** OFFICIAL ** Denon AVR-3310CI/990 Owner's Thread - Page 53

even if he isn't using the internal cable tuner, the VT20 is network enabled so he probably needs to pipe out audio from "VieraCast" internet services like Netflix or Youtube...

Help

My 990 isn't displaying video from my component inputs. Both DVD and TIVO HD are hooked up via component. AVR is going into TV via HDMI. Audio from both sources (via optical) plays, but the TV only displays the Denon logo. HDMI sources are working fine, as is S-Video on my VCR, so I know the upconverting is on and working. I've tried to tweak every setting and I can't get a video signal. It was working fine as of last night, so I'm at a loss as to what might have changed... Cleaning ladies came by and could have bumped something, but the connections look solid.

I have to be overlooking something. Any ideas?

If you've checked all source settings as being correct and have reseated all cables, and still no joy ... reset the microprocessor (p. 99) and start over.

Thanks, I'm holding off on that as a last resort. I've only had the receiver setup for 3 days. It might be psychological, but I sure would love to learn that this is just a setting that's askew rather than it being inherently glitch. I'd hate to think that it needs to be reset after that little time (Especially if it means I need to rerun Audyssey)

Thank you both JChin & jdsmoothie. Sort of worked following both of your suggestions. Now it works only if I first (i) turn the Denon to select the PS3 device and (ii) then turn on the PS3. If I have the PS3 on when I either turn on the Denon or change the video source to the PS3, I get "not supported" from the Epson projector.

So I just reset the microprocessor and other than losing all of my settings, it didn't fix a thing. Still no video from inputs using component.

I'm at a loss... (and about to throw this darn thing through a window.)

component video should just... work... as long as Video Conversion is ON and there is no HDMI input assigned to the same "name" which could be overriding the component video. Verify in the Input Assign matrix that nothing else is assigned to the name you are trying to use (besides of course the component video, i.e. RCA-1/2).

as a troubleshooting step, have you tried connecting a component video cable from the AVR to the TV? To at least verify that your input assignment is correct and the component video section is actually working?

In order for the HDMI handshake to work correctly with some TVs/projectors, the order to turn everything on that usually works the best is TV/projector-->AVR-->Video source (eg. PS3). With a programmable remote (eg. Harmony) this sequence can be much more easily handled.

Although the reset can be a pain, it's benefit is that it guarantees that all settings are restored to their factory defaults (you don't have to try and figure out where the issue might be). When cables are simply plugged in to the original labels (ie component DVD, DVR) with HDMI to the TV and no HDMI sources turned ON (or better yet, not plugged in to troubleshoot), it should be simply "plug 'n play".

I forgot to ask ... did your component sources work "before" the cleaning ladies were there, or have they never worked?

Thanks folks. The microprocessor reset actually did give me the confidence that something must be broken and it can't be a setting, so I'm glad I did it.

It must have shorted out the component input board or something. The same inputs (using their default assignment locations into the original labels, e.g., DVD>DVD) worked perfectly the night before, with nothing changing. I reset the Input Assign Matrix many times just to ensure there was nothing odd going on. I also ensured video conversion is ON. The setup "just worked" when I put it together initially, so the fact that it didn't work after the processor reset tells me something is wrong.

I didn't try the component out of the AVR (I could when I get home), although I did confirm the Tivo HD is working fine by running a component cable from it to the TV, which is how I have it setup now.

I'm hoping the exchange process won't be too much of a hassle.....

Can someone tell me if setting the audio delay (to sync with video) can be done separately for each input, or is it applied to all inputs? I notice slight sync differences between Sat and BD sources.

audio delay is set per input

I tried it tonight and no dice. Something is seriously awry with my component ins/outs. Given that I can't find others with similar woes, I'm assuming/hoping it's a defective unit and the replacement will be fine.

Hey batpig... I really appreciate your contributions over the months to ensure that this thread delivers...and your website is fantastic.

Quick question. I have not hooked my 3310 to the network yet, but was interested in doing so for internet radio, etc. Is there a place that I can go to view the different firmware updates so I can decide whether or not I want to perform any of them?

Christian

I tried a search but came up empty.

Has anyone had any success controlling their receiver through the network interface using a phone? I've got an HTC Incredible (with WiFi) and would like to know if I'd be able to control the receiver with the browser from out on the deck.

I'm in the market for a receiver and this is one of the (many) questions I have while debating my choice between the 2310/11 and 3310/11. Along with just about everyone else, I'm not sure that I'll be going 3D anytime soon but want to be (relatively) future-proofed. I like the Pandora functionality of the 3311, but not necessary since I can get it through my Samsung Blu Ray. Audessy XT is also something that appeals to me but probably isn't necessary.

Hmmm, ~$500 for 2310, ~$800 for 3310, ~$1000+ for 3311 (in a couple months)? It's a dangerously slippery slope!

all the networked Denon AVR's can be controlled over the network via IP -- if your phone has a standard web browser you shouldn't have any problem, just punch in the IP address of the AVR and you get a web control interface.

There are also some custom control interfaces for iPhone, but I haven't heard of any yet for Android (although they may exist).

I actually don't have a networked model so I can't say for sure, other owners may want to chime in...

However, from what I understand you can't "pick and choose" specific firmware updates, you either choose to update to the latest firmware or you don't. There is also no "changelog" describing what they do... so you are kind of in the dark.

i`ve had mine for about 2 weeks now (upgraded from onkyo tx-sr700) i can`t seem to get audessey to work with 6.1 seems to look for 2nd rear sur...
just bypassed for now and running 5.1. >>>the step up from dolby digital to dolby true hd has been better than expected(ps3 fat for gaming/bluray).even digital feed from bell express vu hd sat box has been a big improvement(maybe the denon or hdmi vs optical connection or audessey)...so the 1st week listening to cd`s ( 2.1 ) i found the bass was a lil` much with audessey(both reg and flat) the 2nd week my ears are adjusting and i am finding with audessey on bypass L/R only(2.1 )the bass is much more natural and not as inflated with audessey on..but i still find it a lil` much,keep in mind i had my onkyo for 6+++ yrs and onkyo`s are known to be on the bright side and i`m still playing with settings and maybe just maybe my ears r still adjusting(only about 15 hrs of cd listening so far(2.1)....so my questions are ,what r your 2.1 settings for music?does anybody know if i can run audessey with 6.1? what is the best way to run audessey with 2 subs?
i ran audessey twice with virtually same result.
my room is not a dedicated hometheatre room it also has a bar and pooltable in 1 half , the room is 22`by 30`( hometheatre side is 22`by 14`)
audessey settings after auto setup
front l/r - 5db x @40 hz (changed to 80)>axiom m80`s
centre - 5db x @110 hz> axiom vp 150
sur left - 2db x @120 hz >axiom qs 8
surr right -5.5 db x @ 120 hz > axiom qs 8
sub woofer -4.5 db1st sub > velodyne dslr 5000 (15 inch)
2nd sub >d-box david 303 (12 inch)
all speakers set to small
sw mode lfe
x @ 80 hz
lpf for lfe 120 hz
ref offset for 2 channel @ 15 db(max)
thanks in advance....

did you plug the SB speaker into the LEFT surr.back speaker jack?


ideally, you should level match the subs manually first, have them as equidistant from the main listening position as possible (time alignment), and then just run Audyssey and go with it. It will EQ the subs' summed frequency response.

Hi. It's been a nice headache free 9 months with the 3310. It's done all I've asked with minimal involvement tweaking or tuning. So naturally..... it's time to start fiddling I guess.

I have a question about inputs to be played in Zones 2 and 3. I'm aware I can't play back an HDMI input in these zones. For instance, my HDMI connected BDP for Zone 1 is not enabled to play audio in Zones 2 or 3.

I've also read this can be resolved by connecting the BDP to the AVR via analog. So far so good.

So, using a BDP as an example, could someone please confirm I have the setup procedure correct? In order to use HDMI in Zone 1 and listen in Zones 2 and 3:

- I would have 2 connections out of the BDP. HDMI for Zone 1 and Coax for Zones 2 & 3.
- Assume I physically connect the BDP to the AVR using HDMI1 and Coax 1.
- Go to the Input Setup menu in the AVR.
- Leave my existing BDP setup for Zone 1 unchanged: DVD/HDMI1
- Assign a second device name for Zone 2 & 3. Assume: V. Aux/Coax 1
- Go to source select for Zone 1 and select DVD.
- Go to source select for Zones 2 & 3 and select V Aux.

Is that it? Seems to me if I do this I should be able to simultaneously watch/listen in Zone1 via HDMI and listen in Zones 2 & 3 via coax.

Thanks in advance for any comments and feedback. I've searched the threads but didn't notice a step by step or specific confirmation about simultaneous playback using both HDMI and Coax.

it's easier if you use an analog cable as the "redundant" connection and not a digital cable, then you don't need to assign anything (just make sure the "name" of the RCA input that you plug into matches what you are using for the input) and you are guaranteed a "compatible" signal (since you can only take 2.0 PCM to Zone 2 if it's digital).

You don't actually want to assign a different name -- the idea is that, whether you select your "BDP" source in Zone 1, 2, or 3, it will play the BDP!

So, for example, if you have your BDP using the "DVD" name, just run standard RCA interconnects (red/white analog) to the "DVD" inputs and you will have a redundant analog audio feed that is matched up to the digital feed for Zone 1. Then, regardless of which zone you select the "BDP" input, you will get audio...

Have you read this? http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#multizone

Thank you Batpig. Makes complete sense to me now why I wouldn't want to do the renaming.

Also, no, I had not read the link you provided. Is this still correct for the 4310/3310?


Hmmm..... So that's what the manual meant when it says


Silly me. I assumed it was "in addition to" instead of "either or". Guess this could be a little more expensive than I thought......

yes, if you are running 7.1 in Main Zone then you are required to add extra amps for the other zones. The 4810 has a "free assign" mode where you can repurpose unused internal amps to power Zone 2 & 3 if you'd rather add external amps for main zone.

Everything in the FAQ is still accurate, although the 3310/4310 (in addition to the 2809, 3808, etc) can do volume control over the RCA pre-outs for Zone 2/3 (unlike the lower models). These higher level models (28xx/9xx and up) with 3 zone support have a more flexible multizone system (e.g. in addition to volume control you can set tone control for Zone 2/3 speakers, change from stereo to mono, etc).

I just picked up a 990 for $699.

Care to share where you got it?

J&R through Amazon. The price is $799 now though.

How do you setup the receiver to use it's AM tuner terminal to play old fashioned AM/FM radio, which is like every receiver's basic function? What if I don't want HD or Sirius, but just want to use the included AM loop antenna for basic radio stations (105.9, 102.7, etc.)? I have the loop connected correctly, but when I try to select the tuner input on the receiver or the remote, nothing happens.

I've got my new 3310 few days ago to replace my 3806. This is a European model. I have few questions if someone can kindly reply. My system consists of a Oppo BDP-83, PS3. Front speakers Mirage M-990 (16 years old), Jamo RC2 Center, Jammo surrounds and subwoofer. Whatever bluray disc I put in oppo 3310 displays DTS Surround. Oppo reports for instance TrueHD 5.1. I was getting really nervous. Then I tested 2 BD's which came with my player. With Spears&Munsil for the first time the blue light lit and Denon displayed trueHD or Dts-MA accordingly. With AIX Records calibration disc the old problem (if that is a problem) came back. No blue light and Denon displays Dts Surround. I went into settings /input setup/ input mode/ decode mode to see only 3 options: Auto-PCM-dts. Shouldnt there be Dolby? Am I doing something wrong? Why Dolby TrueHD 5.1 in some blu-ray discs are decoded to dts surround? If someone can enlighten me I will really appreciate. Thanx.

it's the source. The Denon will play what you give it, the decode mode doesn't have anything to do with it as long as it is on "auto".

If it doesn't say "DTS-MASTER", it isn't getting it. The receiver cannot change the audio that it is getting.

Have you checked the complete audio input information in the GUI (Information > Audio Input Signal)? Sometimes the display may not be 100% descriptive. What it reports in the GUI for "audio input signal" is what it is getting. If it isn't getting what you think it should be getting, it's the source. You may want to contact Oppo (they have great support) or check in the Oppo thread, there is probably a setting that is off.

What Batpig said. Also, if you're talking about DD HD tracks, it is possible that the blu ray itself defaults to the non-HD track, and you'll need to select the right track using either the menu for the disk, or perhaps the remote for the player (I don't have the Oppo (yet) so I don'tk nlow its user interface)