Official JTR speaker thread - Page 255

Originally Posted by countryWV 

As the year goes on I suspect there will be even more New exciting offerings from Jeff.
Look at what the past 3-4 months have brought us JTR fans.
Alot more People are talking about JTR products these days.
Chris

Originally Posted by pianoman88 

Need immediate help please!! I've been eying the AE and BMS group buys and am seriously thinking about building LCR speakers - so 3 total. I was going to do one of the SEOS 12 builds from the DIY forum. But after reading about these JTR speakers and that there are several people interested in or have already done their own versions of JTR, I'm very interested in the 212. The main reason is that I recall hearing the Klipsch RF7 vs the RF5, RF3 (yeah, it was some years back!) and I'll never forget how much smoother, more natural and effortless the sound was from the RF7's. They were the only model in the series that used a 1.4" compression driver with the appropriate sized (i.e., lareger) horn. All the others used a 1" compression driver.

The BMS deadline is now this coming Monday, correct?

The AE deadline is tonight -- order must be PM'ed by 11 PM! So I gotta make up mu mind quick re: should I be purchasing some AE's tonight? (Don't know if I'll do the dual 12" version or the dual 10" version, btw.)

Does anyone know the costs of the AE 12" and 10" drivers? Or the cost of the BMS 1.4" and the 1" CD's?

Also, any recommendations you'd like to make are welcome as well. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Archaea 

The 2TX and the 228HT use the same compression driver. The 8" vs. 10" midbass drivers are immaterial for home theater use. We had to turn the 228HT to about 8 above reference to get them moving.

From my understanding - bridging the gap between the 228HT and the 212HT is the difference in a $150 compression driver that plays down to about 1000hz and a $700 compression driver that plays down to about 600hz. I'd wager that if Jeff put the expensive compression driver in a cab with the two triple 8" woofers the difference between the 212HT and the 228HT would be pretty much indistinguishable for home use.

NOW -- powering an auditorium for DJ use? - - - yeah the pair of 12" drivers greater power handling would likely come into play.

Originally Posted by carp 

Can you get the same BMS driver that's in the Noesis 212? I believe it's the 4593 ND, and I think it's around 700 or so with no discount. Someone correct me if that's wrong.

Originally Posted by Archaea 

From my understanding - bridging the gap between the 228HT and the 212HT is the difference in a ~$150 compression driver that plays down to about 1000hz and a ~$700 compression driver that plays down to about 600hz..

Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian 

400hz

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

No soldering. They are quick disconnect terminals.

Originally Posted by Mark Lem 

I need to run speaker wire up tto maybe 25 feet what gauge works for you with these

Originally Posted by purbeast 

So I've noticed that my electrical panel door has started rattling a bit in my theater. Anyone have any suggestions on how to stop something like that from rattling? Like if I put my hand on the door during a loud bass scene it is fine, but sometimes I can hear it rattling in some loud scenes.

Originally Posted by purbeast 

Hmm so what B&M stores do I find this gasket tape? Never heard of it. I just searched HD and Lowes website with no results. I do see some on Amazon though. I'd just prefer to go run out and snag it though.

EDIT:

Unless "foam tape" is the same thing?

Originally Posted by Mark Lem 

I'm close to closing in on LCR of 228HT's for my home theater (single 8's/slant 8's sides&rear in a 7.1). I get that they are great at reference but what about say normal levels of listening. I know this is subjective, lets call it typical waf listening levels. things like voice articulation, music score in films. My wife will never watch a movie close to reference. currently have B&W 804's plus HTMC4 center for the three up front and they do a pretty good job at lower listening, though the other night while watching Avengers BD, they were a bit harsh and weak on the really loud scenes (like near end battle with lots of glass shattering)... So are the JTR's for those loud rocking sounds or can they be subtle and detailed at lower listening as well. I don't have the opportunity to listen before buying

Originally Posted by RMK! 

I re-read this post last night after the PM as your comment about the glass shattering jogged my memory. Most of us who do HT know the War of the Worlds POD's emerging scene for the big bass impact but I have always found the window glass shattering and the "Jeep toss" (when it lands upside down) as a good gauge of a speakers HF capability. With my Revels and my original T12's the window glass shattering/Jeep toss caused me to wince at reference levels. As Jeff up graded the CD's and crossover design of the T12's those elements of that chapter became more tolerable. With the Noesis there is no longer any speaker induced harshness in that scene.

With its big dynamic range that chapter provides a good test for a speakers dynamic range capability as well as your subwoofers performance. IMHO

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

RMK,
Since you have 2 rows of seats, where did you position your side surrounds relative to the two rows? Specifically, are they in line with your front row or between the 2 rows? Do you notice much of a difference with in the surround experience when sitting in the front row, versus the back row. Thank you.

Originally Posted by RMK! 

The side surrounds are slightly behind the front row with the CD approx 1' above seated head height. They are a couple of feet in front of the back row with the CD at ear height.

I EQ'd the system with a front row priority (the owners box if you will ) and so I prefer the sound there. The differences are slight and at this point, all seats have good to great surround sound.

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

Thank you. I am going back and forth, deciding whether to optimize the placement for the front tow and let the (planned) back row make due with whatever happens, versus a compromise between the rows. The compromise between the rows, speakers centered about 1-2 feet behind the front row, will be more asthetically pleasing, so it may be the best choice, especially if the differences will be small.

I will likely optimize Audyssey for the front row and not even involve the back row in measurements. This will likely be the kid's seats and they will not notice the difference.

I will likely optimize Audyssey for the front row and not even involve the back row in measurements. This will likely be the kid's seats and they will not notice the difference.

Originally Posted by beastaudio 

I have my theater optimized for the front row, and more specifically MY seat only really. Even with enthusiasts who have come to demo the system, they have said it "all" sounds good from front or back row, and my room is a little more tricky than say RMK's as I have VERY little width to work with so side placements I had to sacrifice somewhere, and with the time and effort me myself and I have put into the theater, I wasn't going to sacrifice the MLP one single iota. For the casual listener they have never even noticed a difference even when I have adjusted the sound to work a little better for a "Big" viewing party. I say your thinking is right on with making it work best for where you plan on being while watching.

Another note on side placements is they should be relatively wide dispersion (if you are using s8/t8 etc then you're in fine shape) to distribute the sound and the closer you can get to on-axis with them, the better, but it still pretty easy to accomplish an acceptable sound from front to back row with them optimally placed (technically) for the front row...Unless your rows are like 10 feet apart

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

I am using T8's. I have similar width issues. The side surrounds will be almost on top of the outside seats. I will likely have them near the ceiling placed horizontally and angled down 45 degrees to keep the outside seats in the 90 degree dispersion. I need to keep the 4 front seats reasonable, since I don't always get my own seat when we have people over.

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

I am using T8's. I have similar width issues. The side surrounds will be almost on top of the outside seats. I will likely have them near the ceiling placed horizontally and angled down 45 degrees to keep the outside seats in the 90 degree dispersion. I need to keep the 4 front seats reasonable, since I don't always get my own seat when we have people over.

Originally Posted by RMK! 

Horizontal T8's should make excellent surrounds and that 45º down angle will be perfect IMO. You can expect a lot of boundary gain from that placement. Audyssey often sets my Slanted 8 height and surround backs at 50hz due to the wall/ceiling corner placement. I bump them up to 100hz.

Originally Posted by Jedirun 

RMK,

Another question. I think you said you drilled into, but not through your Slanted 8's to use the speaker mounts, did you do something similar when using French cleats with your old T8's? If I am mounting my speakers at 45 degrees, I am thinking that I should actually drill through the backs, use bolts and put a nut on the inside of the speaker, or make a custom shelf with a lip. I am assuming that the French cleat method puts perpendicular forces on the screw, where there would be a very real risk of my screws being pulled out if I don't go through the plywood. In the back, I can just use a nice shelf.

This is all dependent on my wife letting me have the speakers visible. If not I will put them in boxes with grill cloth hiding them