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Official LG xxLH40 Owners Thread - Page 14

post #391 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_Mike View Post

Geo, I recreated this last night by taking the component 1 hook up and leaving the cable on connected on the device end. got the same blinking on the HDMI 1 input. The component I had going to my Camcorder, and when I disconnected the camcorder and switch the TV to HDMI I saw the flickering on/off of the screen. I disconnected the loose component cable from the back of the TV and away it went.

It seemed to only happen when I switched from component to HDMI. If I just powered the set on, all was fine. It might be simple link related, not sure. I try not to find problems these days, just fix and avoid them!! life is easier this way.

Thanks for the follow-up. Have you gotten the blinking when powering on using a component input? I was using the Component 1 input because of the sync problem. Anyway, the replacement is supposed to be delivered today. Hopefully, it will have a later build date and have the latest firmware.
post #392 of 771
Is this TV the US version of the europan 32LH5000?
As the UK LH3000 is not 100HZ and has 3 HDMI and 50,000 contrast while 50000 as 100hz, 4 HDMI and 80,000 contrast.
post #393 of 771
Hi... I use a program called tsMuxeR (aka tsMuxerGUI) to do conversions between program streams (.mpg or .mkv) and transport streams (.*ts). It can also take .mts files in and produce output for AVCHD, which should play in your blu-ray player. Conversion is fast since it doesn't have to re-encode.

For my LG TV USB I tend to use .ts output files (vanilla transport streams) which seem to work best. With my current firmware (4.05.00) MPEG2 transport streams work well, including 1920x1080, but AVC (H.264) transport streams don't work at hi-def resolutions. Only certain audio formats play properly... msg me if you have audio problems.
G


Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_Mike View Post

Question about video formats using USB

My HD camcorder puts out .MTS and I've been trying to find a way to change that format into a format/style that my blu ray BD-390 player will accept. That's proving difficult.

Windows movie maker will convert .MTS to .MWV, so I am asking if the TV will play a .MWV file via the USB ?

If not, what format should I shoot for, and what size USB drive can I hang off the end of the television?

I tried to ask this question before I bought my camcorder and didn't get any feedback, so I am slowly working through my problem. I don't want to be an expert in this... but it's looking like I can't avoid getting knee deep in the joy of video codecs and formats.

If I use the cyberlinksoftware to edit, I can output:
Video File Exporting
MPEG-2
MPEG-4
MPEG-4 AVC
WMV

Will the MPEG-4 AVC play via USB on my LGTV?
post #394 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzukij View Post

Hi
Just bought a LG 55lh41 and cant get my ps3 to display 1080p
every time i go to the ps3 display settings and check the 1080p box the screen goes blank as it doesnt recognize the 1080p capability from the tv.

i know games arent suppose to be in 1080p but the ps3 menu should and i should be able to select this display for bluray

tried 6 different hdmi: 2 from monoprice 1 from ebay, a philips one from coscto, a intec and a random brand one. No luck

the funny thing is that i can enabled 1080p 24p in video options of ps3 and when a bluray is playing i can see the info on the tv getting a 1080 24p signal( doesnt say i or P) but ps3 is still set to 1080i

anybody able to put the ps3 in 1080p display with lh40 or lh41 models ???
been searching the net for 2 days for answer or solution
about to go crazy !

thanks

I have a 55LH40 and my PS3 runs in 1080p mode on it. I have even reset the PS3 video and it auto detects 1080p mode. I am using a cheap HDMI cable ver 1.3. I believe as long as the HDMI cable is ver 1.3 that it should work.
post #395 of 771
Does anyone know if LG switched the panel type on the LH40 like they did on the LH30. Apparently they switched from LG,ISP to AUO (June 2009) which is a inferior 8 bit panel when it was previously a 10 bit. I just purchased the LH40 and want to make sure I have the 10 bit. I have gone into the service menu but can't locate the panel type.
post #396 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by niki2x View Post

I have a 55LH40 and my PS3 runs in 1080p mode on it. I have even reset the PS3 video and it auto detects 1080p mode. I am using a cheap HDMI cable ver 1.3. I believe as long as the HDMI cable is ver 1.3 that it should work.

thanks but i've tried all kind of hdmi all 1.3
my friend bought the same tv and same problem no-auto-detect and no manual 1080p possible

Did you make an update on your tv yet (firmware) ?
post #397 of 771
Geo,
I too used the component 1 input to get around the HDMI lip sync until I got my firmware fix. I never had blinking problems when I power the set on. Total, I've experiences the problem about 3 or 4 times in the several months I've had the set, and in those few times I think I diagnosed it to what I had described with duplicate inputs and/or floating inputs.

Georgie3,
Thank you for the input. I will do some experimenting this weekend and see what comes of it. I will down load ver 1.10.06 from http://www.smlabs.net/tsmuxer_en.html and convert my .MTS to .ts, put it on a USB drive and stick into my TV and see what happens.
post #398 of 771
Hi, I'm interested to hear the results. I just looked up some info on .MTS and it appears to use H.264, which has resolution limits on my TV. If your camera can record SD video then try some SD output if HD doesn't work. If HD works for you then that's an improvement in the new North American firmware (similar to improvements reported on the Euro side).

Also I'm keen to know if you had to enable movie playback through the service menus. If you did this before your firmware upgrade, and the setting still "sticks", then it would be the first confirmation on NA sets that this is possible.
thanks,
G

Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_Mike View Post

...
Georgie3,
Thank you for the input. I will do some experimenting this weekend and see what comes of it. I will down load ver 1.10.06 from http://www.smlabs.net/tsmuxer_en.html and convert my .MTS to .ts, put it on a USB drive and stick into my TV and see what happens.
post #399 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by BB_Mike View Post

Geo,
I too used the component 1 input to get around the HDMI lip sync until I got my firmware fix. I never had blinking problems when I power the set on. Total, I've experiences the problem about 3 or 4 times in the several months I've had the set, and in those few times I think I diagnosed it to what I had described with duplicate inputs and/or floating inputs.

Got the new 55LH40 yesterday. It has a July build date, so, of course, I'll have to go forward with the firmware update. Until then, I'll use the component input.
post #400 of 771
I picked up 2 of the 55LG40's a few weeks ago. One seems to have more
of a sinc lag then the other?

Is the 4.05.0 the good firm wear that is not going to have the sinc lag or
do I need to get it updated?

What Phone # do you call to have a tech come out if thats what I need?

Thanks for any info.
post #401 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaq32 View Post

I picked up 2 of the 55LG40's a few weeks ago. One seems to have more
of a sinc lag then the other?

Is the 4.05.0 the good firm wear that is not going to have the sinc lag or
do I need to get it updated?

What Phone # do you call to have a tech come out if thats what I need?

Thanks for any info.

i guess starting from 4.30.1 the sync lac stops , start by sending an email to lg support or you acn call them on 1-800-243-0000.
post #402 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdahlberg View Post

Yes, I believe they xxLH40 and xxLH50 series will be running different firmware versions. I don't know specifically what the most current firmware for the 50 series is, might be worth shooting LG an email just to be sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbmw View Post

My 42LH50 (mfr: Nov'09) was delivered a week ago, it's been said that the xxLH50 is basically a xxLH40 panel with a network connection. However, my firmware [using five '1' presses while on Menu\\Option] is 03.12.7 ...not the 4.05.0 or 4.30.1 that xxLH40 owners report here. So does this simply mean that although the panels may be 'the same', the firmware is apples vs oranges (LH40 vs LH50)? FWIW, p.68 of the xxLH50 PDF manual indicates that the firmware can be updated directly via network connection. [I've not tried that yet; I prefer to first 'learn' the LH50 as-is, not risk mucking something up with a non-reversible FW update]

I just tried the LH50's Network Software Update: it found no new update to the as-shipped ver 03.12.07 (ver number listed for "software, Netflix, Yahoo") ..but it appears to be a convenient feature (no waiting for LG tech visit to service an update?).
post #403 of 771
:Update on video over USB:

Not good I'm afraid. It looks like the firmware fix reset my movie playing ability over USB. And with the new firmware you cannot get back into the service menu. I should have asked the tech guy that did the firmware to enable this. He had some kind of fancy remote.

I plug in the USB with my .m2ts file on it and I get nothing. The only options under the USB are "picture" and "music".

I plugged the USB drive into my BD-390 (LG's blu ray player) and everything worked like a champ. Even the 5.1 audio came across. I only played a 10MB file on an 8GB thumb drive, so it was very short.

My Panasonic HD camcorder puts out .MTS, and the software that comes with it (HD Writer AE 1.0) converts it to a .m2ts and some supporting files (.cont, .iis, .tmb). Only file I moved was the .m2ts.

So I am going to stop and use this concept for a while until I grow beyond my USB drives, or I have a problem with too many or too large of a file on the drive and the BD390 player gets upset. At which point I'll find a stable media nd get into burning BR discs. I probably won't go back to streaming content until I get windows 7 and find that it works as well as the USB.
post #404 of 771
I recently purchased the 42lh40 after doing extensive research.

I had the opportunity to choose the box, so I picked serial number 911. I presume this is the new firmware because I am unable to access the hidden menu with the remote trick. Unfortunately some stations have lip sync issues so I'm clueless to what the deal is right now.

The picture is absolutely incredible and didn't require too much calibration out of the box.

I'm having issues with the trumotion though and I saw similar unanswered problems on this thread but I wanted to confirm they still exist. When the trumotion is on, there seems to be a few seconds of "smooth scrolling" and then a second of "regular blurry scrolling" on a scene, as if the trumotion feature is pulsing on and off. Has there been any solutions for this yet? Or does anyone else have this problem? I notice it heavily on Ice Age when there's a large panning landscape that goes on for 10+ seconds.

Anywho, I'm very happy with the purchase and I managed to snag it for 700 from HHgregg after some convincing, while I realize it's not the cheapest that's been out there, I think saving some money on shipping and handling since it was local got me a good deal.
post #405 of 771
Am I misunderstanding something, or does Picture Wizard only save-to Expert1, not to Expert2? IOW, if I want to try 2 different PicWiz profiles, I'd need to jot down one set of numbers and manually put them in Expert2? Also, If I've applied the Expert1 settings to a particular Input(TV), and then create a different Expert1 profile and apply it to a different Input(HDMI1), does the Input(TV) retain the previous Expert1 profile? If so, does that mean each Input can retain different Expert1 (or Expert2) settings?

Likewise, do user changes to the Standard, Natural, Cinema etc factory profiles apply only to the Input (TV vs HDMI1) in use at the time? Or does the latest change to any of those factory profiles override the previous settings across all Inputs? IOW, if I've tweaked Standard for 'TV', will a different tweak of Standard while using 'HDMI1' override the earlier Standard for 'TV' also?
post #406 of 771
From what I noticed, it's based on the input. I have TruMotion turned on for games (hdmi) and I have it off for regular television (component). When I switch between sources, the TruMotion turns on/off as I originally programmed it.
post #407 of 771
So the LG 55LH40 might be going back to the store in exchange for a Samsung LN55B640. I've had a few issues that have been bugging me in regards to image processing, specifically haloing and vertical banding. I could probably live with the banding but certainly not both, I am currently running through a few tests to see if I can't remove the haloing issue.

Does anyone else notice vertical banding or haloing? When I say haloing I am referring to "pixelated halo" that would show around someone or something that is moving across the screen.
post #408 of 771
Hey Guys,

I have firmware version 4.30.00 on 47LH40 TV that I got from frys - $799 free ship no tax. Wanted to do the Divx enable hack, but seems that pressing enters on the tv and remote no longer bring you to the servicde menu.

Does anyone know any alternative way for the newer models? Any other way to enable HD playback?

Thank you all!
post #409 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdahlberg View Post

Does anyone else notice vertical banding or haloing? When I say haloing I am referring to "pixelated halo" that would show around someone or something that is moving across the screen.

To be honest I haven't noticed either. I know that doesn't help you though.

Vertical Banding, I have not seen any of that, and the closest thing to the pixelated halo effect that you speak of would be when I had TruMotion turned on and it sometimes creates a very strange pixelated border around the object that is moving. I've only really noticed this in games though, not so much regular television. Turning TruMotion off fixes that for me at least.

Something as bad as banding though seems like you could take it to LG themselves and demand a replacement. That's a TV defect, not just something they expect us to deal with like a dead pixel or something. If you want to stick with the LG (I still love this TV) I'd say give em a call and start workin your magic!
post #410 of 771
TV: LG 47LH40 LCD. Sound: Samsung HT-WS1, PVR : TIVO Series 3 HD. Everything purchased since Nov 28, 2009.

Setup: TIVO HDMI output into TV. TV optical audio out into Samsung sound system.

Sounds great until I switch channels or go to TIVO guide or anything that interrupts audio output for several seconds; sound then turns to "hash". TV must be power-cycled, then sounds okay. Power-cycling Sound has no effect on problem.

Problem does not occur when using TV speakers. Taking same optical cable from TIVO audio out into Samsung sound system and the problem does not occur.

Looking for clues or confirmation of similar problems.
post #411 of 771
Q#1:
Intelligent Sensor: I find its auto-adjustments quite useful on any source when I just want 'decent' PQ during daylight casual viewing while doing something else in the general vicinity of the TV. But at nighttime, Intelligent Sensor is always too dark/dim/dull to be useful. Is it not working/sensing properly?

Q#2:
I find that Standard, Natural (to what?!), Sport and Vivid are quite garish/ugly/useless on most all sources or material; Cinema not so great either. Is that your experience also? [My viewing environment: 42LH40/50 is on north wall of LR/DR with several windows on south and west walls of bungalow-style ouse.]

I've been mostly using Picture Wizard results on Expert1&2 for 'serious' material (DVD via BD60), but would like a bit 'more color' during LOTR for example. I've tried some CNET/etc settings. I've also got a copy of DVE, but haven't yet mastered the 'challenge' of its cringe-worthy UI.
post #412 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbmw View Post

Q#1:
Intelligent Sensor: I find its auto-adjustments quite useful on any source when I just want 'decent' PQ during daylight casual viewing while doing something else in the general vicinity of the TV. But at nighttime, Intelligent Sensor is always too dark/dim/dull to be useful. Is it not working/sensing properly?

Q#2:
I find that Standard, Natural (to what?!), Sport and Vivid are quite garish/ugly/useless on most all sources or material; Cinema not so great either. Is that your experience also? [My viewing environment: 42LH40/50 is on north wall of LR/DR with several windows on south and west walls of bungalow-style ouse.]

I've been mostly using Picture Wizard results on Expert1&2 for 'serious' material (DVD via BD60), but would like a bit 'more color' during LOTR for example. I've tried some CNET/etc settings. I've also got a copy of DVE, but haven't yet mastered the 'challenge' of its cringe-worthy UI.

Another Minnesotan, nice!

I've found that the intelligent sensor is only slightly useful and I would only use it if light varied greatly in the room the TV is placed. I've been using a slightly modified version of what CNET had and it seems to be working properly for me (I'll post them separately). Personally, I don't think the sensor works all that great and like you said, often produces the wrong image.
post #413 of 771
These settings are for the LG xxLH50 series but seem to work for the 40 series.

-- Picture menu --
Aspect ratio: Just Size
Energy Saving: Off
Picture Mode: Expert 2
Backlight: 27
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 51
H Sharpness: 50
V Sharpness: 50
Color: 52
Tint: 0

-- Expert control menu --
Dynamic contrast: Off
Noise reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black level: Low
Real Cinema: Off
TruMotion 240Hz: Off
Color Standard: HD [grayed out]
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off
xvYCC: Auto [grayed out]
OPC: Off
Expert Pattern: Off [grayed out]
Color Filter: Off

White balance: Warm
Method: 10 point IRE
Pattern: Outer
IRE: [see below]
Luminance: 137

-- 10 point IRE calibration --
IRE: [Red, Green, Blue results, respectively, for each IRE point]
100 [2, -6, -8]
90 [8, -1, -5]
80 [15, 2, -1]
70 [17, 0, 0]
60 [13, 0, 3]
50 [13, 0, 4]
40 [11, 0, 6]
30 [15, 5, 10]
20 [9, 2, 5]
10 [7, 2, 2]

Color management system
Red color: 1
Red tint: -8
Green color: -3
Green tint: -23
Blue color: 0
Blue tint: 9
Yellow color: 0
Yellow tint: 1
Cyan color: 0
Cyan tint: 1
Magenta color: 0
Magenta tint: -1
post #414 of 771
Those are the settings on page 1-3, I'm not too happy with them in all honesty. Too dark and not enough vibrant in the color.
post #415 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdahlberg View Post

So the LG 55LH40 might be going back to the store in exchange for a Samsung LN55B640. I've had a few issues that have been bugging me in regards to image processing, specifically haloing and vertical banding. I could probably live with the banding but certainly not both, I am currently running through a few tests to see if I can't remove the haloing issue.

Does anyone else notice vertical banding or haloing? When I say haloing I am referring to "pixelated halo" that would show around someone or something that is moving across the screen.

I bought the 42lh40 almost a month ago and I think mine suffers from vertical banding. I think is minimal in fact, have done several tests and its seems to be more visible when there's an open sky shoot in movement, I can barely see a couple of thin vertical lines. However, these cant be seen that easily, I mean, I've seen videos of banding issues on Sharp Aquos panels and Its completely visible since the moment you turn the set on, something that doesnt happens with my LG LCD. In fact, the wife says she doesnt see nothing wrong with the picture! So I really dont know if this is something normal or an issue that shoud take care off....
post #416 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stamos View Post

Those are the settings on page 1-3, I'm not too happy with them in all honesty. Too dark and not enough vibrant in the color.

Hmm, they seem accurate to me I guess. I know they probably don't "pop" like one would think they should be I think there is a big difference between what's accurate and what's expected.
post #417 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdahlberg View Post

Hmm, they seem accurate to me I guess. I know they probably don't "pop" like one would think they should be I think there is a big difference between what's accurate and what's expected.

Why shouldn't they pop! It's what looks best, no?

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Check that out. That's gotta be one of the best color calibration articles I've read. Make your colors pop and look fantastic!
post #418 of 771
The TV has the 3.40.1 firmware on it.
post #419 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdahlberg View Post

I've found that the intelligent sensor is only slightly useful and I would only use it if light varied greatly in the room the TV is placed. Personally, I don't think the sensor works all that great and like you said, often produces the wrong image.

Perhaps the 'intelligent sensor' isn't. If I use the EnergySaver button to check what backlight level IntelligentSensor is using during daylight, it's always pumped up to 100%. But when daylight is gone, it's got the backlight at 25% ...I've yet to find it (sensibly) using anything in between, not even the 51% or 72% intervals. OTOH, does turning EnergySaver OFF let the LH40/50 use any backlight level 0-100%?
post #420 of 771
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbmw View Post

Perhaps the 'intelligent sensor' isn't. If I use the EnergySaver button to check what backlight level IntelligentSensor is using during daylight, it's always pumped up to 100%. But when daylight is gone, it's got the backlight at 25% ...I've yet to find it (sensibly) using anything in between, not even the 51% or 72% intervals. OTOH, does turning EnergySaver OFF let the LH40/50 use any backlight level 0-100%?

Yeah, I think turning Energy Saver OFF allows you to set the backlight 0-100. If I start watching TV during the daytime and there's a lot of light I just use the Energy Saver low/med/high/off to roughly set the TV where it needs to be, a lot quicker to change than going through the menu system to update the backlight levels.
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