Originally Posted by hifisponge
I entered Elite-Home's "Pure Mode" settings for my 600M and I don't like them at all.
That in and of itself doesn't mean anything. Every display is different and an accomodating calibrator will take into account your wishes as well as your environment. Assuming AVR HDMI out to the Kuro you have three inputs that can be individually calibrated with multiple settings on each input giving you a wealth of choices.
The color looks washed out, the picture looks soft and the whites look yellowish. By contrast, I adjusted the settings in Standard mode to a "mid-low" temp, sharpness at 0 (instead of -15), and color to +10. To my eye, this made the whites look white, improved the detail without any obvious false contouring and made the color look more pleasingly saturated.
This is a common occurrence when moving from a lesser display to a Kuro. Given some willingness you should adapt quite quickly to a calibrated display.
Is Pure Mode close to what a calibrated set would look like? What exactly are the differences between Pure and ISF? I'm looking for a point of reference to help me decide if I should pay for a calibration.
The grossest difference between ISF and Pure is maximum light output and that high output is very useful in the absence of complete light control. I use a high-output ISF mode in the daytime. I find the other differences subtle* but many disagree. I personally have no trouble recommending calibrated ISFccc in the absence of complete light control but you could still find it a waste of money. Of course I would also suggest that you get Pure calibrated as well.
I do tend to use ISF modes most of the time but a large part of that is laziness. The ISF modes are adjacent in the menu so it's easy to toggle between them. When I switch to IP control that will no longer be an issue.*The difference between default Sport and Pure is dramatic. The difference between indentically calibrated Pure and (low output) ISF is subtle.