Official JTR speaker thread - Page 135

Originally Posted by Tedd

The Catalysts are tremendous speakers. But they are in a whole different price ball park. They would be my speakers of choice if they would fit in my room. I went with T8's and think they punch well above their "price point" weight and offer exceptional value.

Originally Posted by Blackdevil77


Actually, why don't you ask him! I'm sure Nuance would love for him to come and bring the Cats there as well!

Originally Posted by ehoeft

Maybe finally end the debate between hifi and high efficiency (HT) speakers.

Originally Posted by cmryan821

Just an innocent typo. Here's the accurate info from jtr's forum.

Edit: Sorry, I didn't notice your second question. You'll need a cable like this one.

Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian

The reason for all the speaker debates is personal preference. There will never be one speaker that everyone prefers. People are sensitive to different facets of sound. My priority is intelligibility (clarity, detail), neutral and natural voicing, affinities on smooth frequency response though the vocal range and high output. It's not an easy task accomplishing this.

Time coherency is major attribute to a speaker's intelligibility (clarity, detail). For the best time coherency all the drivers and vents need to be as close each other and as close to equal distance to the listener as possible.

Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian

A good off axis transition between drivers is critical to sound quality. There was over a year of development that went into the Triples before they were introduced. The 2007-2010 used a crossover point up where the midrange’s directivity coincided with the horn’s. The 2011-newer uses a CD that can be crossed over much lower in frequency and is now crossed over down where the horn losses directivity. Both methods provide a good off axis transition however the lower crossover point being favorable in listening tests.

The 2009 and previous, I did prefer the Triple 8’s midrange however after the complete redesign of 2010 they became really close and the newest 2012, with lower crossover point, I can’t choose.

The Triple’s midrange’s cone is the wave guide for the CD and the larger cone of the Triple 12 is a better wave guide. The piece that I designed so that I could remove the dust cover from the 12” midrange will not work on the 8” midrange.

Sealed vs vented Triples, vented does have much more midbass output capability however depending on installation they could have too much midbass before calibration (room correction). Extra midbass can be preferred for music however does reduce speech intelligibility (movies). Calibration will level the midbass which maybe a reason why some people prefer different setting for movies vs music.

Originally Posted by coolgeek

Jeff, between the t8 and t2, which one has more clarity? I know someone said that the t8 seems to have more clarity after comparing them, however, the t12 has more mid bass.

Originally Posted by Crabalocker

to add to this........which would be better for a home theater application?

Originally Posted by coolgeek

Jeff, between the t8 and t2, which one has more clarity? I know someone said that the t8 seems to have more clarity after comparing them, however, the t12 has more mid bass.

Originally Posted by Crabalocker

to add to this........which would be better for a home theater application?

Originally Posted by RMK!

The new crossovers for my Triple-12HT's (LCR) will arrive today and I will be changing them out tomorrow. Will try and take some pics during the change process and post comments about any sonic differences.

Originally Posted by RMK!

The new crossovers for my Triple-12HT's (LCR) will arrive today and I will be changing them out tomorrow. Will try and take some pics during the change process and post comments about any sonic differences.

Originally Posted by KevinH

I got mine last week and started the process..........got the old crossovers out and had to rewire some of the disconnects because the new crossovers have different wiring than my early 2010 T8s. Turns out I had the wrong crossovers(too big and would not fit)so waiting on the new ones. The hardest part for me was rewiring the disconnects....specifically getting the old crimped disconnects off. Once that was done, crimping on the new ones is pretty easy. I think N8 is speaking of pulling the disconnects off of the crossover connects/tabs. I fortunately didn't have any problems. Some tips.......try to grab the disconnect itself and not the wire. Gently wiggle back and forth will pulling up. To much side to side or force and the crossover tabs can bend. Once they bend they get weak and can break off...like a soda can tab. I went ahead and pulled out the bottom acoustic cotton just to have more room and see better. I'll put that back in with a little spray adhesive before screwing in the new crossovers.

Originally Posted by RMK!

I am having the same issue with my Triple 12's. I have the 2010 MDF cabinets and the bracing is different than the current BB plywood cabs so the new crossovers do not fit in the allowable space. Sorry but I didn't take any pics as I was humping these heavy things alone and got caught up in the problem solving of the board not fitting issue. I'm working with Jeff on a solution.

The upside is they sound great as they are. Watched Girl With the Dragon Tattoo last night (very good film) and was wondering why I'm even bothering with the "upgrade". Looking for another couple of percentage points of clarity I suppose ...

Originally Posted by MKtheater

I hope you were alone when you were humping those things

I had to, could not resist!

Originally Posted by djkiwi

Hi Guys, thanks for the very interesting thread. There are some very knowledgeable people here. I'd appreciate some guidance on a current dilemma I'm grappling with:

My theater room right now has TAD fronts ie TAD 4001 drivers and horns and 1601C bass drivers (see pictures). I alternate between the stock TAD TN 2 passive crossover and a active 24db marchand which allows the TAD horn to run fullrange at 110db. I have multiple amps but generally use a pair of Crown K1s bridged on each TAD woofer and single ended triodes on the horn or First Watt Amps.

I also had a Tannoy DMT15 as a center and Tannoy DMT 12 mks2 as sides and rears. The Velodyne DDR18 is gone so looking for another sub as well. The feedback on the submersive looks very good so that is on my shortlist. All the Tannoys are gone but I do miss the Tannoy DMT 15 as a center.

The room is now treated with 16 6x2 echobuster absorption and diffusion panels.

Due to their huge size of the TAD I've been thinking of moving them to another room and getting some catalysts or JTRs as a room friendly alternative.

I tried the M&K s150 THX speakers and they were not what I was looking for at all. A tiny box sound and no match for the TADS in any area. I also heard the Klipsch KL 650s and although they had better dynamics than the M&K they were unrefined on music and movies and all over the place. Quite fatiguing.

Frankly these supposed home theater legends were pretty disappointing. The TAD can play at huge undistorted levels without any reduction in sound quality that the M&K and Klipsch could only dream about. They also play all types of music exceptionally well.

Part of the problem is I prefer a hard hitting 15 inch driver punching from about 300 hertz down. These little drivers of 8 or 6 inches just can't cut it in upper bass dynamics. When you hear the TAD 1601s punching from 300 hertz down the impact is incredible. We tried the famous master and commander scene and the little drivers sounded very strained and fatiguing without impact. Also with my Call of Duty game the upper bass explosions did not sound real.

With the TADS I had the velodyne sliding in at around 35 hertz. Even the Klipsch KL650 sounded flat with Velodyne coming in at 80 hertz.

So the options I'm considering at the moment and would appreciate some input are as follows:

1. Forget about room looks and build a center TAD the same as my main speakers. I can raise the screen and build the bass cabinet wider and lower to accommodate the center. The problem is it may be a little close to the mains.

2. Buy some JTR or Catalyst speakers. The question is can either of these speakers equal the TADS? Is the sound refined or ragged? How hard do they punch from 300 hertz down? I've read good things about these speakers but have never really heard them compared against anything really good.

3. In respect of rears and side speakers. The JTR slanted speakers look pretty good and would match the efficiency of the TAD when crossed over passively. I wanted to put them up on the wall which I couldn't do with the Tannoy DMT12s as they were too big and heavy.

Would these JTRs be a good match for the TAD? I was thinking of the Klipsch KS speakers but given the poor performance of the KL 650s I'm not too sure about those now.

Thanks in advance
DJ

Originally Posted by bhazard

i'm thinking jeff and mark should make a limited edition collaboration speaker or sub. How awesome would that be? Craft breweries team up and make collaboration brews all the time, why can't craft speaker designers?

Just imagine both of their input into one design. They could each sell a version within their own companies, just like how the subaru brz and scion fr-s were both collaborations between toyota and subaru.

Instead of royalties on the idea, i'd just take a free set of the speakers as a thank you. :d

Originally Posted by djkiwi

Hi Guys, thanks for the very interesting thread. There are some very knowledgeable people here. I'd appreciate some guidance on a current dilemma I'm grappling with:

My theater room right now has TAD fronts ie TAD 4001 drivers and horns and 1601C bass drivers (see pictures). I alternate between the stock TAD TN 2 passive crossover and an active 24db marchand which allows the TAD horn to run fullrange at 110db. I have multiple amps but generally use a pair of Crown K1s bridged on each TAD woofer and single ended triodes on the horn or First Watt Amps.

I also had a Tannoy DMT15 as a center and Tannoy DMT 12 mks2 as sides and rears. The Velodyne DDR18 is gone so looking for another sub as well. The feedback on the submersive looks very good so that is on my shortlist. All the Tannoys are gone but I do miss the Tannoy DMT 15 as a center.

The room is now treated with 16 6x2 echobuster absorption and diffusion panels.

Due to the huge size of the TAD I've been thinking of moving them to another room and getting some catalysts or JTRs as a room friendly alternative.

I tried the M&K s150 THX speakers and they were not what I was looking for at all. A tiny box sound and no match for the TADS in any area. I also heard the Klipsch KL 650s and although they had better dynamics than the M&K they were unrefined on music and movies and all over the place. Quite fatiguing.

Frankly these supposed home theater legends were pretty disappointing. The TAD can play at huge undistorted levels without any reduction in sound quality that the M&K and Klipsch could only dream about. They also play all types of music exceptionally well.

Part of the problem is I prefer a hard hitting 15 inch driver punching from about 300 hertz down. These little drivers of 8 or 6 inches just can't cut it in upper bass dynamics. When you hear the TAD 1601s punching from 300 hertz down the impact is incredible. We tried the famous master and commander scene and the little drivers sounded very strained and fatiguing without impact. Also with my Call of Duty game the upper bass explosions did not sound real.

With the TADS I had the velodyne sliding in at around 35 hertz. Even the Klipsch KL650 sounded flat with Velodyne coming in at 80 hertz.

So the options I'm considering at the moment and would appreciate some input are as follows:

1. Forget about room looks and build a center TAD the same as my main speakers. I can raise the screen and build the bass cabinet wider and lower to accommodate the center. The problem is it may be a little close to the mains.

2. Buy some JTR or Catalyst speakers with the 12 inch drivers. The question is can either of these speakers equal the TADS? Is the sound refined or ragged? How hard do they punch from 300 hertz down? I've read good things about these speakers but have never really heard them compared against anything really good.

3. In respect of rears and side speakers. The JTR slanted speakers look pretty good and would match the efficiency of the TAD when crossed over passively. I wanted to put them up on the wall which I couldn't do with the Tannoy DMT12s as they were too big and heavy.

Would these JTRs be a good match for the TAD? I was thinking of the Klipsch KS speakers but given the poor performance of the KL 650s I'm not too sure about those now.

Thanks in advance
DJ