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Official JTR speaker thread - Page 254

post #7591 of 18430
What is required to movie the coaxial from the center position to the top on a T8??? I'm gonna be buying stands and want to weigh my options on height.
post #7592 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by JC507JC View Post

What is required to movie the coaxial from the center position to the top on a T8??? I'm gonna be buying stands and want to weigh my options on height.
It is really easy. You take out the screws, take out the drivers, disconnect the wires, reconnect the wires through the new holes, put the drivers back in and screw them down. It takes just a few minutes per speaker. However, write down the colors of the wires before disconnecting them, so you are sure to hook them back up correctly.
post #7593 of 18430
Thanks.

So no soldering?? How are the wires connected inside?
post #7594 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by JC507JC View Post

Thanks.

So no soldering?? How are the wires connected inside?
No soldering. They are quick disconnect terminals.
post #7595 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

No soldering. They are quick disconnect terminals.
Sweet. Guess I got something to do tonight now.
post #7596 of 18430
Okay thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it!
post #7597 of 18430
Actually I just re-read the PM from the guy selling the Slanted 8's (talking to a couple) and these are THE original pair that were designed in 2009 he said.

He is asking really cheap for them which is why I was asking in the first place. Above someone mentions that 2010 is when there were drastic changes.

So to match the T12's would these 2009 models probably not be sufficient compared to the newer models?
post #7598 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Actually I just re-read the PM from the guy selling the Slanted 8's (talking to a couple) and these are THE original pair that were designed in 2009 he said.

He is asking really cheap for them which is why I was asking in the first place. Above someone mentions that 2010 is when there were drastic changes.

So to match the T12's would these 2009 models probably not be sufficient compared to the newer models?

Mine are both 2009 and 2010 models. I do not think the changes were drastic and I cannot tell the difference. Honestly, for surround duty I would not sweat it.
post #7599 of 18430
Okay I'm just checking because the price is so good that it is almost too good to be true heh. So I was skeptical about them being that old but he claims they are fine and work just fine. But I wasn't sure if he was asking so cheap because they just aren't good speakers or something.
post #7600 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Okay I'm just checking because the price is so good that it is almost too good to be true heh. So I was skeptical about them being that old but he claims they are fine and work just fine. But I wasn't sure if he was asking so cheap because they just aren't good speakers or something.

If they are that good of a deal, plan B would be to get new crossovers and coaxials from Jeff for a reasonable cost and be as good as new.
post #7601 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Okay I'm just checking because the price is so good that it is almost too good to be true heh. So I was skeptical about them being that old but he claims they are fine and work just fine. But I wasn't sure if he was asking so cheap because they just aren't good speakers or something.

Jeff's speakers are built like tanks. 2009 is almost new smile.gif
post #7602 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

I bet he's selling more than he anticipated. I'm not surprised, I had a feeling that if he created a Noesis jr. it would be a hit. Sill, I'm telling you guys, the 212's have a sound that draws me in and addicts me that the 228's just don't quite have. The 212's make me want to keep turning up the volume and the 228's don't do that near as much to me - hmmm, maybe that's not a good thing! tongue.gifsmile.gif The soundstage is bigger too it's like a massive wall of sound but everything is distinct at the same time.

Still, are they twice as good since they cost twice as much? No. Are they worth the difference in price? YES!! Well, to me they are.

Obviously I'm completely biased I just want to nudge anyone who is on the fence (especially music people) towards the big brothers IF they can afford it. Well, I'm not sure I could afford it myself but hey you only have to pay once. smile.gif

the 212's mated with the OS for music is one of the main reasosn I haven't posted as much recently. Can't stop listening to music!
post #7603 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

the 212's mated with the OS for music is one of the main reason I haven't posted as much recently. Can't stop listening to music!

Good for you LB, much better use of time. cool.gif
post #7604 of 18430
Need immediate help please!! I've been eying the AE and BMS group buys and am seriously thinking about building LCR speakers - so 3 total. I was going to do one of the SEOS 12 builds from the DIY forum. But after reading about these JTR speakers and that there are several people interested in or have already done their own versions of JTR, I'm very interested in the 212. The main reason is that I recall hearing the Klipsch RF7 vs the RF5, RF3 (yeah, it was some years back!) and I'll never forget how much smoother, more natural and effortless the sound was from the RF7's. They were the only model in the series that used a 1.4" compression driver with the appropriate sized (i.e., lareger) horn. All the others used a 1" compression driver.

The BMS deadline is now this coming Monday, correct?

The AE deadline is tonight -- order must be PM'ed by 11 PM! So I gotta make up mu mind quick re: should I be purchasing some AE's tonight? (Don't know if I'll do the dual 12" version or the dual 10" version, btw.)

Does anyone know the costs of the AE 12" and 10" drivers? Or the cost of the BMS 1.4" and the 1" CD's?

Also, any recommendations you'd like to make are welcome as well. Thanks!
post #7605 of 18430
Wow that's one heck of a swing, spend $6600+ on a 212HT LCR set up, go DIY eek.gif
post #7606 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by countryWV View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

What I really wish Jeff had was a HT version of the Noesis 2TX to bridge the gap between the 212HT and the 228HT. I know Kevin is using the 2TX for HT use, but I would prefer an actual HT version with the woofers in the same configuration as the rest of the HT Noesis speakers.
As the year goes on I suspect there will be even more New exciting offerings from Jeff. wink.gif
Look at what the past 3-4 months have brought us JTR fans.biggrin.gif
Alot more People are talking about JTR products these days.
Chris

The 2TX and the 228HT use the same compression driver. The 8" vs. 10" midbass drivers are immaterial for home theater use. We had to turn the 228HT to about 8 above reference to get them rocking. At reference they don't even visibly move, and they do play flat to 70hz.

From my understanding - bridging the gap between the 228HT and the 212HT is the difference in a ~$150 compression driver that plays down to about 1000hz and a ~$700 compression driver that plays down to about 400hz (corrected by Jeff - I was mistakenly thinking 600hz). I'd wager that if Jeff put the expensive compression driver in a cab with the two triple 8" woofers the difference between the 212HT and the 228HT would be pretty much indistinguishable for home use. This is my opinion and guess. I could be wrong.

NOW -- powering an auditorium for DJ use? - - - yeah the pair of 12" drivers greater power handling would likely come into play.
Edited by Archaea - 3/8/13 at 7:38pm
post #7607 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by pianoman88 View Post

Need immediate help please!! I've been eying the AE and BMS group buys and am seriously thinking about building LCR speakers - so 3 total. I was going to do one of the SEOS 12 builds from the DIY forum. But after reading about these JTR speakers and that there are several people interested in or have already done their own versions of JTR, I'm very interested in the 212. The main reason is that I recall hearing the Klipsch RF7 vs the RF5, RF3 (yeah, it was some years back!) and I'll never forget how much smoother, more natural and effortless the sound was from the RF7's. They were the only model in the series that used a 1.4" compression driver with the appropriate sized (i.e., lareger) horn. All the others used a 1" compression driver.

The BMS deadline is now this coming Monday, correct?

The AE deadline is tonight -- order must be PM'ed by 11 PM! So I gotta make up mu mind quick re: should I be purchasing some AE's tonight? (Don't know if I'll do the dual 12" version or the dual 10" version, btw.)

Does anyone know the costs of the AE 12" and 10" drivers? Or the cost of the BMS 1.4" and the 1" CD's?

Also, any recommendations you'd like to make are welcome as well. Thanks!

Can you get the same BMS driver that's in the Noesis 212? I believe it's the 4593 ND, and I think it's around 700 or so with no discount. Someone correct me if that's wrong.
post #7608 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

The 2TX and the 228HT use the same compression driver. The 8" vs. 10" midbass drivers are immaterial for home theater use. We had to turn the 228HT to about 8 above reference to get them moving.

From my understanding - bridging the gap between the 228HT and the 212HT is the difference in a $150 compression driver that plays down to about 1000hz and a $700 compression driver that plays down to about 600hz. I'd wager that if Jeff put the expensive compression driver in a cab with the two triple 8" woofers the difference between the 212HT and the 228HT would be pretty much indistinguishable for home use.

NOW -- powering an auditorium for DJ use? - - - yeah the pair of 12" drivers greater power handling would likely come into play.

The other advantage is using a lower crossover with the 212's, I'm flat to 55hz in my room. However, most people cross at 80hz anyway.
post #7609 of 18430
Ok, break time is over. Back to building subs. Man, this feels like a full time job.
post #7610 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Can you get the same BMS driver that's in the Noesis 212? I believe it's the 4593 ND, and I think it's around 700 or so with no discount. Someone correct me if that's wrong.

Yes, that's what I'm getting, though I believe I read somewhere from the BMS fellow himself (name escapes me ATM) that there is some advantage to the 4594 over the 4593. In any case, I can figure that out later.

Think I'm going to go with 6 12" and 6 10" and if I end up using the 10"-ers in the LCR, I'll just have to sell the 12"-ers. If I use the 12"in the LCR, then I could build as much as a 9.1 or 9.2 system I guess. eek.giftongue.gif

Actually, 5.x is all I'm looking for really... 7.x at the most. But I can sell the extras. Actually, I just realized that is going to be quite a bit of $$$ isn't it? rolleyes.gif About $2600+/- just for the AE's. Oh well...guess I'd better decide and get my PM in before 11. Cheers!
post #7611 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

From my understanding - bridging the gap between the 228HT and the 212HT is the difference in a ~$150 compression driver that plays down to about 1000hz and a ~$700 compression driver that plays down to about 600hz..

400hz smile.gif
post #7612 of 18430
Corrected in the orginal post! (post 7621) -- sorry I got that mixed up!

Thanks Jeff! Good to see you here!
post #7613 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post

400hz smile.gif

Jeff, is the 3TX down to 400Hz as well?
post #7614 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

No soldering. They are quick disconnect terminals.

Thank you. That was so much easier than I expected. Got them both done in just a few minutes. Now I only need 19" stands instead of 27". biggrin.gif
post #7615 of 18430
I need to run speaker wire up tto maybe 25 feet what gauge works for you with these
post #7616 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lem View Post

I need to run speaker wire up tto maybe 25 feet what gauge works for you with these


12awg will be more than fine.
post #7617 of 18430
So I've noticed that my electrical panel door has started rattling a bit in my theater. Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop something like that from rattling? Like if I put my hand on the door during a loud bass scene it is fine, but sometimes I can hear it rattling in some loud scenes.
post #7618 of 18430
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So I've noticed that my electrical panel door has started rattling a bit in my theater. Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop something like that from rattling? Like if I put my hand on the door during a loud bass scene it is fine, but sometimes I can hear it rattling in some loud scenes.

put gasket tape around door, it will make a tighter fit and stop it from rattling. I had to doi that to mine also. Thing sounded like a jet talking off in the other room hahaha
post #7619 of 18430
line the door with gasket tape
post #7620 of 18430
Hmm so what B&M stores do I find this gasket tape? Never heard of it. I just searched HD and Lowes website with no results. I do see some on Amazon though. I'd just prefer to go run out and snag it though.

EDIT:

Unless "foam tape" is the same thing?
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