The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 7

Nothing for the most part, the relationship with Pioneer as an authorized dealer has never been "accurate" on their website. You can verify approval with the respective company whom you are considering and if they aren't able to provide----- stay stay away.

Turbe,

Thank you for pointing us out. Yes, we tour Texas several times per year and are currently planning our next trip to take place in the October/November time frame. We will be updating our website shortly to detail the upcoming tour schedule!

Good Pictures!

Dave

I patched up the 500M today and the install went smoothly.

For now I'm using D-Nice's Pure settings with a few minor changes. Contrast for Night/Day is 19/38 respectively, and I bumped all gamma controls to -1 and it looks great. ISF Night looks absolutely fantastic. ISF Day clearly needs some slight tweaking, but it's still excellent.

I can't wait to get them fully calibrated now.

If any calibrators are coming to the Bristol NASCAR race in August I will trade you room and board for a calibration.

Not sure if that list was ever accurate but there has been allot of developments in the industry lately with distributors going out of business etc. As I always said you have to decide if you trust your dealer by checking their ratings etc.

lol didnt see your post but i posted pretty much exact thing

i am wondering if anyone has break in settings? i wont be using the Evangelo2's Break-in DVD, i am just going to use my sons backyardigans dvd's and material like that. i tried d nices and i am worried that is i use this material with the brightness of his settings that i am for sure going to get a burn in. o i have a 500m...

If you are not planning on using D-NICE's settings you can just do nothing. Just dont leave in on pause for a long time and run as much full screen content as possible. And last but not least ENJOY.
I have not seen burn in for a VERY long time on Pioneer

ok well my second question then is, what are the benefits of using his settings? and should i input is after break in setting s now or still wait until my 150 hr break period is over

Pioneer KRP-500M Pure Mode Reference Settings (ONLY use these settings after the 150 hour break-in period!!!!!!!!!)

is what he says about that

Everyone is different and not everyone uses his settings. You can also look at the first page of this thread at the faq it gives much info as well.

Hey- they say great minds think alike

I haven't been getting much sleep lately, so could you please tell me the numeric differences betwwen the two settings.
I'm using Evangelo's break-in SuperCD (DVD iso).

Thanks

Last night while watching a movie, I was adjusting my settings and my display screen went black for a second, came back on. This happend a few times. Pioneer player is running thru HDMI port 6. I switched my player with my cable box and it happend again. Did I get a lemmon? Anything Ideas? No loss of audio from either source when this happens. Dont think it's a source issue.

Some changes can trigger the HDMI/HDCP handshake. This can result in a video-only loss. Without more infomation it's hard to say.

bodosom,

Can u elaberate on HDMI/HDCP handshake? Is it a setting or a fault of somekind?

Thanks...

[I don't know if you saw my gamma table]

On mine the gamma ranges from ~1.8 to ~2.4 (+4 and -4 resp.) with 0 at 2.1 and -1 at 2.2. I'm currently trying -4 at night.

No, it's just how HDMI devices work but it can cause a brief loss of video. Changing AV mode will cause loss of video. Probably other things as well.

This was happening when just whatching a movie, happend more frequent when I was adjusting picture settings on display and dvd player, then I swapt out sources and it happend once with the STB then I went to bed. Calling pioneer as soon as they open.

It not a numeric difference. This is the missing part:

This line was recently changed, presumably in response to various requests for clarification or assertions by various people that the break-in doesn't need to be non-stop. Prior to that is was changed to delete the reference to the thumb-drive images -- possibly in response to the fact that the monitors don't have usb ports.

To briefly editorialize:
The D-Nice process is based on his extensive experience with Kuro displays. It's a specific regimen followed by specific settings with a particular goal in mind. I'm of the opinion that if you don't plan to follow the procedure in detail there's no point in following it at all. I'm fairly confident that anyone that suggests you can vary the process but still use the post-break-in settings or that it's okay to watch movies during the break-in as long as you use full-screen etc. etc. is not speaking for D-Nice.

Finally please be aware that I take no position on and make no recommendation with respect to break-in. I suggest that you get the Spears & Munsil disc to adjust your display. If you think that's insufficient then I recommend a calibration.

I have to echo that statement too.

I've seen a few people say "I'll break in with Planet Earth" or some other disc. The break in disc listed in the settings has different shades and ranges of colors that break in the plasma evenly. That is why it is recommended.

Realize that you do not have to do break it in at all, but if you are going to, follow the steps outlined as close as possible. I stuck my 600m in a room for 6 days and let it run. The break in DVD loops, so you can pretty much leave it alone and let it run, just check on it every now and then. It was painless. Creating the DVD from the ISO was also painless.

But using a standard movie disc or show for break in is not going to give you the same benefit at all. Some of the people here who posts these tips and suggestions are calibrators (like D-Nice), so follow the expert advice when it is given for the best results.

I have been plowing through this thread over the last week and it's made the decision easy for me...I will be ordering a 500m by the weekend (not sure where yet!)...thanks for all of the useful info guys.

Anyway, re: break-in...I will be having Doug Blackburn calibrate my panel eventually and this was his take on it:

Break-in discs are totally unnecessary. The most important thing is to use a variety of programming so you "exercise" all the pixels relatively equally - and to avoid stationary graphics (like logos) and black bars as much as possible (though SOME of that is OK as long as it is not overdone - HDNet removes their logo for periods of time... HDNet Movies tends to run movies in their original aspect ratio so there may be black bars... some of the other channels tend to force movies to fill the entire 16:9 screen regardless of the original aspect ratio - those channels are better during breakin - though, again, 2 or 3 hours of black bars isn't a disaster, you just need to fill the screen for a while after the black bars. I think using very specific settings and break-in discs is a form of obsessive compulsive videophile behavior that has no benefit of any kind. Technology changes and improves over time... there was a time when plasma break-in was beneficial. Today... I can't think of any plasma panel that benefits from any special process for break-in (save the commments in the next paragraph).

Using the display at "sane" levels when it is new is critical. And for plasmas, avoiding more than 2 or 3 hours of the same sort of black bars is a very good idea in the first 150 hours or so, is important. Beyond that, nothing you can do with a disc/disc player/USB stick will be of any additional benefit. I also don't think hours and hours of the nastier logos (Histor Channel is particularly bad) is a good idea for plasmas in the early going either.


Nothing wrong with using break-in discs, but it's not required by any means...different strokes for different folks!

I've done some searching and couldn't find much about this.

On my 600m I noticed last night on the web console a link for "ISF". I clicked it and it prompted me for a password. "admin" doesn't work. Did some searching and couldn't find anything, but found that you can bypass the password by going to page directly - http:///cgi/isf.cgi

Now I didn't do anything, but did see a good amount of adjustments. I also found one page where someone explains that if you make ISF settings for the input, the ISF mode will appear for that input.

So what are the pros/cons of this? I saw one post from turbe where he said not all settings are there, but is it still worth experimenting with?

When a handshake occurs on the KRP you will momentarily see the Status Window with the Input, Color Depth Bits, & Resolution listed in the left hand corner of the screen.

The screen will also go blank for a second and then re-draw when you make changes to certain settings like Drive Mode and Pure Cinema. If it goes blank randomly when you are not changing settings, that would be an issue.

The ISF modes are unavailable unless you apply a 3rd party patch. PM Turbe and ask him about it.

starting to wonder if you are getting a nickel for each copy sold...just kidding. I was going to buy it until I realized that Munsil was not Albert Henry Munsell and Britney was not on the disk at all.
Impressions so far with that setting?

I wouldn't say "totally" - check out this article where output measurements were done during a break-in period:

http://avical.com/articles/avical-pi...in-report.html

The conclusion was:

There is no question that these displays need breaking-in. Out of the box, the default settings rendered a grayscale that was too warm as well as green. During the 213-hour break-in process, the display became warmer and more green - not dramatically so, but enough to warrant putting in some hours before making an appointment for calibration. Based on this and what I've read, here is what I've learned about break-in time:

• If you plan on calibrating it, it is a good idea, as that report showed.
• If you have the time and ability, there is no problem doing it.
• If you don't plan on calibrating it, or don't have the time, don't worry about it. The picture will look good out of the box.

It's a optional, best practice, depending on your needs. It isn't a rule or a must do, I agree with the "obsessed, compulsive" statement because of the nature of some of the people who buy these sets and that are on these boards. A good amount are technical in nature, probably engineers. Analytical thinking and absolutes are their nature. Someone who isn't could read posts on break-in and really wonder if must be done.

I know I was confused at first by reading these boards if I should do it or not. But in the end, I couldn't hang my set for a week anyways, so I did it because I had the time and might get it professionally calibrated.

So there are benefits to doing it, but it depends on your wants and needs. I could tell a different in black level between 50 hours and 200 hours, though it was small.

Also, depending on which Kuro you have, the panel comes with break in hours already on it. Check the Kuro comparison thread for more info on that.

Ummm, this guys says differently:

http://moshjahan.net/blog/blog/defau...n-Pioneer-KURO

No offense, but if you haven't personally tried, how do you know? Again, I saw that turbe said not all the settings are available if you do this. But the question remains - what does this do? I might try tonight on an input I don't plan on using.

An excellent decision. You'll will be getting one of the best of the best.


Just to be clear ... the D-Nice process is not quite what Doug was talking about (taking a risk here and trying to interpret what he said). D-Nice has revised his instructions over time (although the 8G instructions said OPTIONAL in big letters) to make it clear that his procedure is not about what most people think of as break-in. It probably shouldn't be called that but it does share some attributes of old-school plasma preparation. What Doug is probably talking about happens in the factory when you buy a KRP. What D-Nice is doing is a pre-calibration of sorts. Sadly a great many people have taken various legitimate threads and woven them into a mistake. The manufacturers don't help with their conflicting and often ridiculous advice.

And later today I'll have another. I suppose I should get rid of one.


I've not done valid comparisons yet but it sort of tastes more like Pure which I seem to prefer for certain "painterly" material. I think I'll have some time this weekend to get serious.

Howdy!

Just got my 600M on 7/14. Perfect set, no buzz, etc.

Many thanks to everyone on this board as it made my buying decision extremely easy! I will not be breaking it in and am experimenting with some of the suggested settings (NOT the burn in settings!).

I am using HDMI 5 as the sole input from a Zektor 3:1 HDMI switch. I have Directv (H-20), Panasonice BD-55 and Toshiba HD-A1 hooked up to the Zektor. The 600M is set to PURE mode with VIDEO set to AUTO. Whenever I watch Directv the AUTO mode sets VIDEO to RGB(0-255) and the blacks are not right. I must manually switch to RGB(16-255) for better blacks and then switch back to AUTO whenever I play any BD, HD or DVD disc (which look fine).

Is there any way to set this so that the "default" for Directv is the "blacker" RGB(16-235) and I don't have to be manually setting this?

I am using a Harmony One remote to control my system - perhaps program this to do the switching?

Thanks!