Official JTR speaker thread - Page 53

Originally Posted by mjg100

I did remember that you had the 12's. , but I was thinking they were LF's. I am an engineer and I even went back and checked my speakers again to double check myself.

Originally Posted by orcarola25

Anyone get tracking numbers on their T12s yet???

The first 2010 Triple 8's were 12.75" deep but were measuring down to 81hz so I made them a 1/2" deep to get them to 80hz. Not an auditable difference.

Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian

The website is current. The Triple 8HT (MDF) is 26" tall, 12.25" wide, 14" deep and 75lbs.

The first batch of 2010 Triple 8's (baltic birch) were 12.75" deep but were measuring to 81hz so I added a the 1/2" of depth to get to 80hz. Not an auditable difference.

The 2009 Triple 12HT/LF was 16.5" deep and the 2010 Triple 12HT is 14" deep.

On my short list of stuff to do is to put together an archive.

Originally Posted by RMK!

Humm, Ross bought them used so I wonder who the original owner was? Jeff is going to have to start using serial numbers .

Originally Posted by dave98svt

Got my two 2010 T-12's today. Only listened for a couple minutes so far, but so far they are MUCH louder than my Salk HT2-TL's. I am pushing them with a 550 wpc icepower amp. They sound pretty good so far, they don't extend very low, definitely need sub's. I am using 2 MFW-15's and a MBM-12. I am really pushing them and im not sure they can hang with the T-12's. I have only listened to music so far. I am not quite used to them, but they don't sound as "refined" as the salks, but thats what i expected. They seem a little more "harsh", but so far it hasn't been too bad. My room is not treated, so I am sure that causes some problems. I think I will try watching a movie now and see how they do.

Originally Posted by kutlow

I am thinking very hard at ordering triple 12's for LCR. Currently I have the Klipsch RF-83 for front left and front right and the Klipsch RC-64 for the center channel. Link to the manufacturer below.

http://www.klipsch.com/na-en/product...stem-overview/

Wanted to ask how much better these Triple 12's would sound in home theater. I am using the Dennon 4308CI AVR which only has 140 watts per channel. Im guessing I would need more power as well right? I currently have dual Danley DTS-10'S for subs powered by a crest pro 9200 amp. Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by kutlow

I am thinking very hard at ordering triple 12's for LCR. Currently I have the Klipsch RF-83 for front left and front right and the Klipsch RC-64 for the center channel. Link to the manufacturer below.

http://www.klipsch.com/na-en/product...stem-overview/

Wanted to ask how much better these Triple 12's would sound in home theater. I am using the Dennon 4308CI AVR which only has 140 watts per channel. Im guessing I would need more power as well right? I currently have dual Danley DTS-10'S for subs powered by a crest pro 9200 amp. Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by Mathelo

Kutlow,

I have Q8s for LCR and T8s for Wides. I also have the S8s for surround duty (not yet installed). I'm in the process of assembling my dual DTS-10's. I hope to have them running this next weekend.

I'm expecting that the T12s or Q8s will integrate very nicely with the Q8s. They have plenty of dynamics and midbass impact, at least by my ears. We watched HurtLocker last weekend and even without subwoofers they really hit hard. I can't wait to feel this movie again with the subs installed. We sit relatively close at 10 ft.

I would get a separate amp for the headroom even though these speakers are very efficient but of course you should try first and see for yourself. I also have the Denon 4308CI and I elected from the get go to drive the fronts with an outboard amp and use the internal amps for surround duty and remote locations. I'm completing a full 11.1 setup with a second zone so the additional channels get used.

Hope that helps.

Louis

Originally Posted by Mathelo

Kutlow,

I have Q8s for LCR and T8s for Wides. I also have the S8s for surround duty (not yet installed). I'm in the process of assembling my dual DTS-10's. I hope to have them running this next weekend.

I'm expecting that the T12s or Q8s will integrate very nicely with the Q8s. They have plenty of dynamics and midbass impact, at least by my ears. We watched HurtLocker last weekend and even without subwoofers they really hit hard. I can't wait to feel this movie again with the subs installed. We sit relatively close at 10 ft.

I would get a separate amp for the headroom even though these speakers are very efficient but of course you should try first and see for yourself. I also have the Denon 4308CI and I elected from the get go to drive the fronts with an outboard amp and use the internal amps for surround duty and remote locations. I'm completing a full 11.1 setup with a second zone so the additional channels get used.

Hope that helps.

Louis

Originally Posted by goonstopher

I would LOVE to see the xmass on the custom woofer in the captivator.

My hum problem might end up being fatal to my attempt at captivator bass bliss (I have one or two final prayers before I have to throw in the towel - DAMN old house wiring!) but this situation has given me a chance to see how the woofer moves and boy does it move. I am coming from an epik dynasty which had an 18" woofer with a very different behavior profile so I have not seen a woofer that gets this kind of throw. IMO a woofer with more throw seems to give more visceral/mid bass impact which I like. Very impressive design for a 12" woofer.

Originally Posted by goonstopher

Thank you.

I will take your advice - FYI I have tried a lot.

Removed EVERY electrical device on 2 floors of the house. Replaced every AV wire. Tried different wires in every spot I can think of. Bought a power conditioner. Tried different combos of things on the same or different outlets.

The one consistent has been the receiver being in the loop at some junction but this avr has been used with no less that 5-6 subs and an ep2500 (different unit but I have tried an ep2500 and an ep4000 now)

I will let the experts over there try to help because I really want to make these subs work for me but if they don't have a solution the old house wiring might win (and someone near NJ might get a killer sub)

Originally Posted by goonstopher

Thank you.

I will take your advice - FYI I have tried a lot.

Removed EVERY electrical device on 2 floors of the house. Replaced every AV wire. Tried different wires in every spot I can think of. Bought a power conditioner. Tried different combos of things on the same or different outlets.

The one consistent has been the receiver being in the loop at some junction but this avr has been used with no less that 5-6 subs and an ep2500 (different unit but I have tried an ep2500 and an ep4000 now)

I will let the experts over there try to help because I really want to make these subs work for me but if they don't have a solution the old house wiring might win (and someone near NJ might get a killer sub)

Originally Posted by kutlow

First congratulations on the dual dts-10's. One little tidbit on the build is to get one almost finished before you put the last panel (P) and have it next to the second one your building. It makes cheating very easy when your not sure how some of the boards go. Also make sure you use spray adheasive and staples on the foam pieces. If not they will flap later.

Can you provide a link to the outboard amp that you use with the 4308CI? How do you hook it up to the 4308CI?

Originally Posted by cdy2179

If the conditioner didn't work it's probably in your ground... cheaper conditioners only just have filters and don't work that well.. but if you tried a really nice conditioner it takes the hot and neutral and converts it to DC using a rectifier and converts it back to AC using an inverter... this is how the more expensive ones do it... the Cheaper ones aren't real conditioners they just try to filter out some of the noise. Even in the actual "real" conditioners the ground is fed straight through untouched so if the problem is with the ground the conditioner won't help at all.

Have you tried (temporarily) taking an old spare cord and removing the ground or using a cheater plug? If it still does it i'd check the conditioner as that should have fixed it or it could be in the amp. I'm assuming it hums even with the signal input (RCA cable) unplugged. If it's in the ground you can always install a dedicated ground just for that outlet... shouldn't cost much but make sure it's up to code.

Originally Posted by goonstopher

I have a cheater plug on sub amp. The avr, as-eq1, reckhorn and s-converter do not have ground plugs (and I have tried taking them out of the loop one by one except for the receiver). Also the outlet they are connected into does not have a ground plug attached to it.

It only has the white noise when a signal is coming through the AVR - I.E. if it is muted then it stops but if there is nothing coming out (paused movie, cable station I don't have) but not muted then it still comes out. I have changed EVERYTHING even amps.

I tried disconnecting every coax cable on the same circuit as well as mine. Weird thing is the white noise goes on even without the coax in BUT when I watch cable tv I also get an additional thump added in when I change channels and the next channel registers or handshakes through the avr.

Since I have tried so much the ONLY consistent components were the sub and the receiver, everything else in the entire system and house has been disconnected at some point and tested.

From the coax thump and the non-coax dependent, constant white noise, I have 2 problems to deal.

Originally Posted by goonstopher

Conditioner is a cheap $60 furman one that jeff sent me a link for. I don't think he was giving a real solid recommendation but rather just giving me a cheap option.

Would an expensive power filter solution fix this?

I found a 3rd circuit and tried that one too. Can something on another meter in another circuit box in the same house interact with my equipment? Someone did move into another part of the house on another meter and box and he has a good amount of electronics.

Originally Posted by goonstopher

Hey John,

I don't think it is the cable because I still have it when I disconnect my cable from the box and unplug the box.

Can it still be the cable?

EDIT: Also worth knowing, there IS a nasty hum on top of the white noise but the main nasty hum goes away with a cheater plug

Originally Posted by goonstopher

Hey John,

I don't think it is the cable because I still have it when I disconnect my cable from the box and unplug the box.

Can it still be the cable?

EDIT: Also worth knowing, there IS a nasty hum on top of the white noise but the main nasty hum goes away with a cheater plug