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Official JTR speaker thread - Page 234

post #6991 of 8434
Just use 2x4s

make a 17.5 in tall box that is as deep as the T12s. basically a smaller version of the rectangle you made for the center
make a 2nd one
attach them to each other with so the width matches what you want for the t12s
id use 2 braces top and bottom

you basically now have a cube

attach a sheet of plywood to the top to make it even

BAM 18in stand that will hold just about anything
post #6992 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

i've gotten six 4CF boxes out of a gallon of duratex and still have some left!!! I'd suggest adding some water to thin it out a bit it, it makes the finish smoother and look nicer than just straight duratex. I've used it for the last 4 or 5 years. The spray stuff looks the best but is not as durable since it's much thinner. Just use a smooth foam roller and it will look just like the JTR speakers do.

Nate, how much water? Any kind of ratio of water to duratex? A finish like the JTR's would be perfect for me obviously.

thanks
post #6993 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Yeah I went by 2 fabric stores today (Joann and G Street) and neither had carpet type speaker cover, so I think I may order a gallon of Duratex, use that for my center stand, and then if I can think of a way to build a L/R stand, use it for that. If I can't think of a way to build a L/R stand, I will just get the trial Duratex and use that for my center.

Anyone have any suggestions how to build a 16 - 18 inch high speaker stand for T12's? I have 0 woodworking skills so it would have to be cuts from the people at HD. The center one I built was just a 10' 2x6 that they cut into the lengths I needed, and a 1/2" thick piece of plywood cut to the size I needed. I just put it all together.

But they don't make 2x16's lol. I was thinking about using 2 2x10's though, and stacking them, but I don't know how to connect 2 pieces of that stacked.

Any suggestions?

If you want to make a full plywood box, download boxnotes. Plug in the dimensions you want and it will spit out a cutlist for you.
post #6994 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

If you want to make a full plywood box, download boxnotes. Plug in the dimensions you want and it will spit out a cutlist for you.

You think a full plywood box would support a T12? They are like 125lbs each.
post #6995 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

You think a full plywood box would support a T12? They are like 125lbs each.

Yes. Put a brace down the center to be safe. It's essentially how subs/speakers are built. Use 3/4". I'm 235 and have stood on my subs many times. biggrin.gif
post #6996 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

You think a full plywood box would support a T12? They are like 125lbs each.

Support my T12s no problem

:
post #6997 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Yeah I went by 2 fabric stores today (Joann and G Street) and neither had carpet type speaker cover, so I think I may order a gallon of Duratex, use that for my center stand, and then if I can think of a way to build a L/R stand, use it for that. If I can't think of a way to build a L/R stand, I will just get the trial Duratex and use that for my center.

Anyone have any suggestions how to build a 16 - 18 inch high speaker stand for T12's? I have 0 woodworking skills so it would have to be cuts from the people at HD. The center one I built was just a 10' 2x6 that they cut into the lengths I needed, and a 1/2" thick piece of plywood cut to the size I needed. I just put it all together.

But they don't make 2x16's lol. I was thinking about using 2 2x10's though, and stacking them, but I don't know how to connect 2 pieces of that stacked.

Any suggestions?
Why build anything when you can just use your Caps as stands?

Being 2" too high is not going to hurt anything. My apologies if this has already been answered.
post #6998 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Yes. Put a brace down the center to be safe. It's essentially how subs/speakers are built. Use 3/4". I'm 235 and have stood on my subs many times. biggrin.gif

Since I'm such a noob, what exactly does "put a brace down the center" mean? Just put another piece of plywood running perpendicular to the top, at the center of it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

Why build anything when you can just use your Caps as stands?

Being 2" too high is not going to hurt anything. My apologies if this has already been answered.

That is true I have not thought about going that route yet. But I like the way that my current setup sounds/looks as it is, how my speakers kind of hug the screen. I would have to move the caps over a bit. I have the room but they will be extremely close to the wall if I went that route.

To be honest I haven't really thought about going that route too much. I kind of just figured I'd make a stand for them at some point. If I set them on my caps though, I have to put some kind of material between the caps and T12's right?

I'm about to go take measurements though to see the exact height of my listening position and see how tall of a stand I would need to get the tweeter at ear level.

EDIT:

Just took measurements. The 18" stands would be pretty ideal. My Audyssey mic is still on the boom stand and is just around 38" from the ground, and the tweeter is just about 20".

I also measured and to the right of my screen I have about 31" before I hit the wall. So I could fit the whole cap over there but would being that close to the wall be bad? I do have the electrical panel right over there as well as the FIOS box on the wall.

I can't test it out right now because my speaker wires are not long enough for my subs to be moved that farther over, so I'd have to make some new ones. Plus my wife is sleeping so I can't mess around with it right now anyways lol.

But to be honest I kind of like building things too because it's a fun project and I feel like I'm learning stuff as I go along smile.gif
Edited by purbeast - 1/24/13 at 8:05pm
post #6999 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

That is true I have not thought about going that route yet. But I like the way that my current setup sounds/looks as it is, how my speakers kind of hug the screen. I would have to move the caps over a bit. I have the room but they will be extremely close to the wall if I went that route.

To be honest I haven't really thought about going that route too much. I kind of just figured I'd make a stand for them at some point. If I set them on my caps though, I have to put some kind of material between the caps and T12's right?

I'm about to go take measurements though to see the exact height of my listening position and see how tall of a stand I would need to get the tweeter at ear level.

EDIT:

Just took measurements. The 18" stands would be pretty ideal. My Audyssey mic is still on the boom stand and is just around 38" from the ground, and the tweeter is just about 20".

I also measured and to the right of my screen I have about 31" before I hit the wall. So I could fit the whole cap over there but would being that close to the wall be bad? I do have the electrical panel right over there as well as the FIOS box on the wall.

I can't test it out right now because my speaker wires are not long enough for my subs to be moved that farther over, so I'd have to make some new ones. Plus my wife is sleeping so I can't mess around with it right now anyways lol.

But to be honest I kind of like building things too because it's a fun project and I feel like I'm learning stuff as I go along smile.gif

You can certainly build decent stands, but you may want to try the caps first and see what you think of the appearance and sound. Being close to the wall may increase the room gain for the Caps. You will definitely want to run Audyssey again before forming an opinion. I would put something between the T12's and Caps like that rolled rubber that people use to line their kitchen cabinet shelves.

The plywood route is probably best for the stands. Yes, putting another piece down the middle perpendicular to the top is how you would internally brace it. My company builds boxes for people to jump on that way and they hold up to forces far greater than 125 lb speakers.
post #7000 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Support my T12s no problem

:

Man those T12s just look menacing, and that S2 looks scary. When is your second one arriving Frohlich? Unless I'm mistaken I remember reading a post from you that you had ordered a second one?
post #7001 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Man those T12s just look menacing, and that S2 looks scary. When is your second one arriving Frohlich? Unless I'm mistaken I remember reading a post from you that you had ordered a second one?

Should ship today and arrive next week when I last spoke to Jeff. I will have to give him a buzz today and get an update. He was out of some BMS drivers (at least the 18 inch) after the Holidays and was waiting on his new shipment.
post #7002 of 8434
PurBeast
The T12's and the Noesis are in the same size cabinet. Look at pictures of Carps stands and you can see what they look like. Mine are 18" tall and are built to look like an extension of the T12's. They cost $200 each. You can make some for less money if needed but the quality and construction would be hard to duplicate. They will hold over 300lbs with ease as I have tested this out myself by standing on them while holding a T12. I even tried jumping up and down but that was a bad idea for me not the stands.
I know its a little more expensive but it solves the issue 100% while looking BA.
Good luck
Chris
post #7003 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Since I'm such a noob, what exactly does "put a brace down the center" mean? Just put another piece of plywood running perpendicular to the top, at the center of it?
That is true I have not thought about going that route yet. But I like the way that my current setup sounds/looks as it is, how my speakers kind of hug the screen. I would have to move the caps over a bit. I have the room but they will be extremely close to the wall if I went that route.

To be honest I haven't really thought about going that route too much. I kind of just figured I'd make a stand for them at some point. If I set them on my caps though, I have to put some kind of material between the caps and T12's right?

I'm about to go take measurements though to see the exact height of my listening position and see how tall of a stand I would need to get the tweeter at ear level.

EDIT:

Just took measurements. The 18" stands would be pretty ideal. My Audyssey mic is still on the boom stand and is just around 38" from the ground, and the tweeter is just about 20".

I also measured and to the right of my screen I have about 31" before I hit the wall. So I could fit the whole cap over there but would being that close to the wall be bad? I do have the electrical panel right over there as well as the FIOS box on the wall.

I can't test it out right now because my speaker wires are not long enough for my subs to be moved that farther over, so I'd have to make some new ones. Plus my wife is sleeping so I can't mess around with it right now anyways lol.

But to be honest I kind of like building things too because it's a fun project and I feel like I'm learning stuff as I go along smile.gif

It's really hard to give you an accurate/best situation for sub placement without measuring each position. If you're moving the Caps toward the corners it most likely will have an effect on how they sound - for better or for worse we cannot say yet for sure.

In regards to your stands - If you decide to build your own stands (why not!?) I'd be happy to help via PM or phone. If you decide to throw some together and don't like how they turn out, wood is CHEAP and it's easy enough to try another design. Well worth your time for the learning experience and enjoyment IMO. biggrin.gif Check out the DIY FAQ link in my signature for a link to the boxnotes program. It's free and is super easy to use to calculate cut list dimensions for anything box related you want to build - subs, speakers, or speaker stands. smile.gif And yes, the brace would go right down the middle of the box perpendicular to the top. In box notes speak you would be duplicating the "back" panel for the brace.
post #7004 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

It's really hard to give you an accurate/best situation for sub placement without measuring each position. If you're moving the Caps toward the corners it most likely will have an effect on how they sound - for better or for worse we cannot say yet for sure.

In regards to your stands - If you decide to build your own stands (why not!?) I'd be happy to help via PM or phone. If you decide to throw some together and don't like how they turn out, wood is CHEAP and it's easy enough to try another design. Well worth your time for the learning experience and enjoyment IMO. biggrin.gif Check out the DIY FAQ link in my signature for a link to the boxnotes program. It's free and is super easy to use to calculate cut list dimensions for anything box related you want to build - subs, speakers, or speaker stands. smile.gif And yes, the brace would go right down the middle of the box perpendicular to the top. In box notes speak you would be duplicating the "back" panel for the brace.

Okay gotcha thanks man. I did download boxnotes last night and yea, it was very easy to see it calculate the numbers and stuff.

You know I had a long post with questions for you here, but I figure I'll take it to PM since it is a tad off topic.
post #7005 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Yeah I went by 2 fabric stores today (Joann and G Street) and neither had carpet type speaker cover, so I think I may order a gallon of Duratex, use that for my center stand, and then if I can think of a way to build a L/R stand, use it for that. If I can't think of a way to build a L/R stand, I will just get the trial Duratex and use that for my center.

Anyone have any suggestions how to build a 16 - 18 inch high speaker stand for T12's? I have 0 woodworking skills so it would have to be cuts from the people at HD. The center one I built was just a 10' 2x6 that they cut into the lengths I needed, and a 1/2" thick piece of plywood cut to the size I needed. I just put it all together.

But they don't make 2x16's lol. I was thinking about using 2 2x10's though, and stacking them, but I don't know how to connect 2 pieces of that stacked.

Any suggestions?

I might suggest making some sort of angle on that center channel stand to help the T12's compression driver's aim. Angling the box would aim it directly at ear height.
post #7006 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I might suggest making some sort of angle on that center channel stand to help the T12's compression driver's aim. Angling the box would aim it directly at ear height.

Yup that is the plan. Going to get 2 angled door stoppers to put under the speaker to angle them up. That is what the previous owner did as well and it looked nice on his setup.

If that doesn't end up getting the angle I want then I may order those mopad things and put them on the stand and use those to angle them upwards.
post #7007 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Support my T12s no problem

:

I'd love to see your before and after hearing charts smile.gif

wow, those are massive!
post #7008 of 8434
Ok guys. I m going to try and rerun Audyssey and NOT mess up everything, which will be a first for me BTW. Heading to Guitar Center to get a mic stand that will hold the Audyssey mic correctly and will pick up a SLP meter too. Since those of us with JTR speakers have to tweak the post Audyssey settings what do you do first, run Audyssey and then adjust level calibration or level calibrate first then run Audyssey? Every time I run Audyssey it puts my LCR at -12 and the subs at -8db. Basically it tames the hell out of my system volume wise. Do I need to consider attenuators?

One last question. What do you guys set the crossover at for your JTR's? Audyssey loves 80hz but I figured it would be best to ask here.
Edited by SeaNile - 1/26/13 at 2:28pm
post #7009 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Nate, how much water? Any kind of ratio of water to duratex? A finish like the JTR's would be perfect for me obviously.

thanks

I add about 5-8% to what is in you cup. They say in the instruction to do exactly that though they don't recommend a certain amount, just that it will give good smoother results. My 2242H boxes I used 5% but didn't have a foam roller. The best way to do it IMO is to get a scrap piece of wood and take a small amount of duratex and try it out tinned out in different amounts and see what looks best. So far a smooth roller and 6% water looks to be pretty good. I'm sure JTR's cab guys sprays but thinned out enough, it looks damn close!
post #7010 of 8434
Thanks to Gorilla83 he lead me on the right path of parts to get to build some stands.

So today I ended up putting together 2 stands for my mains.

They are 17" x 16.5" x 14". I decided to make them 17" tall because the ideal listening height at 18" is for when my seats are all the way up, and I tend to watch movies with my chair reclined a bit, so I figured hey why not drop it 1 inch tongue.gif

Anyways here are a few pics I snapped.







I'm going to order a gallon of Duratex right now and finish the 3 stands with it. Tomorrow I'm going to fill in some gaps and sand it all down, getting it ready to be finished with the Duratex.

I'll post some pics when it's all said and done.
post #7011 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Thanks to Gorilla83 he lead me on the right path of parts to get to build some stands.

So today I ended up putting together 2 stands for my mains.

They are 17" x 16.5" x 14". I decided to make them 17" tall because the ideal listening height at 18" is for when my seats are all the way up, and I tend to watch movies with my chair reclined a bit, so I figured hey why not drop it 1 inch tongue.gif

Anyways here are a few pics I snapped.







I'm going to order a gallon of Duratex right now and finish the 3 stands with it. Tomorrow I'm going to fill in some gaps and sand it all down, getting it ready to be finished with the Duratex.

I'll post some pics when it's all said and done.
Those look great.

I look forward to the pictures of your system with those installed.
post #7012 of 8434
^ Nice stands Purbeast!
post #7013 of 8434
Purbeast, you should stick some subs in those stands!!! They are there anyways, why not!!! biggrin.gif
post #7014 of 8434
Nice work, Drew! Satisfying to DIY, eh? biggrin.gif
post #7015 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaNile View Post

Ok guys. I m going to try and rerun Audyssey and NOT mess up everything, which will be a first for me BTW. Heading to Guitar Center to get a mic stand that will hold the Audyssey mic correctly and will pick up a SLP meter too. Since those of us with JTR speakers have to tweak the post Audyssey settings what do you do first, run Audyssey and then adjust level calibration or level calibrate first then run Audyssey? Every time I run Audyssey it puts my LCR at -12 and the subs at -8db. Basically it tames the hell out of my system volume wise. Do I need to consider attenuators?

One last question. What do you guys set the crossover at for your JTR's? Audyssey loves 80hz but I figured it would be best to ask here.

Level setting before EQ won't do anything. Audyssey will trump your settings. Looks like some attenuators are in your future smile.gif As has been pointed out, if you run Aud. and you get to -12 (max you AVR does assuming) then you are already cutting off its ability to additionally attenuate certain frequencies beyond 12dB. Good news is, PE sells quality Att. devices on the cheap. Go scoop a few. Your subs should be ok, but for the mains:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=266-244
post #7016 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaNile View Post

Ok guys. I m going to try and rerun Audyssey and NOT mess up everything, which will be a first for me BTW. Heading to Guitar Center to get a mic stand that will hold the Audyssey mic correctly and will pick up a SLP meter too. Since those of us with JTR speakers have to tweak the post Audyssey settings what do you do first, run Audyssey and then adjust level calibration or level calibrate first then run Audyssey? Every time I run Audyssey it puts my LCR at -12 and the subs at -8db. Basically it tames the hell out of my system volume wise. Do I need to consider attenuators?

One last question. What do you guys set the crossover at for your JTR's? Audyssey loves 80hz but I figured it would be best to ask here.

John - If you're concerned about the level settings, bypass your XPA-5 and connect the T12s to your receiver. Although explain what you mean by 'taming' your system though? When I was over the other day I thought they sounded great. You can always adjust the levels manually too - but as beast stated it's always done post-Audyssey.
post #7017 of 8434
I figure it's time to learn this stuff and at least be able to run Audyssey without any help! AllI need is the boom part of the mic stand and I should have everything needed. Picked up a SPL meter and I do have a mic stand so the mic is placed properly. The inuke6000dsp showed up yesterday so I'll play around with the system and hook up that amp for fun. I'm not looking forward to the back of my rack as the wires seem to be everywhere.

What I meant by taming the system is before when Audyssey would put the JTR's at -12 everything seemed so quiet. I'd be listening to things at +6 when typically -3 to 0 would be plenty loud.

And the attenuator goes where exactly?
Edited by SeaNile - 1/27/13 at 7:37am
post #7018 of 8434
I am really beginning to hate Audyssey, but I am going to learn this! So I just put my amp gain from about 4 oclock to noon, reran Audyssey and the numbers look jacked up to me. Still puts LCR and subs at -12. Pulled out the SPL meter and the LCR's are at 75db (at -12) rears are 71db (at -2) and sub is at 55db. Shouldn't all of the speakers be at 75db during level calibration?
post #7019 of 8434
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaNile View Post

I am really beginning to hate Audyssey, but I am going to learn this! So I just put my amp gain from about 4 oclock to noon, reran Audyssey and the numbers look jacked up to me. Still puts LCR and subs at -12. Pulled out the SPL meter and the LCR's are at 75db (at -12) rears are 71db (at -2) and sub is at 55db. Shouldn't all of the speakers be at 75db during level calibration?

John -yes, the goal is typically 75db for all. Mine never gets it quite right either and when I have my amp gain dialed back the subs are always way too cold. Turn your sub amp gain back up, re run, then dial them all in with your meter when done. You will probably have to bump your surrounds up a few db like we did before and you will be good.

It really doesn't matter what values Audyssey sets as long as you can match them with your meter after. You can always apply global gain settings per source with your receiver if you prefer to see a lower number on the dial when you crank it up.
post #7020 of 8434
Not too add to the confusion but I just hooked up the inuke6000 amp. Looks like it requires an XLR splitter to drive both A&B channels?

Anyway, if I am to get the subs to read 75db I'll give it a shot. I've only got about a week of this before the other subs show up and then it will get real confusing for me and Audyssey.
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