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Official JTR speaker thread - Page 259

post #7741 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

You can try to visually trace the from where the red wires from the woofers connect to see if there is a loose connection somewhere. It is probably something loose in the crossover, since it would be very unlikely for both woofers to fail at once.

Yeah I was looking and didn't see anything funky going on. I may open the working one tonight to compare them and see if there is anything different.
post #7742 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Yeah I was looking and didn't see anything funky going on. I may open the working one tonight to compare them and see if there is anything different.

Well now that you are comfortable opening them up you might try switching the drivers as that will pin point the problem. My guess is the crossover and Jeff could send you a replacement.

Of course you could just ship Jeff the T8 and he will handle it...smile.gif
post #7743 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Well now that you are comfortable opening them up you might try switching the drivers as that will pin point the problem. My guess is the crossover and Jeff could send you a replacement.

Of course you could just ship Jeff the T8 and he will handle it...smile.gif

Yeah I was thinking about swapping 1 of the woofers between the two T8's and seeing how it sounds to see if it works fine in the other ones.

One thing I have no clue about is how to replace a crossover, so if that is the case I'd rather have him do it than me to be honest. I know how to solder and stuff, but I am not sure how to get it in the small casing. Like it seems it would be much easier to do all the crossover work before the box is put together.

As far as moving the coax driver to the middle position, I'm assuming all I have to do is remove the 4 wires from the coax driver, remove the 2 wires from the woofer, swap the physical location of the 2 drivers, then connect the wires back to where they went?
post #7744 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Yeah I was thinking about swapping 1 of the woofers between the two T8's and seeing how it sounds to see if it works fine in the other ones.

One thing I have no clue about is how to replace a crossover, so if that is the case I'd rather have him do it than me to be honest. I know how to solder and stuff, but I am not sure how to get it in the small casing. Like it seems it would be much easier to do all the crossover work before the box is put together.

As far as moving the coax driver to the middle position, I'm assuming all I have to do is remove the 4 wires from the coax driver, remove the 2 wires from the woofer, swap the physical location of the 2 drivers, then connect the wires back to where they went?

Yes you should move a woofer or preferably the coax and see what happens. If it sounds muffled when moved to the problem speaker it is the crossover.

The crossover change isn't complicated as no soldering is involved. The crossover has 3 or 4 wood screws that hold it to the cabinet. The wires to the crossover all use the same slip on connectors as the speaker ends. They are all color coded so not difficult if you label them and take your time. You have the other T8 crossover/speaker wiring as your backup and guide. Sending the speaker to Jeff would the the easiest way but would take the longest time ... removing and sending the crossover to Jeff for repair would probably the quickest method and just think of the experience and confidence you will gain in the process. smile.gif

Moving the Coax to the center position is just as you described above.
post #7745 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Yes you should move a woofer or preferably the coax and see what happens. If it sounds muffled when moved to the problem speaker it is the crossover.

The crossover change isn't complicated as no soldering is involved. The crossover has 3 or 4 wood screws that hold it to the cabinet. The wires to the crossover all use the same slip on connectors as the speaker ends. They are all color coded so not difficult if you label them and take your time. You have the other T8 crossover/speaker wiring as your backup and guide. Sending the speaker to Jeff would the the easiest way but would take the longest time ... removing and sending the crossover to Jeff for repair would probably the quickest method and just think of the experience and confidence you will gain in the process. smile.gif

Moving the Coax to the center position is just as you described above.

Ah okay yeah that totally makes sense. For some reason I was thinking I would have to totally reassemble the crossover lol, not just place the slide on wire covers onto the crossover. Very good point.

I think I am going to try and diagnose it more tonight to say if it is the woofer or crossover, and then go from there. Like you said, getting a new crossover would be much easier than shipping a whole speaker to him and waiting for him to fix it because I know he is a busy busy guy.

As far as taking things apart and stuff I've done a lot of it before. I've built my own joystick to work on PS3 and Xbox360 and used insides of the controllers to wire up to the joystick, then a switch to tell which system it is set to. I've modded many a Xbox and PSX back in my day too, as well as some RRoD fixes for the Xbox 360.

So my whole point in saying that is that I'm no stranger to tinkering with stuff. It's just that I have no experience tinkering with stuff as expensive as a Triple 8 smile.gif
post #7746 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Ah okay yeah that totally makes sense. For some reason I was thinking I would have to totally reassemble the crossover lol, not just place the slide on wire covers onto the crossover. Very good point.

I think I am going to try and diagnose it more tonight to say if it is the woofer or crossover, and then go from there. Like you said, getting a new crossover would be much easier than shipping a whole speaker to him and waiting for him to fix it because I know he is a busy busy guy.

As far as taking things apart and stuff I've done a lot of it before. I've built my own joystick to work on PS3 and Xbox360 and used insides of the controllers to wire up to the joystick, then a switch to tell which system it is set to. I've modded many a Xbox and PSX back in my day too, as well as some RRoD fixes for the Xbox 360.

So my whole point in saying that is that I'm no stranger to tinkering with stuff. It's just that I have no experience tinkering with stuff as expensive as a Triple 8 smile.gif

You have the requisite skills so I'd say no worries ... wink.gif I did the CD and crossover swap out (upgrade) on my Triple 12's and it was kinda cool to get inside the speakers. I like knowing how things work and seeing this insides can be illuminating. They are built like tanks as their Pro-Audio lineage would suggest.

Good luck and I will be interested in how this turns out.
post #7747 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Ah okay yeah that totally makes sense. For some reason I was thinking I would have to totally reassemble the crossover lol, not just place the slide on wire covers onto the crossover. Very good point.

I think I am going to try and diagnose it more tonight to say if it is the woofer or crossover, and then go from there. Like you said, getting a new crossover would be much easier than shipping a whole speaker to him and waiting for him to fix it because I know he is a busy busy guy.

As far as taking things apart and stuff I've done a lot of it before. I've built my own joystick to work on PS3 and Xbox360 and used insides of the controllers to wire up to the joystick, then a switch to tell which system it is set to. I've modded many a Xbox and PSX back in my day too, as well as some RRoD fixes for the Xbox 360.

So my whole point in saying that is that I'm no stranger to tinkering with stuff. It's just that I have no experience tinkering with stuff as expensive as a Triple 8 smile.gif

very sorry that you are having all these problems, if the woofers are not working, i would check with a multimeter and do a ohm reading to make sure that the woofers are passing current, if it is, you can even take a 9v battery to tap on the terminals to make sure they are moving.

then its time to look into the crossover, i swear it has to be a loose joint somewhere, there were used for the longest duration as front wide speakers where there is no way they could have been passing any signal loud enough to blow something up.
if you get the crossover out, it is much easier to make a visual check on it, check for any thing that looks loose, loose solder joints, or broken wires to start. Once again, i am very sorry that you are having problems with the speaker.
post #7748 of 18337
That's okay ufokillerz I just hope I can get it resolved in the easiest way possible so I can get my system up and running.

I just did some more testing.

For time being, I'm going to call the working T8 A and the one with problems B.

I just swapped the middle woofer between A and B.

The woofer that wasn't working properly in B was working fine in A, and the woofer that was working fine in A wasn't working fine in B.

Basically the same results as prior to swapping them.

So does this pretty much mean something is up with the crossover?

I'm going to switch the coax and woofer meanwhile in A since it is already apart.

EDIT:

So I just had another new finding...

If you take a look at this pic right here, which is from B...



In the top right corner you see the 4 red/black wires with the yellow cover? Well you see the pin they are connected to?

On A that group of wires is connected to the pin to the right of where it is connected in that pic above. And those are the 4 wires going to the 2 woofers.

So could it be that the wires are connected to the wrong "terminal" or whatever you call those things you slide them over?

I mean I could just test this out easily myself, however I don't want to connect things to wrong places that could potentially cause things to ruin somehow.
Edited by purbeast - 3/27/13 at 7:09pm
post #7749 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

That's okay ufokillerz I just hope I can get it resolved in the easiest way possible so I can get my system up and running.

I just did some more testing.

For time being, I'm going to call the working T8 A and the one with problems B.

I just swapped the middle woofer between A and B.

The woofer that wasn't working properly in B was working fine in A, and the woofer that was working fine in A wasn't working fine in B.

Basically the same results as prior to swapping them.

So does this pretty much mean something is up with the crossover?

I'm going to switch the coax and woofer meanwhile in A since it is already apart.

EDIT:

So I just had another new finding...

If you take a look at this pic right here, which is from B...



In the top right corner you see the 4 red/black wires with the yellow cover? Well you see the pin they are connected to?

On A that group of wires is connected to the pin to the right of where it is connected in that pic above. And those are the 4 wires going to the 2 woofers.

So could it be that the wires are connected to the wrong "terminal" or whatever you call those things you slide them over?

I mean I could just test this out easily myself, however I don't want to connect things to wrong places that could potentially cause things to ruin somehow.

I think those 2 pins are interchangeable, so it shouldn't matter.
post #7750 of 18337
Ah damn okay was hoping that was the issue. I did move the coax to the center on the working one though, so at least i got that done and saw how simple it is.
post #7751 of 18337
So I just did some more testing.

I took the coax driver out B and put it in A, and it worked fine in there as well. I just wanted to see if there was some possible short or something in it.

So now from my testing, both the woofer and the coax from B seems to be working fine in A. I have not tested out the other woofer that was not working in B as well, only one of them.

I just took the crossover out of speaker B to see if there was anything obviously wrong with it and did not notice anything. Here is a pic of it, if this helps at all.

http://i.imgur.com/YhEYMOE.jpg

Jeff has contacted me so I think we're just going to replace the crossover to get this thing going.

I definitely feel I've learned quite a bit about just how simple speakers are and how easy it is to connect them and hook them up on the insides lol. Well obviously the crossover is not simple at all, but once you have a crossover, it seems pretty simple to connect everything.

I am tempted to hook up the crossover from B to the drivers in A just to be 100% sure it is the crossover, but I'm using A as my template to put the wires back together. Maybe tomorrow I'll write the wiring diagram down and try it out.
Edited by purbeast - 3/27/13 at 9:21pm
post #7752 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So I just did some more testing.

I took the coax driver out B and put it in A, and it worked fine in there as well. I just wanted to see if there was some possible short or something in it.

So now from my testing, both the woofer and the coax from B seems to be working fine in A. I have not tested out the other woofer that was not working in B as well, only one of them.

I just took the crossover out of speaker B to see if there was anything obviously wrong with it and did not notice anything. Here is a pic of it, if this helps at all.

http://i.imgur.com/YhEYMOE.jpg

Jeff has contacted me so I think we're just going to replace the crossover to get this thing going.

I definitely feel I've learned quite a bit about just how simple speakers are and how easy it is to connect them and hook them up on the insides lol. Well obviously the crossover is not simple at all, but once you have a crossover, it seems pretty simple to connect everything.

I am tempted to hook up the crossover from B to the drivers in A just to be 100% sure it is the crossover, but I'm using A as my template to put the wires back together. Maybe tomorrow I'll write the wiring diagram down and try it out.

Good work purbeast and I hope the new xover resolves the issue (I'm sure it will). The other side of the crossover shows the board and it's possible the problem is with one of the solder connections to the circuit board.

On the positive side, you have had a good look at a loudspeakers innerds. My first speaker repair was a damaged xover on one of my Revel Ultimate Studio 2's. I was really nervous poking around in a $7,500 speaker ... but it all worked out. smile.gif
post #7753 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Good work purbeast and I hope the new xover resolves the issue (I'm sure it will). The other side of the crossover shows the board and it's possible the problem is with one of the solder connections to the circuit board.

On the positive side, you have had a good look at a loudspeakers innerds. My first speaker repair was a damaged xover on one of my Revel Ultimate Studio 2's. I was really nervous poking around in a $7,500 speaker ... but it all worked out. smile.gif

It looks fine to me when just eye'ing it, but one thing I did notice was that one of the speaker terminal connector things is somewhat loose, in that it can spin but it is still connected to the circuit board. But it still looks like there is metal touching metal.
post #7754 of 18337
So some more odd news...

Tonight I decided to try the crossover from the speaker B with the stuff in speaker A ... and it worked fine.

So I connected it back up to speaker B before putting it back in the speaker box, and it worked fine! So I think there may have just been some kinda loose connection on the actual crossover or something, so both of the speakers seem to be working fine now.

But here comes a problem that I've been trying to deal with for the past hour and a half. When screwing in the last woofer, one of the metal pieces inside came off. I wasn't putting any pressure or anything but all of a sudden screwing became much easier, and it came off. But the problem is, I cannot get the metal piece off the back of the screw, and the woofer is now on and I can't get it off. I mean it's okay that the woofer is on as long as it all works, but I would like to get that screw out because it is not in tight. I don't want it to rattle or anything, but I have no clue how to get the thing off the back of it. I've tried holding it and twisting the screw, with a needle nose wrench too, and it isn't doing anything. The wrench slips off before it does anything. I've tried prying the metal thing off as well but it isn't budging. The metal piece is all deformed now from my wrench messing with it.

Anyone have any suggestions how to get it off?

I think if I get it off and just leave that screw hole without a screw it will be fine because there are 7 other screws holding it in. But anyone have any idea how to get that screw off of there? I was literally trying for the past 90 minutes and ended up giving up because I'm tired. I didn't even get to calibrate my speakers tonight because of this!! I was all looking forward to hearing it and then this crap happened.

On another note, the coax drivers are back in the middle now which supposedly is better for surrounds.

Would there be any pro/con to putting the T8 on it's side as a surround speaker? I was just wondering if there is really any difference between horizontal and vertical placement if the coax is in the center.
post #7755 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So some more odd news...

Tonight I decided to try the crossover from the speaker B with the stuff in speaker A ... and it worked fine.

So I connected it back up to speaker B before putting it back in the speaker box, and it worked fine! So I think there may have just been some kinda loose connection on the actual crossover or something, so both of the speakers seem to be working fine now.

But here comes a problem that I've been trying to deal with for the past hour and a half. When screwing in the last woofer, one of the metal pieces inside came off. I wasn't putting any pressure or anything but all of a sudden screwing became much easier, and it came off. But the problem is, I cannot get the metal piece off the back of the screw, and the woofer is now on and I can't get it off. I mean it's okay that the woofer is on as long as it all works, but I would like to get that screw out because it is not in tight. I don't want it to rattle or anything, but I have no clue how to get the thing off the back of it. I've tried holding it and twisting the screw, with a needle nose wrench too, and it isn't doing anything. The wrench slips off before it does anything. I've tried prying the metal thing off as well but it isn't budging. The metal piece is all deformed now from my wrench messing with it.

Anyone have any suggestions how to get it off?

I think if I get it off and just leave that screw hole without a screw it will be fine because there are 7 other screws holding it in. But anyone have any idea how to get that screw off of there? I was literally trying for the past 90 minutes and ended up giving up because I'm tired. I didn't even get to calibrate my speakers tonight because of this!! I was all looking forward to hearing it and then this crap happened.

On another note, the coax drivers are back in the middle now which supposedly is better for surrounds.

Would there be any pro/con to putting the T8 on it's side as a surround speaker? I was just wondering if there is really any difference between horizontal and vertical placement if the coax is in the center.

That is the best news i've heard all week!
the nut being loose is one of the problems with t-nuts, your best bet would be to take the other woofer /coax out and fit your arm in there, and grab the loose nut from inside the speaker, loose t-nuts are the biggest pain in the world!
also being the t8 is a vented design, i think you would be fine missing 1 screw, but if you ever plan to replace it in the future, its just a tnut and a allen bolt.
post #7756 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So some more odd news...

Tonight I decided to try the crossover from the speaker B with the stuff in speaker A ... and it worked fine.

So I connected it back up to speaker B before putting it back in the speaker box, and it worked fine! So I think there may have just been some kinda loose connection on the actual crossover or something, so both of the speakers seem to be working fine now.

But here comes a problem that I've been trying to deal with for the past hour and a half. When screwing in the last woofer, one of the metal pieces inside came off. I wasn't putting any pressure or anything but all of a sudden screwing became much easier, and it came off. But the problem is, I cannot get the metal piece off the back of the screw, and the woofer is now on and I can't get it off. I mean it's okay that the woofer is on as long as it all works, but I would like to get that screw out because it is not in tight. I don't want it to rattle or anything, but I have no clue how to get the thing off the back of it. I've tried holding it and twisting the screw, with a needle nose wrench too, and it isn't doing anything. The wrench slips off before it does anything. I've tried prying the metal thing off as well but it isn't budging. The metal piece is all deformed now from my wrench messing with it.

Anyone have any suggestions how to get it off?

I think if I get it off and just leave that screw hole without a screw it will be fine because there are 7 other screws holding it in. But anyone have any idea how to get that screw off of there? I was literally trying for the past 90 minutes and ended up giving up because I'm tired. I didn't even get to calibrate my speakers tonight because of this!! I was all looking forward to hearing it and then this crap happened.

On another note, the coax drivers are back in the middle now which supposedly is better for surrounds.

Would there be any pro/con to putting the T8 on it's side as a surround speaker? I was just wondering if there is really any difference between horizontal and vertical placement if the coax is in the center.
This happened to me as well once. I ended up taking the coax out so I could get to it from the back and hold the T-nut with pliers while turning the hex screw. I eventually got it off. If it is not too deformed, you could try holding it from the back and tightening it.

Because of the coaxial design of the tweeter and midrange, the T8 will work fine on its side. Another advantage is that you could make a shelf that is supported by 2 studs, which may be why you are asking.

Also, it is great that it is now working.
post #7757 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by ufokillerz View Post

That is the best news i've heard all week!
the nut being loose is one of the problems with t-nuts, your best bet would be to take the other woofer /coax out and fit your arm in there, and grab the loose nut from inside the speaker, loose t-nuts are the biggest pain in the world!
also being the t8 is a vented design, i think you would be fine missing 1 screw, but if you ever plan to replace it in the future, its just a tnut and a allen bolt.

Yeah man I don't know what was loose but it is all working now so I'm sure you probably had no issues at all when you were using them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

This happened to me as well once. I ended up taking the coax out so I could get to it from the back and hold the T-nut with pliers while turning the hex screw. I eventually got it off. If it is not too deformed, you could try holding it from the back and tightening it.

Because of the coaxial design of the tweeter and midrange, the T8 will work fine on its side. Another advantage is that you could make a shelf that is supported by 2 studs, which may be why you are asking.

Also, it is great that it is now working.

I've tried sticking my hand in there already and tried holding the t-nut with my fingers and it just won't budget. It is almost like it is stuck because I cannot turn the screw of the t-nut when holding either side and trying to turn the other, it just feels stuck. And I've tried with needle nose pliers to hold the inside of the t-nut and I can't hold it with those. It was also a pain because the damn magnet kept pulling the plyers.

I couldn't find my normal pliers and think I may have lost them when I moved. I may go to home depot today and see if I can get a small set of players to try and hold the t-nut with a better grip though.

Are there any tools that would allow me to just cut the screw so I can just get it out and replace it? I know they have tools that do that, I'm just not sure what they are called or if I will be able to get something in the tight spot behind the driver, or in the small area in the front. I can "pull" the screw up just a tiny bit before the t-nut hits the inside of the speaker case. The screw is like just barely screwed into the t-nut.

And yes you are correct about why I was wondering about it on it's side. I haven't built my shelves yet and was thinking if I put it side ways I can get it on 2 studs which probably would be a safer option.
post #7758 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Yeah man I don't know what was loose but it is all working now so I'm sure you probably had no issues at all when you were using them.
I've tried sticking my hand in there already and tried holding the t-nut with my fingers and it just won't budget. It is almost like it is stuck because I cannot turn the screw of the t-nut when holding either side and trying to turn the other, it just feels stuck. And I've tried with needle nose pliers to hold the inside of the t-nut and I can't hold it with those. It was also a pain because the damn magnet kept pulling the plyers.

I couldn't find my normal pliers and think I may have lost them when I moved. I may go to home depot today and see if I can get a small set of players to try and hold the t-nut with a better grip though.

Are there any tools that would allow me to just cut the screw so I can just get it out and replace it? I know they have tools that do that, I'm just not sure what they are called or if I will be able to get something in the tight spot behind the driver, or in the small area in the front. I can "pull" the screw up just a tiny bit before the t-nut hits the inside of the speaker case. The screw is like just barely screwed into the t-nut.

And yes you are correct about why I was wondering about it on it's side. I haven't built my shelves yet and was thinking if I put it side ways I can get it on 2 studs which probably would be a safer option.
You can cut the screw with a hack saw if you can do it without risking damaging the woofer.
post #7759 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedirun View Post

You can cut the screw with a hack saw if you can do it without risking damaging the woofer.

The problem is, the screw doesn't come up enough to expose the whole head of the screw before the t-nut on the end of it hits the inside of the speaker case.
post #7760 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So some more odd news...

Tonight I decided to try the crossover from the speaker B with the stuff in speaker A ... and it worked fine.

So I connected it back up to speaker B before putting it back in the speaker box, and it worked fine! So I think there may have just been some kinda loose connection on the actual crossover or something, so both of the speakers seem to be working fine now.

But here comes a problem that I've been trying to deal with for the past hour and a half. When screwing in the last woofer, one of the metal pieces inside came off. I wasn't putting any pressure or anything but all of a sudden screwing became much easier, and it came off. But the problem is, I cannot get the metal piece off the back of the screw, and the woofer is now on and I can't get it off. I mean it's okay that the woofer is on as long as it all works, but I would like to get that screw out because it is not in tight. I don't want it to rattle or anything, but I have no clue how to get the thing off the back of it. I've tried holding it and twisting the screw, with a needle nose wrench too, and it isn't doing anything. The wrench slips off before it does anything. I've tried prying the metal thing off as well but it isn't budging. The metal piece is all deformed now from my wrench messing with it.

Anyone have any suggestions how to get it off?

I think if I get it off and just leave that screw hole without a screw it will be fine because there are 7 other screws holding it in. But anyone have any idea how to get that screw off of there? I was literally trying for the past 90 minutes and ended up giving up because I'm tired. I didn't even get to calibrate my speakers tonight because of this!! I was all looking forward to hearing it and then this crap happened.

On another note, the coax drivers are back in the middle now which supposedly is better for surrounds.

Would there be any pro/con to putting the T8 on it's side as a surround speaker? I was just wondering if there is really any difference between horizontal and vertical placement if the coax is in the center.

That mangled piece is the t-nut and you will need to replace it. I had the same problem a couple of times and they are hard to reseat correctly as they need to be pressed into the wood in the exact location on the screw hole. You may have to cut the screw to remove it and will need a replacement, Jeff will send you some that will match if you call him. I'd be leery of that xover fix as it may surface again ...

Might be worth just sending the speaker to Jeff and getting it all taken care of correctly.
Edited by RMK! - 3/29/13 at 7:27am
post #7761 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

That mangled piece is the t-nut and you will need to replace it. I had the same problem a couple of times and they are hard to reseat correctly as they need to be pressed into the wood in the exact location on the screw hole. You may have to cut the screw to remove it and will need a replacement, Jeff will send you some that will match if you call him. I'd be leery of that xover fix as it may surface again ...

Might be worth just sending the speaker to Jeff and getting it all taken care of correctly.

Well I messed with the crossover a bit and it looked fine, and I made sure to put all the connectors on tight. I tested it out disconnecting/reconnecting all of the wires probably 4 times total and every time it worked fine. So I really do think it was just a loose connection at this point.

However if down the road something happens, I will definitely just send it back to Jeff to fix. These speakers aren't going to be moving once they are in their new home once I get my shelves built for them so I'm not too worried about things coming loose really.
post #7762 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Well I messed with the crossover a bit and it looked fine, and I made sure to put all the connectors on tight. I tested it out disconnecting/reconnecting all of the wires probably 4 times total and every time it worked fine. So I really do think it was just a loose connection at this point.

However if down the road something happens, I will definitely just send it back to Jeff to fix. These speakers aren't going to be moving once they are in their new home once I get my shelves built for them so I'm not too worried about things coming loose really.

Well at least now you know how to remove and replace it. If the T-nut is just barely on the bolt then you should be able to pull it out enough to get some small bolt cutters on the shaft of the bolt and snip the head off (that sentence makes me kind of queasy tongue.gif). The more likely scenario is that over tightening the bolts made the T-nut spin in place rendering it useless and tight (like yours apparently is). At this point you don't want to bend the speaker flange messing with it so if you can't shear the head off, then you might as well leave it for another day. Maybe dab a little black silicon on the bolt head to keep it from rattling.

Oh and horizontal should be fine and may even be preferable for surround duty.smile.gif
post #7763 of 18337
I couldn't get a good grip in the fastener and it kept turning on the backside so, I cut the mdf with a hammer and chisel. Chiseled the wood out and vacuumed out the speaker box. Missing one nut and fastener is not going to impact the audio. It is an older T8 and used for surrounds.
post #7764 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsoko2 View Post

I couldn't get a good grip in the fastener and it kept turning on the backside so, I cut the mdf with a hammer and chisel. Chiseled the wood out and vacuumed out the speaker box. Missing one nut and fastener is not going to impact the audio. It is an older T8 and used for surrounds.

Civil War Surgeon ...tongue.gif
post #7765 of 18337
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm most likely going to try out using a pair of vise grip pliers to grab the t-nut and see if I can grip it and turn the screw. Going to grab a vise grip today and try tonight when I get home. I hope it works out!
post #7766 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm most likely going to try out using a pair of vise grip pliers to grab the t-nut and see if I can grip it and turn the screw. Going to grab a vise grip today and try tonight when I get home. I hope it works out!

Good idea, if you pull out while turning (counterclockwise wink.gif ) the T-nut will try and bite into the wood and you may get it loosened up enough to take it out that way. Good luck!
post #7767 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Civil War Surgeon ...tongue.gif

. . . and the patient lived!
post #7768 of 18337
Hi!

If someone is interested in this decoration for homecinema please contact me.

Regards
post #7769 of 18337
That is pretty cool. Are you making them?
post #7770 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Santando81 View Post

Hi!

If someone is interested in this decoration for homecinema please contact me.

Regards

I would be!
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