The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 137

That's very reassuring. Seems like I'll be able to do the break-in after all ( Assuming I don't get a cracked one ).

So if you get the patch do you have full access to calibrate same as a professional? If you have the equipment and know what you are doing of course. The idea has crossed my mind as well although I'm not sure I'd be comfortable doing it. I will most likely leave that in the hands of the professionals.

Yes, it should work as long as you have a recent and decent graphics chipset and updated drivers. I just checked my laptops. The older one has a lowly ATI Mobility Radeon X300 and the new one has a NVidia Quadro NVS 135M. Not exactly state of the art components, but capable of 1920x1080p/60.

Yes.

Someone? Why don't you do it?

Encyclopaedic amount of info here, both good and bad... So many repetitive questions. I don't think most people are stupid, there's just so much to sift through, so much to ingest and assimilate. I haven't even taken delivery of my KRP, I was hoping to get a headstart with regards to setup, calibration etc...

It's not that people don't know how to google site:avsforum KRP AND "******" AND "******", it's just too exhausting

Purchased 500m after reviewing avsforum posts. Wanted good hdtv to replace 15 year old Toshiba 35" with expectation of owning it for several years.

Probably will repeat some info but just a few comments about the set.

Using buyersclub watt meter, found Monitor uses about 5 cents per hour during viewing at 11.5 cents per kw. Found front panel runs about 45 degrees warmer than room temperature. Back is about 20 degrees cooler than front.

Main disappointment (from expectation) is watching some movies "dvd/bluray" didn't think about the movie shown to scale would not fill up the screen and would leave substantial amount of 'black' above and below movie image. Makes me wish we had purchased the 600m instead, to get a greater height. We actually pulled two recliners to within seven feet to better enjoy the first few movies. Now I understand why one of the 'site's' info said that a 50" screen was best viewed at about 6 to 8 feet away. Just this alone will make us replace the 500m sooner than expected.

I have spent hours reading the forums and think I understand that the set is great out of the box, better with Dnice's Pure settings, closer to film standards with isf settings, and closer still to film standards with calibration. Is that correct?

Also, are their factory patches that should be done?

Thanks, Jerry





We will be only using a 'dish' satellite and bluray player for input.

Hey there....I have a Harmony 520 remote, which is a lower model and not as fancy as the Harmony 1, but it'll pretty much do the same thing. I bought it about 8 months ago for like $50.

I have to say, I love the remote, no complaints from me. I have a farely simple setup- PS3 and TWC connected via HDMI to a Marantz receiver and out via HDMI to the 500M. It makes things so much easier for my wife, who just has to press the "watch TV" button on the remote and everything turns on and switches to the correct inputs. And then all she has to do is press one button to turn everything off.

Also, if you have a PS3 and considering a Harmony remote, get the Nyko USB adapter so that the Harmony can control the PS3! It comes with a bluetooth remote, but you won't need the remote. I just bought it for the adapter.

Hi everyone.

First let me apologize for not searching for this. I am mobile and will only have a couple hours with my newly delivered 500m before I leave for the holidays and want to make sure I set it up for break in properly.

I've obtained the break in dvd (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=949107) but am reading anywhere from 200 to 1000 hours of break in before a given set is ready for normal viewing.

Is there a recommended number for the 500m's? Since I will be gone for about a week before I can come home to play with it, I figure the Low Contrast/Brightness option over the course of 7-10 days would be more than adequate however I don't want to overdue it (although I would hope that wouldn't be a likely outcome).

Thoughts, opinions?

I've own several Harmony remote, and products such as Squeeze box transporter I've been nothing but disappointed I couldn't care less for there CS, database systems etc. Seem to be more than a hassle than anything else FOR ME! I'm sure 99% of members here have had never had any issues, but I've fallen in the other side of that percentile. But thanks for the heads up though.

I'm just going to do some real research, and possibly end up hiring someone to do the programming on a non Harmony remote.

Cheers

Djoel

Any recommendation depends on your goal. The D-Nice panel aging process is intended for a single purpose. For generic early use the manual has Pioneer's recomendation. I don't know what you mean by the "Low Contrast/Brightness option" but if you're suggesting leaving your panel running unattended for a week then I'd say that's a bad idea.

A somewhat dated comment: A good CRT sets the standard for black level. Anything other than OLED can only aspire to CRT levels.

Contrast is a different story and is probably more important for most people.

So how many hours at a time would you recommend running the KRp-500M during the break-in? Sorry, too much conflicting info...

Sorry, I made that post before I actually started the break in process. The first post in this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6230381, makes mention of the two school's of though. I assumed the break-in dvd would have two options but it just runs.

I have reviewed D-Nice's threads and have adjusted my set to his/her recommended settings during the break in process.

He makes mention of 150 hours burn in which is roughly 6 days and 6 hours. I started my break in at 6pm today so starting tomorrow I should leave the set running the break in DVD for 6 days, correct? However I am in a situation where I can run the DVD for a day and a half or 7-8 days unless I come home from visiting family early.

Is it counter productive to break in a tv for more than 150 hours? I doesn't seem logical that plain colored screens could hurt the device as long as it doesn't overheat while displaying.

I know a million things could happen, but what are the big dangerous points for leaving the panel running that long without me here?

If it is really that dangerous (or flat out stupid) then I suppose I could post-pone the break in period till I return and keep it running in the corner for a week while I watch the old panel, but I will still be at work for 8 hours a day while its running.. so where is the line drawn in regards to how much time you should leave your set running?

OR... have I completely missed the point and the 150 break in period is supposed to be done in segments?

You can have mine. It's 3 months old, with a stand and 5 year warranty so it might be a little more than 2k. Excellent condition with manaual remote, and orignial box.

There nothing wrong with running the panel continuously but I wouldn't leave it unsupervised for an extended period of time.

Two hours on...two hours off...
Four hours on...two hours off...

etc

I can turn it on and off via the web interface and leave the DVD running, right?
Or will this result in an 'uneven' break-in?

pm me, re what you have and what are you looking for it.

that brings me to another question. having worked in big box stores before i have a little history with third party extended warranties. I believe Mack is the third party available through my dealer... do the pros outweigh the cons to purchase it or just ride it for the first year (assuming any issues will arise in the first year of operation)

I'll be taking delivery of the 500M in a couple days and I'm SUPER excited. This will be my very first flat panel display, replacing an old 27" CRT. Thanks to everyone in this thread for helping me make the right decision! I look forward to being a proud Kuro owner

Damn. And there I was thinking I got I got the very last retail one...

What blu-ray player are you getting? On both my Oppo BDP-83 and PS3, I can zoon the image so that it fills in the entire screen.

was watching a movie on cable when I hit the guide button and noticed the menu to be green instead of normal blue. started flipping through channels and noticed the color all out of sync.. everything was a pink hue, blues were green, etc. switched to another input then back again to what I was watching and it seemed to correct itself and colors are back to normal.

WHY WOULD THE SET JUST SKEW COLORS LIKE THAT? Do I have a faulty 500M?? I've had it for a month or so and no problems till this

I don't know, the 500m has significantly better blacks in every respect compared to my HD CRT. I'm not sure the PQ is better overall but there's no question that the Kuro has superior blacks.

I have both my TiVo HD and Pioneer BDP-320 blu-ray player hooked-up directly to my KRP-500M via HDMI. I "think" I tried the various colorspace settings on the panel itself (what I believe are the colorspace settings you're referring to) with my TiVo, but most settings would just completely through off the color. I didn't see anything in my TiVo that I could change. I didn't try changing anything on my Pioneer blu-ray, but I don't honestly think there is a colorspace issue.

Thanks bodosom for clearing some things up for me. I guess I may have had unrealistic expectations going in, especially since I've never owned an HDTV before. Again, I don't want to say that the picture doesn't look very good (it does), it just isn't blowing my socks off the way I thought it would. Perhaps a calibration and the ISF patch will resolve this for me.

Thanks. The blacks definitely don't look gray under all conditions; in fact, they definitely look black. However, when comparing it to the bezel in daylight, the blacks seem very dull in comparison.

I mentioned this in my previous response, but I have a TiVo HD and a Pioneer BDP-320 blu-ray connected directly to the panel via HDMI. Not really sure what to check for on colorspace.

No, I haven't but if anyone has one in the SF bay area, I'll bring the beer



bob

Under bright lighting you're not going to see inky blacks on any plasma. However, they should be at least as good if not a fair amount better than your old JVC under such conditions.

But just to make sure, go into Input Settings for the appropriate HDMI port(s) and scroll through the different options to see if the blacks either improve or get worse.

Component or HDMI?


bob

How far are you willing to drive? Sacramento area, ~2 hr drive
I have a 600M calibrated by Robert Busch.