The Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion Pt. II - Page 4

The settings you changed on the PS3 were for video - The RGB stuff is in the PS3's Display settings. My advice - put the misbehaving device on it's own HDMI port and be done with it. Or is there some reason why everything needs to go through the receiver switch?

See my post above...he has everything going switched through an AVR to one HDMI input.

No, the Xbox could go straight in, but that means I got have to order another HDMI cord. I am just puzzled as to why it acting so odd.

I'll pay you 5 bucks to hook your xbox up to your pioneer and test!

About 6 bucks from a forum sponser.?

Two problems with that idea:
1. I can't touch the Xbox on the Panny because there are 3 teenagers competing for time on it, and they will attack like rabid dogs if you even look too long at the 360.
2. If they see me hook it to the KRP, they might think it's okay to use MY display for games (when I'm not home)...nooooo!

LOL! Trust me, I have the same exact fear!

Thanks for the help. Maybe my Kuro has a different version of the bug or I am going insane (this is more likely unfortunately) or my receiver is screwing with the signal

just got a 600m and was looking for settings other people are using. Found one post by elite home. Not sure if anyone else had posted settings.

I was also looking for some other user settings. I even make a new thread but on one responded. I guess everyones settings are top secret!

grow a pair...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1053444

Scroll down to the REFERENCE settings for the 500m/600m and not the 500m/600m BREAK-IN settings. FYI reference settings are in PURE mode and breakin settings are in SPORT mode. Only do the break in settings if you are breaking in the set.

If anyone is looking for an ultra slim mount for their 500m try this http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 . The mount sits at less than 3/4 of an inch from the back of your 500m to the wall. Add the 2.53inches of our 500m and thats 3.28 inches total from the front of the 500m to the wall!!!! I am just waiting for monoprice to make it available. Its made out of steel and from what monoprice told me is as strong as their other mounts. I have the black tilting mount, and it is of very high quality. My parents bought 4 new plasmas ( 2 of which are 600m) and my dad wanted to get the mounts at bestbuy. I told him I can get all 4 mounts for less at monoprice than he could get for 1 at BB. They are the best!

FYI; Im not sure if it will work for the 600m, check your max settings on the architectural drawings for the 600m.

I doubt that will work for the 600M. It's technically a VESA 900. Only a few mounts will work for this set. I learned the hard way.

Heres what I got.

http://www.peerlessmounts.com/dyn/Pr...categoryID/195


It's pretty close to the wall. I don't see it mentioned on the site but mine came with the extensions and the option to tilt or keep flat. Lots of hardware, but at a cost of $250...

I am using a Tripp-Lite ISOBAR-6DBS for my KRP-500M (396 watts) and related AV equipment (STB, DVD player, future AVR and powered subwoofer). This unit has a rugged all metal housing that offers surge protection up to 2850 joules, isolated filters to remove line noise, a circuit breaker for overload protection, and LED status lights. It protects 6 outlets (total 12 amp (1440 watts) rating), 2 coax lines and 1 phone/modem line, and offers a lifetime warranty and equipment insurance policy. The unit does not have automatic voltage regulation or back-up power capability, but does offer very capable surge protection and line noise filtering which are important factors for me. I understand that the ISOBAR units are recommended in commercial and home AV applications.

Do you have a reference to the "VESA 900" standard?

As noted in the FAQ the post-break-in settings are for the 500M.

I think there are enough Kuro threads. The 600M is close enough for copying to a 141FD which already has a dedicated thread. You might look there.

I don't think anyone feels like settings are secrets. Personally I see no point in just copying settings so I'm disinclined to post them here.

Here are the settings. Please note - these were the settings posted in the original thread that I made a copy of.

I am posting this as a favor; I did not come up with these and cannot provide answers on why and how the settings came about.

600m settings
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 39
Brightness: +1
Color: +5
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15
Color Temp: Manual
R High +4
G High 0
B High +14
R Low +1
G Low +2
B Low -3

Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema
Film Mode: Advance for 24P (Standard or Off for other signal types)
Text Optimization: Off

Intelligence: Off

Picture Detail:
DRE Picture: Off or Low (set to Low so that whites are not clipped)
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 1
Gamma: 2

Color Detail:
CTI: Off

Color Management
R -2
Y +2
G -2
C -2
B 0
M -2

Color Space: 2

Noise Reduction:
3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off

Screen Size: Full or Dot by Dot (cycle through with the screen size button on the remote - only for 1080i or 1080p signal)
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Mode 1
INPUT SETTING: RGB 16-135 (There is a error in M series 16-235 with hdmi input set to auto, it uses 0-235, which will cause the black level to be off. Try going into the hdmi setup and selecting rgb 16-235 if your black level looks off)

Break in settings:
*****Note: This procedure is designed to be performed only during the first 150 hours of the display's lifespan. This procedure is designed to ensure the reference settings listed below provide maximum satisfaction. This procedure is NOT designed nor recommended to be used solely as Image Retention and/or Burn-in prevention. Also, if a setting is not listed in the settings below, please leave it at its default value.*****

Picture:
AV Selection: Sport
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 0
Color: +50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema
Film Mode: Off
Text Optimization: Off

Intelligence: Off


Picture Detail:
DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 1
Gamma: 4


Color Detail:
Color Temp: High

CTI: Off

Color Management
R 0
Y 0
G 0
C 0
B 0
M 0

Color Space: 1


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off

Screen Size: Full
Power Save Mode: Off
Orbiter: Off

Drive Mode: 1

Hello everyone, just wanted to post and brag. Took delivery of my 600M and got it hung last night. All I can say is WOW. Straight out of the box it's amazing. Came from a calibrated 51" RPTV. Used a chief mount. I know alot of people are having issues with mounts for these displays but, this thing was so easy.

Always wanted a KURO and could never fatham spending $4G's on a 5020 when they first came out. Decided that a Panny would fit my budget, then while waiting for BB to get a 54v10 to purchase I got hooked up by a Installer that got me my KURO for the same price. That was a no brainer. I will post up some pics on the Pioneer pics thread soon.

Packaging was good, box was dated Oct/2008.

Long time lurker. Thanks to everyone that contibutes info on here. It helps soo much.

http://www.chiefmfg.com/productdetail.aspx?MountID=240

Dano

I've never used the Pioneer mount, but I find it odd that they don't even have 16" mounting holes, sounds like a terrible design. I've owned several Chief mounts both for projectors and plasmas. They are excellent quality and typically very easy to mount and use. The only drawback is the price. Depending on the room layout, you may not need an ultra-slim mount like the chief (.4").

I have two KRP-500Ms. One is mounted using this monoprice low-profile mount.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...#specification
Its slim at 1.25" from the wall. With the room layout, it really looks flush with the wall from all angles except directly from the side (where it still looks extremely thin). I honestly don't know how I would be able to connect power and cables if it were any closer to the wall. Works great and very heavy duty. Similar quality to my Chief mounts. Amazing value for $19.

My other KRP-500m is on this articulating arm mount ...
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Again, for $72, its an amazing value. Very heavy-duty construction, easy to mount, no sag at all with the 500M.

Please don't do this. If you see something useful it's appropriate to post a link which helps provide the context which is otherwise missing. It's also a problem when you post stale information (the break-in instructions have been revised -- repeatedly).

There are links to this information in the FAQ.

Link please !

Yes it is very strange that the mounting holes are not 16 inches apart. I'm thinking maybe Europe or Asia has a different standard?

He linked them in the FAQ

Here is the direct link: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post14384866

Scroll down a little bit in that Post for KRP-M

More Xbox/PS3 findings

1) PS3->YCC/FULL + Kuro->Auto = Good black level
2) PS3->YCC/FULL + Kuro->RGB 16-235 = Darkest blacks (I think its crushed though)
3) Xbox->RGB/Expanded + Kuro->RGB 16-235 = What looks to be correct black levels
4) Xbox->RGB/Expanded + Kuro->Auto = dark shade of gray

However, AVSHD reports that 3) crushes blacks badly and 4) is correct. I think the XBOX games are at fault here potentially.

You would think 1) and 4) would generate the same black level, but PS3 is noticeably darker when playing games.

Another question that I do not think was ever answered. Why does D-Nice suggest telling the PS3 to display movies in RGB instead of the native YCC format?

I'm not sure what you want a link to. The link to the FAQ itself (post 2 in this thread) is in my signature. A link to the Settings thread is in the list of "Useful places" at the top of the FAQ. A link to the 500M post-break-in settings is in the "Settings" section of the FAQ.

I think the above posters question may have been in reference to the post break in settings for the KRP 600 which from scrolling through the settings thread have never been posted?

I haven't seen them which is also noted in the same answer (in "Settings"). There's some ambiguity (at least in my mind) about whether certain KRP reference settings of interest will ever be posted there. Naturally D-Nice is the final authority.

Thanks for pointing that out. Almost makes me want to get a KRP 500 just to take advantage of D-Nice's fine work

When you fully extend your krp500m 20" on this articulating mount, does it sag? How easy is to swivel, and what is the swivel angle?

Could anyone please advise me what I should be specifically adjusting in colour management/detail settings regarding a green tint on faces (mostly in darker scenes/poorer programme material) my tv is a Pioneer KRP600A (I am in England) I think it is similar to the US Elite/pro? I have the DVD essentials discs sd pal and HD/sd ntsc and adjust everything by eye, but the guide seems vague to me about what I should be seeing through the supplied red green and blue filters I am using 'pure' with all colour management settings at zero and alternatively 'pure' with colour temp at mid-low.
The picture in general is great including colours, it's just the green tint/shadow cast that is bothering me, I didn't have it on my LX508 so think it should possible to adjust out on this set.
I will have an ISF calibration done in the future when funds allow but would love to reduce this problem in the meantime and would really appreciate any advice you could give.
mariner still is online now Report Post Edit/Delete Message

Try turn the color temp to LOW as this is preferred. However, this may introduce too much red, but should solve your green issue.