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Official JTR speaker thread - Page 338

post #10111 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post

Whats the average timeframe from order to ship? I placed my order on Aug 22nd and Im getting antsy.

I suppose it depends on what you ordered and how many are ahead of you. Jeff's a one man show and they're done when they're done. Remember, a watched pot never boils smile.gif.






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post #10112 of 18704
dgage, go diy like you were planning for the subs. You should still look at the uxl. its a better driver than anything jeff uses and at least its in stock.
post #10113 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

That's my point, wouldn't it be hard to veneer the speakers yourself with 1/2" rounded edges.
Yeah it would be. Funk Audio offers solid wood in lay corners with there subs ($150 extra). That is the only way I have seen a veneer with rounded over edges.
I am pretty sure Jeff rounds the edges over on the standard finish for durability reasons. It also looks cool. cool.gif
Chris
Edited by countryWV - 9/16/13 at 11:28am
post #10114 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

Remember, a watched pot never boils smile.gif.

With my ADD, I dont even bother trying to cook. I once stared at a pot on my stove for 15 minutes and it still wasnt at the boiling point. I gave up and ordered out.

Ok, well almost 4 weeks down, guess another 4+ to go. FWIW, I only ordered basic finished 228's and the pedastals.
post #10115 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

dgage, go diy like you were planning for the subs. You should still look at the uxl. its a better driver than anything jeff uses and at least its in stock.

I have considered the UXL18s but I could never find a SQ comparison with the LMS 5400s so I guess I'll just follow the previous advice and let the water boil a little longer. I guess I'd rather wait for something and get what I really want, especially when I plan to keep it for years and years. Thanks for the advice.
post #10116 of 18704
When I told Jeff I wanted a bare cabinet to veneer, he told me he would leave the edges square.

Also, I contacted Jeff and switched my order to the sealed 212HT-LPs.

If Coach has the 212HTs, we'll soon be able to compare the sealed and ported 212s side by side.
post #10117 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post

Whats the average timeframe from order to ship? I placed my order on Aug 22nd and Im getting antsy.

I ordered mine on the 20th! Jeff initially told me Monday the 9th. I called on the 10th to get an update and he said they would be finished by the end of this week(9/20). I hope he's right, I'm gettng antsy too!
post #10118 of 18704
I waited 1-1/2 YEARS after placing my order for drivers for my DIY build...just sayin'






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Edited by Gooddoc - 9/16/13 at 1:59pm
post #10119 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post

When I told Jeff I wanted a bare cabinet to veneer, he told me he would leave the edges square.

Also, I contacted Jeff and switched my order to the sealed 212HT-LPs.

If Coach has the 212HTs, we'll soon be able to compare the sealed and ported 212s side by side.

He does.. wink.gif
post #10120 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by COACH2369 View Post

He does.. wink.gif

I would love to know the results of such a comparison... please post.. soon... !!!!!!
post #10121 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post

When I told Jeff I wanted a bare cabinet to veneer, he told me he would leave the edges square.

Also, I contacted Jeff and switched my order to the sealed 212HT-LPs.

If Coach has the 212HTs, we'll soon be able to compare the sealed and ported 212s side by side.
It will be like comparing a car that does 180 mph vs one that does 200 mph.biggrin.gif
Chris
post #10122 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by countryWV View Post


It will be like comparing a car that does 180 mph vs one that does 200 mph.biggrin.gif
Chris

So which is which? biggrin.gif

We won't be able to do the comparison until I get mine in 4-6 weeks. Coach, maybe we should start preparing for such a comparison with music choices and plans for me to come over...since my boxed speakers will be easier to move?
post #10123 of 18704
I am 100% HT....so I don't know if I would be very much help when it comes to picking out music choices for an A/B comparison..

When is your ETA on your speakers?
post #10124 of 18704
have to say, i love the way my noesis212hts sound, they seem to fit in perfectly!
using these attenuators http://www.ebay.com/itm/190749064314 to calibrate properly, will need to run an audyssey sweep when i get a chance.
post #10125 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

have to say, i love the way my noesis212hts sound, they seem to fit in perfectly!
using these attenuators http://www.ebay.com/itm/190749064314 to calibrate properly, will need to run an audyssey sweep when i get a chance.

What made you pick some of those up and what will they do to your system?
post #10126 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

have to say, i love the way my noesis212hts sound, they seem to fit in perfectly!
using these attenuators http://www.ebay.com/itm/190749064314 to calibrate properly, will need to run an audyssey sweep when i get a chance.

What are the point of these again? For audyssey calibration? Can someone help me understand the benefit?
post #10127 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

What are the point of these again? For audyssey calibration? Can someone help me understand the benefit?

It is for Audyssey or manual system calibration if targeting reference volume with Master Volume at 0. Due to the sensitivity of the JTR's, it happens sometimes that the speaker gain(or trim) must be adjusted beyond the limits of the AVR's capability - which is usually -12 to -15 dB. By attenuating the line level pre-outs to the amplifier it then brings the necessary gain adjustment within the range of the AVR. So if the gain needs to be -20 dB and a 12 dB attenuator is put in, then the gain in the AVR would only need to be set at -8dB.
post #10128 of 18704
I mean.... Couldn't one just compensate for the sensitivity by making -10 on the AVR your reference point?

Anyone look into if adding attenuation has any other effect on the signal the speaker sees?

Just seems to me like it would be in our best interest to keep the number of components in the signal chain to a minimum...
post #10129 of 18704
If you have speakers that vary widely wrt sensitivity sometimes you can't adjust the AVR enough to get them level matched.
post #10130 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I mean.... Couldn't one just compensate for the sensitivity by making -10 on the AVR your reference point?

That's what I have to do, reference is -10 on the master volume with the LRC speaker level trims at -9.5.
post #10131 of 18704
Hey guys, quick question. How far off a back wall does seating need to be to avoid unwanted boundary gain issues?
post #10132 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Hey guys, quick question. How far off a back wall does seating need to be to avoid unwanted boundary gain issues?

Not that easy, read this.
post #10133 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by COACH2369 View Post

What made you pick some of those up and what will they do to your system?

Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

What are the point of these again? For audyssey calibration? Can someone help me understand the benefit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I mean.... Couldn't one just compensate for the sensitivity by making -10 on the AVR your reference point?

Anyone look into if adding attenuation has any other effect on the signal the speaker sees?

Just seems to me like it would be in our best interest to keep the number of components in the signal chain to a minimum...

There isn't much if anything lost by the attenuators. RMK tried some and couldn't seem to tell a difference and with the inline RCA's I would expect nothing less. Yes it is additional connections, but they are sound. You could also make -10 your reference but if audyssey still sweeps and hits the breaks at -12, you are still at a loss for proper calibration (more than likely).
post #10134 of 18704
With measuring gear and a calibrated mic its no big deal to figure out the proper offset. But without that, attenuators are the only way to do it AFAIK.





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post #10135 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post

With measuring gear and a calibrated mic its no big deal to figure out the proper offset. But without that, attenuators are the only way to do it AFAIK.





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think the only problems is that for people that want to use audyssey, things get messed up with audyssey unless you have these attenuators? I'm not a big fan of audyssey, but it is simple.
post #10136 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

think the only problems is that for people that want to use audyssey, things get messed up with audyssey unless you have these attenuators? I'm not a big fan of audyssey, but it is simple.

No, not messed up. It's just that after the Audyssey calibration is complete and you see that you are at the max trim of the AVR, you then have to take an SPL reading at the MLP and determine how far off from 75 dB you are with the Master Volume at 0. Subtract that number from zero and you then have the "new" reference volume number. So for example, if the reading with the calibrated mic is 80 dB at the MLP with the Master Volume at 0, then true "reference" volume is -5 on the Master Volume knob. Easy.
post #10137 of 18704
On some AVR's you can manually set the reference number. I tried the attenuators and it made a negative difference in my system. I took them out and manually set my trim levels once done. I've personally asked Luke from Audyssey if the trim levels made any difference in the actual EQ and he said no, just to manually set them after it's done and it will be fine. I've also done almost 55 audyssey pro calibrations and using my PC and omnimic setup can confirm it makes no difference in the EQ.
post #10138 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

On some AVR's you can manually set the reference number.

Didn't know that. Do you know which manufacturers? I'm pretty sure Demon and Onkyo is not on the list.
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

I tried the attenuators and it made a negative difference in my system. I took them out and manually set my trim levels once done. I've personally asked Luke from Audyssey if the trim levels made any difference in the actual EQ and he said no, just to manually set them after it's done and it will be fine.

I assume you have one of those AVR's that can adjust reference? Unless I'm just not understanding what your saying:)
No doubt trim levels are totally independent of EQ. I've been tweaking distances with Omnimic for a long time, mostly on the sub distances that even Pro can't get right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

I've also done almost 55 audyssey pro calibrations and using my PC and omnimic setup can confirm it makes no difference in the EQ.

I've done many Pro cals myself, but not approaching 55 eek.gif. They are painfully long. Sometimes I wonder if its even worth it...then my OCD kicks in and I do it anyway biggrin.gif





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post #10139 of 18704
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

On some AVR's you can manually set the reference number. I tried the attenuators and it made a negative difference in my system. I took them out and manually set my trim levels once done. I've personally asked Luke from Audyssey if the trim levels made any difference in the actual EQ and he said no, just to manually set them after it's done and it will be fine. I've also done almost 55 audyssey pro calibrations and using my PC and omnimic setup can confirm it makes no difference in the EQ.

Thanks for clearing this up.smile.gif
post #10140 of 18704
So the 212 is considered better than the 228 as far as music goes, but does this comparison only apply to stereo listening? What about with a sub? Is it still better when the source is 5.1 music from either bluray or sacd?
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