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*OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 2310CI / 890 Owner's Thread - Page 222

post #6631 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
All signs point to a defective C750.

Well, you'd think that, but here's the twist. This morning, I fired up the LN46C750 with my satellite receiver connected to HDMI 1, and received the "no signal" message. Then I took down my 22" B series Samsung from the kitchen and fed the satellite receiver to its HDMI input and all worked as expected. I tried the 2310CI's output on the 22" as well and all worked as expected. When I reconnected the AVR to the LN46C750 HDMI input 1, it came right up as though nothing had ever happened.
It's starting to seem like some insidious handshake/hdcp thing, but I can't figure out what sets it off or if it is just an issue with the Samsung.
post #6632 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtiner View Post

I tested again by connecting three different components directly to the Samsung with three different cables. When a device is connected to, say, HDMI input 2, then that input will appear in the source list like it's a valid source, but when selected does not work and I receive the "no signal" message. When no cable is connected to a particular HDMI port, that source is "greyed out", and a "check cable" message is displayed.
Can anyone offer any insight into what's happening? Am I really just unlucky and have another bad main board or is there some weird HDCP/handshake thing going on with my AVR and other components? One more thing to mention is that I had the same AVR and gear connected to a very similar LN46C650 for over a year without issues before I switched to the C750.

Hi jtiner, appears to be a HDCP/handshake issue. Is this happen with the Roku as well and are the three different cables the same brand name? If so try a different brand name HDMI cables. Also try power on devices in a certain order like: tv, receiver and satellite box (giving a few second in between).
post #6633 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi jtiner, appears to be a HDCP/handshake issue. Is this happen with the Roku as well and are the three different cables the same brand name? If so try a different brand name HDMI cables. Also try power on devices in a certain order like: tv, receiver and satellite box (giving a few second in between).

My tests have been with the Roku/sat/AVR seperately and with all of them simultaneously. The Roku fails too, and yes, I'm using different cables. One is a Cables To Go "high speed" cable (so 1.3a compliant, at least), one is not branded but is marked as "high speed", and the third was just a generic cable I had in the cellar so I gave it a try as well.
I have tried powering on with TV first, then device first, same results. The setup was never finicky and never bothered with my C650 television, and worked as expected for about 3 months when I got the replacement C750 television.
post #6634 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtiner View Post

Well, you'd think that, but here's the twist. This morning, I fired up the LN46C750 with my satellite receiver connected to HDMI 1, and received the "no signal" message. Then I took down my 22" B series Samsung from the kitchen and fed the satellite receiver to its HDMI input and all worked as expected. I tried the 2310CI's output on the 22" as well and all worked as expected. When I reconnected the AVR to the LN46C750 HDMI input 1, it came right up as though nothing had ever happened.It's starting to seem like some insidious handshake/hdcp thing, but I can't figure out what sets it off or if it is just an issue with the Samsung.

Could be the EDID from the 22" is now in memory and is allowing the signal to pass through. Try resetting the AVR's microprocessor (p. 70) and see if the issue returns. If yes, it's the C750.
post #6635 of 7166
Hi again, I bought a Mini DP to HDMI cable instead of the adapter I was using before, and now I can't select 1080p video on my Mac. 1080i works fine, and then appears on the LCD of my TV. But when I select 1080p on my Mac, my TV just displays a black screen that says "DENON".

I have the right input assigned in the menu. What can I do to fix this? Everything works fine when I switch the cable to my old cable/adapter solution...
post #6636 of 7166
OK guys..I'm over here now too, since I just bought one of these off ebay for my sister, and I have some quick ???'s...

What FW should it have and what cable do I need to buy to update it if needed?

Any issues with this or has it been pretty solid?

That's about it, seems nice, 3D isn't desired and got it for cheap. Win win...
post #6637 of 7166
It seems no matter what I do, the protection circuit on my 2310CI keeps tripping.

First I replaced my Samsung DVD with a Denon.
Then I ditched my old Rogers Studio 1 speakers for Mirage OMD-15.

Nevertheless, when the sound on something like Lord of the Rings or Star Wars or TRON is at a mere -17db on transient moments....POP!

I've checked for loose wires, potential short circuits, etc to no avail.

It doesn't seem like I should have to upgrade my 2310 also! What the heck is going on? Pulling my hair out!!!!

Help much appreciated!
post #6638 of 7166
^^
Check for loose speaker wire again ... pull the AVR out of the cabinet/rack if need be ... as this is the most common reason for the AVR to shut down.
post #6639 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

OK guys..I'm over here now too, since I just bought one of these off ebay for my sister, and I have some quick ???'s...

What FW should it have and what cable do I need to buy to update it if needed?

Any issues with this or has it been pretty solid?

That's about it, seems nice, 3D isn't desired and got it for cheap. Win win...

Firmware update info ....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post17512496
post #6640 of 7166
post #6641 of 7166
Thread Starter 
FYI - the "lower level" xx10 models have been rock solid. The only real bug was an HD audio thing with certain Blu-ray players, but that was resolved a while back.

I actually own a 2310ci and it's been a champ for a while now, no issues at all.

Obv the networking xx10 models (3310, 4310, 4810) had their network card issues as you know about... but that's irrelevant to the 2310 or lower.
post #6642 of 7166
Any ideas of why this new hdmi/mini DP adapter isn't working properly?
post #6643 of 7166
Thread Starter 
sorry, HDMI is stupid. If the old adapter worked fine why did you switch?
post #6644 of 7166
^^
Does it work when connected directly to the TV? If you're seated >8' from the display, you're unlikely to tell the difference between 1080p and 1080i, or even 720p for that matter.
post #6645 of 7166
The cable was longer and I thought that may be the reason I wasn't getting AAC DTS audio from ripped blurays? The receiver doesn't pull up the surround mode, it just lets me select DTS:Neo 6 or DPLII when the input source file is a DTS 5.1 sound track. I ripped it with DTS passthru. Sigh.
post #6646 of 7166
Thread Starter 
If you aren't getting the right audio signal then it's not the cable, it's a setting on the SOURCE. Check your audio settings in the PC.
post #6647 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Check for loose speaker wire again ... pull the AVR out of the cabinet/rack if need be ... as this is the most common reason for the AVR to shut down.

Will do. Also -- some of the wires use banana plugs and some of them just have the end trimmed off and the copper wires placed inside the screw post. Could that be where the problem lies?
post #6648 of 7166
^^
Only if a wire from one post is touching another post.
post #6649 of 7166
Having a little problem with my 2310. I have had this unit running now for over 1.5 years, nothing has changed. I had a little time today where everyone left the house so I was able to do the Microphone setup. I have run this setup numerous times before with no issues... now that I have one, I'm stumped.

1st test - I get left front speaker out of phase. I changed the red/black wires around.
2nd test - I get right front speaker out of phase. Put back the original wires to the left speaker.
3rd test - Everything the way it was originally, BOTH front speakers out of phase
4th test - (no change) front left speaker out of phase

what's going on here? Any Ideas? After the 1st test I just skipped it and ran the whole setup all the way through. I didn't finish the setups from 2-4 tests. I ran a couple BR with Master HD and it sounds great...so dont know the issues with the setup.

Also noticed the sub says distance 23.5 ft...when it is only 11 ft. It set the sub at 12. All other distances are correct. Previous tests always got it really close to 11ft.

Any help? Not so sure if this is an Auddyssey issue, reciever issue, or microphone issue.
post #6650 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Only if a wire from one post is touching another post.

So I put banana plugs on everything, and I've tracked the problem to the rear center speaker -- and I assume therefore the problem must be 1 of these:

1) The connection at the receiver

I assume i can eliminate or confirm this as the problem source by hooking the L or R surround into this port and seeing if the problem recurs (surround and rear speaker are the same model)

2) Something along the speaker wire

I noticed that while stapling the wire to a wall, one of the staples partially penetrated the plastic shielding. If it went all the way through and hit the speaker wire itself, would this cause the protection circuit to trip?

3) The connection at the speaker

Determined doing the reverse of#1 above, yes?

4) The setting for the rear speaker on the receiver

I believe this is supposed to be in the L output with the setting to "Skr1", yes?

MANY thanks!!!!
post #6651 of 7166
^^^

yes, number 2 could definitely cause a short and put you into protection... fix that...
post #6652 of 7166
^^
1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Yes

Although as Chris notes, more likely #2 is your culprit.
post #6653 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Firmware update info ....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post17512496

There is no 'dimmer' & 'status' buttons on the 2310 front panel to check for FW version. Do you know how to get it?

BTW...Just got this delivered today and so far I am pleased as punch. Looks to be brandnew/open box/refurb'd condition. No dust or finger prints but clearly repackaged. The Audyssey mic has never been used so I don't think it has ever been setup. Powers up fine, reset the memory to defaults no issues. Hope to setup at my sisters in a day or two. Very pleased. Nice AVR.
post #6654 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

There is no 'dimmer' & 'status' buttons on the 2310 front panel to check for FW version. Do you know how to get it?

Hi Splicer010, its hidden

Look at the right lower corner of display, its the last two buttons (its below the nice blue "HD Audio" indicator).
post #6655 of 7166
I completely FORGOT about the black row of buttons! When I read "under the display panel" I took it as 'under' the display. the obvious buttons. Thanks brother. It appears this has the latest & greatest FW installed already.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi Splicer010, its hidden

Look at the right lower corner of display, its the last two buttons (its below the nice blue "HD Audio" indicator).
post #6656 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by toy4x View Post

Having a little problem with my 2310. I have had this unit running now for over 1.5 years, nothing has changed. I had a little time today where everyone left the house so I was able to do the Microphone setup. I have run this setup numerous times before with no issues... now that I have one, I'm stumped.

1st test - I get left front speaker out of phase. I changed the red/black wires around.
2nd test - I get right front speaker out of phase. Put back the original wires to the left speaker.
3rd test - Everything the way it was originally, BOTH front speakers out of phase
4th test - (no change) front left speaker out of phase

what's going on here? Any Ideas? After the 1st test I just skipped it and ran the whole setup all the way through. I didn't finish the setups from 2-4 tests. I ran a couple BR with Master HD and it sounds great...so dont know the issues with the setup.

Also noticed the sub says distance 23.5 ft...when it is only 11 ft. It set the sub at 12. All other distances are correct. Previous tests always got it really close to 11ft.

Any help? Not so sure if this is an Auddyssey issue, reciever issue, or microphone issue.

Answered in the Audyssey thread.
post #6657 of 7166
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Yes

Although as Chris notes, more likely #2 is your culprit.

And so it was. Staples removed, everything's fine.

THANK YOU!!!!
post #6658 of 7166
New to this thread...been reading posts for three days. My issue is the oft-mentioned audio dropout problem. Been intermittent since I got the AVR in Nov. 2010 and only involving the satellite audio. In last two weeks it has become total w/ loss of all audio from all inputs into main amp...Zone 2 still works. Front display indicates correct input from sources AND correct output to speakers....just no sound??? As soon as I get a day off, I'm going to blow out the headphone jack, check my speaker wire connections, reset the microprocessor, check my firmware version and if necessary request the firmware upgrade from jd. Will also try the HDMI reset procedure and try moving my TV HDMI cable to HDMI 1 or 2 instead of HDMI 3. IF none of this resolves my problems...then I will try routing my audio thru TOSLINK from sat box to AVR. One problem....there is only one HDMI cable from my TV thru several feet of attic and wall to the AVR. If I use a TOSLINK cable to carry the audio from sat box to the AVR and hook the HDMI cable directly between TV and sat box. then I have no way to input my BDP signals to TV. I see in BP's manual setup guide where it is possible to split off the audio signal from any HDMI inputs and just send the video signals from the AVR to the TV. Does anyone know whether doing that will reduce audio HDMI handshake issues..or do I have to get in the attic and run add'l cables. Sorry if this rambles....
post #6659 of 7166
^^
Although bypassing HDMI to the AVR will resolve HDMI handshake audio issues, loss of all audio in the main zone only is usually the result of dust in the headphone jack so blowing compressed air into it should resolve your issue.
post #6660 of 7166
My Denon avr-890 not recognizing my speakers. I have no idea what went wrong. I tried to reset and check all my cables still I don't here any sound from it. I hooked up PS3 to my receiver and I have 5.1 Energy speakers. Only thing I noticed, Audyssey light is not on! Can someone help me out please.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › *OFFICIAL* Denon AVR 2310CI / 890 Owner's Thread