The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 210

Hi guys,

Just got my second Kuro today. It's a second hand KRP-500M with under 1000 hours of play. But I got a bit of a problem with it. And it's the buzz. When I turn on the TV it's almost completely silent, but as hours pass, the buzzing becomes louder. Especialy with scenes when there is no sound, it becomes very very annoying. And I'm already playing in energy save mode 2. Anyone else with this problem?

I have a problem with my KRP-500m. I can't switch inputs, it's stuck on input 5 (direct TV). I read through the Q and A and I don't have my Kuro link enabled. Input 1 has a Wii, input 2 has a dvd. If I press input 1 or 2 the screen will go black and come on with what is hooked up on input 5. This is my first post so thanks for any info.

just curious, how is the air flow in your room? i ask because the only thing that could really change over time during the set being powered on is the amount of heat it gives off. maybe that has something to do with the buzzing. it should probably reach peak temp after an hour of viewing. place your hand gently onto the screen on top of a microfiber cloth or just place it close to the screen to judge how much heat it's giving off and compare to your other kuro, which i'm assuming doesn't have the buzzing quirk. glass does expand as it gets hotter and as i understand plasma buzzing comes from the phosphors vibrating the glass panels.

Re: the "red tint"

My local tech guy has been in contact with the Pioneer Canada service guys about the tint issue. They thought it might be an "X" or "P" board (I might have got that incorrect) but the symptoms do not really fit those board parameters.

They wanted some more information that I passed on to my tech and he will send off the links to the three threads sections here on AVS about the "problem". At least PIONEER Canada seemed to be interested in this. My guy did not say if they were actually aware of this anomaly, but I wanted to get it noted before my warranty (3 year Canada) expired in a few weeks.

If I get any more information I shall pass it on. I posted this in the KURO settings forum as well.

Cheers,
P.E.H.

Thanks Phannon. My 1 yr warranty is up so I would have to try and figure out some way to get it replaced or see how much it would be. I guess I should have bought an extended Squaretrade warranty or something but since the TV wasn't that much I figured I didn't need it and I figured Pioneer had a good rep.

Please let us know what you hear!

Even IF we had a warranty it would be hard to get them to fix this reddish black issue...it can only be seen in a very dark room and even then it is very subtle. I would love to know if there is a cheap fix though. I would think that someone at Pioneer has to be aware of this, and what is causing it. I'ver never seen a 9g Kuro in a dark room except for mine, so I really don't know what is 'normal'. One person posted on AVS posted that he has several Kuros, and they all have a slight red tinge to black.

Thanks Phannon, keep us posted. The rep I talked to had no knowledge of the issue, and was less than helpfull at resolving it. I had my A-Board replaced, no difference.

Keep us updated as I am still under warranty with Pio Canada, and there may be others awell.

I just discovered that my KRP-500M has magenta/blue "sparkles" on pictures with a mostly white background. It shows mostly in the middle of the screen at the top, and at the bottom where I can see a couple of network logo's that must be burned in to the screen. Unless the screen has a lot of white, they aren't visible. My display is just one two years old, and I just started seeing this over the past week or so.

Displaying the KURO menu reduces the white screen and the sparkles. Very odd.

I am running in PURE mode with some of the D-NICE settings.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I may have the same problem. In my case it's triggered by very specific white levels that were rare in typical content. As the level increased more and more artifacts were exposed and then nearly all of them would fade away. I sure it's not "burn-in" but I suspect a warranty repair would be denied on that basis

I may try. In the meantime I got a used replacement.

^That's commitment (a 500M backup ).

Maybe it is dithering or PWM..(just guessing..)

Not in my case.

This sounds curious to me because it reminds me of the issues people usually have when the set isn't receiving min. voltage but typically those kind of artifacts aren't isolated to white. I wonder if it's an issue at top end with the voltage being applied (ie applying enough to get a picture, but not enough to hit the right level). Seems like it would be a board issue, rather than something intrinsic to the panel but I guess you never know without having them test it proper.

I am glad the subject of white screen came up. I was checking for the artifacts and found no evidence but I did see some very minor burn in on my 500m. I use it as a computer monitor also and got lazy about using the orbiter and also using the video pattern function periodically. When looking up close at the white screen I could notice a faint Internet explorer e on the bottom of the screen where the task bar is. After several runs of the video pattern it is almost gone. I have put the orbiter back on and have the task bar on auto hide to prevent any further burn in. Lesson learned. I need to take better care of this awesome display.

Red tint update:

I just received an e-mail fro a Pioneer tech (actually from Pioneer-usa address.) He indicated he had not really heard of the problem, but he issued me a ticket number and asked a couple questions. He suggested using the wipe function to see if that made any difference. I have never used this function as I have no signs of burn-in. I was wondering if any of you guys who have this problem have used the wipe and if so, did it make any difference?

My local tech sent off the links to the forum threads here (as noted in the above thread - not much activity here recently!), so I assume the Pioneer tech referred them as well.

Do you notice the tint as being consistent? I seem to find that it seems to vary on occasion, sometimes a blank screen is definitely tinted red, especially at the bottom and a little less at the top, but sometimes it looks like it is barely visible and i have to look closely to really notice it. Does the tint seem to get worse over time or does it seem to settle in to some general level? My room has no windows, so my illumination levels are relatively consistent, especially when watching movies, so the variances I see are probably not related to more or less incident light.....maybe old eyes...sometimes it seems much more noticeable than other "similar" situations.

I will keep you updated if I get any more information. I will also post this in the Kuro settings /issues thread thread.

Cheers,
P.E.H.

Whew! I'm really happy to see that this thread is still alive and kicking, even though the Pioneers are not. I own a KRP600M which is about 2 years old. The set's 2 HDMI inputs have been ISF calibrated, but I would dearly like to view some of my Laserdiscs thru either the composite input(a direct feed from the Pioneer CLD-D704 LD player to the TV) or via component video feed thru my Elite 56TXi receiver. (Which would be best?) And I was just curious if I could copy all the pic adjustments from one of the HDMI inputs to either the composite or component inputs on the panel with any success? Any suggestions? Thanks!

I suggest using the component input. You can copy the settings to that input.

OK, but the component out is a main output of the receiver, which is connected to the panel, and not directly from the LD player. The receiver "transcodes" the S-video output from the LD player to component and then sends it to the component outs; however, I had always heard that the composite out from an LD player is more accurate, since the analog video on the disc is composite, but maybe it won't make much difference. Here's my question: is there any way to copy the settings from one input to another on the Pioneer without doing each adjustment manually? Sort of like "copying and pasting" on a computer.

It has to be demodulated somewhere and I while I have no experiece with composite input on a KRP I have used the component input (for testing). You could try demodulating in your AVR and in the KRP to see if you can tell the difference.
KuroControl should be able to do that.

I've heard of Kuro Control, but I'm not sure exactly what it is. Is it mentioned in the manual? Thanks!

It's a third party program that allows you to change settings via the KRP and Signature Elite's network control. It also allows you to enable and adjust ISF controls on the KRPs. There's a whole thread dedicated to it if you search.

That would be this thread.....


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1240606

I've been following this thread since I bought my KRP-500M a couple of years ago, but I haven't seen this discussed, sorry if somehow I missed it. When setting the HDMI input to "video", it seems that even though my source (HTPC with Win 7/Radeon 5770 card, or PS3) is outputting RGB Full, the video gets accepted as that, but then it gets downsampled to YCbCr 4:2:0 by the KRP for processing, losing some chroma resolution. This doesn't happen with the input set to PC, but of course one loses most of the color and refresh rate/PureCinema settings. See the other attached files below for PS3 examples, and the next post for other comparisons with YCbCr input.

Here are some other examples just for comparison, this time with YCbCr input.

It also seems that PC input has higher black level (not tested/visible in these pictures I posted).

Sorry I don't really understand the technical aspects of your problem, but having used PC mode for more than half of my KRP-500m's life, I can say that PC mode has better color than video mode (for computer use anyway). When I go to the Lagom LCD test page on video mode, everything gets messed up.

Have you read the KRP FAQ?

Yeah, for me it's not a big problem, cause I use that mainly as HTPC, and I don't think video is affected cause it's 4:2:0 anyway, at least for now. With the PS3 I can just switch to PC mode. But I'm not sure why I haven't seen this mentioned... has it been mentioned in detail elsewhere? At least some people have to be using this with HTPCs, and many with modern game consoles. I'd like to know if D-Nice or someone else who knows the inner workings can provide some detail on what's happening, or has done so somewhere else I can be pointed to.

Are you sending video (mpg, mov, mkv, avi, etc) or stills (jpg, png, etc.).

I read the FAQ and also I have the ISF Patch which I purchased last year from Turbe and with the ISF settings for "Night", the calibrator calibrated my Blu-Ray HDMI input on the Pioneer. The other HDMI input was calibratred using the "Pure" mode. Here's my question: It looks like to me that the Kuro Control program is a little too complicated (and, perhaps risky?), so why couldn't I just manually copy the settings for my Pure mode to the component input, or maybe use D'Nice's settings? Thanks!

Sure.