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Adapting the Pioneer 6020 stand for use with the KRP-600M (A Guide with Pics)

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
The Pioneer table top stand for the 600M can be hard to come by for a reasonable price (around $400 from Pioneer). The 151 stand reportedly works, but can also be hard to come by. That’s how I found myself with a 6020 stand and this project. The 6020 stand fits the hole pattern of the 600M perfectly, but sits too high since it was designed to allow for the under mounted speaker of the 6020. My first thought was that I could just order the feet or pipe assemblies from Pioneer, but they turned out to cost $109 shipped—too much to really appreciate the savings of my brand new $75 6020 stand off ebay. So, I decided to modify the 6020 stand to the specs of the 600M stand. Aside from height, the two stands appear to be identical. So, the 6020 just needs to be shortened by the height of the speaker (3.375”).

Here’s the 6020 stand mated to a 600M. Note the undesired "chicken leg" effect (picture courtesy of member irfan):



And here’s what I did to remedy this problem:

Note: This is only for those “like to have a project” kind of guys. Also, be sure that you use common sense and safety, and lastly, I take no responsibility for your actions—take your time and be careful.

Step 1: Remove the pipe assemblies from the plastic base by removing the four screws on the bottom of the stand. This frees them up and allows them to be easily removed.

Step 2: Remove the screws from the sides of the pipe assemblies. Each of the assemblies has four screws on their sides that help secure the uprights to the lower base portion.



Step 3: Separate the “legs” from the base or foot of each pipe assembly. This is by far the most difficult part of the project—they are not only screwed together, but also welded. I used a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to break the majority of the welds. Then for the last part (in the bottom corners where a wheel can’t reach) I used a drill (be careful not to break the bit here). Once the welds are almost completely broken free, you can just stand on the base of the assembly and pry back and forth on the upright to complete the final separation.

Here they are separated:


Step 4: Clean up the welds on the inside of the base so that they will be ready to accept the new legs once they are cut. This can be done with the dremel as well.



Step 5: Cut the legs to the proper length. Measure 3.375” up from the bottom of the feet and mark them for the cut. Next, you will need to either use a dremel (hard work) or a miter saw with a large metal cutting wheel (the wheels are only around $5 if you don’t have one) to make the cuts. The miter saw will ensure that you get nice square cuts, so this is the best method to use and it’s what I chose to do.

Measure twice cut once!! I used a pair of digital calipers to measure and slightly engrave the line for the cut:


After the first cut:


And the second cut:


Step 6: Clean up the cuts with either a file or your dremel so that they will be ready to re-mate with their bases.


Step 7: Place the legs back into their respective bases making sure that you get a “snug” fit so that they will remain in the position that you place them. If the fit is a bit loose, you can use a set of channel locks or pliers to squeeze the outside edges of the base and tighten the fit.

Step 8: Square the legs up to the base and be sure that the holes in the sides of each base are on center with the legs. Now is a good time to drop the pipe assemblies back into the plastic base of the stand to be sure that your final product will have no issues when it come to the final assembly.



Step 9: Drill the new holes in the legs. Since you have cut off the bottom of the legs where the screw holes used to be, you need to drill new ones. Secure your assemblies to a drill press, making sure that you maintain square and get the drill bit lined up with the center of the first hole on the side of the base. Once you have everything lined up, use a 5/32 drill bit and drill through the side of the leg. Do this for each of the eight holes. (Hint: After the first hole is drilled on one side, put a screw in place to help keep things aligned for the next hole.)



Step 10: Screw the legs back into the base. Before you fully tighten the screws, check for square one last time. With the screws loosely in place, there will be some room for adjustment between the legs and base, allowing you to get them perfectly square.



Step 11: Weld the legs to the base. To be sure that you have the very same level of stability, you need to weld the legs in addition to screwing them back together. This can generally be done for a nominal fee by a local shop. I chose not to weld them since the legs were very secure once the screws were replaced, and I have had absolutely no issues at all. You’ll have to make your own decision regarding this step.

Step 12: Reassemble the pipe assemblies and stand. If you’ve come this far, you don’t need any explanation here.

Modified stand:


And for comparison, the factory 600M stand:



Step 13: Place your 600M onto the stand and enjoy your hard work!
post #2 of 10
Awesome thread. Thank you for your work.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
No prob...I had fun with the project, and I'm sure there are others that might find themselves in a similar situation to mine.
post #4 of 10
Nice work there, official stand supplier all orders pm chargedmr2 for more info. j/k Thanks
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjrgamer View Post

Nice work there, official stand supplier all orders pm chargedmr2 for more info. j/k Thanks

LOL...unless I get a second 600M, once though was enough for me.
post #6 of 10
chargedmr2 - Very cool DIY. Thanks for sharing.

BTW, do you know if the 6020 bottom mounted speakers fit the 600M? When I was considering buying speakers for my 600M, I was thinking of buying the bottom mounted ones vs. the side mounted Elite speakers because I don't like how the Elite speakers protrudes out the sides further.

Maybe if the 6020 bottom mounted speakers fit, I could just use the 6020 stand w/o modification.
post #7 of 10
Excellent step by step instructions and the pictures are great as well. I too purchased a 6020 stand to save hundreds, but have not yet performed this mod. I plan on mounting it to the wall so I may not mess with it, but nevertheless this is a great thread and I appreciate all your effort in documenting this for us.

GlenH,

To answer your question, no you cannot mount the 6020 speaker to the 600M without some sort of modifications. Perhaps you can find a way to just sort of keep it up there and just don't touch it. You should still be able to use the speaker with the TV, just can't really mount it very easily. Hope you find a way or another alternative. I personally like the elite speakers and dig the new extended look of my 600M using some 151 speakers.
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenH View Post

chargedmr2 - Very cool DIY. Thanks for sharing.

BTW, do you know if the 6020 bottom mounted speakers fit the 600M? When I was considering buying speakers for my 600M, I was thinking of buying the bottom mounted ones vs. the side mounted Elite speakers because I don't like how the Elite speakers protrudes out the sides further.

Maybe if the 6020 bottom mounted speakers fit, I could just use the 6020 stand w/o modification.

I haven't tried this but I think Nate is correct--I don't think the 6020 speaker mounts work on the 600M.

I couldn't fit side mounted speakers in our media center, so I hooked up a set of Orb Audio speakers directly to the TV. You can see them to the left and right of the Blu-ray player in that last photo.
post #9 of 10
Thanks NateTTU and chargedmr2. I think I'll just go with wall mounting and my 5.1 surround system for now - maybe eventually pick up a pair of 151 speakers in the future.
post #10 of 10
Sorry to bump up an old thread, but just wanted to thank you for the tutorial.

Those bottom welds are a B!TCH! - but it all ended up well thanks to your notes.

Also, I did NOT have them welded either - those welds seemed like overkill.
And the 6020 seems more stable after lowering the center of gravity.
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