The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 15

I'm only running a ps3 through a elite reciever into HDMI 1(input 5 I think). For settings I have the PS3 on RGB Full, YPB.., Kuro on Auto. I'm using Pure mode. Most of the settings I haven't really touched. I lowered contrast from 40 to 38. Brightness is at 0, color I raised up to +10 based on my Avia Dvd. Tint is still at 0. I'm using Orbiter mode 2 and energy savings mode 2.

My PS3 is a 60gig refurb replacement from sony after my original unit died. I don't know if it matters but i'm using two different brands of HDMI cables. Going from the ps3 to the reciever is a bluejean cable and from reciever to display is a monoprice cable.

Engaging the energy saving modes adds noise in my experience, but again, you'd see it while gaming as well as with movies.

I'll take a closer look later tonight with it on and off when I get off work.

If you're using these settings for Blu-ray it could be black stretch. See post 327 and check the other PS3 info in the FAQ.

Right, those are the settings I am using. Are they incorrect? What is "black stretch?"

My 600m arrived today..! Breaking it in now and I'm wondering if I should have gotten the $6 million stand...I"m going to wall mount it on a Sanus VMPL3B and it will be over a raised, wide fireplace shelf and will only have about 6 inches clearance on the bottom..it was hard enough to access the HDMI input just having the thing standing in the box!

How do people deal with the access issue when it's wall mounted? I'm considering buying every possible cable, plugging in all the inputs and hiding the wires behind the tv on the stand in case I ever need them. (I'm not hiding the cables in the wall...it's so low to the mantle/shelf that hiding them won't be hard.

Thanks for any advice

I believe he is referring to an effect seen when a device remaps RGB(16-235) to (0-255), but that is not the case if you have the PS3's BD Video set to "Y Pb / Cb Pr / Cr". What you are describing as "noisy" may be due to the original video (1080p is very revealing), the video transfer, your noise reduction settings (which I think should be off for BD in most cases), your distance from the screen, the Sharpness setting (try -10 to -15), and possibly made more noticable by setting color at 10. Ignore Avia, and try setting color somewhere from 5-8. All plasmas use a technique called pulse-width modulation to vary intensity, so if you previously had a CRT or LCD display, this may be disconcerting at first. BTW, game graphics are not as complex as video, so that may be why you do not notice it as much there.

By the way, if you meant Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone it did get a vote in the Grain Thread. That should support the "you're seeing grain" hypothesis.

So you have set game output to RGB and movie output to YCC?

Thanks for the info. I do have the sharpness down at -15. I bump it up to about -5 for games. When I get back home in a few hours I'll try turning the color down to as suggested. (all the noise settings are currently off) Has anyone posted some recommended out of box calibration settings?


Yeah, I was talking about Harry potter. I noticed that noise/grain in Hellboy also though and isnt that supposed to be reference quality? (I literally only watched the first scene and a half though but it didn't seem as bad as harry potter)


Yes. the game output/display setting is set at "FULL" RGB as opposed to "Limited." And Bluray/dvd output is YCC.

A reference quality film can still contain grain as a reference quality film will generally look as close as possible to the original master. You'll find that it's in nearly every movie. Sometimes filmmakers that shoot digitally intentionally add grain for "effect".

If you don't care for it, there's not much that you can do short of switching on some or all of the noise reduction functions.

Does your stand include stand-offs, that lets you tilt out the panel from the bottom? If not, can you buy a new mount? I got the low profile Omnimount for $150 which does that. Tilts and is 1.5" from the wall

Okay--I'm reasonably sure that the effect that I am seeing is in fact film grain. I googled it and saw some still photos of the effect. But with motion its almost like a subtle shimering or static effect at times, does that sound about right? (Judging from the Harry potter movies which is all that I have watched so far)

It sounds like you're seeing compression artifacts to me, especially if you only notice the shimmer during movement. Again, that's a source problem and not a TV problem.

I've never seen a Harry Potter Blu-Ray so I'm not sure if those movies are particularly bad in that area.

Again, you can test this with a game as you should never see compression artifacts while playing (cutscenes and such notwithstanding).

Do I have burn-in if I turn my display off and it still appears to be on?
I only notice in a dark room

That is not burn-in, it is image rentention. The phosphors will glow for a while and then fade. It's normal.

It was the first time I even noticed because I just moved the display into a bedroom and saw it in the complete dark.

Thanks I was scared

It's normal when turning the TV off or when an input signal is no longer detected. It should fade as soon as an image appears on screen.

I'm about 85 hours into the break-in on my 500M, and while the DVD player is running completely cool, the monitor is running increasingly hot. I don't have the actual temps because I'm having the hardest time connecting the 500M to a network.
Should I be worried?

Okay, I have the tv buy bug. I'm in the military. My local post exchange has a 5020 for a little over two millenia. I've also seen an auction for the KRP-500M on that auction site for a little less w the tv stand. I guess my only problem with the 500M is the lack of inputs, the RGB bug and the lack of speakers/tuner. But I do like the picture and have no qualms in buying a monitor.

Is it worth it to get the patch? And is pure mode enabled on the set by default (so if you didn't want to get said patch or calibrated, you could still obtain a good picture)?

And are most of you using a receiver with PS3/360 or directly connecting them? I've gone through the posts, and it seems ambigous.

Can someone please answer this?

I keep hoping someone will explain the RGB bug and what RGB refers to.

If it has already been explained I must have missed it.

I see RGB mentioned on a lot of post and yet I don't even know what it is. Does it actually refer to Red, Green and Blue?

Please forgive this DUMMIE question but not knowing is driving me crazy because I feel as if I am missing something important.

Jim

Would I be able to mount a 600M to this Whalen TV Stand and included plasma Swinging Floater mount:

http://www.tvstands.com/Whalen-Furni...t-GOL1167.html

I don't want any instability issues and the room will not work for a wall mount, so maybe this might be the next best way to go. If not, then I need to get the stand.

Thanks

IMHO yes. my eyes see a signifant difference in quality and all around picture vs Pure which now appears dull or washed out. I personally think that there is a night and day difference between Pure and ISFccc Day and Night(no pun intended). I'm very happy with it and no longer even wish to have a pro cal. I also used the S&M blu ray disc.


I think most of us are most likely using an AV receiver due to the lack of inputs and also because we want 5.1 or 7.1 anyway. As I have. I also have the 111FD speakers mounted. Even though I don't use them right now they make the monitor an extra 10" wide so it appears 'huge'. I love it.

You can't go wrong with Pioneer, especially an "M" but when people see that it doesn't have a tuner or didn't come with speakers or the lack of inputs, a stand and then how much I paid they thinkn I'm crazy but they just have no appreciation for true standalone PQ.

Hi All,

I am trying to convince a friend in the USA to buy a Kuro - I hear most are now sold out except for these KRP models - Does anyone know of any good deals from an authorised dealer for the 600M? I take it there are no KRP-A models in the US with integrated tuners?

Bazzy!

You will be happy with either the 5020 or the 500m, they are both great values. No opinion on the patch at all but calibration of my panels was appreciated to say the least- yes, you could still get a phenomenal picture without either a calibration or patch IMHO.

Connection is your preference, I have always funneled through an AVR from source components and have never been dissatisfied to say the least.

RGB- Red, Green, Blue is the primary color blocks that derive all colors within your panel. These offer settings from (16-235) which is standard settings for most sources and (0-255) enhanced for some video game/computer applications that use this color setting. You can use both but most movie,video,TV settings are best served at (16-235)

The RGB bug is a simple quirk in the Input settings for the M series wherein when your source component goes from RGB standard (16-235) to RGB enanced (0-255) the M series does not have the ability to toggle this automatically, most simply recommend leaving your settings continuously at RGB standard (16-235) which does not cause any issues with a proper setting from source to source.

Haven't been on in a while- hope all the usual suspects are doing well

THANKS elite-home ........ its good to hear another voice state that opinion. I own both as well, the PQ is phenomenal indeed. Yes, I hope to have both calibrated to precise perfection one of these days - but in the meantime I am loving the Kuro as is. Many 'newbies' come to AVS for the proper info about purchasing a Kuro. The break in procedure is not required, nor is a pro calibration to enjoy these terrific display panels.

Talking about where to buy a TV is against the "rules". Marketing of any sort is not allowed. This includes the forum sponsors. The KRP FAQ notes this among other things.


The KRP-A is not available in North America.

You can find a good overview here.

If it's not listed elsewhere as being compatible with 60" Kuro panels you need to find either mounting dimensions/spacing or a compatibility chart.