Problem with Panasonic PT-43LC14: Yellow tint covering most of screen. Convergence ok - Page 7

Well the piece from Superlemur did not work on my Sony KDF-E50A10. Not sure why but I believe it is blocking all the blue. with the filter in place all I get out of the projector is a green color I can adjust it to lighten the green a little but not enough. Maybe because the sony only uses one filter and I believe the Panasonic uses 2. If anyone has any of the vermillion left I would like to try that if not I am back to square one. If anyone has any suggestions please pipe in. Does anyone know what would happen if I ran it without the filter in place? To much blue perhaps.

Hey tjsilva,

I actually just finished up my repair on my PT-43LC14 using the film square from superlemur (thanks if youre reading this!) and it works perfectly so it appears likely that its an incompatibility with your model

For those attempting this fix, here are a couple of things that I found useful and I'm not sure if they were clarified in this thread yet:

1. No adhesive is necessary - the square provided by superlemur is cut to the same dimensions of the glass backing and there are grooves which hold both in place so no positioning of the film is necessary.
2. Use magnetic tipped phillips heads. Have one rather long screwdriver ~8" you'll need this for one of the screws holding the light engine in place and have a small phillips head to remove a tiny screw holding the polarizer casing in place (I used a 1.6mm).
3. I had no problem removing the burnt film by sliding a new razor blade underneath.
4. The previous adhesive came off easily when I soaked it in a little isopropyl alcohol and scraped carefully with the blade.

Do you know if your set has an input and output polarizer? I am reading some do and mine only has one. I'm gonna play with it some more.

My set has 3 polarizers. I'm not sure of the path the light takes through these polarizers so I don't know if they are input or output. In my case, it was clear which polarizer was burnt and I didn't look at the others. There is a picture shawnmos posted in the beginning of this thread of the setup of the light engine of this model. Did you see the burn marks on your film when you took your sony apart?

I would like to thank superlemur for sending me the replacement polarized filter. It completely fixed the yellow areas on my aging Panasonic.

I've included some before/after pics for those interested.

Yes I see the burned orangish filter. I removed it and replaced it with the piece from super lemur. the color coming out of the projector is washed out green with the new piece in place, this is before reassembly of the back of the tv.

I'm so happy i found this thread. I bought two of the pre-cut filters (wanted a spare in case i screwed up).

I took some pics I'll try to post a follow-up because a few things were different at least on the PT-50LC13 I repaired last night.

It is very time consuming to repair. Including cleaning the filter plate after scraping off the gunk from the adhesive which is apparently the root source of the manufacturing DEFECT of this part (incompatible adhesive with the particular frequency of light is my guess). I used 190 proof (95%) grain alcohol to help de-gunk the plate but also incorporated some goo-gone; that glue is total disaster to remove.

It's really only about a 6/10 difficultly, definitely not easy but anybody with decent DIY skill will be able to pull it off.

Don't bother getting the $220 part (with the same MFG defect pre-installed surely), get the $10 piece and fix it yourself, you'll make yourself proud!

So, without the pictures here are some helpful hints for somebody doing this repair:

• Get the repair manual and find a how-to somebody else has already outlined
• You do NOT need to remove the TV tuner, though the manual states you do; you can leave the ballast mostly attached and swing it out of the way
• I only removed ONE cable from the ballast over to the top of the lamp assembly
• when removing the polarizer plate, it was impossible on the 50" model to remove before removing the EMI metal shielded PCB
• To remove the EMI shielded PCB there are 4 screws and a handful of plug-in connectors, and of course all THREE ribbon cables over the top
• VERY important! the ZIF (zero insertion force) ribbons going over the top of the polarizer plates are NON-STANDARD; the release pulls UP and NOT out; i almost broke mine

I didn't even have to take my TV off the wall (i made a wall mount for it; contact me if you'd like to move your monster off the floor and onto the wall; it was very easy to do; it feels just like a plasma TV and doesn't take up a quarter of the room anymore!).

Thanks to the Two guys that helped a TON with details and links to the manual (and of course the pre-cut part saving me the trouble of figuring out the exact polarization angle etc).

oh; There is a yellow tint to the original filter and the replacement is just gray, so there will maybe be a slightly hotter blue color but It looked perfectly fine, i didn't even bother trying to hue/tint correct.

super-mega happy, now i can postpone replacement for maybe another year or two, saving maybe $900-1200.

If the sony uses the same concept of polarized filter and isn't just a color filter than more than likely they just use a different angle. if you cross-polarized, you will have removed all the blue inadvertently.

if you have the original piece you can hopefully determine this by holding the replacement piece of film in front of the original film and rotating one piece 90°.

When the film was still on the glass it was FAR more obvious, once i removed it it's much more subtle, mostly just chaining darker orange, however if it's not too difficult to pull the light engine out, trial-and-error may be your best bet.

If the blue is darn near gone then the polarizing filter is crossed or 90°, I would rotate the film 90° and re-install (of course you'd have to cut it down and it won't be complete so you'd need to get a new piece but at least you'd know).

I'm pretty sure you can use the film from 3D glasses, but you'd have to figure out the angle so keep the scrap for reference.

The correct angle is when it's brightest and 90° from when darkest. (eg. if i'm correct and turning the film 90° gets your blue back, use the turned piece as reference, and using the new film (from 3D glasses or 'clip on' polarized sunglass film), turn until it's as dark as possible then turn 90° it will be bright as possible (it's easier to see the darkest so I use that reference and cut it so it ends up 90° turned from the darkest).

post results if it works.

I just read this thread from beggining to end and I am very surprised it is still current. I purchased my unit off Craigslist PT-50LC13 and replaced the bulb only to see yellow tint on the screen.

Question andrewwynn where did you buy your pre cut filters?

I emailed superlemur I'm not sure if the one he sends will work on my unit.

superlemur i believe. I actually found his email address and sent directly. I also wrote one other person and got the repair manual which helps for removing the light engine.

The pictures in the manual are nearly useless I'm sorry to say I didn't take any pics inside during disassembly but a couple notes I may not have posted:

1) one or two external screws share internal holes. You will serve yourself if you take a digital pic at each level to recall screws locations.
2) there is a tiny cable that goes deep inside: there is a tiny plastic post to hold it during disassembly and re-assembly
3) it's possible to not remove TV tuner and ballast by swinging ballast aside as mentioned
4) don't forget the metal plate in the back: I set mine flat against a wall and forgot. Pretty big extra part: I was so proud no extra screws but I had a 9 x 10" extra metal plate!
5) I plan to upload pics that I took that will help with the final steps
6) people switch front-back and left-right a lot with descriptions because they work from the back of the set and call the back the front (nearest you) or the right side of set the left so be aware that may be the case.
7) whenever possible disconnect cables by the connector. Be especially careful on the zero insertion force cables: non standard compared with computers: they flip UP and not pulled sideways!
8) you will need to remove all three ZIF cables around the prisms and remove the metal shrouded PCB to get the part out and in: I did not see that in the descriptions
9) right above the white plastic part there is a black plastic plate with some foam at the bottom that pulls straight up: it's all black so very hard to tell its a separate part
10) plan for about 3-4 total hours

You will be very happy with your Craig's list score once you refurbish that TV. It's a damn fine tv when working properly!

Ps: the TV I just repaired is the exact same model: PT-50LC13 and the cut piece fit perfectly fine.

Remove the glass from the white holder to razor off the film: use alcohol or goo gone and razor blade. I dipped my razor in alcohol and let the alcohol wick ahead of where I was and took my time (about 5 minutes) to strip the old film.

I have 95% alcohol and washed my finger tips so I can't leave finger prints before re-assembly. (Sold at liquor stores as 190 proof grain alcohol) tangent; google everclear apple pie

I put the glass back in the frame first then added the film on after.

I cleaned the glass with soap and water followed by clean cloth then wiped the film with clean cloth to remove any dust after assembly. It took as long to get all the glue goo off as to take the film off the glass.

The film is not in a focus plane so minor scratches will not affect output so don't fret minor scratches in the film.

Fix your set and post results.

Some pics as promised.


My melted filter


Close up of filter location under ribbon cable


Here is the filter (in holder). Note that the assembly screw that holds the part is below the circuit board.


Here is a pic of the air dam removed. It slides straight up.


Here is the metal encased circuit board flipped out of the way.


Here is the buried screw that holds the part down.


Showing the PCB removed as well as blue filter removed (left)


Here is my fixed filter.

Notice it's just gray no yellow tint. No significant visible difference thankfully! Likely a slightly brighter blue overall but you'd have to compare A-B to see then difference.

When re-assembling the filter, I put the de-gunked (glue goo) glass back In first then I put in the plastic filter on top and under the three clips.

If the filter doesn't fit first go I'd trim off a bit and try again.


Ballast flipped over rather than removed. There are some heavy duty connections between the ballast and tv tuner. The manual states you must remove TV tuner with the ballast but the reality is you can flip it out of the way after disconnecting just one cable going over to the light box assembly.

Post your success story! Keep this thread of help going.

I also replaced the polarizer film with the piece I got from superlemur... $10 later and my TV was as good as new. I'm no TV expert, but if you can turn a screwdriver, have patience, and can follow step by step instructions then you should be able to handle it. There is a bit of disassembly to do and it took every bit of about 2 hours, but I was in no hurry and took my time.

Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread!

need of piece of vermilion polarizing film for blue polarizer on a pt50lc14 tv.

I own a Panasonic PT-60LC14 which I bought in August 2004. Since then, I only had to replace the bulb once. But over the last few months I've noticed the yellow/green blob in the middle of the screen. It appears to be getting worse. I have no problem trying to repair the problem myself, I just want to make sure I buy and replace the right parts.

A few questions

1. Which polarizer needs to be replaced?
2. Do all of them need to be replaced or just one?
3. Which websites would you recommend I buy from?
4. How difficult of a job is this?

Lastly, after this problem is fixed, I want to re-calibrate the settings. Does anyone know what the settings are for this set or where I can get a calibration disc? I checked Tweak My TV, but they did not have my set listed

I appreciate any help that any of you can provide

Thanks,

slider
slider9499@gmail.com

1. as with most of us on this thread; the BLUE polarizer is the only one that gets damaged. Blue is the opposite of yellow, so when blue is blocked by the dirt, there will be yellow tint in that place. The opposite of RED is CYAN (similar to sky blue) and opposite of GREEN is MAGENTA (bright pinkish color), The only tints that can appear by blocking filters are either YELLOW (blue filter), CYAN (red filter) or MAGENTA (green filter). I've only ever heard of the blue filter being damaged; probably because the higher energy of blue wavelength (just a guess).
2. Just the blue will do it; look at some of the pictures you see online of the 'before', i'm sure you'll see it very similar. Since there is still *some* blue getting through, the yellow tint will make blues look green. look at a pure-white screen or look at WHITE text; in my brother's case the subtitle text was almost pure yellow where affected.
3. get the piece from "superlemur" on this site. ppal $10 and have your ship-to address in your paypal account and you'll get the piece in a few days.
4. It's tedious but not terrible. there is no 'adjustment' needed, just don't modify anything in the light engine. Look at the pictures i posted; there are a couple steps that were missing in the directions that I had.

You can contact me if you don't find them elsewhere, i have a PDF of the repair manual, it wasn't super helpful but was a little helpful. Somebody from the forum sent me the URL for it.

You might be able to find it online by an exact google search for: "Service Manual PT-50LC13.pdf" (don't worry if the size is different; I did the 50" model, not sure which model you have).

So, it took me 2-3 hours start to finish; the TV looks as good as new and several months later it still looks great.

I wanted to share a Very elegant fix I have for this TV: how to wall-mount it!

Before:


After!:


Side-view of after:


And some pics without the TV mounted:








I bought a TV stand with built-in table for DVD player, etc, and a big flat 'foot' for the ground, and I re-engineered it.

1. I flipped front-to-back and made the bracket become the wall-mount
2. I swapped the 'foot' and 'table' so the large 'foot' becomes the table top for the TV and the 'table' still is for the DVD etc but hangs below the TV
3. I added a support at the bottom to hold the bracket away from the wall

I didn't need to drill any extra holes; the shelves (table/foot) were symmetrical and I was able to connect them to the upright on the 'wrong side' to flip the TV bracket into the wall bracket.

it's a home-run solution to clean up the very bulky stand that comes with the TV. A crazy coincidence with this stand was that the foot has a curve that matches within ¼" the curve of the front of the TV! Not sure if that shows in the pictures.

If anybody is interested in making the exact same wall mount i could try to find out the exact model stand i bought (it was about $80).

I ended up NOT using the glass panel for the 'foot'; that's what you see in the corner next to the TV and I used some 'L brackets' to screw the back of the TV down to the metal bracket so it can't tip off. It kind of looks like there is a wire to keep the TV from tipping off in the side-view, that's just a wire for a game machine's input that sits on the top of the TV.

-awr

1. Blue for sure. blue filter causes yellow blobs, red filter would be cyan (sky blueish) and green would be magenta. impossible to have 'green' so that's just the fact blue and red are reduced. look at the WHITE text of a subtitle, it's probably only showing YELLOW like my brother's set
2. Just BLUE
3. superlemur is source for the piece of film you need. $10 paypal, you'll get it in regular mail in a few days.
4. It's about a 5/10 difficulty and about a 7/10 tedious. It will be an 'all afternoon' project. Be VERY careful with the connectors; read my posts I mention the particular one that works differently than usual and could be easy to break.

I was sent the service manual for the 50" model, it was a little bit helpful; the tips from the forum were more useful. you can google search "Service Manual PT-50LC13.pdf" to see if you can find the manual (change to your model # if it's not 50).

Post feedback so we know you had success.

-awr

My tv is doing the same yellow thing.... can i take it apart and do the same thing....Its a ..PT-43LC14....I just changed the lamp It made it a lot brighter...But the yellow is still there...Can you help me fix it?

you came to the right place. all the steps are pretty much shown on this thread. you can buy the piece you need from superlemur, just use message. If you aren't super 'handy' get some help, it's involved no doubt, but not terribly difficult.

the very basic rundown is this:

1. remove back of TV
2. disconnect some wires from ballast and lamp
3. move ballast out of the way
4. remove light engine from tv
5. remove fan ductwork
6. remove circuit board
7. remove defective part
8. remove burnt filter
9. replace burnt filter with piece from superlemur
10. re-assemble in reverse

There are just a couple parts you can damage, there is a fragile wire attached to a sensor in the front of the TV, and the connectors to the circuit board around the filters are tricky to disconnect, read my earlier descriptions.

You've got 'nothing to lose' to try to fix it; an official repair costs more than replacement. (i just bought a samsung 3D 1080p plasma for $700!). If you take your time and are cautious you'll pull it off like the dozen or so people in this thread; i don't recall reading a non-success post other than a non-panasonic and one case where somebody replaced the wrong filter (not blue).

-awr

Out of curiosity, do any of you who did this find that your screen is darker than before? I was thinking it was the orientation of the piece but I don't want to take the tv apart again unless I have to.

I never noticed it before but I got a new-to-me rear projection DLP Toshiba that is a lot brighter than the Panasonic currently is.

perhaps the yellow tint just made you think it was brighter (like using yellow-tint glasses for hunting/driving). I can believe it would 'feel darker', but not going to be caused by the polarizing film, other than a SLIGHT amount because the makeshift polarizer is darker than the original. Hope your lamp's not just wearing out.

if the piece was 'crossed' polarized, you'd get virtually NO blue and all yellow but i'd be even through the whole screen.

Nah, it's definitely darker; almost like it's going through two filters instead of just one.

I might just take a closer look to see if there's something in there that shouldn't.

if the color isn't shifted (white = white) then it can't be JUST one filter.

if BLUE is darker it will make white YELLOW
if RED is darker it will make white CYAN (sky-blue)
if GREEN is darker it will make white MAGENTA (deep pink)

if your set can display white as white you didn't mess up a single color; maybe the lamp is misaligned after re-installing everything? if everything dark it suggests a problem with the lamp or the light path from the lamp.

Any more of the polarized film left? I have a Panasonic pt-43lc14 I just bought for $75 and it had the yellow stain screen. I've already taken it apart and removed the damaged film.

If any one still has some left, I'll buy it.

I am also looking for some of this film to repair my PT-50LC14

As of May 2013, I still have plenty of polarizer pieces that will repair your yellowed areas on Panasonic models PT-43LC14, PT-50LC14 and PT-60LC14. send request to spanner56@aol.com

Many thanks to all who contributed to this thread!! With your help my old TV now looks as good as new!

Some tips that may help others doing this repair:

I found it helpful to use little paper cups (like you use in the bathroom) to keep the screws in, one cup for each step in the instructions. Then when reassembling just work the instructions backwards and you have the screws for each step nicely organized to keep confusion to the minimum.

Like andrewwynn had stated in one of his posts, some screws are shared with the screws the hold on the back panel. Once the back is off you’ll see the screw holes that appear to be missing screws, there a couple in the optical unit. I marked them with a marker so I wouldn’t be freaking out looking for missing screws when reassembling.

The problematic release lever for the ZIF cable is actually UNDER the ribbon cable itself, with a tab on each end visible from above, if you lift the ribbon cable a bit you can see it. I used a toothpick to GENTLY pop it up.

It really wasn’t as hard as I thought it was gonna be, took me about 2.5 hours, an hour of that was spent cleaning off the old adhesive from the glass.
I had to borrow some Goo Gone from my neighbor, and when I told him what I was doing he looked at me like I had suddenly sprouted a third arm from my chest… He repairs TV’s for a living and said if I was a client he would just tell me to buy a new TV LOL!!

Again thank you to all who provided the info for this thread, and an extra thanks to superlemur for providing the polarizer!!!

and i bet at least once during that 2 ½ hours, you wish you actually had that third arm!

I'm happy to report that after 4-5 months, my brothers TV is working great. Put off replacing a 50" TV for probably a year or more.

I found a decent source for the lamps; we only replaced it once, but we inadvertently bought the wrong one and they shipped a replacement w/o even charging add'l shipping. I will see if i can find that source.

Would have made it easier to get the film on the glass and into that tiny little holder!!