The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 206

In that case you're right. Weird. My search results for KRP-500m service manual didn't show that (or anything from their website in the results). I even had done a search on their website, but I guess it's based on part number, not original model number. Since they are still selling it, then that would be the way to get it.

http://www.google.com/search?sourcei...service+manual

Haste makes waste I guess.

CeeBoogie: Do you have an authorized Pioneer servicer in your town who has experience with Pioneer's plasmas? If so, it might be worth your money to have them take a look at you set and make a determination as to what's wrong, rather than assuming anything beforehand. Who knows? Maybe it's NOT the power supply. Just a thought.

You are absolutely right, which is why I contacted them and they now have my monitor. I thought it out and decided it wasn't worth the risk in case I messed it up more than it already is. So hopefully I get my Kuro sometime next week. Watching tv is NOT the same anymore, everytime I watch anything om anything other than a Kuro the picture doesn't look right. Maybe I'm used to the black levels??? lol

Duno if US KRP500M are the same as European ones, but in case:

http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/support/ma...00M/index.html

Oligeo

If this is a response to the service manual discussion your link is the OI manual. The North American version (English, French and Spanish) of the OI manual can be downloaded from Pioneer USA.

I am looking for a pair of Pioneer speaker cables for my 500M (Pioneer part number ADF1038 and ADF1039). Pioneer wants $80 shipped. If anyone is not using theirs, has no plans to in the future, and wants to sell them, please send me a PM. Thanks.

realized i posted this in the KuroControl thread on not in here...

im not having much luck with the gamma.

got the grayscale taken care of well with this program, but i cant get my gamma anywhere higher than 1.6. taking the 9point gamma to the extreme and plugging 1 across the board still wouldnt lower the light output enough. not sure if 0 does anything but i tried that too.

the numbers certainly do something since i can see the image changing on the screen, and Y value drops some as i try to raise the gamma, but the overall gamma is still 1.6.. comes out of black too fast and the Y values increase over their goal throughout the range.

contrast set to 32 (was having blue fizzle out on me at 40, even 36.. 33 shows me the bars i need and lets the blue stay in line). Ive also had to boost blue by 20. toying with the blue setting made no appreciable difference on the Y, but the gray scale looked decent atleast. brightness at 0 (130)

Looking at the gamma patterns the gradients were all smooth at least, and the bar/gamma pattern did not show an appreciable discoloration throughout the bars.

using displaylt, warmed up for an hour on screen. re-calibrate regularly. I leave it suctioned to the screen. do you think that it raising the Y values vs suspending it? the 100% is also measured on the screen so i cant imaging it makes a big difference.

from my understanding, if at a level of 4 in the 9point gamma, if that is too low gamma/toohigh illumination, then going in the direction of 1 should reduce the light output, correct? Am I misinterpretting something? setting 1 across the board should reduce light output between 10-90 right?

Something is wrong.


I got an LT ... it was broken (likewise a stale DTP-94). Naturally I didn't discover that until I got C5 and i1 so the meters could vote the odd one out. D-Nice's settings should measure fairly well unless your panel is an extreme outlier.

Despite the expense I'd strongly suggest you get at least a new 94 although the C5 is typically considered the minimum for a plasma.

that's what I told him in the kurocontrol thread... he needs a higher end one or else just stick with one of the calibrated settings someone else has posted.

the setting contrast lower to avoid blue dipping is unusual? I could visibly notice a difference going from 80-90-100 in the images, they got redder and redder, big jump from 90-100 actually.

i'll look into the dpt-94, its reasonably priced... the c5 is going to be too much for me, at that point id be tempted to go to an i1pro but i dont think i'll see $600 worth of improvement.

Hippo Tech and ControlCal rent the i1 Pro. I've heard that some of the larger photo retailers will also rent them but I have no direct experience.

As has been said, the D2 isn't the best tool. But are you measuring with window or full screen patterns? You should always use window patterns for both gray scale and color.

Also, when setting ISF Gamma with KuroControl, 5 is the default and midpoint which is about 2.15 to 2.2 depending on other settings. Gamma 1 provides the highest Gamma (but not very flat) and 9 the lowest (@~1.6).

yep I always use windowed patterns. just didnt imagine the luminance reading could be so far off even on mid-high IREs

I would start over - reset all the RGB, CMS, and Gamma to defaults, turn off any advanced picture options, and make sure the power saving modes are off. And see what your 100% Y value is rather than focus on the contrast setting. Depending on your display, you should be able to get from 46 to 53 fL (158 to 181 cd/m2) with relatively even gamma and without clipping until ~RGB239. Decide where you want to set contrast, set black level, and then adjust the gray scale. BTW, +20 blue in the white balance just seems wrong, so again, the D2 seems suspect.

I'd strongly recommend to just swap in one of the calibrated settings already posted here, at least until you can get a higher quality meter. If you want more pop in the meantime just turn on DRE and enhancer.

i'll have that in another ISF mode... but i still want to toy around in it.

i'll try from scratch again, but i honestly saw a visibly better grayscale with blueHigh boosted up. maybe something funky going on with the settings so i'll go from scratch.

Well just be mindful of whatever calibrated settings have been posted and try to avoid getting too far out of range of those. These sets are precision equipment. Most people tweak them to be the most accurate as possible. I don't think too many people have tested them with settings that are way outside normal range to see how well they work etc.. I'd hate to see you damage the phosphors or other components by using settings well outside the intended range.

irfan, I'm having the same problem as you re: blue setting. I had to boost it to 21-23. This is also with a i1 Display (2, but it's the same meter, diff software). So it seems it's a problem with the meter. I also have a Spyder 2 and that said blue was just about fine, but reds had to be lowered like -13, so that was also suspect. At the end I'm just going with D-Nice's recommended settings until I can afford a higher-end meter.

Hello everybody,

I live in France.

I am looking for the original cardboard box or packaging used to transport the plasma screen Pioneer KRP-500M.

With all the accessories to maintain and protect the screen.

Wished price: 150 USD Included Shipping.

Thanks to answer me in private message.

Kind regards,

I've been getting a high-pitched "buzzing" noise coming from my 500m for the last several months. It gets quieter / louder, but not necessarily depending on the brightness of the scene, but seems more like when there is more contrast on the screen (ie, black with white). It doesn't really sound like the normal plasma "buzz" as it seems to be higher pitched than that and is easily audible at 6-8' with my sound system at moderate volumes.

I took the back off and the sound seems to be coming from a yellow "capacitor" (not sure if that's the correct term for this cylinder. I attached images of the part. Any ideas on if this is fixable? Would it require replacing this board? I wrote the numbers down from the board (AXY1203-A and ZSPA705IA)...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...sc00009es.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/805/dsc00012v.jpg/
For some reason the other 2 images won't show up, so there are links to them.

Thanks for any help.

That's not a capacitor its a coil. Probably part of a filtering circuit. The brown components to the left are caps, so are the black ones laying on their side in the upper left. The orange and blue "chicklet" looking components on the right of the coil(s) are also capacitors.

Yes, normally repairs are done at the board level. Pioneer suggests this part is in stock. You can also check eBay.

It's not uncommon for a power supply to develop a buzz so swapping the board may fix the problem.

first off...how old is the unit...did u purchase an ext'd warranty OR use a ccard that dbls the manf warranty ?
we are auth Pioneer sales and service...call or e us....361 857-7236 or alanl715@aol.com

Who are "we"?

Do you know how difficult of an install that is? It looks fairly straight forward. I'm no tv repairman but have experience building computers, etc...


It's 1.5 years old, no ext warranty, and I did use a MC that doubles the warranty. I assume that the "buzz" will be considered "normal" though and not covered. And, who is "we"? Google shows Corpus Christi... that's a little far from me in north texas.

In my experience that hasn't been the case where power supply noise is concerned. Don't lump it in with plasma screen buzz.

Can I ask someone with 500M/600M/101FP to view some test images for me? All images are 1920x1080 and must be viewed in native resolution at pixel-accurate mode.
1) Convergence Horizontal Lines. You must see no space between red, green and blue lines, all colored pixels must be vivid, sharp and crisp.
2) Convergence Vertical Lines. Same as above.
3) Tint Blue RGB. All colored text should be sharp. There must be no shadows of rectangles on the blue background.

Thank you in advance!

Hi guys,

I've been a member (but mostly a lurker) for a while now, and want to thank everyone for an incredible amount of knowledgeable, time-saving input on the several different displays I've owned over the years.

Now, I'm the very happy owner of one of the last NIB KRP-500M, found by happy accident at a reasonable price from an authorized Pio former installer/dealer.

I'm running the panel through the D-Nice/Evangelo break-in process at the moment, and looking forward to going to the recommended Pure Mode settings at the end of this week. Based on the brief Blu-ray playbacks I've tried thus far, this monitor is mind-boggling right out of the box, let alone when set properly, and I can't wait to re-view any number of my favorite films.

I'll eventually install ControlCal and have an ISF calibration done.

All of this babble - sorry - leading up to something I found in the user manual which has me intrigued, and for which I've found no detailed answer in the two KRP threads:

Pioneer indicates there is a 'Studio Mode' available in the Integrator Menu, which, in the somewhat fractured English used in the manual, seems to be designed to preset the KRP to television/film production standards. Has anyone tried this mode, and am I understanding correctly what it does?

Regards,
Roger

@natsnd
Can you point me to this "D-Nice/Evangelo break-in process" thread?

There are (at least) two versions of what Studio Mode does but the Integrator's Manual says: