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** OFFICIAL ** Denon AVR-3310CI/990 Owner's Thread - Page 112

post #3331 of 3803
Quite a few 3310 owner's have posted purchasing the card on their own and IIRC, not one had any issue with the installation. A few simply bought the card in anticipation of the OEM card's eventual failure.
post #3332 of 3803
have gotten tired of no internet radio for the last few months I gave in an bought the Dm860 SUB Assy from Herman Electronics. as they had it in stock and shipped the same day. The install took all of 2 minutes getting the cover off,old card out new one in and cover back on. after re-starting the Receiver it found a Firmware Update within 1 minute and took the next 10 updating. after which I had all connectivity Like when new.. the card that came was the new version with a MFR date of 2011.
post #3333 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by flynlr View Post

have gotten tired of no internet radio for the last few months I gave in an bought the Dm860 SUB Assy from Herman Electronics. as they had it in stock and shipped the same day. The install took all of 2 minutes getting the cover off,old card out new one in and cover back on. after re-starting the Receiver it found a Firmware Update within 1 minute and took the next 10 updating. after which I had all connectivity Like when new.. the card that came was the new version with a MFR date of 2011.

That sounds promising, now if I can find a parts supplier to ship to Canada I'll be all set to do the same.
post #3334 of 3803
Well I found a parts supplier - mcmelectronics.com - that ships to Canada (in case any other Canadians are having trouble finding a supplier) and palced my order.
post #3335 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVT View Post

Well I found a parts supplier - mcmelectronics.com - that ships to Canada (in case any other Canadians are having trouble finding a supplier) and palced my order.

Please supply part no. Or description used . Txs
post #3336 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by netorders View Post

Please supply part no. Or description used . Txs

Please see post #3340 on this page.

Here's the link to mcmelectronics.com and the part:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/8R1891001200D
post #3337 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Should be fairly easy ... there is only one screw holding down the card that needs to be removed. The new card should pop into place similar to installing a RAM card. Just make sure to discharge any static electricity from your body prior to the installation.

Review this link by another owner who describes how to replace the card.

Thanks for the tip about it being similar to a ram chip, I initially tried to slid it in and then remembered your post and clipped it in. Done in 5 mins, I ordered from mcm on Monday, arrived Friday and replaced on Saturday. Now waiting on the firmware download.
post #3338 of 3803
My NIC has been frozen since the first week I bought it in December 2009. Guess I still have time under the warranty to bring it to an authorized Denon repair shop. There is one in Baltimore about 40 miles from my house.

I tried resetting and other stuff tonight and lost all my settings (I forgot to save on the web). Now I can't get my 2-channel stereo to sound like it did. It's all muffled.

I found an explanation on this forum before about the problem and how to fix (it was easy). Yet I cant seem to come up with the info via my searches.

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? Gone thru the whole menu but just cant seem to figure it out.

STEREO ISSUE RESOLVED:

After some more fiddling, I went into MANUAL SETUP and then SPEAKER SETUP and then FRONT SPEAKER SETUP, clicked on 2CH DIRECT/STEREO and set A+B (for both front speakers).

Even though I only have one set of front speakers, they are b-amped, perhaps necessitating that I mark A+B instead of just A, as was originally the case. Once I switched to A+B from A, the speakers sounded normal again.
post #3339 of 3803
I recently upgraded the firmware over the network which seems to have resolved a buzzing noise associated with the recent SW box set (phantom menace, after the space-text, when the ship comes into screen). Is it recommended to re-run audyssey after a firmware upgrade, speaker settings etc seem to have been retained.
post #3340 of 3803
^^
Not unless the update changed any settings.
post #3341 of 3803
What's a good, cheap wireless ethernet bridge so that I can get this thing hooked up wirelessly to my network? (I think that's what I need?)
post #3342 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by RastaManMax View Post

What's a good, cheap wireless ethernet bridge so that I can get this thing hooked up wirelessly to my network? (I think that's what I need?)

Get an Airport. Apple quietly released a new one. So the old generation is discounted. And you can either stream or use a cable. or get a new one with better specs.

http://store.apple.com/us/browse/hom...co=MjEwNzM3NjE
post #3343 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Should be fairly easy ... there is only one screw holding down the card that needs to be removed. The new card should pop into place similar to installing a RAM card. Just make sure to discharge any static electricity from your body prior to the installation.

Review this link by another owner who describes how to replace the card.

Thanks for the link, with the above instructions it was super simple. I just finished replacing the card and the firmware is updating as I type this. All in all it took me just 30 minutes including removing and reinstalling the receiver into my cabinet and making the necessary connections.

Thanks again.

P.S. The firmware update fixed the audio drop outs in the new Star Wars blu-ray movies.
post #3344 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

I just am not sure what to do next, it's a very strange problem and 100% not a setting on the receiver. There is either some setting on the player that is missing or there is some bizarre HDMI incompatibility.

Have you tried using optical audio instead of HDMI?

Hi Batpig,
I finally got around to try the Optical connection as you suggested. But still no sound. I thought I update you and see if you have anything to try.

thanks for your time.
post #3345 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by netorders View Post

Get an Airport. Apple quietly released a new one. So the old generation is discounted. And you can either stream or use a cable. or get a new one with better specs.

http://store.apple.com/us/browse/hom...co=MjEwNzM3NjE

Thanks for the link and suggestion. Are there non-Apple solutions that provide more bang for the buck? It's $100 here in Canada

The reason i'm asking is because there usually is and I have no other Apple devices so it's not that I necessarily need to stream from iTunes or anything like that.
post #3346 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by RastaManMax View Post

Thanks for the link and suggestion. Are there non-Apple solutions that provide more bang for the buck? It's $100 here in Canada

The reason i'm asking is because there usually is and I have no other Apple devices so it's not that I necessarily need to stream from iTunes or anything like that.

Look for a TRENDnet TEW 647GA, you can probably find em for $40 if you look hard

-Erik
post #3347 of 3803
Thanks for the suggestions and leads guys!

Another question. I need a new power cord and potentially the antenna for my 990. Anybody know where I can get one cheap?

I can find a slew of 3 prong power cords but can't find any without the ground oddly enough. I saw on these forums that it doesn't really matter if you use a cable that has the ground. Just don't want to blow anything up by using the wrong cable.

In that case, i can just grab this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage

EDIT: By the way Batpig, thanks for the Denon installation instructions, I used it for my AVR-590, 890 and 990... Guess you could say I like Denon's LOL.
post #3348 of 3803
I brought my 3310 into an authorized dealer in Baltimore, Just Repair Audio, about nine days ago. They told me it would take 2 weeks before they looked at it. Instead, they replaced the NIC and I had it back in 8 days.

Was interesting to see all the av equipment in the shop for repair. Every brand imaginable, lots of Denons, Marantz, Onkyo, Yahama and others. Shop was looking for technicians and having a hard time finding good help. Seems like they are getting a ton of business these days.

Repair was under warranty. Cost me gas and two two-hour round trips.

Internet now works. My main reason to get it fixed was so I could use the Denon Android app to control my AVR. I wanted to find out if I could use the app to wirelessly control my avr from the three zones I plan to set up (adding some amps). App works quite well and seems like it would give me remote-control flexibility.

I also want to use the Net to connect by hardwire to my 700 CDs on a dedicated 1 Tb harddrive. Sometimes I get wireless interference. Yet I am leery of using the net on the AVR in case the NIC goes out again.

I'd be curious to know how many people use the internet functions regularly.

After I got the avr back, I also recalibrated. For the first time, Audessey set my towers at full range. Center crosses over at 60 Hz and surrounds cross at 110.

Now, my speakers are powerful and efficient. Four ohms, rated to go down to 28 Hz and they get close to that level without much distortion, especially in my smallish room. Probably some room gain.

Yet I still found it odd that Audessey put the towers at full range. I have done calibration at least a dozen times and that's never happened.

For now I have changed the towers to small and the crossover was set at 40 Hz when I did that. I plan to rerun calibration again.

The sub, an SVS 20-39, was also set at -12 db. I have everything defeated except the gain knob, which is set at the 10 am position. Surprised calibration drops the sub by 12 db, but it sounds fine.
post #3349 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffbar View Post

The sub, an SVS 20-39, was also set at -12 db.

Read somewhere -12 is the limit that audyssey can set. If you hit the limit youre supposed to lower gain on sub and rerun calibration till the level is not -12 ie within limit. Any result other than -12 is acceptable.
post #3350 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffbar View Post

After I got the avr back, I also recalibrated. For the first time, Audessey set my towers at full range. Center crosses over at 60 Hz and surrounds cross at 110.

Now, my speakers are powerful and efficient. Four ohms, rated to go down to 28 Hz and they get close to that level without much distortion, especially in my smallish room. Probably some room gain.

Yet I still found it odd that Audessey put the towers at full range. I have done calibration at least a dozen times and that's never happened.

For now I have changed the towers to small and the crossover was set at 40 Hz when I did that. I plan to rerun calibration again.

The sub, an SVS 20-39, was also set at -12 db. I have everything defeated except the gain knob, which is set at the 10 am position. Surprised calibration drops the sub by 12 db, but it sounds fine.

Not sure why the AVR doesn't always set your speakers to LARGE each time as it should do this if it detects a speaker can go below 50hz; however, you'll want to reset them to SMALL with either 60hz or 80hz crossovers. But before you do that, you'll need to lower the volume on your sub to about 8am and rerun AUTO SETUP again to get the trim below -12db.
post #3351 of 3803
Tks jd. That's what I will do.

I gather I am getting too much sub. It just seemed like the gain knob was too low at the 10 am setting. Glad to know it's not.

My towers have sometimes been set small and sometimes (usually) large, but the crossover has always come up at 40 Hz, at least until my last attempt.

Might be my room and where I set the listening positions. My HT room is odd shaped.

A wall juts out halfway on the left (bathroom), so the left surround is just 4 feet away from the sweet spot. The right side of the room is longer with a row of windows and no wall jutting out. The right surround is 12 feet away. And the sub is under an open spiral staircase, barely visible from the sweet spot because of the bathroom wall.

Far from ideal but nothing I can do. Still, Audyssey has made my HT room sound worlds better before auto calibration came along.
post #3352 of 3803
^^
When the AVR sets a speaker to LARGE it is always going to set the crossover to 40hz. Changing it to SMALL and raising it to 60hz or 80hz places more of the load on the sub which is usually better able to handle the lower frequencies.
post #3353 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffbar View Post


Now, my speakers are powerful and efficient. Four ohms, rated to go down to 28 Hz and they get close to that level without much distortion, especially in my smallish room. Probably some room gain.

4 OHMS??

Just curious, I was thinking of using some 4 ohm speakers (emotivas) with my 3310 and am hearing its not a good idea because of the amp section that went on a diet in 2010.

I would imagine if you were running full range speakers it would be a problem, but wouldnt it be less of a problem after calibration whereas the speakers are crossed over @ 80HZ, say for the mains/center/surrounds, since bass is the main power hog of the amp section?

Not sure if I plan on getting an external amp in the future, since I really dont listen to anything at high volumes. I generally dont listen to anything above -30/-20 on the volume level at any time, even movies, but who knows, someday I may push it some just for kicks.
post #3354 of 3803
whether a given 4ohm speaker is going to pose problems will depend on:

1) how loud you listen
2) how sensitive the speaker is
3) how big your room is
(all of the above will factor into how much power you actually need to achieve a given volume)

plus as you note crossing over the bass to a subwoofer can relieve the load on the receiver's amps.

furthermore, not all speakers rated "4ohm" are the same, impedance is not a static value. There are some speakers rated 4ohm nominal which will be easier loads than another speaker rated 6ohm nominal.

so, in other words, the answer is "maybe". but if you aren't going above -20 on the volume dial, and using a subwoofer for 80Hz and below, then chances are you will be fine.
post #3355 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

whether a given 4ohm speaker is going to pose problems will depend on:

1) how loud you listen
2) how sensitive the speaker is
3) how big your room is
(all of the above will factor into how much power you actually need to achieve a given volume)

plus as you note crossing over the bass to a subwoofer can relieve the load on the receiver's amps.

furthermore, not all speakers rated "4ohm" are the same, impedance is not a static value. There are some speakers rated 4ohm nominal which will be easier loads than another speaker rated 6ohm nominal.

so, in other words, the answer is "maybe". but if you aren't going above -20 on the volume dial, and using a subwoofer for 80Hz and below, then chances are you will be fine.

Well I'm *hoping* to get the (4ohm) surrounds in a couple of weeks, and not sure when I'd be getting the (4ohm) mains, if at all. The surrounds are def 4ohms though, and since they are only being used as surrounds, hopefully they wont be an issue?

But to answer, I dont really listen to volume at high levels, that is rare. The surrounds I plan to get are 89dB, the same as the monitor 70s/center I have as mains.

Plus, they are di/bi-pole and hopefully will work on the wall right behind me which the couch is against. Where there's a will there's a way.
post #3356 of 3803
I would recommend asking in the emotiva owners thread, and/or emailing emotive directly. Those surrounds are quite popular and I'm sure you will get good guidance.
post #3357 of 3803
I would recommend you ask in the emotive owners thread a
post #3358 of 3803
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

I would recommend asking in the emotiva owners thread, and/or emailing emotive directly. Those surrounds are quite popular and I'm sure you will get good guidance.

Ah, good call. Off to the thread I go!
post #3359 of 3803
Dunan,

My 3310 has no problem whatsoever powering my speakers. It's not a big room, mind you, and I rarely play at very high volume, but I get plenty of power. My towers cross at 60, the center at 80 and the surrounds at 110.

The Denon, in fact, does a much better job than a beefier HK AVR I had whose amp section was a lot more powerful.

I think you would be fine with the Emotivas.
post #3360 of 3803
Hi,
the title says a lot:
My just received (second hand set as new by manufacturer) 3310 shuts down itself (blinking Green line) sometimes restarts itself too after 5 minutes...

When it shut down, the green light from stand by button blinks twice every second.

I try to check if there is a short circuit, unplugged all, tried one or two speaker at a time etc...

Can't find the denon info on the green blinking : what does it mean ?
Is there a troubleshoot with cases listing ?

Thanks
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