The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 59

Did you check the workflow at the ControlCAL site?

So is it just me or has the inventory of the 600m's completely dried up over the past week or so? I'll just say I'm glad I ordered mine when I did(two weeks ago) or I'd have a mighty difficult time finding one.

I'd imagine that by the end of September it'll be next-to impossible to find a 600m.

So happy I got mine last week. I can't stop watching Blu-ray movies on it, it's gorgeous!!

Seems like they are almost gone.

I can't find any from a reputable seller anymore for my FIL

have you checked with elite-home yet?

no, I haven't, but will right now. Thanks!

whoever says the blacks are blacker is overexhaggerating. And they are not for the reasons you stated. The higher whites against blacks may contribute to this overexhaggeration but technically its no improvement. The blacks before isf modes for me were black as hell. And thats good enough.

+1 for elite-home...nice guy, great deal

Hi guys- I'm relatively new to these forums and I just setup my new Pioneer KRP-500M and couldn't be happier. I have a slight problem and I know the solution is on here somewhere because I ran across it before but forgot to bookmark it, and now I can't find it in the search! The problem is this:

I used DNICE's 150hr break-in and then his Pure Reference settings following that. I have all my HDMI components connected to the TV via an HDMI 1.3b-compatible 5-to-1 switcher. When I switch from one component to another, the TV will often reset all the picture settings I'd just made. I've read on here that it does this when changing resolutions and it has a max memory of 8. My various components output only 4 different resolutions: 480p/720p/1080i/1080p. Does this mean I just need to keep resetting the picture settings for each device that outputs a new resolution and, as long as I have less than 8 total resolutions, I'll eventually be ok after it saves all these settings? Is there any solution to this problem? Thanks in advance!

Has anyone posted any settings for the patched 600M yet? ISF day and night settings? I couldnt find any. Thanks!

Yes, you'll have to set (but not reset) of each resolution (on each input). If it seems to be more than four you might want to check info display to verify the input resolution. Some devices display system menus in one resolution and the program material in another.

By bad. I got carried away with the statement about darker blacks. The 500M is so much better than the set it repaced. That difference is still fresh in my brain.

omg! i just purchased the 500m today and am trying to read up on it. this thread so far, i've gotten to page twenty and the technical jargon is really starting to intimidate me. making me wonder if i bought the right panel. tell me i don't have to take a course in isf calibration please. you guys speak in terms that are making my head spin. am i in for the long haul to get the most out of this purchase?

Look in the controlcal forums.

Nah, this set is easy to set up. Just put it into pure mode, then triangulate the inverse of the gamma values, tweak the DRE module, making sure that you're not clipping your whites, then go into the advanced settings and make sure that the color temperature is exactly 6500 degree Kelvin and that you don't have orbiter set to maximum throttle. Piece of cake!

Yes, this TV has a lot of options for you to tweak, but I'm sure that you can get a great picture with one of the picture setting presets and playing with the standard controls found on all TVs (Brightness, Contrast, Color, Hue, etc.)

Just got my 600m today and it's up and running! What an incredible pic out of the box!!! Can't wait to get break-in done then get the pic settings done!! What is best setting for break-in? and how long is break-in?

Congrats, here you go:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1053444

Congratulations on your new Kuro. Some/a few/many of your questions will be answered in the KRP FAQ.

Congratulations on your new Kuro. For many people it's sufficient to use Pure mode and start with something like* the D-Nice post break-in settings. For starters read over the FAQ and ask about or ignore anything you find confusing.

Note that many people come to a Kuro from a display that is too blue and contrasty. Compared to that Pure looks a bit yellow and dim so you should give yourself time to adjust to a more accurate image.

*I say like because if you don't use the optional D-Nice break-in he doesn't want you to have any expectations about the utility of his settings.

hey all. My 500m is scheduled for delivery today : ). Any advice on how to check for cracks? Should the glass be absolutely 100% perfect? If there's a little scratch in the corner should I refuse?

I'm hoping everything is fine because the place I ordered from no longer has it in stock on their webpage.

I experimented with my 600M this weekend to see what's really going on with black level and shadow detail. I made a few observations.

If you set your black level using the AVS HD 709 chapter 1- Black Clipping Pattern, you will most likely end up with a brightness setting of +1. This setting will preserve the blackest blacks in very low level scenes. But it WILL clip shadow detail in most content.

If you set your black level using the AVS HD 709 chapter 2- APL Clipping Pattern, you will most likely end up with a brightness setting of at least +3. This setting will preserve shadow detail in high level scenes. But it WILL perceptibly lighten your black level.

Some other technologies suffer here because the white bars wash out the near black pattern. But this set is not like that. The blacks on this set seem to get blacker when the APL goes up. In the Black Clipping Pattern, a certain amount of noise is visible even in the black. But in the APL Clipping Pattern the black becomes completely quiet. Curious.

I found that a brightness setting of +2 is best. This setting will preserve most of the shadow detail in real content and the lightening of the black level is practically imperceptible.

CRT technology has a similar issue according to displaymate.com. “…the black-level luminance of a CRT can be reduced even more by turning the Black-Level Control further down into a “blacker-than-black” regime, but this will cause a loss of the lower end of the gray-scale.”

I’m saying that this set seems similar to a CRT in that they both have excellent blacks, but you have to ride the line between the blackest blacks and preserving shadow detail.

Another important part of preserving shadow detail is making sure that all three colors come out of black at the same time. With R Low, G Low and B Low all set to 0, blue comes out of black before red does, followed by green. I set my low end gray scale with the 1% field to make sure that R, G and B come out of black at the same time. I have checked the rest of the grayscale, and it remains correct.

My settings are:
Brightness: +2
R Low: +1
G Low: +3
B Low: 0

(To set gray at 1% I do a time exposure with my camera, a Canon EOS-5D. I will readily concede that at higher levels a colorimeter might be more accurate. But at very low levels like this, I am quite confident that a time exposure with a camera is far more accurate than consumer grade colorimeters.)

Ayreonaut: do u just check the raw file in photoshop to see the levels of rgb and adjust from there...or are you eyeballing from the camera screen.

On my 600M the black level remains the same when viewing AVS HD 709 chapter 1 and AVS HD 709 chapter 2. You have to really look close and even get up close to screen but the black level does not change. The eye has a hard time to adjust to the increase in light level and give the impression black level changes.

I use the 1% window to adjust black level so it is barely visible and on my display this is between -1 and 0. I use 0.

Barry

The brightness control is quite non-linear and every set is individual but I'm surprised you feel you're losing shadow detail at +1.

Using a camera for calibration colorimetry has been thorougly debunked. I don't know what you mean by consumer grade but there are quite accurate colorimeters for < $500.

Are you sure you're losing real "legal" shadow detail at +1 brightness? A lot of content will have detail below legal black but it shouldn't be visible.

I am observing the RGB histogram on the camera. The camera is set to neutral color style which is the most accurate, and 6500K. At near black, a change of +1 to R Low, G Low or B Low is huge. There is no question about it.

I have tried it both ways, from a normal viewing distance with bias lighting, and up close with all of the lights out. My conclusion has been that if shadow detail is invisible under my normal viewing conditions, what good is it?
This is very curious because the 600M calibration results posted here by the pros have used Brightness: +1.

Yes, I'm using both the AVS HD 709 patterns and low level bitmap files that I created.

Here's how I know.

First I tried setting Brightness to +1. I then set greyscale correctly for 10% (or 30%). Then I measured a 1% pattern. It was similar in color to the 0% pattern (too blue) because the colors weren't coming up together. 2% measured neutral gray at those settings.

Then I set the Brightness to +2. I was then able to set the greyscale so that 1% and 10% and 30% etc. were all perfectly gray. All the colors came up together because they weren't being clipped at 1%.
I know there are. But I understand that they aren't very useful at 1%. Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I read in the Greyscale & Color Calibration for Dummies.