The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 5

Have you tried the Tint control? The canonical description is 'adjusting skin tones on the green purple axis'. Although actually seeing a green tint is sufficiently unusual that it sounds like a defect.

The KRP-A(P) is operationally rather different from the KRP-M but the internals may be sufficient similar that we can give you useful advice.

Yup. Good catch.

Any way to turn off the blue LED light? I see it can be dimmed, but ...

with your DVD adjstu greens until the green looks good and the other colors all look good. if Red, Green, Blue, White, Black, Gray, Cyan, Magenta and Yellow all look good, then you should be in the right ballpark. does EVERY color look good in the test DVD?

A piece of thick black tape should do the trick

That's kinda what I thought. Thanks.

Shhh!!! Don't give away all our secrets jbrady!

How's that patent application coming along?

I respect your stewardship of this thread. I also respect your measured, professional response to posts regarding settings and other topics. Not ever having been accused as a shrinking violet, I submit something for your consideration. Specifically, no fewer than 5 other display threads on the plasma forum include settings in their titles, including: Pioneer 8G/9G, and Pany Px60, PZ850U and 12G. Notwithstanding the history of this thread, I think it's entirely appropiate if owners and/or calibrators post settings in this thread.

As you may recall, I started a separate settings thread as a response to owners requests. It was closed, but not because settings for the 500m/600m violated any forum rules (how could it?).

Therefore, in the interest of why Alan started this forum in 1999 and my personal beliefs - to appropriately share ALL information regarding our great hobby/affliction to the betterment of all, I again respectfully request you reconsider your stance of not including settings in this thread, unless you've been directed by a mod otherwise, which in that case I willing to, again appropriately, escalate the matter.

Thanks again for your excellent stewardship of this thread.

Tim

I don't see a need for a dedicated KRP settings thread but there shouldn't be an issue with posting them here. Sounds to me like bodosom objects more to using someone else's settings on your TV (I agree with him to an extent) than it being an on-topic or off-topic issue.

Agree, but if someone wants to post their settings, why not. If replication is the issue, that can be handled in the same way as "where should I buy" posts - RTDT (read the darn thread).

I agree - this is an open forum. I understand there are rules in regards to pricing and advertising, but I do not see the reason to object for settings to be posted. The 600m settings are not in the FAQ and not in the settings thread.

bodosom - your FAQ links to the settings page, but I do not see the settings elite-home posted for the 600m. They were there at one point, now they are gone. These are settings people are asking for, so that is why I posted them.

I appreciate you working on a FAQ and that is very helpful, but I recommend updating the FAQ with these settings instead of pointing to a post. For some reason, some posts have disappeared.

In regards to the green tint issue, read the first few pages of the setting thread. Someone mentions the settings are somewhat green and reference the changes they made. I believe it was on a 500m, not a 600m though.

I love it when 'but' supercedes 'Agree(d)'.

Again, I don't have a problem with posting settings. However, I am from the camp that believes there's too many variables for one configuration to be right for more than one display device.

There's certainly no harm in sharing Tim so consider yourself nominated!

(I'll post my settings once I've had a chance to at least take a look at DVE or Avia in the Blu-Ray player I don't have yet).

Since people are asking for settings, I'll post these again--my 500M settings for user mode, which gives a much brighter image than pure mode. What I've found interesting, though, is that everyone on this board seems to want to use only pure mode (or now ISFccc patched mode), and are reluctant to give anything else a shot.

I agree that settings don't necessarily transfer from one display to another, but it can't hurt if someone wants to try things out.

contrast 35
brightness +4
color +5
tint 1 red
sharpness -10
color temp manual
R high -4
G high 0
B high -8
R low -8
G low 0
B low +4
gamma 1
pro adjust
film mode standard
text optimization off
intelligent mode mode 1
DRE low
black level off
ACL off
enhancer mode 2(natural)
CTI off
color management
R +5
Y 0
G 0
C 0
B +10
M 0
color space 2
3DNR off
field NR off
block NR off
mosquito NR off
I-P mode 2
drive mode 1

Can other 600m owners chime in on what wall mount they used. I am looking for a fixed mount that does not protrude too far from the wall. I am trying to figure out what solution has been the best for other owners. Any thoughts would be appreciated. After reading the FAQ, it seems my options are the following:

Sanus VMPL3: Comes with low profile (1.5") AND tilting attachment (2.5). You use one or the other.
Peerless PLA60: Articulating wall arm, you need the adaptor plate too (PLP-NEC61)
Peerless SA760P
Peerless ST670
Peerless SF670
Pioneer KRP-WM01
Omni Mount U3 Tillt
OmniMount ULPTX (low profile)
OmiMount Architectural cantilever
Promounts UF-PRO400
Chief LSAU, LSMU (flat), LTAU, LTMU (tilt)

I can tell just by looking at your settings that your grayscale is a complete mess (for starters).

But as long as you like how it looks, that's all that matters.

As an aside I don't consider myself a steward of anything but the FAQ.

As has been suggested when I said "post settings" I meant mine. I certainly don't presume to impede anyone else and there are links to post-calibration settings in the FAQ. Despite personal misgivings I even posted some settings here and obviously nothing terrible has happened.

BTW, aside from the issues of image fidelity I was dismayed at the amount of time people spent posting fiddlings of settings in a previous life. That does not seem to be the case for Kuro owners.

Should DRE be set to low or off?

As of this instant both elite-home's and frustated's 600M post-cal settings are still in the old thread and the FAQ links work.

I don't like to repost things for a couple of reasons:

1. The original poster loses the ability to edit them. I think this is unfair to them because it means more work should they choose to make changes.
2. Worse the original poster loses the ability to instantly remove them. Particularly in the case of calibrated settings they have paid for those and should they choose to remove them from public I don't want to interfere. Google will do that well enough.

Here's my grayscale. Do you still think it's a "complete mess?"

That's actually a terribly complicated question. With DRE off the KRP clips certain above reference white values. With it on there are visible artifacts at very low luminance which requires a bit of black crush to eliminate. It's also been reported that there are other artifacts which I either don't see or are not bothered by. Searching the old thread for DRE will reveal much of the angst between jdbimmer and me about this subject.

The settings I listed are what I used for break in without any issue.

I am using the Pure settings on my 600m and absolutely love them. So consider those my settings.

I know I seem to be a bit of an Spears & Munsil fanboy but if you want to get the best performance from your KRP you should get their assessment disc.

If the only thing it did was help you set color correctly by eye it would be worth it but absent the HQV disc it's the only reasonable way of evaluating scaling, deinterlacing and color space selection.

Shocked that you chose gamma 1 with User mode. I find gamma level 3 or 4 to be the most accurate by eye

I leave that between you, elite-home and D-Nice.

The value of sharing settings is debatable, but if you do share, here are some suggestions:

1. Try to roughly follow D-Nice's format here that includes Model and Mode (e.g. 500m Pure)
2. If you use your own special notation for settings and values, explain them (cough, ahem, cough..Bodosom)
3. List the build date of your display
4. Describe in detail the method and devices used to calibrate your display: Meter/Software (HCFR, Calman, Colorfacts, i1Pro, C5, D2, DTP94), Calibration disks (DVE, AVSHD, S&M, GetGray), Source (BD, DVD, HTPC), You paid someone (Joe the Calibrator), Your superhuman vision with genetic spectroradiometer retina.
5. List the Input, Colorspace/Signal Type, and Resolution used during the calibration: HDMI/DVI; RGB, YCbCr; 1080i/1080p/720p
6. Attach a report with your measured data and charts for grayscale, gamma, and color
7. Do not beg for other peoples settings if they don't want to provide them
8. If you use someone's settings, don't post how terrible they look on your display

I don't think that's true in general and it certainly wasn't true for me. I used Pure with low ambient illumination and User in a bright room. It is true that I'm now using an ISF mode for a bright room but that's because it measures better than User. I still prefer Pure with some content but the win with ISF is a better range of gamma settings and of course the ability to have split gamma which is all the rage with the cool kids.

I've got all 3.

I forgot about the S & M disc.

This should go in post #1 and stickied to the top of every new page!

Interesting as my experience has been that making CMS adjustments beyond +/- 2 yields significant grayscale errors.

It's extremely efficient to dump the values as returned from the Kuro (with simple, yet clear, tags). I did write a script to reformat the numbers into a less efficient, albeit more comforting, form.

By the way I looked at windowed output for the three sizes produced by the CalMAN soft-generator plus one just a bit bigger than the meter. There's only about a 4 fL delta.

or