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*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 2310CI / 890 Owner's Thread - Page 100

post #2971 of 7033
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by revolead View Post

I mean that stock from the box, using the MultiEQ setting worked well, and then after performing an Audyessy setup using the provided mic, the sound becomes overprocessed at louder volumes.

As JD pointed out above, this makes zero sense and it is why I prompted you for additional clarification. You CAN'T use the MultiEQ setting until you run Audyssey!!! It's literally impossible!

So, it seems what you are saying is that you are displeased with the results you are getting from Audyssey. The first thing is to make sure you have correctly followed the Audyssey setup guide and used proper technique when running Audyssey calibration. The following are common things which can affect the calibration:

1. speaker placement/position -- speakers should be placed as close as possible to recommended angles for your setup, ideally "toed in" so that tweeters are pointed towards the listening area. also, tweeters should be as close as possible to ear height for the front three (surrounds should be a couple of feet higher). Do you have any speakers that are way out of position, especially the center channel? For example, is your center really low, stuck inside a cabinet, etc?

2. using a tripod!! if you ran Audyssey by holding the mic in your hand or sitting it on the sofa seat you will get poor results.

3. following the measurement position guidelines, specifically making sure the first position is in the "sweet spot" in the center of the "listening bubble" and then keeping the follow measurements within a tight cluster (2' diameter) around the first position. If you tried to, for example, include a seat way off to the side and thus you took a measurement way outside of the center axis of your front speakers, you could really skew the results.
post #2972 of 7033
Batpig and jsmoothie:

I understand what you meant now. I think all I was doing was switching the amp (stock) between stereo and direct, which would explain why I thought the MultiEQ setting was running. I thought maybe Denon put in some factory Audyessy setting, hence the confusion. I promise I'm not as stupid as I probably initally sounded.

After thinking it over a couple days, I realized two things about what I'm trying to accomplish that would explain why Audyessy sounds awful to me. I used a tripod and picked the proper settings, etc., so no need to worry about that. I also reviewed your setup guide afterward, batpig, but I'm good at figuring stuff out without a manual or additional instructions. I came here because I thought for sure you guys would have played around with it more than I and would be able to tell me if I'm doing something wrong. Anyway, here goes my issues.

(1) Audyessy is mostly for 5.1 systems. I do not have a 5.1 system. I rent a room from some friends and I have two great speakers and a subwoofer in a small 13.5x9.5x8 room. Bass waves hang and I've got five acoustic modes below 150 hz. Treble is well-absorbed and doesn't appear to be an issue, mids sound great as well. For this setup, I don't think Audyessy really accomplishes what I expected. No discredit to the folks there; I'm just not convinced they designed it for 2.1 systems, especially people like me who still use a phono input.

(2) Having explained all that, I hate EQs and overmodulated sound for the most part. I come out of playing guitar, where half my effects are analog circuits, my guitar amp is a class A/B tube. I have little patience for audio that sounds fake or hyped up for the digital age. After talking to a guy at Ultimate Electronics today (who has a BS in sound production, interestingly), I realize I'm not alone and he recommended not using the Audyessy settings at all, if I wasn't happy with them. I agree. So, instead of worrying about Audyessy, I realized my prob was I didn't have enough bass support, so I bought a small subwoofer today, and it seems to have improved everything. I still have to keep everything very low (the 2310 is at +0dB for the LFE output and the subwoofer gain is extremely low) because of how much bass carries in my small room, which in another life, could be used as a bass trap for the room next door.

In short, my room has terrible acoustics (though I've tried to remedy this as much as possible) and I'm a huge fan of pure direct audio. The Denon 2310 does a great job with pure direct, so no regrets about the purchase. I just don't really have a use for Audyessy.

Thanks for your help and patience (I've been on Percocet on and off the last week or so for a surgery I had last Monday, which might explain my lack of clarity in the previous messages).

-Rev
post #2973 of 7033
Thread Starter 
No worries my man this new tech is quite confusing and there is no shame in the learning curve, we just didn't understand what was going on! this more thorough explanation is helpful.

The Percocet is a convenient excuse though

a couple of thoughts/clarifications:

Quote:


(1) Audyessy is mostly for 5.1 systems.

this is false, and a common misconception.

Audyssey designs their products to solve problems -- in the case of MultEQ, it is correcting for room acoustics. In that respect, it is irrelevant how many speakers you have. Each speaker is filtered independently to produce a flat response (well, actually not totally flat with the Audyssey curve but close enough for the sake of argument...). Whether you have five speakers or two speakers, you would still like each speaker to measure flat.

To take your example -- the problem with your room is the multiple severe modes below 150Hz -- what does that have to with the quantity of speakers? If you have a 2.1 setup or a 5.1 setup, your subwoofer (and the room in general) is going to have these problems!

In fact, what you describe is precisely what Audyssey was designed for; namely, correcting for the acoustic issues in your room. And it is why most of the processing resources are devoted to the subwoofer channel, something which differentiates it from other EQ systems (many of which don't even EQ the sub).

Now, whether you are happy with the results is another thing, but the idea that "this isn't what it is designed for" is really not accurate. No EQ can fix an infinite mode of course, but you should (in theory) obtain flatter/cleaner bass response by using MultEQ and then utilizing bass management to redirect those troublesome low freq's to the more powerful filters of the SW channel.

Quote:


In short, my room has terrible acoustics (though I've tried to remedy this as much as possible) and I'm a huge fan of pure direct audio.

The point of Audyssey is that your statement is inherently contradictory in a sense -- if you admit that your room has terrible acoustics, how could the sound the speakers/room produce be "pure" if it ISN'T eq'd to compensate for those terrible acoustics? I understand there is a lot of stigma from the analog world about introducing too much "processing" or EQ into the signal chain, but these modern DSP's are really powerful and impressively transparent.

Now, of course, all that being said, the only thing that matters is that you are happy with the sound. There is certainly no shame in not liking Audyssey's results. But I encourage you to experiment, for example trying to relocate the sub and then re-running Audyssey to see if you can find a location that minimizes some of those nasty modes and allow MultEQ to create a cleaner, flatter response.

And also, note that "Audyssey" is really multiple layered technologies, not one lump sum. What you may really find objectionable is Dynamic EQ, which does introduce a lot of processing to the sound (as it is constantly shaping the tonal balance to maintain reference as volume drops) and turning it off (while still leaving MultEQ, the actual EQ filters, turned on) might produce more pleasing results.


Quote:


I have little patience for audio that sounds fake or hyped up for the digital age.

The one thing I will say on this is that this is actually contrary to the goal of Audyssey (and Denon) which is faithful, accurate reproduction, not "hyped up" sound. Unlike some other brands (especially Yamaha and Sony) you don't find a lot of fancy DSP modes like "super cinema theater" or "scifi superspectacular" on Denons. It's actually, in principle at least, intended to be the opposite of "hyped up", as the goal is to solve two problems which actually get in the way of accurate sound: (1) room acoustics (which is what MultEQ is for) and (2) equal loudness curves (the loss of tonal balance as the volume drops, which is what Dyn EQ is for).
post #2974 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

When the AVR shuts down like that, it is going into Protection Mode so it doesn't get damaged. Is the red light flashing every 0.5 sec (speaker wire touching a different post or amp failure) or every 2 seconds (power supply getting too hot). If the former, check all your speaker wire connections.

Hi jdsmoothie.

Again you're correct.

I tested the AVR today with and then without any input signals and it shut down on its own in less than 15 minutes.

I installed the receiver on a rack where it was well ventilated and haven't operated it for more than 6 hours at a time.

My previous Onkyo and Rotel amps were subjected to much more abuse and are both still in working condition. The Onky with my cousin, the Rotel in my study.

Has anybody else had premature shutoff issues with the Denon AVR-2310?
post #2975 of 7033
Thanks for the information about Audyessy and not being just for 5.1 sound. That's a different opinion than three others I received, so it's nice to see diverse thought on this, meaning I won't be limited by the number of speakers.

As for fixing room acoustics with the Audyessy software, I thought about the contradiction in my statement after I typed it, but I decided to leave it. Even if the room is not acoustically perfect (I challenge those on this forum to find one in a residential building that is, unless, of course, it was designed that way), adding Audyessy to me still sounded worse (this was before installing the subwoofer).

My main complaint about the room was its overbearing bass modes and odd longitudinal shape (why 13.5' by 9.5' is a bedroom size at all is beyond me, especially since my queen bed takes up most of the 9.5', anyway; bad architecture, IMO). The odd shape would be manageable if I could place my speakers on a different wall, but this is impossible since I'd have no place for my bed. I may be an audiofreak, but I'm not about to sleep on the floor just to improve my listening experience. :-p

While it is true that Audyessy is worlds better than CinemaDSP or any of that other digital sound modulation software, I still prefer the pure direct right now. Again, as you said, just a personal preference. Tomorrow, at a reasonable hour, I will play around with Audyessy one more time, especially since I now have a subwoofer, and see if it produces something I like.

Quote:


Now, of course, all that being said, the only thing that matters is that you are happy with the sound. There is certainly no shame in not liking Audyssey's results. But I encourage you to experiment, for example trying to relocate the sub and then re-running Audyssey to see if you can find a location that minimizes some of those nasty modes and allow MultEQ to create a cleaner, flatter response.

That's why I asked. I didn't pay $800 for an amp with room acoustic correction software just to run it like a 30-year-old amp.

Also, before I get accused of being an out-of-touch dinosaur (no worries by your comments; not offended in the least), I should add that I'm only 25, and by no means opposed to digital anything. I grew up on CDs, after all, and as much as I hate the sound quality, I own an .mp3 player (for working out). I agree with you that some audiophiles take the analog thing to an obnoxious level. My big worry is not analog-versus-digital inasmuch as it is pure versus overmodulated sound.

Quote:


Unlike some other brands (especially Yamaha and Sony) you don't find a lot of fancy DSP modes like "super cinema theater" or "scifi superspectacular" on Denons.

Which is exactly why I'm loving the 2310. That's the stuff that drives me nuts. If I really want obnoxious levels of reverberation on my sound, I have a $250 digital delay device I can figure out how to run into the Denon and make my room sound like Jimi Hendrix and the Mormon Tabernacle Choir play Royal Albert Hall on acid.
post #2976 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

this particular mystery has been unraveled by FilmMixer in the 4310 thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post17890422

Unfortunately, there is no solution, the Denon simply cannot overlay GUI graphics over the x.v. Color/"Deep Color" output of the LG player, and you cannot configure the LG player to avoid this. Sorry

Ah, OK. Sad like You said, but it's not a major issue to me. Thx for the heads-up though!
post #2977 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Does this occur regardless of whether you have the LG set to bitstream or PCM?

Are there any US/CA owners that have installed the US/CA firmware update that can confirm or deny this happens to them?

Doesn't matter, same phenomena whatever the set-up is. Batpig found an answer in the 4310 thread though!

Thx anyways!
post #2978 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithOz View Post

After the firmware update, which was very simple, thanks to jd. I can't see the curent firmware version anymore, just wanted to check. I could do before the update.

Your Main Ver # should be "69" now that you've installed the update. The procedure to obtain the Main Ver # is the same as before the update as listed in both the link in my sig and the update instructions.
post #2979 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by activebass View Post

Has anybody else had premature shutoff issues with the Denon AVR-2310?

You didn't mention whether the red light was flashing every 0.5 sec or every 2 seconds? Did you check your wiring both at every speaker and at the AVR to ensure there were no loose strands touching the other wire?
post #2980 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

F4Boy --
The default setting for the i/p Scaler is Analog ... change it to Analog and HDMI.


You're awesome Smoothie!!

Working great now! Watched SWAT last night with uncompressed PCM 5.1. The Denon showed "Multi CH IN" which looks to be right for this format. I never heard a movie sound so good in my entire life. The separation between the channels was absolutely amazing. There were a lot of automatic weapons in this movie and I 'felt' tiny bursts of bass on my lower legs. I've never felt anything like that. It was just fantastic. And the dialogue coming out of the center was as clear as I've ever heard it.

Anyways, like many here, I'm loving this receiver.
post #2981 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Just to be clear here, since you two are referring to two different things when you are quoting dB numbers:

F4boy, you are referring to the volume of the CONTENT when you mention e.g. 100dB peaks...

when JD says "0db will be 75dB for each speaker" he is referring to the TEST TONE, which is a -30dBFS tone (30 decibels below full scale, where full scale is actually 105dB for each speaker). So if you set the volume at "0" and played the test tones, post Audyssey, the tones will play at 75dB.

actual CONTENT, however, will vary of course. The point of calibrating the volume dial is that you know precisely how far away from film "reference" volume so Dyn EQ can compensate properly. In a full scale movie setting (volume at 0) you can have peaks up to 105dB in each channel (115dB in the LFE)... if the volume is at -15, you know you should get peaks up to 90dB in each channel (100dB in LFE).

And none of this applies to content which is not mixed to a reference, especially music and video games. This is the reason for the Dynamic EQ Reference Level Offset parameter (found under Audyssey settings) which allows you to tone down the effect of Dyn EQ for sources which are not mixed to film reference SPL. If you find you are getting bloated/boomy bass, overpowering surrounds, etc. when playing video games or listening to music, tone down the Offset value to 10 or 15dB.

Hey Batpig, Thanks so much for the detailed info. It cleared it up for me, as I was a bit confused. 75 db at 0.0 sounded way to low, especially since I was getting about 95db at -8.0. Since that's the test tone, it makes much better sense to me. Appreciate it, and all the information you have in this thread and your site.
post #2982 of 7033
Hi all, I am interested in buying the AVR2310. Should I wait for a few more days/weeks for prices to come down, or is now a good time?

Thanks,
Mathru
post #2983 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlamKeys View Post

I've been emailing Denon support because I have the speaker popping noise when my 2310 switches to my bluray player HDMI input.

After a few replies they have concluded I need to install the firmware update. Does anyone know whether the new update is supposed to address this problem?

The Denon CSR (Ean) indicated the update he referred to in his email to you is different from the current "LG/Samsung bitstream" firmware update. When DenonJeff returns from CES, I'll check to see if Denon has bundled this fix with the "bitstream" update and perhaps has an updated file he can send me so you don't have to send it in to a Repair Facility.
post #2984 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathruj View Post

Hi all, I am interested in buying the AVR2310. Should I wait for a few more days/weeks for prices to come down, or is now a good time?

Thanks,
Mathru

Prices will eventually always go down. If you want it now, buy it now. Otherwise, if you want to wait another 4 months you can see what additional (if any) upgrades the 2011 HDMI 1.4 models provide.
post #2985 of 7033
I went with the cheap approach for the Ipod connection to the 2310, audio cables to the front audio jacks. Everything works fine, except I can't figure a way to get sound to my Zone 2 speakers in another room. Zone 2 works fine with DVD's, TV, CD...but not with the IPod, any thoughts/hints. Thanks
post #2986 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Prices will eventually always go down. If you want it now, buy it now. Otherwise, if you want to wait another 4 months you can see what additional (if any) upgrades the 2011 HDMI 1.4 models provide.

Thanks jdsmoothie. I have been reading other threads in the forum. It looks like it might be wise to consider 1610 or 1910 if that is sufficient. I have bought PolkAudio CS2, Monitor 70s, Monitor 40s and PSW505 for Sub. My TV is Panasonic Plasma 50". I do not listen at high volumes. I listen to music & watch movies (blu ray). No PS3 or XBox involved.

Can the 1610 drive these speakers with sufficient head room? Some of the speakers are rated high, for instance: Monitor 70's recommended amplifier specification is 20-275 w/ channel, Monitor 40 is 20-125 w /channel.

If I dont have the need to play at large volumes (say definitely not at reference levels, from reading through the forums, it looks like reference level is high volume), will I be sacrificing sound quality? I am sure the 2310 might have some better sound, being the higher model, what I am asking is, if the sound quality will be substantially better in the 2310, for instance going from 70% to 95% as opposed to 90% to 95%? I have never used more than TV speakers in the past, so I am not an expert here.
post #2987 of 7033
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathruj View Post

Thanks jdsmoothie. I have been reading other threads in the forum. It looks like it might be wise to consider 1610 or 1910 if that is sufficient. I have bought PolkAudio CS2, Monitor 70s, Monitor 40s and PSW505 for Sub. My TV is Panasonic Plasma 50". I do not listen at high volumes. I listen to music & watch movies (blu ray). No PS3 or XBox involved.

Can the 1610 drive these speakers with sufficient head room? Some of the speakers are rated high, for instance: Monitor 70's recommended amplifier specification is 20-275 w/ channel, Monitor 40 is 20-125 w /channel.

If I dont have the need to play at large volumes (say definitely not at reference levels, from reading through the forums, it looks like reference level is high volume), will I be sacrificing sound quality?

No, sound quality should be almost identical for 1610, 1910, 2310 with entry-level speakers at moderate volumes. Your speakers are very easy to drive and it takes almost no power to produce moderate volumes.

Your Polk Monitor 70's, for example, are 8ohms (easy load) and 90dB sensitive. That means it takes ONE WATT to produce 90dB at 1m distance from the speaker!! At moderate volumes, even with all channels driven you are likely only using about 5-10 watts/ch max.

If you don't need the extra features (GUI, 5 HDMI inputs, etc) of the 2310 I would suggest saving money and getting the 1610 or 1910.
post #2988 of 7033
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barfly711 View Post

Greetings,

I have a Motorola DCX3400 connected via HDMI to my AVR-2310CI. How can I be sure that that my DCX3400 is passing the the signal straight to the 2310CI without any processing?

open the 2310 GUI, go to INFORMATION and then HDMI INFORMATION.

It will report the input and output resolution of the signal. Change to an SD channel -- it should report 480i as the input signal. Change to an HD station in 720p (like ESPN) and it should report 720p input... change to an HD station in 1080i (most channels) and it should say 1080i.
post #2989 of 7033
It seems we have our first bit of information that the 2310 and lower models will be replaced with new 2011 models.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M Code View Post

Denon is showing their new AVRs by invitation only @ the Venetian Hotel. I saw 5 new AVRs replacing their lower half AVR lineup from the 2310 and down. Delivery is May/July-2010.
post #2990 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

It seems we have our first bit of information that the 2310 and lower models will be replaced with new 2011 models.

Any ideas on what will change on the 2011 models?
post #2991 of 7033
Not as yet ... although MCode said he would post an update with more information soon. Other details most likely out by the end of the month if not sooner.
post #2992 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

No, sound quality should be almost identical for 1610, 1910, 2310 with entry-level speakers at moderate volumes. Your speakers are very easy to drive and it takes almost no power to produce moderate volumes.

Your Polk Monitor 70's, for example, are 8ohms (easy load) and 90dB sensitive. That means it takes ONE WATT to produce 90dB at 1m distance from the speaker!! At moderate volumes, even with all channels driven you are likely only using about 5-10 watts/ch max.

If you don't need the extra features (GUI, 5 HDMI inputs, etc) of the 2310 I would suggest saving money and getting the 1610 or 1910.


Thansk batpig!! and another question: How does the Denon 1610 compare to the Onkyo HT-RC160? Which one would you recommend?
post #2993 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Striper View Post

I went with the cheap approach for the Ipod connection to the 2310, audio cables to the front audio jacks. Everything works fine, except I can't figure a way to get sound to my Zone 2 speakers in another room. Zone 2 works fine with DVD's, TV, CD...but not with the IPod, any thoughts/hints. Thanks

Try setting the INPUT MODE for V. AUX to ANALOG.
post #2994 of 7033
I am going through the manual and just have some questions. I think googling has answered some but just wanted to post here anyways to make sure.

LPF for LFE: This setting would correspond to my subwoofer (PB12-NSD) and therefore be 200Hz, correct? Or is this referring to the crossover freq which is 120Hz on the subwoofer?

Crossover Freq: First, is this something that is automatically determined or set by MultEQ? Second, should this be manually changed for my speaker setup even though the manual suggests to leave it at 80Hz for small speakers? A couple guides I have read suggested 10 over the lowest frequency of my speakers. So my front L/R are 60+10 which there isn't a setting for anyways so I can either round up or down. Every other speaker is pretty much 68+10 so 80 would be key anyways.

Along the same line, any suggestions on what crossover freq and gain to set the subwoofer at or is it based on room size/dimensions and or speaker size?
post #2995 of 7033
The LPF for LFE should be set to 120hz. The individual speaker crossover frequencies are set by the 2310 after running AUTO SETUP, although can be raised (Manual Setup section) if they sound better raised a bit. A good rule of thumb is to raise all crossovers set below 80hz to 80hz.

Prior to running AUTO SETUP read the Audyssey Setup Guide on proper sub settings.
post #2996 of 7033
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyrophoric View Post

I am going through the manual and just have some questions. I think googling has answered some but just wanted to post here anyways to make sure.

LPF for LFE: This setting would correspond to my subwoofer (PB12-NSD) and therefore be 200Hz, correct? Or is this referring to the crossover freq which is 120Hz on the subwoofer?

Crossover Freq: First, is this something that is automatically determined or set by MultEQ? Second, should this be manually changed for my speaker setup even though the manual suggests to leave it at 80Hz for small speakers? A couple guides I have read suggested 10 over the lowest frequency of my speakers. So my front L/R are 60+10 which there isn't a setting for anyways so I can either round up or down. Every other speaker is pretty much 68+10 so 80 would be key anyways.

Along the same line, any suggestions on what crossover freq and gain to set the subwoofer at or is it based on room size/dimensions and or speaker size?

all of your questions are addressed in the Audyssey section of my FAQ:
http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey

there are links there to the Audyssey Setup Guide as well.
post #2997 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The Denon CSR (Ean) indicated the update he referred to in his email to you is different from the current "LG/Samsung bitstream" firmware update. When DenonJeff returns from CES, I'll check to see if Denon has bundled this fix with the "bitstream" update and perhaps has an updated file he can send me so you don't have to send it in to a Repair Facility.

Thanks - I'll hold off until we hear something.
post #2998 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

can you explain what you are trying to accomplish by turning off the center channel? If we know your goals it may be easier to suggest a solution.

it has nothing to do with price, pretty much every AVR I know of has a max +/- trim limit....all Denon AVR's max out at +/-12dB for each channel, I think Onkyos are the same.

But, anway, I don't understand why sitting there tapping a channel volume button is any easier of a solution than simply going into the speaker config menu and setting center channel to OFF... what are you trying to accomplish exactly?

My understanding is that setting center channel to OFF re-routes the center channel sound to the L/R front speakers. Isn't that the case?

As I've explained before, for sports on a true DD 5.1 track, the commentary comes out of center channel only. I want (and have done with cheap systems, and do on our living room HTiB set up) to have more of an in-game experience, i.e. no commentary, but everything else jacked up. I want this on the AVR 890, which I use in my dedicated HT.

If you are telling me that I set the center channel OFF and it will NOT re-route the center channel sound to other speakers, I'll be happy and it's the end of the discussion. If not I am still puzzled and frustrated because all I want is to be able to watch sports that use a true DD 5.1 mix without the commentary.
post #2999 of 7033
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

all of your questions are addressed in the Audyssey section of my FAQ:
http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey

there are links there to the Audyssey Setup Guide as well.

Ok, I found the answers to my questions. So basically, set/leave the LPF for LFE setting to 120 and Audyssey will auto set the crossover.

I will take my subwoofer specific questions to the subwoofer forum.

Thanks


Err, another question which I am not seeing in your guide...

Which is better, crossover on and max or off for the subwoofer with audyssey multeq? The manual suggests max with some other sources on the net suggest it being off.
post #3000 of 7033
Thread Starter 
your subwoofer questions are also answered no need to go elsewhere!

all of the "bass management" is handled by the receiver, so you want to get the subwoofer's control out of the way. the instructions for doing this are described both in my FAQ and the setup guide -- basically disable (or max out) the crossover, set phase to 0, and set volume such that the auto setup returns a volume reading within the min/max range of +/-12dB.

Quote:


Err, another question which I am not seeing in your guide...

Which is better, crossover on and max or off for the subwoofer with audyssey multeq? The manual suggests max with some other sources on the net suggest it being off.

answered above, and addressed in the Audyssey Setup Guide. You want to get the subwoofer controls out of the way, so everything can be managed digitally in the AVR.
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