Sharp 700UN LED backlit series [No Price Talk] - Page 84

I know I can't talk pricing, but I saw this TV, 52", on clearance for $1299 (CDN). I am looking for a 50"+ LCD/LED and considering I can't find the Quattron 920 that's on sale anywhere (which is my 1st choice). Can anyone convince me to jump the gun here? Or suggest me anything different for around that price?

I've tried capturing the banding with a camera and I can't (it turns out like your photo's where you can barely see it)

If any of the posters here could see it in motion, it would bug them too. A massive band the size of a meter stick shows up every time metal, concrete, the night sky, or any other kind of gray image comes on screen. It's distracting and annoying.

The problem is that it will be equally annoying and tedious to call and try to get it replaced. Problem is there are pretty much 0 other TV's that have this low of an input lag, and that is a major factor for me and my video games. The Quattrons have horrific clouding so that isn't an option either.

Maybe I'll hold onto it till the 11th month of my warranty, call and try to get it replaced, and if I can't, sell it and try looking for a new model of TV.

Absolutely get it. I got the 52 inch for that price at futureshop and I'm extremely happy with it so far.

I haven't had any of the motion blur or banding problems that some people seem to have, and I'm using it for gaming on the xbox, watching DVDs, and watching TV. I don't have a blu-ray player or HDTV yet, but I don't see why i'd have any issues at this point.

What I really like is how crisp this TV looks compared to other brands and to some degree the new quattrons.

Would you mind posting which firmware version you have?

Hi Everyone,

I am currently reading through the 80 plus pages of the thread but was hopping that I could get some guidance in the meantime. I picked this tv up yesterday going from a Sammy 720p series 4 plasma (lots of problems) to this. I was originally going to go with another sammy the 1080p (pn50c540) but got a deal on this and decided to give it a try.

In the store the color and black levels seemed a lot better on the sharp, not sure what the sammy was set at in the store though. This was a slight driving factor to buying, plus the lower energy consumption.

Most of my watching I try to in HD. I have found that SD content does not look as good as it did on my 720 sammy. This includes video files that used to look as good as dvd. I have found the SD picture to have a weird overall look to it, it is kind of hard to explain but it just doesn't look natural. Almost like it was filmed with low quality production. I have played with picture settings and this has minimized it.

Now I am wondering what are some things I need to look out for? I think I might have a banding issues as I was using AVIA to set the picture I could see on a grey screen that there was a darker column down the left middle of the screen. This seemed to come through on a hockey game causing the ice to have a yellowish look to it. I have attached a pic, is this banding and should I be returning the unit?

So far I have found modern warfare 2 to have weird panning on it when I play. Not sure if this is a setting that is causing it or that I just hadn't played it so long on my Plasma that I forgot what it looked like.

This is my second HD tv so I only have experience with Plasma. Can someone please let me know their overall thoughts on this TV and possible issues that I should look out for?

I have 30 days to exchange and what to check over everything to make sure I don't regret the switch.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Yeah that's pretty much what mine looks like. It's banding alright.

It's funny because I bought this TV to replace my old Samsung which had a lot of clouding. Now this TV has no clouding, but a ton of banding. Man this blows. It seems like there are no TV's out there with no defects.

Hi All,
I've had my LC-52LE700UN for about 11 months now (purchased March 2010). Previously I never had (or maybe just never noticed) any buzzing from the set, but recently it seems to have become very noticeable. During breaks between commercials and content on TV I can hear it, as well as when I change inputs (Ex: cable switching to bluray), most likely due to the lack of sound during those times. If I have the TV muted I can hear the buzzing a good 8-9 feet away from the set. After searching the thread I saw many had this issue and the only fix was to increase the backlight to max. I also noticed if you go into any of the demo modes the buzzing goes away (assuming demo modes are overriding backlight to max).

Just curious if anyone else is in the same boat as me, where the buzzing has popped up or become worse throughout owning the TV. On average I'd say I use the TV about 3hrs a day. I'm also curious if anyone else had any luck with Sharp repairing/replacing the unit just for the buzzing issue. I really love everything else about the TV except for this one thing. Any advice is welcome as I'm quickly coming up on my 12months of warranty ending in about 40 days.

Thanks,
Dan

Turns out my set just started developing diagonal lines thru the picture. Fairly faint, but noticeable and annoying especially during panning of the camera. Tried multiple HDMI inputs/cables, but no luck. My PS3 and cable box were both showing the issue, and over HDMI and component. Very disappointing, but luckily the problem showed up right before my 1 year was up. In talking to sharp they're offering the LE810 as a replacement, but of course that's edge lit instead of array backlit so i'm nervous about the clouding and uniformity issues. I'm still reading thru the official LE810 thread, but i'm not sure I really have any other options here. Has anyone had any luck negotiating/begging Sharp to offer the 920 series instead? (which supposedly has better lighting uniformity from what I read above)

Thanks in advance,
Dan

I've had mine now coming up on a year I believe. I'll have to check the receipt.

Anyway, I haven't done a firmware update since I got it. Can someone please tell me the site that it's on and if there have been any updates lately?

Bumping...mainly for a possible firmware update as well.

The pixel smearing is really starting to get to me. Been playing Sly Collection for PS3 and all the beautiful deep-color scenes are ruined by the incessant blurring.

Also...if I were to send in my set to Sharp while under warranty (for whatever reason), what would be the most likely set that they would replace it with?

You can go to Sharp's website and enter the model number (such as LC-40LE700UN) on the download page and it has the latest firmware available for download. I've had my TV for almost a year now and the version on Sharp's page (U0911201) is the same one that came on my TV. You can see what version you have by putting your set in "TV" input mode (even if you don't have an antenna hooked up) and picking the "Identification" setting from the Menu items at the top (it is the last one on the right, I think says something about Digital or Digitial setup...I'm not by the TV now).

It says mine has U1004261. Got my TV about mid 2010. I always assumed that a higher number would mean more recent firmware. Could this not be the case? Would there be any harm in trying the firmware from Sharp's site?

I agree that the higher number should be more recent. I would not try the one from Sharp's site and go to an older version. Curious as to why Sharp's site does not show the newest version.

Maybe it DOES cause increased blurring...is there any way to backup my current firmware from my TV so I can try out the older one?

Not aware of a way to do that as the USB to TV to upgrade only works one way. You can't put the software from your TV onto the USB drive.

Hi guys,

I don't know what is wrong, but lately my HDTV's HDMI Port is going bad or at least I think it is. If I connect cable tv's HDMI port to any other port, the TV works without resetting itself. But if I connect to Port 8, the HDTV keeps on resetting itself after a few minutes. Sometimes it does after 30 minutes but after a while watching tv, it keeps on resetting after few minutes. It is really bad.

The tv is Sharp LC40LE700un

The HDTV is not even a year old. Also it is under warranty under Dell. The tv is great, but this is just sad. Should I call dell up and ask them to exchange the tv and send us the new one.

Here's a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vKMPEX_9Vw

If you haven't already, disconnect the AC power cord from the TV for a few minutes (maybe 10 minutes to be safe) and reconnect.

Also try a factory reset (write down your setting first!).

It's a long shot, but worth a try.

Thank you for the advice.

I just connected Cable HDMI to a different port and the tv is working as it should. Its only that port. How should I do a factory reset?

I can't remember what level of reset this tv can do. It might be as uneventful as just resetting to factory defaults (just the factory default settings), which I remember seeing in the menus. Each menu had a 'reset' function which might only reset to the default settings. Still worth it to try.

There might be a service menu reset, but you'll have to ask Sharp about that.

Also, a lot of times hdmi handshaking issues pop up when you change the order of device turn on. So if you say turned your TV last all the time, but now turn it on first, go back to the order of turn on.

Still, it doesn't really explain why only that one port is an issue.

I guess I will have to call Sharp up. The other reset only resets for that input.

I just had the tv unplugged for a good 40 minutes.

This is really weird, I just tried a HDMI from my ps3 at port 8... The PS3 worked with no problem. Now hear this, if I connect the Cable's HDMI into input port 5 or 7 it works with no problem. But does the refreshing thing only at port 8.

Weird and very confusing.

I'm not sure where this needs to be posted but I discovered today that INPUT6 AND INPUT8 are no longer working on my LC-52LE700UN. I did a firmware update but still no go. Question are:

1. Has anyone else had this happen on their TV?
2. Anyone know if this can be a software issue and how to fix it?.
3. If this is a hardware issue, does anyone know where I should go to get this fixed and how much it might be?

Any help would be appreciated. If there is a better section to post this in please let me know. Thanks.