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** OFFICIAL ** Denon AVR-3310CI/990 Owner's Thread - Page 125

post #3721 of 3903
Okay. Weird tho... Should work then
post #3722 of 3903
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
The above would be true with Zone 2 pre-outs, however, derman10 is using the FL/FR pre-outs which can pass any audio, HDMI or analog.

OK, but that way I can not get multichannel sources, like Blu-Rays :-(
post #3723 of 3903
Huh? The AVR will down mix any audio to however many speakers are in the setup ... in your case only 2 (FL/FR). smile.gif
post #3724 of 3903
The last thing I needed to do was update the firmware.

Updated it, and the PreOuts works!!!! :-D

But the volume is extremely low!!! Is that normal?

In the A/V Receiver up to -20dB and Cambridge 650A up to 50%!!!

Normally listen Cambridge 650A up to 20%!!!


many thanks to all for the suggestions!!!
post #3725 of 3903
So I got back the 3310 after about a month from the service center. They replaced the HDMI board and the network board. It’s been working fine so far. Try to do a firmware update and it says I already have the latest.

But I noticed something while setting it up this weekend.

If I am using the HDMI scaling to upscale picture to 1080p, it doesn’t preserve 24p mode. It always seems to be sending out in 1080p-60 mode.

For example, if my video player is sending out 1080p-24, the receiver will convert it to 1080p-60, and send it to my TV, even though my TV is capable of receiving 24p mode. The resolution is set to auto-mode. If I explicitly set it to 24p mode, it will work. Shouldn’t auto mode preserve the 24p signals? Also, I noticed it is converting the 12bit output from my video player back to 10bit.

Is the current generation of Denon receivers better in this regard? (preserve 24p, and 12bit signals?)

Thanks!
post #3726 of 3903
it's not a generational thing, it's an HDMI issue with the TV. The same thing could happen with a newer model too. For some reason the TV's EDID info is tricking the receiver into thinking that it "wants" 1080p/60 so the receiver is switching 1080p/24 > 60 when set to Auto mode. Most receiver/TV combos will work correctly (passing 1080p/24 untouched) but what you are experiencing does get reported occasionally.

you might just want to turn the i/p scaler off for your Blu-ray player input and let the player do any scaling for SD material.
post #3727 of 3903
Is this query done every time the device changes resolution? or only once on power on?

ie, is it something like this?

1) device switches resolution from 1080p/60 to 1080p/24 (start to play a movie)
2) receiver queries the TV, based on this input, what is your preferred input
3) TV replies 1080p/60. (wrong).

Don't know much about EDID, but logically it would seem that the TV just tells the receiver all the input format it can take, and the receiver should decide what to output based on the input... (the only special case really would be pass through 24p if TV supports it...). So logically it would seem the bug is in the receiver, not the TV. Unless of course the TV tells the receiver for every input format, what its preferred output is, this seems overly complicated..)
post #3728 of 3903
The EDID from the TV is indicating 1080p/60, so if you want to pass 1080p/24 to the TV, then as batpig indicated, either set the AVR's "i/P Scaler" setting to OFF for the BDP, or change the resolution from "Auto" to "1080p/24".
post #3729 of 3903
I want to use the front preouts to drive my towers. I currently have my 3310 bi-amped driving a set of polks as well as a set of pro studio towers that have 2 15 inch woofers each. Works wonderful but I have 2 problems. 1, the polks are driven as "large" which has already led to the demise of one of them and 2, the denon gets pretty hot after pushing the 4 15s for a half hour or so near full volume. If I set the fronts to "small" will the output from the preamp be small as well? Or will the preamp deliver full range? I have a crown xls202 that I want to use to take the strain away from the 3310. I can use the sub out if needed and unhook the mids and highs from the towers if needed, but if the preamp output will stay full range ill leave them intact until I build a custom 4 X 15 subwoofer enclosure. Thanks.
post #3730 of 3903
Yes, the LARGE/SMALL setting effects the pre-out audio as well. Note that when the sub is set to NO, the FL/FR speakers must default to LARGE.
post #3731 of 3903
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Yes, the LARGE/SMALL setting effects the pre-out audio as well. Note that when the sub is set to NO, the FL/FR speakers must default to LARGE.

Thank you, looks like ill be using the sub out.
post #3732 of 3903
So is there some secret to getting good bass out of audyssey? Or do you just manually turn the subwoofer up to get it to where you want it? I ran audyssey tonight and all of my speakers, including the subwoofer are -7 to -8db. If I manually turn the sub out up to about +6 it sounds pretty good. At -8 there seems to be no bass at all. Am I missing something here? Or is what I'm doing the way most people get good bass?
post #3733 of 3903
The resulting speaker/sub levels after running Audyssey are the levels the mixer intended you to hear the audio, ie. speakers and sub are calibrated to a 75db test tone to put out 85db-105db(115db LFE) audio at reference volume (ie. 0db). Your speakers and sub are apparently fairly efficient so they've got to be attenuated down by -7db to -8db to get to that 85db minimum level. Give it a few weeks to adjust to this way of listening, especially if you prefer more bass laden audio. If after that period, you still prefer more bass, simply bump up the sub volume (using the remote) a few db to suit your preference. Also note that using Audyssey Dyn EQ will bump up the bass at volume levels lower than 0db. Review the Audyssey 101/FAQ link in my sig for more information.
post #3734 of 3903
Thanks for the excellent info.
post #3735 of 3903
also ensure that your main speakers are set to SMALL with at least an 80Hz crossover. One of the reasons your sub may feel "weak" is that the crossovers on your fronts were set to 40Hz, which means a lot of the bass isn't getting redirected to the sub.
post #3736 of 3903
I am stuck in multichannel mode with my Blu-Ray player and hoping to get advice as to how correct it. I have it set to automatic on the Denon and I get Dolby for my DVR, but the Blu-Ray always goes to multi-channel.

I think the problem started a few weeks ago when I tried to play a SACD out of the Blu-Ray and must have sent a multi-channel output to the Denon. I have since done a factory reset on my Blu-Ray and a factory reset on the Denon with no success. Any help is greatly appreciated.
post #3737 of 3903
The Blu Ray player needs to be set to "bitstream" with Secondary audio set to OFF.
post #3738 of 3903
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The Blu Ray player needs to be set to "bitstream" with Secondary audio set to OFF.

Thank you! That did the trick. I appreciate your help.
post #3739 of 3903
Hi,
I have just purchased a Denon AVR 3310, it was from a store who had a lay-buy customer who never finished paying for it. I have it connected to my Panasonic TH-P55ST30A. Inputs are a Panasonic Bluray player and a Home Theatre PC (HTPC) which runs MythTV and XBMC.

The amp replaces a Yamaha RX-1900, which was a great unit, but is now in another room. When my HTPC was connected to the Yamaha, the brightness of the plasma was set exactly at 0 for my tastes. Setting the plasma at 0 for the Bluray player was also spot on. If I connect either the HTPC or the Bluray player directly to the plasma, 0 is once again the perfect setting.

But, with the new Denon receiver, the brightness is great for the Bluray player when set at 0, but for the HTPC I need to drop the brightness level of the plasma to around -15 for the same appearance as previously. I know the receiver has a brightness setting in the setup, but this is also set as low as possible. Even so, the picture looks a little washed out now when compared with the Bluray player.

I saw that in this post someone also had birghtness problems, but the issue there was too dark, the opposite of my issue.

I have the latest Nvidia drivers for the PC, and have tried many different settings at the input stage, and I can get the correct setting briefly if I setup the graphics card to send Ycbcr444, but as soon as the Refresh rate changes from 50Hz to 24Hz (for example) the brightness problem returns.

It seems like the problem is with the 3310, since if you remove it from the equation everything plays as it should.

Has anyone got any suggestions for me?
post #3740 of 3903
Hi,
I have just purchased a Denon AVR 3310, it was from a store who had a lay-buy customer who never finished paying for it. I have it connected to my Panasonic TH-P55ST30A. Inputs are a Panasonic Bluray player and a Home Theatre PC (HTPC) which runs MythTV and XBMC.

The amp replaces a Yamaha RX-1900, which was a great unit, but is now in another room. When my HTPC was connected to the Yamaha, the brightness of the plasma was set exactly at 0 for my tastes. Setting the plasma at 0 for the Bluray player was also spot on. If I connect either the HTPC or the Bluray player directly to the plasma, 0 is once again the perfect setting.

But, with the new Denon receiver, the brightness is great for the Bluray player when set at 0, but for the HTPC I need to drop the brightness level of the plasma to around -15 for the same appearance as previously. I know the receiver has a brightness setting in the setup, but this is also set as low as possible. Even so, the picture looks a little washed out now when compared with the Bluray player.

I saw that in post #2157 of this thread someone also had brightness problems, but the issue there was too dark, the opposite of my issue.

I have the latest Nvidia drivers for the PC, and have tried many different settings at the input stage, and I can get the correct setting briefly if I setup the graphics card to send Ycbcr444, but as soon as the Refresh rate changes from 50Hz to 24Hz (for example) the brightness problem returns.

It seems like the problem is with the 3310, since if you remove it from the equation everything plays as it should.

Has anyone got any suggestions for me?
post #3741 of 3903
If you are using Media Player Classic Home Cinema MPC-HC they may be enabled or disabled shaders, try CTRL-P. ! ! !
post #3742 of 3903
No, not using that.

One thing to note, it isn't just a media file that is incorrect brightness, it is the whole desktop including wallpapers, screensavers, web browsing and media.
post #3743 of 3903
For the PC setting, try adjusting the RGB output to full range.
post #3744 of 3903
I am looking into buying a used 3310 for my living room. I want to play music files on my from my windows media server in another room. It will all be hard-wired to the network. The only question I really have is, will the 3310 work with Denon Remote app on my iphone to access those files, or should I use another app? Or do I have to go with a 3311 to accomplish my goal of controlling the AVR and media server with my iphone?

I've searched but couldn't find a concrete answer...
post #3745 of 3903
I strongly recommend you go for a newer model than the 3310. Not only does the 3310 not have MultEQ XT like many newer models, but this specific model is notorious for having a defective network card that will eventually fail. Considering your primary goal is network streaming, I would caution you against the 3310.

Is there a specific reason you are looking at the 33xx level? A newer, lower level model will likely give you better sound quality and far superior network performance at around the same cost as a used 3310. The 2113CI is a real winner in this respect, it's got a perfect balance of features for the price and I highly recommend it. You should be able to get it for around $450ish if you call Electronics Expo. It's got a ton of features, 3-year warranty, and MultEQ XT calibration.

The networking is more robust on the newer models and the iPhone app integration is stronger as well. Check out the first few post of the xx13 owner's thread to see the features and differences on the new models: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1409431/the-official-denon-avr-xx13-model-owners-thread-faq
post #3746 of 3903
+1

I would bypass the 3310CI as well. Also according to the iTunes webpage, the Denon Remote app only works with the XX11 and newer models, while "for fee" apps, DenONOFF and DeRemote should both work with the 3310CI.
post #3747 of 3903
Thanks for the input. I would go for a 23XX, but I want the pre-outs to use a separate amp down the line and also have the bi-amping option. I will start looking at 11's and up.
post #3748 of 3903
FYI - Accessories4Less has refurb 3312ci for $599 with free shipping: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR3312CI/DENON-AVR-3312CI-7.2-Integrated-Network-A/V-Surround-Receiver-w/AirPlay/1.html

they are an authorized refurb dealer and you get a 1-year warranty.

if you want a new unit, looks like Amazon is selling them for $799 shipped. I would also call up authorized internet dealers like Electronics-Expo and see what they have in stock, they might be able to make you a great deal on a 3312ci or even a 3313ci, or they may have an open box floating around (which would carry full 3-year warranty).
post #3749 of 3903
@Galager -

You also may want to consider the Marantz 5006 which has FL/FR pre-outs and Audyssey MultEQ XT as well as the bi-amp feature.

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/MARSR5006/Marantz-SR5006-AV-Receiver-with-Networking-and-AirPlay/1.html
post #3750 of 3903
good call, I forgot the Marantz models (which are essentially rebadged Denon clones) offer pre-outs at a lower price point.
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