DIY subwoofer project: Stryke Audio HE 15 - Page 7  

Okay okay, I'm about convinced by the combination of this thread and TVs in the Special Guests forum which has turned into an SVS and Stryke versus the world.

I can't see how I can do better for anything near $823. And I like the fact I can finish it to fit my decor.

I have a couple of choices for amps. The Samson 700 could do give it a bash, but I also have my Fosgate 4200 4 channel amp which can be bridged and is stable to give 1 x 1000 into 4 ohms.

Should be sufficient, at least in my apartment.

Cheers

Steve

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Steve's Stuff

Steve,

fwiw, I agree with you and the other's in this forum. I'm about to jump on that diy band wagon and hope i don't screw it up. I'm hoping the experts who are offering these diy kits know what they're talking about (and the various other folks on this forum...) mass load what?

I'm definitely a HT expert wannabie, but never will be. I'll be content knowing that I did the best I could with the time and resources (sic. $$$) I could muster.

Where's John's phone number, and what kind of terminals (wire, solder, are there instructions http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/confused.gif ) do I buy?

For those experts on the Stryke - any examples (plans) of wood trim finish? Anyone ever make grill covers (I need to keep the felines from shredding drivers!)?

Thanks,

John

"Hand me another screw." - RedDavid



[This message has been edited by reddavid (edited 06-04-2001).]

>>>It will take two of the new SVS 12" woofers to equal or slightly out displace the single HE15 woofer. According to the website, the new SVS subs will be 16" diameter and stand 48" tall, so a pair of those will take up significantly more room than the single HE15 in the 22" cube

twin SVs will take up about the same amount of floor space. The CS_U model will be about 18" taller than the he15 cube.

twin (standard)20-39s/700w amp would give the he15 a serious run(imo).

I'm still putting the final tweaks on the CS_U...but I'm expecting 50-125% more clean output (compared to the standard SVs) down low.

TV

Don't worry about screwing it up. You've got plenty of help to see that you don't.

John E. Janowitz http://www.stryke.com
929 Laverne Dr.
phone: 920-217-0625
Green Bay, WI 54311
fax: 530-324-6667
ICQ 6926537
AIM: stryke23x

Since I've got six house cats, I'm working on that problem myself, as I won't let 'em wreck my $2,700 worth of drivers. But I think those waffle grid grills look ugly. Besides that, I love to look at my drivers while listening to music. I'm working on something that is see through, acousticly transparent, and will stop all cat attacks.
See http://www.mcmaster.com/ page 298 to see what I think is the answer.




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Steve Hanna
Audioaficionado

Reddavid,


I don't think you'll have a problem with cats once the sub is done. Crank the sub a couple of times and watch the cats. They usually jump and run..

http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

That is a good idea. Especially because the Carvins are decent for tactile tranducers and subs. 2000 watts mono into 4 ohms for around $550-$600 and the decent build quality of the Carvins is a solid choice. Thanks Julian... when I get some sleep, finish intern year June 30th and finish my Step 3 exam, I'll probably get around to doing just that... good idea! Maybe some other people here should consider the Carvins with decreasing the RPM of the fan. The Carvin's were made for grunge rock music played in bars and for DJ's, so the fan is on max all the time. You could make the fan absolutely quiet and provide more than sufficient cooling.

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Pictures: The Worm Hole Theater featuring the Black Hole Subs and Death Star Platform


[This message has been edited by Health Nut (edited 06-05-2001).]

Julian,
Took the words right out of my mouth. Once you fire up these subs the way there supposed to the cats will be no where to be found. they will run to the furthest part of the house!
John

So far, the cats have endured 'reference' level (0 Vol - or 90-100 db?) and fall asleep on the chair. Maybe it sedates them. Maybe they're HT afficionados. They are pedigree! Perhaps i should take them with me to audition new gear?!

Anyway, advice on wood trim configuration and/or terminals for the Stryke single kit would be helpful. I want to be able to 'plug in' any amp/config as an external source - perhaps a Sampson to start - one channel for each voice coil? does that work? how many terminals is that? part numbers/manufacturers for good quality would be nice. I'll ask John J when I call, but thought others would benfit as well.

Also, what do you recommend for 'padding'? I often see pictures of the Sub with foam or other insulation inside. How much, where, how to fasten...Note: 'stuffing' is discussed on page 2 of this thread.

Thanks,

John



[This message has been edited by reddavid (edited 06-05-2001).]

Steve H

I don't know how beefy the wire cloth you were eying was, but I buy stuff from McMaster on an almost daily basis, including some wire cloth. All the stuff ships with a pretty ragged and fairly hazardous edge,, so if you were considering something much heavier than window screen, you'll need access to metal working tools like a bar brake or something to fold over a nice edge, or need to capture it in a piece of wood trim or something. You may also need to degrease it as alot of this stuff arrives with machine oil still on it.

I heartily concur about wanting to see these drivers in action as well as hear them though. Beautiful looking.

BB

>>>So far, the cats have endured 'reference' level (0 Vol - or 90-100 db?<<<


reference level should produce peaks approaching 120dBs at the seats.


>>> ) and fall asleep on the chair. Maybe it sedates them. Maybe they're HT afficionados. They are pedigree! Perhaps i should take them with me to audition new gear?<<<


It's been discovered the felines purr...at low freqs. This seems to enhance any internal healing processes.From what I understand, there's various experiments on humans ongoing now.

house cats purr in the mid 40s, mid size(bobcats)in the mid 30s...and I think the big kittys..drop into the mid 20s.

TV

>>Thanks TV,
I'll have to get my SPL meter and check my 0 db settings and possibly recalibrate<<<

thats full peaks with uncompressed bass reproduction.

if you turned off the LFE channel, you'd get peaks around 106-108dB maximum.

And that only for a FEW dynamic peaks per DVD. More likely, 100-103dB peaks will often be noted. Also, using a RS meter may not show everything you're actually experiencing.

TV

Hey Bob,

I wish I could get boxes together as quickly as you have!

So, have you noticed any differences with the new configuration? Particularly with things not moving around at all now? On another note, I presume that you were able to realize the "rocking" that can happen at really low input frequencies with the 15.3 design? Since you really didn't change the alignment significantly, I'd be curious if you noticed much difference between the two configurations. Also, can you observe much, if any vibration or flex in the panels of the sub?

Mark Seaton

<edit - WOW 201 posts!!! we are nuts http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/biggrin.gif >

[This message has been edited by Mark Seaton (edited 06-05-2001).]

Hi, Bob!

As you already know, I'm very interested in the sub DIY project that you just completed. I was wondering how much power is required to drive the dual 15 drivers? I purchased 2-SVS 20-39's last summer and have been very happy with the performance. There has been some tracks that caused the SVS's to bottom the drivers. Have you noticed any bottoming from the HE 15's? I also wonder if next year at this time there will be something better/lower/tighter/more accurate...:? http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif

I'm also wondering if I should go with the dual 15 / quad 18 PR's or the single unit? Anyway, I'll be jumping in on this project...just not sure which one.

Rick

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The Home Theater

I am not familiar with the linguo yet. What's a BFD? I understand that it can be used to EQ a subwoofer.

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audioamateur

Thanks Bob and Tom,

I looked at Madisound just now. I saw the TD-CUP: Four heavy-duty brass screw-downs with gold binding posts on rectangular cup. For bi-amp (removable straps) or subwoofer use.

Is that the ticket? Am I going to need to solder from the inside of the cup to the driver/coil 'thingys'? or can i look into getting spade lugs and some high quality wire - as i've seen in other speaker components? what did you use?

I'm curious - so you think the HE15 with the two PR18's is "better" or more stable than with the 3 PR15's you were working with? I guess the solid back will make a good place for the terminal cup?

Sorry for the dumb questions, but it's fun to learn!


Thanks,

John

P.S. Tom - since i don't have any LFE device now, and speakers set to 'large' - I think i am seeing around 105 at 0 as you mention.

P.P.S. Bob, hmmmm, road trip to Rhode Island....thinking.

[This message has been edited by reddavid (edited 06-05-2001).]

Bob!

OMG! You are done already? Up the pics already! I am just in the process of accumulating all my part as we speak.

BTW, how do you move a 350lb box? http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif

I take it you have dolly around?


jd

RickS:

The Pmax tolerable for the He15 is 1KW/VC thus each driver theoretically can handle 2kW of power.

Reddavid,

I just spades to connect to the terminals, you can solder if you want. As for wire, just use some good OFC, I use 1--12AWG.

Thanks TV,

I'll have to get my SPL meter and check my 0 db settings and possibly recalibrate. i was just guessing.

I'll try to measure the feline db's too, but i don't think they'll like the blindfold. (I want to do this right?! Oh wait, wrong test.)


- John

I'll use the heaviest gauge wire I can. Probily go with 1x1 or 3/4x3/4 grid. I plan on forming it into convex disks and weld or bond it to a mounting ring. I'll paint it black after degreasing it.




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Steve Hanna
Audioaficionado

I've been following this project for the last couple of days, and I'm amazed about the quality of the instruction and information provided. Nice job everyone. I've been out of the loop in audio/video improvements for five or six years. So some of my questions and equipment is not current. Most is ten years old, but I'm updating now with new surround speaker system and new amps. Included, but not choosen is changing the subwoofer system/setup.

In considering this sub project, I have a few parameters that need to entered. My theater room is 12W X 35D X 7.5H. The basement theater room is made entirely of brick, walls 13" thick, ceiling 8" thick, carpeted cement floor. Main speakers are Apogee's "The Apogee" full ribbon speakers. On order are nOrh marble 9.0s for seven channels probably to be crossed over at 80 hz for movies/music etc. The Apogees will be left for two channel only or for comparison purposes with the nOrhs. I currently have two ElectroVoice professional 18" subwoofers being driven by a Crown MacroTech 1200 amp in bridged mode.

In looking at this subwoofer project, what might I be concerned with? Is the Crown up to the challenge for one or two of these subwoofers?

Will the force of the sub/s cause problems for the ribbon speakers?

Will my mortar crack, and cause the first floor to join me in the basement? There is rumored to be over a mile of steel in the floor/ceiling, between the top and bottom layers.

Performance wise, what type of comparison to the EV's be?

I can be handy, but might consider purchasing the ready made cabinets, and then finish them myself. For the person that used marble for a finish, how did you attach the marble? Mortar? Liquid nails? Any cracking or ringing?

I currently have a ancient Lexicon CP-1 processor, and would probably use it to generate the sub output. I don't recall what it's capabilities are, but enough?

There has been talk about the active driver having two connections? Does each driver require a stereo amp?

How would these speaker designs compare to products from Decware? (Decware.com). Decware also makes a driver, I believe a 10" model. They have quite a few enclosure designs, and I wonder if any of them would be comparable, or is this design just far superior to everything else?

What have I forgotten?

Thanks for the input. Dennis

There's apparently a review of an SVS sub package in "The Sensible Sound", and this thread compares the extrapolated results with the Stryke Power 15.
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/uub/...ML/039198.html

Just an FYI.

Bob -

As I am sort of following in your footsteps, I was curious exactly which Marchand setup you are going with. I'm looking at making my Aria's into 3 ways in the front (L,C and R), using the Marchand XP-59 to split the signal at 200-300 Hz and then send the amplified high pass to the existing passive XO. I can't quite afford to go full active on the whole system yet. Is Marchand doing a custom 3 channel XM9 for your front 3 as Mark Seaton mentioned they might in the other thread?

I'm hoping to integrate everything into my cabinets so I can save on high $ speaker wire and just run the preamp out to the mains and plug them into AC.

What did you end up doing for your center configuration? I'd ask about this in the other thread, but it seems everyone moved over here.

BB

Hey DIY'ers (and wannabies - like moi),

I just placed my order with John for the single HE15/2!!!

Ordered up the terminals/endcup, spikes, and grill locks from Madisound.

It's easy, its painless, it's fun! Be the first on your block.

Get those orders in NOW. John says that he's getting TONS of email, but few orders. Go on, you want it, you need it, you deserve it!

Now I have to wait...when will those boxes arrive?

Anyone have the number for a reasonably priced Crown Amp dealer?


- John

[This message has been edited by reddavid (edited 06-06-2001).]

Bob,

Sorry for the confusion. I'm only beginning to lose my mind and my hearing, so, I ordered the single driver, 2 PR enclosure setup!

If I need to do the entire Beethoven thing later, I can double my fun and use these components and a few more in the bigger enclosure. Howver, I've got a smallish setup, smallish budget, and, I'm building the system gradually over time (need the amp for the sub, wanna get 3 new speakers for the front L/C/R, etc.)

Ken, can you send me email and point me in the right direction for a Crown K amp?! I'll watch Audiogon for used in the meantime.

Thanks,

- John


[This message has been edited by reddavid (edited 06-06-2001).]

Chad K. ,bob, is ,I believe, @3 generations ahead of this now and is using eclipse aluminums....his stuff is sick!