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Official JTR speaker thread - Page 368

post #11011 of 18689
Are any of you guys considering the Sherbourn PT-7030 pre-amp that just dropped in price again on the Sherbourn site? It is now $899 w/ a 40% off future emotive purchase coupon. The coupon can sell on ebay for $250 - $300 and is transferrable. So that makes the pre-amp like $600 or $650 if you sell the coupon.

http://www.sherbourn.com/

The Emotiva coupon card can save you as much as $800 if you buy something like the XMC-1.

I'm trying to determine if the Sherbourn 7030 pre-pro would be any better than my Onkyo TX-NR1007 I'm using in the same capacity now with the PA 7-350 amp I picked up at that final sale?

I was digging the reviews I was reading on the 7030, until I came into the section where the guys started talking about how much difference there interconnects made. I don't buy into that snake oil and it threw the whole pre-amp benefits discussion into the gray for me.
post #11012 of 18689
I bought a 7030 a few weeks ago when it hit $999 and had been looking at it for a couple of months. I wanted a HT preamp that would hold me over until the 4K stuff comes out so figured this would do it. I also wanted dual HDMI out and multi-zone audio which the 7030 has. I've taken it out of the box but haven't hooked it up yet but now that I have two of my LMS 5400s and my SpeakerPower amp, I think now is as good a time as any...of course, I have to build a quick box for the LMS 5400s but that should take an evening...just have to figure out which evening.
post #11013 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Pretty sure you can lay them either way but I have both of mine horizontally as it fits my lay out better.


Stop showing off Frohlic! rolleyes.gif


...............tongue.gifbiggrin.gif
post #11014 of 18689
Does the 7030 have room correction?
post #11015 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Are any of you guys considering the Sherbourn PT-7030 pre-amp that just dropped in price again on the Sherbourn site? It is now $899 w/ a 40% off future emotive purchase coupon. The coupon can sell on ebay for $250 - $300 and is transferrable. So that makes the pre-amp like $600 or $650 if you sell the coupon.

http://www.sherbourn.com/

The Emotiva coupon card can save you as much as $800 if you buy something like the XMC-1.

I'm trying to determine if the Sherbourn 7030 pre-pro would be any better than my Onkyo TX-NR1007 I'm using in the same capacity now with the PA 7-350 amp I picked up at that final sale?

I was digging the reviews I was reading on the 7030, until I came into the section where the guys started talking about how much difference there interconnects made. I don't buy into that snake oil and it threw the whole pre-amp benefits discussion into the gray for me.

I thought about it since I got the 7350 but came to the mindset that it's not gonna do much different than what I have now (Denon 3313). It would look cool to have matching, perhaps a few better internal capacitors and interconnects (maybe not). I felt the pull briefly but let it go.
post #11016 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlittlejeans View Post

Does the 7030 have room correction?

It has a parametric EQ so you'd have to go manual.
post #11017 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

I thought about it since I got the 7350 but came to the mindset that it's not gonna do much different than what I have now (Denon 3313). It would look cool to have matching, perhaps a few better internal capacitors and interconnects (maybe not). I felt the pull briefly but let it go.

I think getting any pre-amps now may be a bit bad timing considering that hdmi 2.0 just came out.. might as well wait for the next generations of products that incorporate hdmi 2.0.
post #11018 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Are any of you guys considering the Sherbourn PT-7030 pre-amp that just dropped in price again on the Sherbourn site? It is now $899 w/ a 40% off future emotive purchase coupon. The coupon can sell on ebay for $250 - $300 and is transferrable. So that makes the pre-amp like $600 or $650 if you sell the coupon.

http://www.sherbourn.com/

The Emotiva coupon card can save you as much as $800 if you buy something like the XMC-1.

I'm trying to determine if the Sherbourn 7030 pre-pro would be any better than my Onkyo TX-NR1007 I'm using in the same capacity now with the PA 7-350 amp I picked up at that final sale?

I was digging the reviews I was reading on the 7030, until I came into the section where the guys started talking about how much difference there interconnects made. I don't buy into that snake oil and it threw the whole pre-amp benefits discussion into the gray for me.
For the price its an excellent deal. The XLR connections to the amp are a big bonus too. I have read a 3db gain can be had by switching from RCA connections to XLR but that may be BS. As far as the review goes maybe the guy had some sorryass RCA cables and swithched to the Emo interconnects. This would account for the difference.
The Onkyo 1007 is nice so if you can sell it or have another use for it the 7030 is a hell of a deal.smile.gif I would like to see how well their Room correction works (parametric EQ). It sounds pretty interesting.
Chris
post #11019 of 18689
Ok, here goes... trying to figure everything out means I'll have to ask a lot of dumb questions...

Does anyone know what's the difference between speakers (pro ones) that have speakon connectors and speakers with balanced inputs?

The reason I asked is because I was going to buy a pro mid bass speaker, but it seems to have a speakon connector. What does this mean? Can i use my clone amp to hook up to it? I think the clone has 'balanced out'... so, basically, i am thinking from my onkyo receiver using rca-balanced to the clone amp, and then the clone amp, how to get to the speaker? And would i still be able to control the volume from my receiver then?

Oh, and what if i output from the sub-out from my receiver?
post #11020 of 18689
Oh, just yesterday, I had a friend who came over to audition the Noesis. He used to serve in the US military and was actually in the first iraq war... so, he's a pretty tough guy... and when i put the 'Imax Intro', he literally jumped back a feet...

Puts a huge smile on my face...
post #11021 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Not yet.. i was at their factory.. ordered the 10,000 version cause that would give me 4 channels of 2000KW each, perfect for the LCR.

They also had (their companion company) a mid bass speaker that comes with dual 18 inch drivers that sounded decent.. i might get one of those for that 4th channel on the amp... maybe give my mid bass a boost...

Not sure yet how to configure everything when they get here though... lots of different types of connectors/wires i'll need.. considering the amps are all balanced inputs, and my receiver is rcas... basically this is prob what i'll need (chime in if i am wrong)... rca to xlr from receiver to the fp10,000, t hen from the fp10,000 to the speakers, xlr to rca???

I missed this post. Been so busy it has been hard to keep up. I was also thinking about what I might do with the fourth channel if I get the LG, I had the same thought. what are you running your mains on right now? btw from the LG to the speakers will be speaker wire... correct??
post #11022 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

I missed this post. Been so busy it has been hard to keep up. I was also thinking about what I might do with the fourth channel if I get the LG, I had the same thought. what are you running your mains on right now? btw from the LG to the speakers will be speaker wire... correct??

If I am not mistaken, the 10000 clone only has balanced out to speakers... I was wondering how to connect it to a speaker if it only has 'Banana Plugs, or if it has Speakon connectors?' Some subs like JBLs have speakons..
post #11023 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

If I am not mistaken, the 10000 clone only has balanced out to speakers... I was wondering how to connect it to a speaker if it only has 'Banana Plugs, or if it has Speakon connectors?' Some subs like JBLs have speakons..

put speakon heads onto the wire, pretty easy to do!

no such thing as balanced out to speakers, although the amps only have XLR in, which can be seen as balanced in.
post #11024 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

put speakon heads onto the wire, pretty easy to do!

no such thing as balanced out to speakers, although the amps only have XLR in, which can be seen as balanced in.

Thanks...
post #11025 of 18689
Ya speakon's are as easy to use as bananas. Open up the casing, screw in your 2 wires and done. I use speakons for my amps.
post #11026 of 18689
^ thanks

Quick question for folks who built their own MULTIPLE subs... can the 2242H be used for extension to 20hz if you used multiple drivers?
post #11027 of 18689
Hey JLpowell84 my ht has paneling also was it hard getting the sound set-up with it in the room? I helped mine alot with room treatments, I wish sometimes it was gone! I built the room for a day-care center but cancelled that idea thank god!!
post #11028 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Ok, here goes... trying to figure everything out means I'll have to ask a lot of dumb questions...

Does anyone know what's the difference between speakers (pro ones) that have speakon connectors and speakers with balanced inputs?

The reason I asked is because I was going to buy a pro mid bass speaker, but it seems to have a speakon connector. What does this mean? Can i use my clone amp to hook up to it? I think the clone has 'balanced out'... so, basically, i am thinking from my onkyo receiver using rca-balanced to the clone amp, and then the clone amp, how to get to the speaker? And would i still be able to control the volume from my receiver then?

Oh, and what if i output from the sub-out from my receiver?

speakons come in two and four pole connectors. you can use either one but I personally think the 4 pole connectors are better quality and easier to work with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

^ thanks

Quick question for folks who built their own MULTIPLE subs... can the 2242H be used for extension to 20hz if you used multiple drivers?

20hz wouldn't be impossible but they are essentially the best to run in the midbass region, with the nod going to higher excursion HT type subs to take of the low end.
post #11029 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

speakons come in two and four pole connectors. you can use either one but I personally think the 4 pole connectors are better quality and easier to work with.
20hz wouldn't be impossible but they are essentially the best to run in the midbass region, with the nod going to higher excursion HT type subs to take of the low end.

So, let's say I want to build both mid bass units and also low bass units.. what sort of drivers would you recommend that would not break the bank?

I looked at 18sounds, which are relatively cheap compared to JBLs.. but i think they only have the mid bass type.. they have 21 inchers for mid bass as well,--- might be killers...
post #11030 of 18689
Anyone knows what compression drivers the Noesis uses? What are their frequencies? I was wondering if the entire 'human voice' range is output within the compression driver itself.. they sound so lifelike...
post #11031 of 18689
yea, 18 sounds makes some good drivers, the JBL's are top quality, and my personal fave would have to be the AE td18, but those are muchas moolahs as well $$$$. The midbass "type" as you referred to it are just the "pro style" speakers where they have the accordian surround instead of a high roll surround. The pro style drivers, while good to 20hz in the proper box are mega efficient and won't need a ton of power to go loud in an HT environment. The "HT style" speakers will take more power, but will have more excursion. The Stereo Integrity 18HT is a wonderful driver that I have absolutely loved so far in my theater. Getting a pro midbass unit to play well together with a low-end sub, AND your mains is tricky, but not impossible. I would suggest focusing on doing both the midbass modules, and the low end subs in sealed alignments as it will cut down on the headaches and make overall integration a little easier. Really, you can make just about any midbass driver work, but I think you are headed in the right direction by considering the 18 sounds ones, JBL, and AE. None of those would be a bad choice.
post #11032 of 18689
Boy. You learn something every day. Now I know the difference between pro subs n ht subs. I thought they were mid bass n low bass. Silly me. Thanks beastaudio.
post #11033 of 18689
Quick question in level setting using a Radio Shack SPL meter - for high efficiency speakers such as JTR's, does it make a difference if it is set at 75dB or 85dB? I wouldn't think so but wanted to check. Any feedback?
post #11034 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Ya speakon's are as easy to use as bananas. Open up the casing, screw in your 2 wires and done. I use speakons for my amps.

Is that the connection the Submersive uses for the power plug? Mine is slightly showing the internal wires. Either way if it unscrews I can fix it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dholmes54 View Post

Hey JLpowell84 my ht has paneling also was it hard getting the sound set-up with it in the room? I helped mine alot with room treatments, I wish sometimes it was gone! I built the room for a day-care center but cancelled that idea thank god!!

Yea it's a rental my fiancé and I just landed. We certainly wouldn't choose that for interior if we owned but we can't complain for the price we are getting! But I plan to cover as much are as possible with acoustic paneling. Black most likely. Hey beast if you read this you think I should go the 4 inch (GIK 244's$ all around? I do like those AST panels that have the nice suede finish. I will take a look at my room and decide what I need. Probably a couple bass traps in the two 90 degree corners in my room.

I have another 550 left from selling my old gear so I will put that to a few panels. Might actually make my own to save, just buy the finish I like
Edited by jlpowell84 - 10/5/13 at 10:51am
post #11035 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Anyone knows what compression drivers the Noesis uses? What are their frequencies? I was wondering if the entire 'human voice' range is output within the compression driver itself.. they sound so lifelike...

Have a look at posts here, here and here.

The BMS coax plays down to 400Hz in the Noesis 212. You can see how much of the male and female vocal range (and many instruments) are picked up by the coax here.
post #11036 of 18689
Looks like they cover most of female vocals. I guess that's why I am so in love with listening to female singers
post #11037 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by kma100 View Post

Quick question in level setting using a Radio Shack SPL meter - for high efficiency speakers such as JTR's, does it make a difference if it is set at 75dB or 85dB? I wouldn't think so but wanted to check. Any feedback?

The sensitivity of the speakers isn't the consideration. It depends on the amplitude of your pink noise test signal. For reference calibration, -20dBFS noise should be set at 85dBSPL (C weighted, slow setting); or -30dBFS noise should be set at 75dBSPL (C, slow).

Can I ask why you need to do this? The auto-setup routine on your AVR/processor (e.g. Audyssey) should do a perfectly reasonable job of setting level trims.
post #11038 of 18689
I finally ran Audessey after integrating my new Sherbourn 7-350 into my system. I am pleased to report that it set my front channel levels 2.5 dbs higher than my XPA-5 did.
So maybe it does have a gain of 29db.

I now have a hiss coming from my JTRs, audible 4 or 5 feet away when I turn the amp on. I didn't have this with the Emo amp.
I use quality Blue Jean RCA interconnects between my Denon 3312 and Sherbourn amp. Is it possible/likely that XLR cable interconnects would reduce this noise?

Yesterday I had my system wound up, I watched Jurassic Park 3D at near reference, wow! And listened to The Doors, Roadhouse Blues is incredible at
reference level on the 228s ( and the Seaton sub ain't bad either). For any prospective Noesis owners out there, if you want dynamic, clean sound, without a hint of harsh treble....
buy them.
post #11039 of 18689
First thing I would check is a ground loop issue causing noise. You can get these at any hardware store.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Wholesale-Prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM

If this fixes your issue than we can discuss addressing it so you can remove the "cheater" plug and by we, I mean those that have run into this issue before as I haven't.
post #11040 of 18689
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIEGAR View Post

The sensitivity of the speakers isn't the consideration. It depends on the amplitude of your pink noise test signal. For reference calibration, -20dBFS noise should be set at 85dBSPL (C weighted, slow setting); or -30dBFS noise should be set at 75dBSPL (C, slow).

Can I ask why you need to do this? The auto-setup routine on your AVR/processor (e.g. Audyssey) should do a perfectly reasonable job of setting level trims.

I wanted to see if I liked the sound just with level setting using pink noise (assume that is the "hiss" from the speakers as part of the setup process) and then setting the volume so L and R (and sub) show 75dB ob the RS meter. Next step is to run Audyssey xt32 from the receiver. I recall reading some people had issues with what Audyssey did for higher efficiency speakers. Hope that helps.
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