so i need to know which layers you need so I can shut the others off. For instance, you don't need the layer that shows my ceiling joist locations, etc.

let me know and I'll see if I can get a PDF generated... or, if you can accept an Autocad file I can send you the native dwg.
post #52 of 58
Hey Bud, I can accept CAD files of all sorts, that would be ideal actually. Sorry for the slow response, I have been away on work for a while. Thanks again, it's greatly appreciated!

Take care

Nathan
post #53 of 58
Bud,

Your theater looks AMAZING! I LOVE the fabric look! LOVE it!

I would like to replicate this for my room. Could you tell me how you built the fabric panels? I understand the GOM fabric but what is it mounted on, is there padding, etc?

Oh, and the door is FANTASTIC as well. I'd really like to do something similar as I have 2 doors on my front wall (entrance and closet.)

Thanks,
Cory
post #54 of 58
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by manthatsnice View Post

Bud,

Your theater looks AMAZING! I LOVE the fabric look! LOVE it!

I would like to replicate this for my room. Could you tell me how you built the fabric panels? I understand the GOM fabric but what is it mounted on, is there padding, etc?

Oh, and the door is FANTASTIC as well. I'd really like to do something similar as I have 2 doors on my front wall (entrance and closet.)

Thanks,
Cory

Same construction as GPowers with the exception of mine having a french cleat built into them. The frames are made with 4 pieces of 1/2 MDF glued and brad nailed to 4 pieces of 7/16" plywood. The sides and bottom are all 1" wide but the top is 2" wide and then I ripped the plywood top piece on an angle to form the french cleat. My wife and I setup a little assembly line and we ripped every piece first, then cut them to length, routed some most (but not all since some of the frames have a straight side when they are beside a column.) of the MDF to give it an angled edge, ripped the french cleats and then used a picture frame jig to square them up and glue and nail them together.... we did that times 64. The frames are filled with either 1" insulation or just 2 layers of 1/2" poly, depending on the location of the frame. I didn't want to use insulation everywhere as I was concerned about the room being to dead. I think I ended up with the lower half of the frames having insulation the upper half with the poly. Of course, my soffits have insulation on the bottom of them as well so there is a good bit of deadening going on... but nothing scientific... more of a gut attempt and I am happy with the results.

I'm not on this forum much now that my room is done... sorry for the delay in responding.
post #55 of 58
I am looking to do a counter also. My room is about the same length at 21'. I have a width of 12'4" though. Could you give me some details on how you built your counter and the dimentions?
post #56 of 58
Nice looking HT!!!! I'm starting mines real soon and was wondering how did you attach panels to walls, and how far from screen is your first row of seats. My space is 12x23x8 and I wasn't sure I could get 3 rows of seats in it or not.
post #57 of 58
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwmd View Post

Nice looking HT!!!! I'm starting mines real soon and was wondering how did you attach panels to walls, and how far from screen is your first row of seats. My space is 12x23x8 and I wasn't sure I could get 3 rows of seats in it or not.

All the dimensions are in this thread. I built my wood frames with french cleats designed into them as part of the frame. The top row of frames doesn't use french cleats since they are up against the ceiling. The top row of frames sits on a flat (not angled) cleat and I use velcro to make sure they don't fall off the wall.
post #58 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by budk View Post

Here are the pictures of the hinge that moves the mdf door panel and frames. Remember that this is the only purpose of the hinge as the door itself is mounted with 3 heavy duty hinges. Ignore the colors in the photo... everything really does match but the camera doesn't show that.


This is the hinge mounted to the door frame extension and the angle mounted to the slinding MDF.




Here is a few of the same hinge/angle without the frame mounted.




I purchased an extra hinge just in case I needed it and cut a 2nd angle but I didn't bother to drill holes in it. I don't expect to need this.




A pic of the lengthened (welded) door mechanism.




Handle mounted. There is a little more to it than appears. The assembly process necessitated some modifications (holes) in the mdf that I didn't plan for, but since the mdf is covered with the fabric frames you never notice it.




I'll try to answer any other questions.


Thanks for looking.

I know this is an old thread Bud, that's brilliant -- I have the same issue w/my door and was wondering how to spiff it up. Just about gave up till I stumbled on your solution. I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to steal your idea... if I can actually replicate it. One question: is the slide distance for the panels variable/adjustable by fiddling with the angle between the metal bracket and throw hinge? My door is set inward a bit more than yours, so I may need the panels to move a tad more when the door is opened. I think the geometry is such that when you tweak angles b/w metal bracket and hinge, the slide distance should change, but I'm not sure.

Oh, one other thing - I can see your first slide hinge in the middle of the door, but you mentioned using two slides, so where is the second one? And why did you mount the slide that's visible in the middle of the door vs. at the top and bottom (is there any functional reason or aesthetics only?). Many thanks!!
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