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Official JTR speaker thread - Page 255

post #7621 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Hmm so what B&M stores do I find this gasket tape? Never heard of it. I just searched HD and Lowes website with no results. I do see some on Amazon though. I'd just prefer to go run out and snag it though.

EDIT:

Unless "foam tape" is the same thing?
same stuff, just make sure that the foam tape fits under the panel, and the panel will still lock properly.
post #7622 of 18433
Okay cool I'm gonna head to home depot and check it out in a bit and see how it works!
post #7623 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Lem View Post

I'm close to closing in on LCR of 228HT's for my home theater (single 8's/slant 8's sides&rear in a 7.1). I get that they are great at reference but what about say normal levels of listening. I know this is subjective, lets call it typical waf listening levels. things like voice articulation, music score in films. My wife will never watch a movie close to reference. currently have B&W 804's plus HTMC4 center for the three up front and they do a pretty good job at lower listening, though the other night while watching Avengers BD, they were a bit harsh and weak on the really loud scenes (like near end battle with lots of glass shattering)... So are the JTR's for those loud rocking sounds or can they be subtle and detailed at lower listening as well. I don't have the opportunity to listen before buying

I re-read this post last night after the PM as your comment about the glass shattering jogged my memory. Most of us who do HT know the War of the Worlds POD's emerging scene for the big bass impact but I have always found the window glass shattering and the "Jeep toss" (when it lands upside down) as a good gauge of a speakers HF capability. With my Revels and my original T12's the window glass shattering/Jeep toss caused me to wince at reference levels. As Jeff up graded the CD's and crossover design of the T12's those elements of that chapter became more tolerable. With the Noesis there is no longer any speaker induced harshness in that scene.

With its big dynamic range that chapter provides a good test for a speakers dynamic range capability as well as your subwoofers performance. IMHO smile.gif
post #7624 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

I re-read this post last night after the PM as your comment about the glass shattering jogged my memory. Most of us who do HT know the War of the Worlds POD's emerging scene for the big bass impact but I have always found the window glass shattering and the "Jeep toss" (when it lands upside down) as a good gauge of a speakers HF capability. With my Revels and my original T12's the window glass shattering/Jeep toss caused me to wince at reference levels. As Jeff up graded the CD's and crossover design of the T12's those elements of that chapter became more tolerable. With the Noesis there is no longer any speaker induced harshness in that scene.

With its big dynamic range that chapter provides a good test for a speakers dynamic range capability as well as your subwoofers performance. IMHO smile.gif

Totally agree RMK. I noticed that with my T8s.........then it was better/smoother after the CD-xover upgrade with the T8s. I now need to watch it over with the 3TXs. cool.gif
post #7625 of 18433
RMK,
Since you have 2 rows of seats, where did you position your side surrounds relative to the two rows? Specifically, are they in line with your front row or between the 2 rows? Do you notice much of a difference with in the surround experience when sitting in the front row, versus the back row. Thank you.
post #7626 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

RMK,
Since you have 2 rows of seats, where did you position your side surrounds relative to the two rows? Specifically, are they in line with your front row or between the 2 rows? Do you notice much of a difference with in the surround experience when sitting in the front row, versus the back row. Thank you.

The side surrounds are slightly behind the front row with the CD approx 1' above seated head height. They are a couple of feet in front of the back row with the CD at ear height.

I EQ'd the system with a front row priority (the owners box if you will wink.gif ) and so I prefer the sound there. The differences are slight and at this point, all seats have good to great surround sound.
post #7627 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

The side surrounds are slightly behind the front row with the CD approx 1' above seated head height. They are a couple of feet in front of the back row with the CD at ear height.

I EQ'd the system with a front row priority (the owners box if you will wink.gif ) and so I prefer the sound there. The differences are slight and at this point, all seats have good to great surround sound.
Thank you. I am going back and forth, deciding whether to optimize the placement for the front tow and let the (planned) back row make due with whatever happens, versus a compromise between the rows. The compromise between the rows, speakers centered about 1-2 feet behind the front row, will be more asthetically pleasing, so it may be the best choice, especially if the differences will be small.

I will likely optimize Audyssey for the front row and not even involve the back row in measurements. This will likely be the kid's seats and they will not notice the difference.
post #7628 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

Thank you. I am going back and forth, deciding whether to optimize the placement for the front tow and let the (planned) back row make due with whatever happens, versus a compromise between the rows. The compromise between the rows, speakers centered about 1-2 feet behind the front row, will be more asthetically pleasing, so it may be the best choice, especially if the differences will be small.

I will likely optimize Audyssey for the front row and not even involve the back row in measurements. This will likely be the kid's seats and they will not notice the difference.

That was pretty much my thought process with Audyssey although I did take two measurements 2' behind the two center front row seats.

I don't think the exact position of the side surrounds is criticaI. I'd be willing to bet that like my room, any SQ differences between rows in yours will be negligable.
post #7629 of 18433
Quote:
I will likely optimize Audyssey for the front row and not even involve the back row in measurements. This will likely be the kid's seats and they will not notice the difference.

I have my theater optimized for the front row, and more specifically MY seat only really. Even with enthusiasts who have come to demo the system, they have said it "all" sounds good from front or back row, and my room is a little more tricky than say RMK's as I have VERY little width to work with so side placements I had to sacrifice somewhere, and with the time and effort me myself and I have put into the theater, I wasn't going to sacrifice the MLP one single iota. For the casual listener they have never even noticed a difference even when I have adjusted the sound to work a little better for a "Big" viewing party. I say your thinking is right on with making it work best for where you plan on being while watching.

Another note on side placements is they should be relatively wide dispersion (if you are using s8/t8 etc then you're in fine shape) to distribute the sound and the closer you can get to on-axis with them, the better, but it still pretty easy to accomplish an acceptable sound from front to back row with them optimally placed (technically) for the front row...Unless your rows are like 10 feet apart biggrin.gif
post #7630 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I have my theater optimized for the front row, and more specifically MY seat only really. Even with enthusiasts who have come to demo the system, they have said it "all" sounds good from front or back row, and my room is a little more tricky than say RMK's as I have VERY little width to work with so side placements I had to sacrifice somewhere, and with the time and effort me myself and I have put into the theater, I wasn't going to sacrifice the MLP one single iota. For the casual listener they have never even noticed a difference even when I have adjusted the sound to work a little better for a "Big" viewing party. I say your thinking is right on with making it work best for where you plan on being while watching.

Another note on side placements is they should be relatively wide dispersion (if you are using s8/t8 etc then you're in fine shape) to distribute the sound and the closer you can get to on-axis with them, the better, but it still pretty easy to accomplish an acceptable sound from front to back row with them optimally placed (technically) for the front row...Unless your rows are like 10 feet apart biggrin.gif
I am using T8's. I have similar width issues. The side surrounds will be almost on top of the outside seats. I will likely have them near the ceiling placed horizontally and angled down 45 degrees to keep the outside seats in the 90 degree dispersion. I need to keep the 4 front seats reasonable, since I don't always get my own seat when we have people over.
post #7631 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I have my theater optimized for the front row, and more specifically MY seat only really. Even with enthusiasts who have come to demo the system, they have said it "all" sounds good from front or back row, and my room is a little more tricky than say RMK's as I have VERY little width to work with so side placements I had to sacrifice somewhere, and with the time and effort me myself and I have put into the theater, I wasn't going to sacrifice the MLP one single iota. For the casual listener they have never even noticed a difference even when I have adjusted the sound to work a little better for a "Big" viewing party. I say your thinking is right on with making it work best for where you plan on being while watching.

Another note on side placements is they should be relatively wide dispersion (if you are using s8/t8 etc then you're in fine shape) to distribute the sound and the closer you can get to on-axis with them, the better, but it still pretty easy to accomplish an acceptable sound from front to back row with them optimally placed (technically) for the front row...Unless your rows are like 10 feet apart biggrin.gif
I am using T8's. I have similar width issues. The side surrounds will be almost on top of the outside seats. I will likely have them near the ceiling placed horizontally and angled down 45 degrees to keep the outside seats in the 90 degree dispersion. I need to keep the 4 front seats reasonable, since I don't always get my own seat when we have people over.

You should be fine. My surrounds are a slanted8 version I built out with the emminence10 instead, and a different compression driver. They aren't quite angled at 45 degrees but I wish they were, and mounted right below the 8' ceiling. Nevertheless, they spread over most of both rows quite well, and the cabinets for the sides are a total, height and width, 5 1/2-6 1/2 feet from the MLP
post #7632 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

I am using T8's. I have similar width issues. The side surrounds will be almost on top of the outside seats. I will likely have them near the ceiling placed horizontally and angled down 45 degrees to keep the outside seats in the 90 degree dispersion. I need to keep the 4 front seats reasonable, since I don't always get my own seat when we have people over.

Horizontal T8's should make excellent surrounds and that 45º down angle will be perfect IMO. You can expect a lot of boundary gain from that placement. Audyssey often sets my Slanted 8 height and surround backs at 50hz due to the wall/ceiling corner placement. I bump them up to 100hz.
post #7633 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Horizontal T8's should make excellent surrounds and that 45º down angle will be perfect IMO. You can expect a lot of boundary gain from that placement. Audyssey often sets my Slanted 8 height and surround backs at 50hz due to the wall/ceiling corner placement. I bump them up to 100hz.
That is good to hear. In my old setup, Audyssey set my kit rear surrounds to 120 hz, despite a reported F3 of 40 hz. This could have been a problem with the speakers themselves, the placement, (The rear mounted passive radiators may have been too close to the wall), or a room mode. I have much better room treatment in my current space and hope to be able to set all 7 speakers to an 80 hz crossover. Now I need to decide whether to put my rear surrounds flat on the rear wall or mount them at 90 degrees (upright in the corners) for maximum coverage. I think I am leaning towards corner placement to take advantage of the 90 degree dispersion.
post #7634 of 18433
RMK,

Another question. I think you said you drilled into, but not through your Slanted 8's to use the speaker mounts, did you do something similar when using French cleats with your old T8's? If I am mounting my speakers at 45 degrees, I am thinking that I should actually drill through the backs, use bolts and put a nut on the inside of the speaker, or make a custom shelf with a lip. I am assuming that the French cleat method puts perpendicular forces on the screw, where there would be a very real risk of my screws being pulled out if I don't go through the plywood. In the back, I can just use a nice shelf.

This is all dependent on my wife letting me have the speakers visible. If not I will put them in boxes with grill cloth hiding them.
post #7635 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

RMK,

Another question. I think you said you drilled into, but not through your Slanted 8's to use the speaker mounts, did you do something similar when using French cleats with your old T8's? If I am mounting my speakers at 45 degrees, I am thinking that I should actually drill through the backs, use bolts and put a nut on the inside of the speaker, or make a custom shelf with a lip. I am assuming that the French cleat method puts perpendicular forces on the screw, where there would be a very real risk of my screws being pulled out if I don't go through the plywood. In the back, I can just use a nice shelf.

This is all dependent on my wife letting me have the speakers visible. If not I will put them in boxes with grill cloth hiding them

Not sure what look you re going for but I have my 4 T8s enclosed ...just a point of reference for what they might look like.



post #7636 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Not sure what look you re going for but I have my 4 T8s enclosed ...just a point of reference for what they might look like.




Those in-wall mounted T8's look great Frohlich (in that they are invisible wink.gif )

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

RMK,

Another question. I think you said you drilled into, but not through your Slanted 8's to use the speaker mounts, did you do something similar when using French cleats with your old T8's? If I am mounting my speakers at 45 degrees, I am thinking that I should actually drill through the backs, use bolts and put a nut on the inside of the speaker, or make a custom shelf with a lip. I am assuming that the French cleat method puts perpendicular forces on the screw, where there would be a very real risk of my screws being pulled out if I don't go through the plywood. In the back, I can just use a nice shelf.

This is all dependent on my wife letting me have the speakers visible. If not I will put them in boxes with grill cloth hiding them.

I used wood french cleats on my old T8's and use the keyhole mounts Jeff pre-installed for the S8's and the new T8-LP's. For the wood french cleat I used fairly large (#12) brass wood screws and chose a length that would not penetrate all the way through the speaker wall. This is a shear force situation so I wasn't worried about screws pulling out of the 13 ply baltic birch that Jeff uses for the cabinets.

Good idea to keep the wife happy Jedi ... smile.gif
post #7637 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Not sure what look you re going for but I have my 4 T8s enclosed ...just a point of reference for what they might look like.



Yes, your surrounds look awesome. It turns out that I can only do that on one side. I have a built in bookshelf with nothing behind it that I can cut the back out of and put the T8 on a shelf angled down at 45 degrees 3" from the ceiling.

The rest will have to be in the room somehow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Those in-wall mounted T8's look great Frohlich (in that they are invisible wink.gif )


I used wood french cleats on my old T8's and use the keyhole mounts Jeff pre-installed for the S8's and the new T8-LP's. For the wood french cleat I used fairly large (#12) brass wood screws and chose a length that would not penetrate all the way through the speaker wall. This is a shear force situation so I wasn't worried about screws pulling out of the 13 ply baltic birch that Jeff uses for the cabinets.

Good idea to keep the wife happy Jedi ... smile.gif

I just asked Jeff to put keyhole mounts in the T8 that he is making to match my others. Hopefully it is not too late to add them, then I can add a bracket to get them to 45 degrees without cutting into the cabinets or worrying about the screws pulling out of the wood.
post #7638 of 18433
I have a very large living room and mounting my surrounds on the wall is not an option for me. So my question is can the slanted 8s be mounted on the ceiling and still sound good?
post #7639 of 18433
As the old magic 8-ball would say "Outlook good" "Signs point to yes".
Seriously though, the slanted 8 are great speakers so there should be no reason why they wouldn't work for you.
post #7640 of 18433
Thanks jbrown15 smile.gif
post #7641 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by poolratt View Post

I have a very large living room and mounting my surrounds on the wall is not an option for me. So my question is can the slanted 8s be mounted on the ceiling and still sound good?

My height speakers are Slanted 8's and they are mounted on the ceiling. As best I can tell they do sound good (not a lot of content coming from height speakers wink.gif). Having used one as the center channel recently I can say that they are a remarkable speaker for their size.
post #7642 of 18433
Thanks RMK! smile.gif
post #7643 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by poolratt View Post

I have a very large living room and mounting my surrounds on the wall is not an option for me. So my question is can the slanted 8s be mounted on the ceiling and still sound good?

My slant 8's aren't mounted on the ceiling but they are butted up against it. I think they sound great mounted high and angled down. The sound is different than a standard home theater but I think it sounds more like a commercial movie theater with the sound coming from that high of an angle. I have plenty of room to mount them where I want but I have no intention of lowering them.

post #7644 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brady84 View Post

My slant 8's aren't mounted on the ceiling but they are butted up against it. I think they sound great mounted high and angled down. The sound is different than a standard home theater but I think it sounds more like a commercial movie theater with the sound coming from that high of an angle. I have plenty of room to mount them where I want but I have no intention of lowering them.

Room and surrounds looks great.
post #7645 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Room and surrounds looks great.
Yeah, that is a pretty awesome room.
post #7646 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post




Heya Frolich... what's the dimension of your room? Width/length?
post #7647 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Heya Frolich... what's the dimension of your room? Width/length?

I am rounding a tad but it is 19 feet from projector screen to behind the HT chairs and 14 feet wide. THere are an additional 9 feet from the back of the chairs (bar area) to the wall on the other side of the bar were the steps come down into the basement.
post #7648 of 18433
I love you setup Frohlich, with that much room did you ever think about going with an AT screen when you were building your room?
post #7649 of 18433
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

I love you setup Frohlich, with that much room did you ever think about going with an AT screen when you were building your room?
I did not until after I completed the room mad.gif This was my first projector and didn't even think through that option when I had my contractor in to finish the basement. I am very happy with my 110 inch screen but like anything else...bigger is better wink.gif It might a future upgrade but I would have to think very carefully how to lay everything out and frame the screen out. Part of the fun of this addiction...there is always more things to do/buy/change/upgrade biggrin.gif

I would actually say that over 60% of my basement is unused right now (you might be able to see it in some of the pictures) and am trying to think of what to do with that space. Pool table...darts...foosball..etc.. We have a full bath and huge walkin cedar closet but not much else on that half of the basement. The kids mainly use it to get a running start into a couple of huge bean bags we bought and have sleepovers with their friends. Guess that will have to do for now.
Edited by Frohlich - 3/14/13 at 11:31am
post #7650 of 18433
Yeah I'm in the same boat as you. I went with just a stand screen and the speakers and subs out in the open. But now with just ordering my 228hts I'm going to retro fit my current screen with XD material from SeymourAV and build a stage with a false wall. Should be a fun little project, and I'm looking forward to having the sound come threw the screen instead of from under the screen.

I'm just going to retro fit the 16:9 screen I have right now but maybe next year upgrade to a constant height screen and get an anamorphic lens to use with my RS45 projector. I'd love to have a 10' wide screen!
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