The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 207

If you have a Kuro monitor you should read the KRP FAQ. The various D-Nice settings are in the second block of links. The relevant line has the following comment: "(D-Nice panel aging settings are in the first post.)"

@Elix:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1053444

Settings for break-in on the KRP are in the middle of the first post. Post break-in Pure mode settings are in Post #9.

@bodosom:

So Studio Mode is not really an easy way into a fixed video production mode? The quote you cite from the Integrator Manual is even more vague than the brief description Pio provide in the user manual.

Why would anyone want a color temp of 3200K as standard for any reason?

Thanks,
Roger

when the KRP-M display (showing content) is actually in the camera shot in the Studio

Thanks turbe for decoding the mysterious language in the user manual.

I guess I should've been able to figure it out, as a veteran broadcast engineering supervisor, but now it makes perfect sense.

They're just providing an answer to any and all user needs,I suppose, although where I work, the powers that be have never used Pio pro or other monitors for air or production, unfortunately...Panny pro series units all over the plant (and they are very, very good).

Regards,
Roger

@bodosom
@natsnd
Thanks! I'm still very intersted in those three test pictures. It must show if Kuros handle chroma upsampling well. Panasonics don't.

Elites (including the KRP) pass all the S&M tests (when driven with an Oppo -83) with the following issues:
The highest frequency chroma bursts fail when using YCC.
They clip below 16 and above 235 unless Dynamic Range Expansion (DRE) is enabled.
They clip green.
There are some minor cadence issues but really, who watches SD.

Specifically regarding CUE, it's not a problem although I would expect upsampling, deinterlacing and scaling to happen before the display.

I hope we're talking about the same thing...
http://screenshotcomparison.com/comparison/61281
First variant or second? And on what model?

I'm talking about CUE. Go here and search the page for Chroma Upsampling Error to see the S&M primary CUE detection pattern. Note that your "test" images may or may not reveal a CUE error somewhere in the video chain.

If you have the opportunity to purchase a purchase a Kuro monitor you should do so (assuming it's in good condition).

Thanks for the great link but still... The lines in the picture in CUE paragraph doesn't look jagged to me. Yet those test images I've posted reveal the error. There's a clean difference between horizontal and vertical convergence lines on my Panasonic PDP. I can clearly see the fall of contrast and sharpness of vertical lines here compared to horizontal. Is it the same with KURO?

We can be 'found' by PMing us. Also, by calling Pioneer cust svc and asking for the authorized servicenter in CC, Tx 78411
You've got a potential problem and I would get a claim started with the ccard company.
It is a matter of your convincing your local Pioneer warranty center to go to bat for you if the 'noise' is in that grey area between someone saying it is normal and another arguing it is a defect.

Is there any quick/easy way to copy the same settings (such as D-Nice's Pure settings) to multiple inputs and input memories? I know you can view this in KuroReader but I didn't know if you could like save the settings and then apply them to another input/memory. I seem to always have a different input resolution so it has the default settings and I would like to apply the same settings to all of my memories. Thanks!

I unplugged the KRP as a thunderstorm approached last night. A few seconds later, lightning struck somewhere on my property. After the storm passed, I plugged the KRP back in and it ran through the blue shutdown (SD) sequence (7 blinks). The strike temporarily knocked my FIOS router out, but the KRP is fine except that I could no longer connect to it via the ethernet port, even after trying all the usual reboot methods. In addition, my Sony BD player ethernet port is dead, and one cordless phone is now always "off-hook". I still have serial control, and found the subcategory code of the shutdown points to the IO board IP circuit (which makes sense). The good news is I ordered a new board for $50 and it looks easy to replace.

The weird part of this is that FIOS comes into the house over non-conductive fiber. However, I do have some COAX connections that go underground to a covered splitter outside, so the spike must have come into the system from there.

Good to hear there's good news.

Do you use a coax surge protector?

I have tried to plug the coax into my surge protector but then the cable doesn't work right. I believe the cable company tells you not to run the coax through the surge protector but it definitely makes sense to. Too bad mine doesn't work with the coax going through the surge protector. What is everyone else's experience with this?

Yes. And the FIOS ONT is grounded, its BBU has a surge protector, the TV, STB, BDP, and Router are all on surge protectors, so I would have expected (wrongly) that would prevent surges from any thing other than a direct hit on the ONT which is inside the garage. Then again, I am only speculating that the surge came through COAX, it could have been EMF somehow getting into the in-house CAT5 and POTS wiring. I didn't think it was necessary, but I may get an Ethernet surge protector for the KRP soon..

PS - Luckily all of my connected PC ethernet ports survived.

Does 9G KUROs have rising blacks? Is the new set darker than a used one?
What things should I pay attention to when buying a used 500A/500M?
Also, please see this thread if you'll have some free time. Thanks!

In the sense you probably mean there's no evidence of that.
There's no evidence of that but most people, even most Kuro monitor owners, are not in a position to make that assessment.
You should seek to understand the 500M, first point: it's not the same as a 500A.
It's helpful to actually ask the questions you're interested in. In this case why would you send YCC from a computer to a panel that accepts RGB and has a PC-mode? And if you're still concerned about CUE and you insist on sending YCC then send 4:4:4.

I have an additional question. I have a very good offer here on PDP-LX5090H in mint condition, it's like 2 times less than what I see on 500A offers (approx. 1500$). What would I loose in terms of PQ and functionality (i.e. in-built functions, CMS?). I've read the comparison thread but didn't quite get that point.

Thanks for the reply, bodosom! I've read about the differences between 500A and 500M. It's just not clear what set I'll get the chance to buy thus I used "/" slash. I coudln't care less about additional connectivity or digital tuners on 500A, my only concern is PQ which is the same for 500A/500M, I believe?

I actually asked what I was interested in. There's no way to know whether your TV actually supports 4:4:4 Full RGB or properly handles 4:4:4 YCbCr signal without practically testing it. For example, my Panasonic has unfixable black crush when I choose Full RGB as a pixel format option, and it doesn't matter what other format I choose there's always an error of 4:4:4 chroma upsampling which I described in my post. So sending 4:4:4, be it YCbCr or Limited RGB, doesn't solve anything. And I believe this problem is not CUE of which you're talking about (I've read that article).

So please, do me some good and walk through the test!

You're confused. As an example you asked about power consumption and claimed the information wasn't in the manual. See page 101 of the 101FD manual, page 105 of the 500M manual or page 108 of the 500A/P manual.

Your assumptions are essentially all incorrect. If you get a 500M feel free to ask questions about it, if you get a 500A, LX5090 or other EU model I suggest you go to AVForums in the UK where they talk about the EU models.

How could I've missed it! Even though I've read good half of the manual. I guess I expected it to be near the very end. Thanks. I guess I should write about it in another thread.

You can't use it as an example to falsify everything else I've asked, to claim that I'm confused about everything. It's not wise to say the least.

Now I can clearly see that you're biased because I'm new here. From your very first answer everything you write looks so authoritative yet you seem to lack the will to help. I realize you might have an authority here but that doesn't give you the right to bash others. It's like you single-handedly forbid me to write here.
That will be my only off-topic post here. And I'll take your advice to try other forums.

??? This is an American site where people discuss American models. If anything, bodosom is being helpful telling you you'd be better off going to a place like AVForums that deals with Euro models.

He has been helpful. However, the idea of his last messages are essentially this:

And my initial request is totally forgotten...

And the results shouldn't be different on European models.

Any one looking for speakers for the 500M? If so PM me.

I have a set of PRO-111FD speakers for cheap. Need to get rid of them.

Anyone?

Try KuroControl.

Saw Samsung PN51D8000 today and it did 4:4:4 chroma upscaling very well, unlike my Panny. http://screenshotcomparison.com/comparison/62758

And I still weren't able to find out about how 500M/600M performs in this aspect.

What are you talking about? I don't know what this is or what the screenshot comparison is supposed compare. Can someone please fill me in to what kind of benchmark we are looking at?

Thanks!

*Bump* ???


Also, I just enabled the ISF modes on my 500M and was wondering how ISF-Auto works. Does it start with ISF-Day if it is really bright and then dim down to ISF-Night based off of how much light there is? Is there any way to check what the current settings of ISF Auto are? I used KuroReader to check the settings but it just showed the initial settings I put in and didn't actually show what the numbers for the adjusted picture were (contrast, sharpness, etc..)

It's not a benchmark and it's not like anyone's looking at it except me But if you've got your 500M connected to a PC surely it wouldn't be hard for you to look at it either? http://plasmon.rghost.ru/11892731.image
All colored text should be sharp. There must be no shadows of rectangles on the blue background.

Gotcha thanks for the clarification. Unfortunately I don't have my 500M hooked up to a PC :/